{COM:the_place_name_rendered_asacein"_is_typed_with_c_cedilla_in_the
_edition}

<P_I,182>

<heading>

CHAP. II . IS A SURVEY OF THE ISLAND OF CANOREIN NEAR BOMBAIM .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,182.4)

</heading>

Upon these scores it was not long before I was employed to wait on the
Father Superior of the <font> North </font> , a Learned Man , and a
<font> Spaniard </font> by Nation , of the Order of the Jesuits .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,182.6)

The President commanded his own <font> Baloon </font> <paren> a Barge
of <P_I,183> State , of Two and twenty Oars </paren> to attend me and
one of the Council , to compliment the Father on the Island of <font>
Canorein </font> , parted from <font> Bombaim </font> by a Stream half
a Mile broad : (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.7)

Near our Landing-place stood a College , not inferior to the Building ,
nor much unlike those of our Universities , belonging to the Jesuits
here , more commonly callen <font> Paulistines </font> <paren> whose
Visitor was now my Patient </paren> , who live here very sumptuously ,
the greatest part of the Island being theirs . (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.8)

Our Entertainment was truly Noble , and becoming the Gravity of the
Society . (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.9)

After I had done my Duty , the Fathers accompanied us to the Barge ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,183.10)

afore the College-Gate stood a large Cross , thwack'd full of young
Blacks singing Vespers : (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.11)

The Town is large , the Houses tiled ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.12)

it is called <font> Bandora </font> . (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.13)

At our department they gave us Seven Guns , which they have planted on
the Front of their College for their own Defence ,
(FRYER-E3-H,I,183.14)

besides they are fitted with good store of Small Arms : Following
therein the Advice given by a Statesman to the King of <font> Spain
</font> , about the <font> Netherlands </font> ; That <font> if the
Society of the </font> Loyolists <font> were multiplied , their
Convents might serve for Castles </font> . (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.15)

<P_I,184>

In the middle of the River we had a pleasant Prospect on both sides ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,184.17)

on <font> Bandora </font> side , the College , the Town , the Church of
St. <font> Andrew </font> a Mile beyond , (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.18)

and upon the Hill that pointed to the Sea , the <font> Aquada </font> ,
Blockhouse , and a Church ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.19)

on the other side , the Church of <font> Maijm </font> , with other
handsome Buildings . (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.20)

Curiosity led me a second time to visit the Island <font> Canorein
</font> , having obtained leave for a longer Stay :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,184.21)

nor went I alone , some of the best Quality on the Island being led by
the same desire , joining themselves with me : (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.22)

We carried a Train of Servants , Horses , and <font> Palenkeens </font>
, which were ferried over before us ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.23)

and we coming soon after , were met by the Fraternity , and conducted
to the Fathers , who detained us till Afternoon by a stately Banquet ,
shewing us the Civility of the Church and College , diverting us both-5
with Instrumental and Vocal Musick , and very good Wine . After which
we were dismiss'd and four Mile off <font> Bandora </font> were stopp'd
by the Kindness of the <font> Padre </font> -Superior , whose Mandate
whereever we came caused them to send his <font> Recarders </font>
<paren> a Term of Congratulation , as we say , <font> Our Service
</font> </paren> with the Presents of the best Fruits and Wines , and
whatever we wanted . (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.24)

<P_I,185>

Here , not adjoining to any Town , in a sweet Air , stood a Magnificent
Rural Church ; in the way to which , and indeed all up and down this
Island , are pleasant <font> Aldeas </font> , or Country Seats of the
Gentry ; where they live like Petty-Monarchs , all that is born on the
Ground being theirs , holding them in a perfect state Villainage , they
being Lords Paramount . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.26)

From hence , when we had baited , the same Night we travelled easily to
<font> Magatana </font> , using our Fowling-Pieces all the way , being
here presented with Rich Game , as Peacocks , Doves , and Pigeons ,
<font> Chitrels </font> , or Spotted Deer . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.27)

When we came to the Town , two several Churches strove to receive us ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,185.28)

but having some Acquaintance with the Father of the one , and not with
the other , we excused ourselves to the latter , (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.29)

and took up with our Friend . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.30)

As soon as we came in , the Servitors fetch'd us warm Water to wash our
Feet , which was very refreshing ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.31)

it put me in mind of <font> Lot's </font> Courtesy to the Angels .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,185.32)

After this , as a piece of extraordinary Civility , they showed us the
Necessary House ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.33)

and it is so in a Countrey where Fluxes are so common ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,185.34)

and for that reason it is kept as neat as their Lodging Rooms , having
Water to Wash after you have used a clean Towel hung there for that
Purpose . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.35)

