<P_169>

<heading:edcomment:4_INTO_DERBYSHIRE_AND_BACK>

Another journey to Darby town from Woolsly by Colton and Blithbery
{COM:Blithbury} 3 mile , (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.3)

thence to Yoxwell {COM:Yoxall} 3 mile over Nedwood {COM:Needwood}
Forest of the kings which is mile in extent , (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.4)

all the way you have a fine prospect of the Country , enclosed good
lands admirable corne of all sorts , good grass ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.5)

I went in sight of Tedbery {COM:Tutbury} Castle which is the kings , a
great fortification but all decay'd , (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.6)

here 4 mile more (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.7)

and there it was that I pass the river Dove on a stone bridge called
Dovebridge which enters me into Darbyshire (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.8)

and thence $it $'s {TEXT:its} 8 mile more to Darby town .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,169.9)

Darby town lies down in a bottom built all of brick or for the most
part , (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.10)

in it are 5 Churches built of stone the biggest of which I was in
{COM:All_Saints} the tower was finely carv'd full of niches and
pedistals whereon statues had been set , (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.11)

but nothing worth notice in the inside except a monument which was over
the vault of the Duke {COM:Earl} of Devonshire , on which stands 2
Effigys at length all of white marble the Earle and his Countess of
Devonshire with an arch of cannopy of stone over their heads ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,169.12)

this is rail'd in with iron grates , (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.13)

there is also another statue of marble painted and gilded lying at
length which is also railed in ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.14)

the River Derwent runes by the town (FIENNES-E3-P2,169.15)

and turns many mills and the water <P_170> engine which turns the water
into the pipes that serves the town , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.16)

the same wheele grinds also , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.17)

but they do it for a half penny a strike which is the same measure as
our bushell , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.18)

at this Engine they can grind if $it $'s {TEXT:its} never so high a
flood which hinders all the other from working , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.19)

at the flood they are quite choaked up , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.20)

but this they can set higher or lower just as the water is ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,170.21)

there are bay's which they make with stones to keep the water to run to
the mill (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.22)

and thence it falls againe into the Derwent ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.23)

there is also a fine stone Cunduite in the Market place which is very
spacious well pitch'd , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.24)

a good Market Cross ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.25)

this is a dear place for strangers notwithstanding the plentyfullness
of all provision (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.26)

my dinner cost me 5s. and 8d. , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.27)

only 2 servant men with me (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.28)

and I had but a shoulder of mutton and bread and beer ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,170.29)

here they make great quantetys of gloves , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.30)

I did not observe or learn any other trade or manufacture ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,170.31)

they had only shops of all sorts of things ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.32)

they carry much of their carriages on sledges to secure their pitching
in the streetes . (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.33)

Thence I went to Chartly {COM:Chartley} 6 mile Lord Ferrers and thence
Bradly {COM:Bretby} Lord Chesterfields (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.34)

and passed by a fine parke of some Gentlemans , in which was a summer
house on the side of the hill amongst fine tall trees which look'd very
well , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.35)

and on the right hand I turned up to the Earle of Chesterfields Parke
full of fine rows of trees running up the avenues to the house ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,170.36)

one enters an outward court (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.37)

and drives round a little pond , like a ditch all pav'd with stone or
great bason of stone , in which were two swans swimming about in that
little compass ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.38)

the gates are all iron barrs and the whole front of the house open iron
pallasadoe spikes in a compass round like a half moone answerable to
that beyond , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.39)

the stable yard is another such a demy circle of open pallasadoe that
lets you out to the prospect of the grounds beyond , full of regular
rows of trees ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.40)

the house has a visto quite thro' by a glass bellcony ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,170.41)

doors into the gardens , (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.42)

and so to the parke beyond ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.43)

on that side the front has something surpriseing in it
(FIENNES-E3-P2,170.44)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} all of free stone which is dipt in oyle that adds a
varnish to its lustre as well as security to its foundation ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,170.45)

the roofe is not flatt as our modern buildings (FIENNES-E3-P2,170.46)

so <P_171> the garret windows come out on the tileing which is all of
slatt ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.47)

none of the windows are sashes which in my opinion is the only thing it
wants to render it a compleate building ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.48)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} halfe a roman H , (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.49)

there is an ascent of 5 or 6 steps all stone to the gates
(FIENNES-E3-P2,171.50)

and so you proceed on a broad paved walke , which is divided by a cross
walke of the same , towards the upper end , (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.51)

thence the ascent by as many more stone steps into a noble hall that
has a row of white marble pillars at the upper end ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,171.52)

the middle the little roome with a marble table in the middle , which
is the balcony into the garden but $that $'s {TEXT:thats} without steps
down into the garden ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.53)

from these rows of pillars on the right hand runs a passage to the
servants roome and all the offices , (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.54)

and at the end is a Chappell which was very neate ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,171.55)

over the alter is a large ovall of glass of the sort of Private glass
used in windows to obscure the sight from without , but hinders not the
light within side - (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.56)

this look'd pretty as being particular and uncom~on .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,171.57)

There was a little organ , and closets for the Lord and Ladies to sitt
in ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.58)

from the hall on the left hand enters into a large roome with a
billiard table ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.59)

from thence into a large parlour and 2 drawing-roomes ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,171.60)

there was a good dineing roome above ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.61)

the drawing roome had company in it - the Earle having just marry'd his
eldest Daughter Lady Mary to one Mr. Cooke , a Gentleman of a good
Estate hard by , (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.62)

so there was company to wishe her joy - (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.63)

but I was in severall bedchambers , (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.64)

one had a crimson damaske bed , the other crimson velvet set upon halfe
paces , (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.65)

this best was the bride chamber which used to be call'd the Silver
roome where the stands table and fire utensills were all massy silver ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,171.66)

but when plaite was in nomination to pay a tax , the Earle of
Chesterfield sold it all and the plaite of the house , so that when the
table was spread I saw only spoones salts and forks and the side board
plaite , noe plaites or dishes and but few salvers ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,171.67)

the pictures was all burnt by a fire (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.68)

and so there are only bare walls , (FIENNES-E3-P2,171.69)

one roome was painted over head , the others frettwork .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,171.70)

But that which is most admired - and justly so to be - by all persons
and excite their curiosity to come and see is the <P_172> Gardens and
Waterworks ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.71)

out of the billiard roome the first was with gravell walks and a large
fountaine in the middle with flower potts and greens set round the
brimm of the fountaines that are paved with stone ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,172.72)

you see but one garden at a tyme ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.73)

the pipes in the fountaines play very finely , some of a great height ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,172.74)

some flushes the water about , (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.75)

then you come to a descent of severall steps which discovers another
fine garden with fountaines playing through pipes , besett on the
bancks with all sort of greens and flower trees dwarfes honeysuckles in
a round tuft growing uppright and all sorts of flower trees and greens
finely cutt and exactly kept ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.76)

in one garden there are 3 fountaines wherein stands great statues ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,172.77)

each side on their pedistalls is a Dial , one for the sun , the other a
Clock which by the water worke is moved and strikes the hours and
chimes the quarters , and when they please play Lilibolaro on the
Chymes - (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.78)

all this I heard when I was there - (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.79)

on one side of this garden is a half compass with a breast wall on
which are high iron pallisadoes divided with severall pillars , stone
with images on their tops ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.80)

about 2 yards distance this opens to view the parke and a sort of
cannall or pond which is in it of a good bigness ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,172.81)

beyond this garden is a row of orange and lemon trees set in the ground
, of a man's height and pretty big , full of flowers and some large
fruit almost ripe ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.82)

this has a penthouse over it which is cover'd up very close in the
winter ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.83)

this leads on to a great wilderness (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.84)

and just by it is another square with a fountaine whose brim is deck'd
with flower potts full of flowers and all sorts of greens ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,172.85)

on either side is 2 or 3 rows of orange and lemon trees in boxes one
below another in growth . (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.86)

Just against this is a wall cover'd over with lawrell finely cutt
(FIENNES-E3-P2,172.87)

and also in the middle is an arch , (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.88)

and on either side stone staires ascends it which terminate in a sort
of half pace all cover'd over with lawrell , (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.89)

and this enters a doore into another garden through a little garden
house ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.90)

this also has a fine fountaine like the others (FIENNES-E3-P2,172.91)

only as most off the others <P_173> was green walks this was gravell ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.92)

so was the garden on the right side of the house ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.93)

the front garden which has the largest fountaine has also a fine green
house and very fine flowers , (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.94)

and the beds and borders are cut in severall formes ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.95)

the greens are very fine and the hedges cut in severall formes ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.96)

there was one tree not much unlike the cyprus green
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.97)

but the branches were more spread and of a little yellower green , the
barke of the limbs yellow , (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.98)

it was the Cedar of Lebonus ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.99)

there was also fine strip'd stocks double like a rose ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.100)

there was a large Ewe tree in the middle of one garden cut in forms ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.101)

fine firrs and cyprus and filleroy {COM:phillyrea} of which some was
striped like silver white others yellow like gold which gave them their
different names , and fine gilded and striped hollys .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.102)