This Night we fared very well . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.36)

Next Morn before Break of Day we directed our Steps to the anciently
fam'd , but now ruin'd City of <font> Canorein </font> ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,185.37)

the way to it <P_I,186> is so delightsome , I thought I had been in
<font> England </font> ; fine Arable , Pasture , and Coppices ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,186.38)

thus we passed Five Mile to the Foot of the Hill on which the City
stands , (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.39)

and had passed half a Mile through a thick Wood , peopled by Apes ,
Tygers , wild Buffolo's , and Jackalls ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.40)

here were some Flocks of Parockets : (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.41)

When we alighted , the Sun began to mount the <font> Horizon </font>
over the Hills , (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.42)

and under our Feet , as if he had newly bathed his fiery Coursers ,
there appeared the Mouth of a <font> Tank </font> , or Aqueduct , out
of a Rock , whose steaming Breath was very hot , but water cold :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,186.43)

From hence it is thought the whole City to be supplied with Water ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,186.44)

for as we ascend , we find such Places , where convenient , filled with
Limpid Water , not over-matched in <font> India </font> :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,186.45)

If it be so , <paren> as I know not how to contradict it </paren> that
it should have its Current upwards through the hard Rocks artificially
cut , the World $can $not {TEXT:cannot} parallel so wonderful a
Water-course ! (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.46)

From hence the Passage is uneasy and inaccessible for more than two
abreast , till we come to the City , all cut out of a Rock ; where it
is presented <font> Vulcan's </font> Forge , supported by two mighty
Colosses , bellied in the middle with two Globes .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,186.47)

Next a Temple with a beautiful Frontispiece not unlike the <font>
Portuco </font> of St. <font> Paul's </font> <font> West Gate </font> :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,186.48)

Within the Porch on each side stand two Monstrous Giants , where two
Lesser and one Great Gate give a noble Entrance ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.49)

it can receive no Light but at the Doors and Windows of the Porch ,
whereby it looks more solemnly ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.50)

the Roof is Arched , seeming to be born up by huge Pillars of the same
Rock , some Round , some Square , 34 in number . (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.51)

The <font> Cornish </font> Work of Elephants , Horses , Lions ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,186.52)

at the upper end it rounds like a Bow ; near where stands a great
Offertory somewhat Oval , the Body of it <P_I,187> without Pillars ,
they only making a narrow Piatzo about , leaving the Nave open :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,187.53)

It may be an Feet in Length , in Height feet or more .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,187.54)

Beyond this , by the same Mole-like Industry , was worked out a Court
of Judicature <paren> as those going to shew it will needs give Names
</paren> or Place of Audience , Feet square , all bestuck with Imagery
, well Engraven according to old Sculpture . (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.55)

On the Side , over against the Door , sate one Superintendent , to whom
the <font> Brachmin </font> went with us , paid great Reverence , not
speaking of him without a token of worship ; whom we called <font>
Jougy </font> , or the Holy Man ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.56)

under this the way being made into handsome Marble Steps , are the
King's Stables , not different from the Fashion of our Noblemens
Stables , (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.57)

only at the head of every Stall seems to be a <font> Dormitory </font>
, or Place for Devotion , with Images , which gave occasion to doubt if
ever for that End ; or rather made for an Heathen Seminary of Devotes ,
(FRYER-E3-H,I,187.58)

and these their Cells or Chappels , and the open Place their Common
Hall or School : (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.59)

More aloft stood the King's Palace , large , stately and magnificent ,
surrounded with lesser of the Nobility . (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.60)

To see all , would require a Month's time ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.61)

but that we might see as much as could be in our allotted time , we got
upon the highest part of the Mountain , where we feasted our Eyes with
unnumerable Entrances of these Cony-burrows , but could not see one
quarter part . (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.62)

Whose Labour this should be , or for what purpose , is out of memory ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,187.63)

but this Place by the <font> Gentiles </font> is much adored :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,187.64)

Some contend for <font> Alexander </font> , (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.65)

and as a proof , think they have said enough , when it is received by
Tradition , that <P_I,188> a great Gap out of a Solid Rock was cut by
him to make this an Island : (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.66)

But this is contradictory to the Story delivered of <font> Alexander
</font> , That he sailed up <font> Indus </font> , and encountred
<font> King Porus </font> , of whom some little Remains may be
collected , they speaking of that King by the Name of <font> Por
</font> in <font> Cambaia </font> , where <font> Alexander </font>
landed with his Army ; and followed the Course of <font> Indus </font>
, directly contrary to this Place , that lying <font> North-East
</font> , this <font> South </font> from thence ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.67)

nor do we read his stay in <font> India </font> was so long , to
atchieve such Acts as these , this Place being not the only Instance of
this nature ; but more probable to be an Heathen <font> Fane </font> ,
or Idolatrous Pagod , from the Superstitious Opinion they still hold of
its Sacredness : Wherefore the <font> Portugals </font> , who are now
Masters of it , strive to erace the remainders of this <font> Herculean
</font> Work , that it may sink into the oblivion of its Founders .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,188.68)

Returning to <font> Magatana </font> , we spent some days in riding
about the Country , which we found every-where provided with Churches .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,188.69)

The Chief City of this Island is <font> Tanaw </font> : In which are
Seven Churches and Colleges , the chiefest one of the <font>
Paulistines </font> ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.70)

the Houses Tiled , but low : (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.71)

Here are made good Stuffs of Silk and Cotton . (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.72)

There is another great Town called <font> Mein </font> , where is a
<P_I,189> Castle and some Soldiers , towards the Sea ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,189.73)

over against <font> Bacein </font> there is another Fort and <font>
Aquada </font> . (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.74)

The <font> Portugals </font> suffer none but Christians here :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,189.75)

It has no Rivers , but only Inlets of the Sea ; but good Springs from
the Rocks ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.76)

the Ground excellently fertile , either of it self , or by the care of
the Inhabitants ; that it yields as good Cabbages , Coleworts , and
better Rhadishes than ever I yet saw : (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.77)

Besides Garden-Fruit , here are incomparable Water-Melons , and Onions
as sweet , and as well tasted as an Apple ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.78)

and for the natural growth of the Soil , it is known not only to supply
the adjoining Islands , but <font> Goa </font> also .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,189.79)

It is more than Miles in Length , and in Circumference .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,189.80)

<heading>

CHAP. III . (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.82)

A VISIT TO BACEIN , A PORTUGAL CITY IN INDIA ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.83)

OUR RETURN BY ELEPHANTO , AND THE PUTACHOS , WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE
ISLAND BOMBAIM . (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.84)

</heading>

The several <font> Capitaneos </font> of the <font> Portugals </font>
are <font> Triennial </font> , which are the Alternate Governments
entailed on the Families of the Conquerors , and therefore made
Circular ; every one in his course having his turn to rule in some
Place or other for Three Years , (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.86)

and upon these they can borrow or take up Mony as certain as upon their
Hereditary <P_I,190> Estates the next Incumbent being Security for the
payment : (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.87)

Pursuant to this , a new Governour coming to <font> Choul </font> , his
Honour the President sent to congratulate him ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.88)

and the Admiral of the <font> North </font> coming to <font> Bacein
</font> , another was sent on the same Message . (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.89)

Nor could the hot Months be over , before <font> John de Mendos </font>
, of a Noble Family , sent for me to <font> Bacein </font> for the cure
of his only Daughter , illustriously born , handsome , and on the point
of Marriage with the Admiral of the <font> North </font> , though not
full Twelve years old . (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.90)

Leaving <font> Bombaim </font> , at this time of the year , we could go
either within or without ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.91)

but the first being related to be pleasantest I chose that way ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,190.92)

sailing by <font> Trumbay </font> , where we receive Custom , we might
see a comely Church and <font> Aldea </font> : (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.93)

At Noon we reached <font> Tanaw </font> : (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.94)

Having gained our Passage over the Flats , we made no stay ,
(FRYER-E3-H,I,190.95)

but rowed streight to <font> Bacein </font> ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.96)

every half Mile we were presented with fresh Prospects of delicate
Country-Mansions ; two of which of special note draw the Eyes of the
Beholders ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.97)

one of <font> John de Melos </font> , three Mile off <font> Tanaw
</font> , it standing high , curiously built , has a Terras Descent
with Walks and Gardens half a Mile , till it lead to a spacious
Banquetting-house over the Water , with Stone-stairs for Landing :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,190.98)

Beyond it a Mile , on the side of an Hill , stands <font> Grebondel
</font> , a large neat built Town of <font> Martin Alphonso's </font> ;
<P_I,191> and at top of all , His House , Fort and Church , of as
stately Architecture as <font> India </font> can afford ; he being the
Richest Don on this side <font> Goa </font> . (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.99)