There was one green in a pott call'd St. John the Baptists herb ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.103)

it was full of many leaves and the coullour not much unlike the green
they call Solomons Seale (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.104)

but longer and bigger leaves , (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.105)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} an annual plant ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.106)

here just by the wilderness is the Tulip tree which runns up of a great
height (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.107)

and the flower is on the top (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.108)

it flowers in August ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.109)

there is a great avery of birds which stands like a sum~er house open ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.110)

there is also many close averys of birds and severall green shady walks
and close arbours , (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.111)

there are very fine wood bines grows like tufts all in flower red and
white ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.112)

there is some of the fountaines that have figures in them that throws
up water a greate height , a cascade of water . (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.113)

Then I returned into the hall and so into a coole roome in which was a
fountaine , where I dranke a glass of wine , (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.114)

and so proceeded ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.115)

this was 3 miles from Chartry , (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.116)

thence through a fine visto or glide of trees which runs along the
parke , (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.117)

and so to Burton on the Trent 2 long miles ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.118)

this is a pretty large town , (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.119)

here is a very long stone bridge over the Trent ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.120)

the streetes are very well pitch'd and some very broad ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.121)

thence over Nedwood {COM:Needwood} Forest 6 mile
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.122)

and thence to Yoksell {COM:Yoxall} which is 6 mile more to Woolsley
(FIENNES-E3-P2,173.123)

and they are all long miles . (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.124)

Then I went againe to Stafford town 5 miles and from thence to Instree
{COM:Ingestre} Mr. Shetwins {COM:Chetwynd} ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,173.125)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} <P_174> bad way , (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.126)

you go by St. Thomas's which was some old abbey (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.127)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} still a good house ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.128)

going along the side of the hill gives a great view of the country that
is mostly on inclosures (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.129)

we passed between two parkes , (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.130)

the one is Lord Astons , (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.131)

and goe in sight of Tixall Hall which is his , a good house
(FIENNES-E3-P2,174.132)

and looks handsomely of stone building ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.133)

the other was Mr. Shetwins {COM:Chetwynd} parke which has fine rows of
trees firrs Scots and Noroway , and the picanther ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,174.134)

the front lookes nobly ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.135)

noe flatt roofed houses in this country but much in windows ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,174.136)

two large bow windows on each side runns up the whole building , the
middle the same , besides much flatt window between so that the whole
is little besides window ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.137)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} built brick and stone ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.138)

the part to the garden ward is new building of the new fashion and sash
windows ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.139)

the court is 2 or 3 stepps up with open iron pallasadoes the breadth of
the house , and a broad paved walk which leads up to the doore in the
middle ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.140)

the visto is quite through the house (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.141)

and so to the gardens (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.142)

and through a long walke of trees of a mile through the parke to a
lodge or summer house at the end , which lookes very finely , it being
a riseing ground up to the parke ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.143)

there is a crosse paved walke in the Court which leads to a little
house on each end like summer houses with towers and balls on the top ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,174.144)

the one leads through to the Church yard which is planted with rows of
Ewe trees very uniforme and cut neately . (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.145)

The Church is new (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.146)

and very handsome good fretworke on the top (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.147)

the wood worke well carv'd (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.148)

its seates good wanscoate and with locks , (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.149)

in the Chancell are two monuments of marble , one all white , the other
white with a border black and with white pillars ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,174.150)

the middle at the bottom is alabaster ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.151)

the pillars of the Church is made of the red stone which is plenty in
this country (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.152)

and they are all polished over , (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.153)

the font is all white marble , stem the same veined blew ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,174.154)

the foote is black , (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.155)

the cover is wood carv'd very well ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.156)

the porch is very high on which is a dyal , (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.157)

it almost breaks ones neck to looke up at it (FIENNES-E3-P2,174.158)

for $that $'s {TEXT:thats} the tower in which are 5 bells .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,174.159)

There is just against this a garden , on the other side the <P_175>
dwelling house which is severall steps up it , (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.160)

gravell walkes full of flowers and greens and a box hedge cut finely
with little trees , some cut round , and another hedge of strip'd holly
cut even and some of lawrell cut even likewise ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,175.161)

out of this goes into a flower garden divided into knotts in which were
14 Cyprus trees which were grown up very tall some of them and kept
cutt close in four squares down to the bottom , (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.162)

towards the top they enclined to a point or spire ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,175.163)

thence into another garden with gravel walks (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.164)

and so into a summer house through which you enter a good bowling-green
, which also goes out of another garden which takes in the whole
breadth of the house and is full of flowers and greens and dwarfe trees
and little borders of severall sorts of greens cut even and close , of
tyme severall sorts and of savin which is another coullour and of
lavender cotten another coullour and rosemary and severall others .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,175.165)