Here we are Land-locked by the Gut , which is fabled to be made by
<font> Alexander </font> ; from which we have an open passage to <font>
Bacein </font> , it lying bare towards the Sea . (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.100)

<heading>

BACEIN . </heading> Is incircled with a round Stone-wall ,
(FRYER-E3-H,I,191.102)

and has a Gate for every Wind ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.103)

it is strong enough against the <font> Indians </font> , but not able
to endure an <font> European </font> Foe : (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.104)

There are upon the Out-walls , and in the Fort , Forty two great Guns ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,191.105)

the Fort in the middle of the City is circular ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.106)

towards the Market appears a State-house Piatzed , where the Governour
convocates the <font> Fidalgos </font> every Morning upon consultation
, in which they all stand , a Chair not being permitted the Governour ,
though Gouty : (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.107)

Towards Evening they meet there to Game . (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.108)

<P_I,192>

Within the Walls are six Churches , four Convents , two Colleges , one
of the <font> Jesuits </font> , another of the <font> Franciscans
</font> . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.110)

It bears the Name of an Academy ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.111)

the Students are instructed in the <font> Jesuits </font> College ,
(FRYER-E3-H,I,192.112)

but live in Town : Where is a Library , with Classes of Historians ,
Moralists , Expositors , and no more . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.113)

It is a College of Polite Structure , (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.114)

in the <font> Portuco </font> is a Copy of <font> Angelos </font> ,
representing the Resurrection ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.115)

above Stairs , as well as below , are fine square Cloisters , as all
their Collegiate Churches have on the sides whereof are their Cells ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,192.116)

they have a spacious Refectory , and a goodly Church ;
(FRYER-E3-H,I,192.117)

three parts of the City is devoted to their use .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,192.118)

The <font> Fidalgos </font> <paren> for few Artisans are tolerated
within the Walls </paren> have stately Dwellings , graced with covered
Balconies , and large Windows two Stories high , with Panes of Oister
shell , which is their usual Glazing among them in <font> India </font>
, or else Latised . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.119)

They shew their Greatness by their number of <font> Sumbreeroes </font>
and <font> Cofferies </font> , whereby it is dangerous to walk late for
fear of falling into the Hands of those Pilfering Abusive Rascals .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,192.120)

None but Christians lodge within the City , the <font> Banyans </font>
repairing to the Suburbs upon <font> Tattoo </font> .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,192.121)

The City is a Mile and half round ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.122)

it stands on an Island , separated by a small Channel from the Main ,
as far off the Island <font> Canorein </font> , as <font> Canorein
</font> from <font> Bombaim </font> , and parted after the like nature
. (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.123)

The Land about is plain , and fruitful of Sugar-Canes , Rice , and
other Grain ; a great part of which has lately been destroyed by the
<font> Arabs </font> of <font> Muschat </font> , who put them to a sore
fright in <font> Bacein </font> : (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.124)

and this is done often , setting fire to their Villages , and carrying
away their <font> Fidalgos </font> Prisoners , together with their
Wives and Families , butchering <P_I,193> the <font> Padres </font> ,
and robbing the Churches without resistance , conceived on a deadly
Feud , partly out of revenge of the <font> Portugal </font> Cruelties
at <font> Muschat </font> ; but chiefly out of detestation of each
other's Religion ; insomuch that Quarter is denied on either side :
(FRYER-E3-H,I,193.125)

But that on this Pretence . (FRYER-E3-H,I,193.126)

The <font> Portugals </font> striving to possess themselves of <font>
Muschat </font> , were put to such stress , that had not their <font>
Armado </font> come to their relief , they must have desisted their
Enterprize : Upon the arrival whereof the new Recruits gained so much
on the <font> Arab </font> Governour , that he yielded up the otherwise
invincible Fort of <font> Muschat </font> ; where the <font> Portugals
</font> acting all nefarious Outrages , contrary to their Promise , the
<font> Arabs </font> re-armed themselves with Courage and fresh Succors
, and at length beat them from hence to <font> Ormus </font> in the
Gulf of <font> Persia </font> ; from whence also they were routed by
the help of the <font> English </font> <paren> we then being at war
with them </paren> ; the first blow to their Greatness in these Parts .
(FRYER-E3-H,I,193.127)

To check these Incursions of the <font> Arabs </font> , the <font>
Portugals </font> every Year are at the charge of a lusty Squadron in
these Seas , which were those we met on the Coast returning from thence
; who were no sooner gone , than the <font> Arabs </font> sent their
Fleet to do this Mischief here ; which now $'t $is {TEXT:'tis} done ,
they are again in quest of them , (FRYER-E3-H,I,193.128)

but they fly as often as these pursue . (FRYER-E3-H,I,193.129)

<P_II,177>

<heading>

CHAP. II . (FRYER-E3-H,II,177.132)

OUR SETTING FORTH FROM GOMBROON , AND LEAVING LHOR .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,177.133)

</heading>

At last the Heavens drop Fatness , (FRYER-E3-H,II,177.135)

and the Showers refresh the Earth , (FRYER-E3-H,II,177.136)

and fill the Tanks with purer Water , washing away the old Filth and
Nastiness contracted by the former indispositions of the Seasons .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,177.137)

And now we having this Opportunity , set forward towards the Evening of
the 28=th= of <font> June </font> , the Ships in the Road Saluting us ,
and the Merchants , both <font> French </font> and <font> Dutch </font>
, Conducting us onward of our Way , with Pomp and Ceremony , till we
came to the Garden out of the City , where we entertained them with a
Sumptuous Treat , and took our Leaves ; they returning to <font>
Gombroon </font> , and we going on Three <font> Pharsangs </font> that
Night to <font> Band Ally </font> , <P_II,178> Inhabited only by Poor
People , in pitiful Cabbins covered with the Palm-Tree Boughs , by the
Sea-side , expecting Profit , as well by Strangers as by Fishery ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,178.138)

these Houses are placed on Wheels , to draw up and down at their
Pleasure . (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.139)

<font> Band Ally </font> is the <font> Chast Ally </font> , to whom
this <font> Caravan Seraw </font> is Dedicated , in the same manner as
we our Churches and places Sacred , to our Saints in Commemoration of
them . (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.140)

<font> Caravan Seraw </font> , signifies no more than an Inn , <font>
viz. Ser </font> , the Head , <font> Raw </font> , of the Way .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,178.141)

For this Journy we have no Wains for our Baggage , or Chariots for our
selves ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.142)

we Ride on Horseback , (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.143)

and our Sumpters are Loaded on Mules , Asses , or Camels , which march
toward Evening and Travel till Morning ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.144)

We go but slowly by reason of our Beasts of Burthen , though a greater
part of them were dispatched a Month before us by another Road , less
Mountainous , though farther about . (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.145)

Coming to our Inns , we have no Host , or Young Damosels to bid us
Welcome , nor other Furniture than Bare Walls ; no rooms Swept , nor
Cleanly Entertainment , Tables neatly Spred , or Maidens to Attend with
Voice or Lute to Exhilarate the Weary Passenger ; but instead of these
, Apartments covered with Dung and Filth ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.146)

Musick indeed there is of Humming Gnats pricking us to <P_II,179> keep
an unwilling Measure to their Comfort : So that here is neither
Provision for Man or Beast , only an open House , with no enlivening
Glass of Pontack , or Poinant Cheer to encourage the Badness of the
March ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.147)

but every Four or Five <font> Pharsangs , i. e. Parasangae </font> , a
<font> German </font> League , on the King's High way , a <font>
Caravan Ser Raw </font> , as dirty as <font> Augeus </font> his Stable
, those before always leaving the next comer work enough to cleanse
where they have been ; that after coming in Tired , they are more
intent to spread their Carpets for Repose , than remove the incrustated
Cake of Sluttery , the constant Nursery of Flies and Beetles , they
often bringing their Horses into the same Bed-Chamber .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,179.148)

These Houses Built by Charitable Persons , are always supplied with
Tanks and Cisterns , which now run over since yesterdays Rain , and are
commonly very Fine and Costly ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.149)

but other Commodities we must bring with us , (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.150)

otherwise we are likely not only to go to Bed on the bare Ground , but
depart more Hungry than we came thither <paren> very few Places
maintaining Sutlers for Horse-meat , or Diet for the Wayfaring Man
</paren> : (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.151)

Therefore when we undertake this Journy , we carry not only all our
Family , but Housholdstuff too ; for which every one has a separate
Allowance for his Servant and his Baggage , and a Butler in common ,
who Mounts the <font> Trojan </font> Horse , supplied with Bread , Wine
, Salt , Cold Meat , Knives and Napkins for the <font> Viaticum </font>
, in Two Canisters , or Chests hung on each side one , under whose
Belly is girt a <font> Metarrah </font> , or Goat Skin full of Wine ,
and another of Water ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.152)

a <font> Metarrah </font> full of the latter every one ties to his
Horses Saddle , in the fashion of a Leathern Bottel , and a Silver Toss
, or Cup , in a Case at <P_II,180> the Bow of the Saddle :
(FRYER-E3-H,II,180.153)

In the middle of the <font> Munsel </font> <paren> <font> i. e. </font>
a whole Day's Journy </paren> the Butler alights ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,180.154)

and by some advantageous Brook , or Tank , spreads a Table on the
Ground , while the whole <font> Caphala </font> refresh :
(FRYER-E3-H,II,180.155)

<paren> We generally make our <font> Munsel </font> from Four in the
Afternoon till before Four in the Morning </paren> when after a Glass
of Wine , and the Fragments of yesterdays Provisions , we betake our
selves to Rest with much eagerness , if it be possible among so many
strange Customs at first ; as Noise of Carriers Bells , Feeding ,
Neighing , Breying , and Noise of so many Creatures , Loading and
Unloading , with the Singing , Chatting , and Din of Servants ,
Horse-keepers and Muliteers ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.156)

but Custom makes all things familiar and easy , that we generally
Repose till Two the next Day ; when our Cook has provided not only our
Dinner <paren> which is as Sumptuous as if at Home , and brought in
with the same Order </paren> but furthermore , our necessary Provant
for the ensuing Day's Journy ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.157)

and after this manner are we fitted to measure out our future Hardships
. (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.158)

Hither the <font> Banyans </font> , or <font> English </font> Brokers ,
Accompanied us , they taking their Leave for the Port , we keeping on
our Course , Three <font> Englishmen </font> with our Retinue
answerable to the Quality of each ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.159)

we had with us Twenty Camels for Lumber , Fifteen Horses , Three Mules
, and Two Asses , besides Three <font> Shotters </font> for our Guides
, which are the only <P_II,181> Men here also , who wear Plumes of
Feathers in their Turbats , small Bells about their Wastes , Truncheons
in their Hands , Horse-Cloaths over their Shoulders richly Embroidered
on Scarlet , Packthread Shoes on their Feet , and close Jerkins with
Breeches below their Knees ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.160)

these are our Guides , (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.161)

and hold our Horses while we Mount , (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.162)

look after them and the Equipments , as Bridles and Furniture , <paren>
the most mean of which are Silver </paren> when we alight ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,181.163)

and are not only swift , but lasting Footmen . (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.164)

Beginning to set forward , neither Tract nor Road was followed , all
being covered with Sand ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.165)

but our Guides steered by their own Experience ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,181.166)

this was not so comfortable , to behold nothing but a Sea of Sand ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,181.167)

for now we began to turn our back upon the Gulf , and steer a more
<font> Northern </font> Course , from whence to reflect what Sustenance
this barren Earth could produce , that , should our Stores fail , we
might want ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.168)

yet even for this Jealousy we had not the least shadow of Reason ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,181.169)

for had we been less provided we might have met with Plenty , every one
striving to Vend us Necessaries , to the no small encrease of my
amazement how they came by them . (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.170)

After we had waded through Two <font> Pharsangs </font> of this
Desolate Way , we began to Clamber up those Hills , which seem hanging
over the Road of <font> Gombroon </font> , now beating the Hoof on more
solid Rocks : (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.171)

In this Passage we could here and there descry some Groves of Palms ,
whose Fruit were tinctured with a Cherry Red , the constant forerunner
of their full Maturity ; at which time they look for the same
Unhealthiness we do in our Autumn ; though I find <P_II,182> them not
so superstitiously addicted to Symbols , as the <font> Egyptians
</font> to their Hieroglyphicks , (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.172)

they express the Year by this Tree ; because this Tree , say they , of
all others alone <paren> which I before noted of the Coco-Nut Tree ,
and therefore I think it a kind of Palm </paren> at every appearance of
the New Moon procreates a fresh Branch , by which Twelve Productions
the whole Year is resembled and compleated ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.173)

the Trees are Tall and Slender , bearing their Boughs all atop , like a
shady Tuft , some standing bolt upright , and others spread abroad ,
with others flagging and ready to give way to the Birth of more ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,182.174)

when they are Young and in their Infancy , they no sooner sprout up but
the prickly Leafs guard its tender Head , which is of a pithy substance
, and when Wounded spoils the Trees Growth , so that it Dies ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,182.175)

but while it escapes that danger , it rises by degrees after the former
Order , the under Branches bowing Archwise to their upstart Youngsters
; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.176)

the Leafs are set in Rows like Ribs to a great Spine , arising from a
Circular Base , till it end in a sharp Point ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.177)

under these Boughs the mighty Branches hang full of Dates in Clusters ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,182.178)

and which is more than <font> say so </font> , <font> The more $they
$'re {TEXT:they'r} Burthened better do they Thrive , Like depress'd
Virtue better kept alive . </font> (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.179)

So patient under great Loads of this Fruit , that they seem to rejoyce
with a more chearful Verdure , and unconcerned reject the withered
Boughs , whilst a more lively Product makes them glad by a new
Succession ; by which means it keeps Green the whole Course of the Year
. (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.180)

Nor when the old ones fall , are these only fit for the Fire ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,182.181)

for they being orderly laid , and finely Gilded or Painted between the
Beams of the same Wood , supply the Ceilings and other adornments of
their best Houses ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.182)

<P_II,183>

nor are they less serviceable to Thatch their meaner Cottages :
(FRYER-E3-H,II,183.184)

The Trunk being deprived of those Combings , from the main Head is
beheld a flourishing Peruke of Palms , fit to be worn by the greatest
Heroes ; from whence downwards without any Sprouts , it appears all in
Coat of Mail Cap-a-pee {COM:sic} , or like a Pine-Apple from its scaly
Structure , caused by the falling of the precedent Branches , by which
compactness it emulates its Conelike Figure . (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.185)

Of these Trees there are Male and Female , (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.186)

and which is worthy our Notice , the Female Palms <paren> which only
Bear </paren> will not Bring forth before they are Impregnated at the
Roots with the Seed of the Male , first pounded into Meal and sprinkled
about them ; which how true I dispute not ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.187)

but certainly Tradition has confirmed the Practice ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,183.188)

and they are not to be persuaded to neglect the Custom .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,183.189)

In the midst of this Days <font> Munsel </font> , among the Mountains
we passed by the Mouth of an horrid Cave ; where they entertain
Travellers with Tragick Stories , and a Legend of Fables , as that it
is the Road to Hell ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.190)

for , say they , whoever Enters never Returns ; as if thence had arose
the Proverb , <font> No Redemption from the Shades </font> ; or that of
the Poet , --- Facilis descensus Averni ; Sed revocare gradus , hic
labor , hoc opus est . (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.191)

Easy the $Descent $'s {TEXT:Descent's} to Hell ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,183.192)

but back again Our steps to call , this is the Work , the Pain .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,183.193)

<P_II,184>

But it stuck not on my Fancy , who had been informed of Pleasanter
Stages on that Journy , and an higher way to more open Doors . ---
(FRYER-E3-H,II,184.195)

Patet Atri janua Ditis . (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.196)

Hell Gate wide open stands . (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.197)

But it may more probably be an Invention to fright Passengers into the
right Way , and that they should avoid , by so sad and terrible a
Remark , the wrong , which would wilder them in an unlucky Maze ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,184.198)

for here the Way was not only Intricate but Difficult ; whereby I was
encouraged to auspicate a more Coelestial Path might lead us to <font>
Getche </font> , in the <font> Turkish </font> Language signifying a
<font> Goat </font> Village ; which was on Wheels , as the other ,
being not Twenty Miles distant ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.199)

it is in a Sandy Valley full of Shrubs , on which the Camels Feed , but
the Asses , Mules , and Horses , on Barly and chopt Straw ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,184.200)

<paren> the <font> Persians </font> learn'd the <font> Indians </font>
how to Treat their Horses ; where having declared the manner , I
forbear here , it being exactly the same </paren>
(FRYER-E3-H,II,184.201)

for these Eight or Nine <font> Munsels </font> they care not to House
them , (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.202)

but only Cover them with <font> Yawpengees </font> , <P_II,185> or
Horse-Cloths , (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.203)

and expose them to the open Air ; which is not so Unhealthy for them ,
as for Human Bodies , who carefully prevent such Lodgings for fear of
Aches , and other Inconveniences incident thereupon ; wherefore in the
middle of the Vale we repaired to the <font> Caravan Ser Raw </font> ,
almost buried in the Sand , it being the only obstacle to their rowling
Billows . (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.204)

The next Morn we were waited on by the Country Women bringing us Cheese
, and Butter made before our Eyes , with no other Churn than a Goatskin
, in which they shook the Milk till Butter came ; Fish , Roots , and
Herbs , with all sorts of Pullen : (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.205)

In these Two <font> Munsels </font> we only meet with these Servitors ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,185.206)

in other Places Men appear alone , not allowing their Women that
Freedom ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.207)

but were they no more tempting than these Swains , $they $'d
{TEXT:they'd} have small cause for the Restriction ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,185.208)

for they are Strapping Sunburnt Lasses , with little more Cloaths on
than a dark coloured Smock , or Frock ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.209)

and for their Meen it is not enticing ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.210)

these bring us Water to Drink out of their Tanks , newly filled , which
was Thick , Troubled , and Slimy ; for which reason the Vapours , or
rather Fumes from the Sun's violence , were very Offensive , and the
more irksome , because we were constrained to tarry here another Night
, for that the River <font> Rute Conna Shure </font> ; or Salt-Water ,
was now overflown by the Waters falling from the Mountains beyond the
Banks to that excess , that it could not be Forded by Travellers ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,185.211)

and the Stream ran with that Rapidness , that it was unsafe to venture
over till the descending Cataracts <P_II,186> had left off pouring on
the overswell'd Brinks , and emptied themselves into the wider Gulf ,
not many Leagues distant hence . (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.212)

The Day after , as soon as we heard the Waters were abated , we set
forward , (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.213)

and found it true what had been reported <paren> Three <font> Caphala's
</font> not daring to pass the Lake , where they had lain some Days ,
till we had led the way </paren> . (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.214)

It was sultry Hot when we assayed to go , (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.215)

but Delays in this case were dangerous ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.216)

besides , we were uncertain whether it would hold up should we tarry ,
which made us confide on our Guides , who gave us assurance , that the
Marshes were passable ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.217)

we were more troubled with Waves of Sand than Water , both which , by
Rain , or Wind , keep on their course with some noise till silenced in
the <font> Persian </font> Gulf . (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.218)

Athwart this Fen , which was upward of Three Miles , was Built not long
since , as by the Modern Architecture may be guessed , a stately Stone
Bridge with Arches , on which high Banisters with Niches , and a brave
paved Cawsey Elegantly Built , which kept pace with us ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,186.219)

but by the Negligence of these People , as well as Injury of Floods and
Sands , it was broke down in several places , especially where the
Torrent made the deepest Channel , so that though firm and strong in
the greatest part of it , yet by its being ruined in the most needful ,
it is become impassable ; and though a Work of extraordinary Benefit
and Charge , yet already rendred of little Use .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,186.220)

<P_II,187>

The rest of this day's Journy was between the Mountains , where we were
encounter'd by strange Flashes of Lightning , the Foretellers of this
Night's Rain , which we hardly escaped before we came to <font>
Caurestan </font> , in all Twenty Miles : (FRYER-E3-H,II,187.222)

This <font> Caravan Ser Raw </font> is named from a Tree growing here ,
and a Village properly so called <paren> of which it is a Composition
in <font> Persian </font> </paren> , it being the first we met with
whose Houses were fixed . (FRYER-E3-H,II,187.223)

The following Day we continued going between two Chains of Dry and
Burnt Hills , through a stony Valley , not without fear of suffocating
, although it was near Evening e're we set out , and Yesterday's
Showers had benignly distilled on the Fiery Drought , to cool the
parched Earth : (FRYER-E3-H,II,187.224)

But this is the dreadful Vale , where when the Hot <font> North </font>
Winds blow at this time , it sweeps both Men and Beasts away , either-2
by Night or Day , the Heat being as intense and as intolerable as that
from the Mouth of an Oven : (FRYER-E3-H,II,187.225)

We were conducted through this Furnace by the Divine Protection <paren>
without being put to make use of the common Remedy in this Exigency ,
which is , upon perceiving of the hot Blasts , to cast our selves flat
on the Ground till they are over , thereby to prevent the Fate
attending those who refuse to stoop to this known Prescription , which
is , to fall down dead , never to rise more alive </paren> , till we
were <P_II,188> mounted where these two Chains are linked to each other
, (FRYER-E3-H,II,188.226)

and by their mutual Ascent we were lift up on high ,
(FRYER-E3-H,II,188.227)

and then gently descending we were led down to <font> Goorbazergum
</font> , Fifteen miles from <font> Caurestan </font> .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,188.228)

In this Bottom is a solitary Inn , very commodiously seated ;
(FRYER-E3-H,II,188.229)

it is surrounded with Mountains , at whose Bottoms are store of
Water-Melons , a grateful Cooler in this Extremity of Heat :
(FRYER-E3-H,II,188.230)

<font> Goor-Bazergum </font> is as it were to say , <font> The
Merchants Grave </font> , in the <font> Persian </font> Tongue .
(FRYER-E3-H,II,188.231)