From this bowling-green in the middle you descend 18 steps in a
demi-circle inwards halfe way , (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.166)

then the stones are set round (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.167)

and so the half pace is , (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.168)

and the other stepps are round turned outward and the lowest much the
largest , as was the uppermost of the first ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.169)

this leads to a place designed for ponds to keep fish in ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,175.170)

but this place will not admitt of any water works altho' $it $'s
{TEXT:its} a deep dirty country , (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.171)

they neither-1 have good gravell or marle to make a pond secure to hold
water (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.172)

nor are they near enough the springs , (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.173)

but are forced to be supply'd with water by pipes from the River Trent
that is a mile off - (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.174)

and yet the whole place seems a quage when one is descended the hill -
(FIENNES-E3-P2,175.175)

this seemes to be the only thing wanting (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.176)

for just by the bowling-green is a very fine wilderness with many large
walks of a great length , full of all sorts of trees scycamores willows
hazel chesnutts walnuts set very thicke and so shorn smooth to the top
which is left as a tuff or crown , (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.177)

they are very lofty in growth which makes the length of a walke look
nobly ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,175.178)

there is also a row on the outside of firrs round every grove 2 yards
or 3 distant some silver firrs some Norraway <P_176> some Scotts and
pine trees ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.179)

these hold their beauty round the groves in the winter when the others
cast their leaves . (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.180)

This was from Stafford 3 mile (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.181)

and to Woolsley was 3 mile more through narrow stony lanes through
Great Heywood {COM:Haywood} . (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.182)

Att Instree {COM:Ingestre} Mr. Shetwins {COM:Chetwynd} I saw a fine
pomgranate tree as tall as my self , (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.183)

the leafe is a long slender leafe of a yellowish green edged with red
(FIENNES-E3-P2,176.184)

and feeles pretty thicke , (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.185)

the blossom is white and very double ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.186)

there was a terrass walke in one of the gardens that gave the full
prospect of the country a great way about , (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.187)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} a deep country , (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.188)

you are going these 3 miles to Woolsly a great while ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,176.189)

there was at Sir Charles Woolsly's some of the best good land and some
of the worst as is the Kankwood {COM:Cannock_Wood}
(FIENNES-E3-P2,176.190)

but here the roads are pretty good and hard which makes it pleasant ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,176.191)

there is much fine fruite here , Sir Charles takeing great delight in
his gardens - (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.192)

I must say I never saw trees so well dress'd and pruned , the walls so
equally cover'd as there ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.193)

there is severall sorts of strawbery's (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.194)

but the vermillion is the finest very large as any garden strawbery and
of a fine scarlet coullour , (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.195)

but $it $'s {TEXT:its} a later sort ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.196)

there was a pretty almond tree in bloome the flower not unlike a
rosemary flower . (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.197)

<heading:edcomment:5_WOLSELEY_THROUGH_CHESHIRE_INTO_WALES_AND_OUT_
AGAIN>

From thence I tooke my progress northward (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.199)

and went from hence to Newcastle under Line {COM:Newcastle_under_Lyme}
through Stone which was 9 mile , and then to Trentum {COM:Trentham}
(FIENNES-E3-P2,176.200)

and passed by a great house {COM:Trentham_Hall} of Mr. Leveston Gore
{COM:Leveson_Gower} , (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.201)

and went on the side of a high hill below which the River Trent rann
and turn'd its silver streame forward and backward into Ss which looked
very pleasant circleing about the fine meadows in their flourishing
tyme , bedecked with hay almost ripe and flowers ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,176.202)

6 mile more to Newcastle under Line where is the fine shineing Channell
{COM:Cannel} Coale , (FIENNES-E3-P2,176.203)

so the proverb to both <P_177> the Newcastles of bringing Coales to
them is a needless labour , one being famous for this coale $that $'s
{TEXT:thats} cloven and makes white ashes , as is this ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,177.204)

and the Newcastle on the Tyne is for the sea-coale that cakes and is
what is common and famillier to every smith in all villages ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,177.205)

I went to this Newcastle in Staffordshire to see the makeing the fine
tea-potts cups and saucers of the fine red earth , in imitation and as
curious as that which comes from China , (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.206)

but was defeated in my design , they comeing to an end of their clay
they made use off for that sort of ware (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.207)

and therefore was remov'd to some other place where they were not
settled at their work , (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.208)

so could not see it ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.209)

therefore I went on to Betely {COM:Betley} 6 miles farther
(FIENNES-E3-P2,177.210)

and went by a ruinated Castle the walls still remaineing called Healy
{COM:or_Heighley} Castle - (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.211)

this was deep clay way ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.212)

this town is halfe in Staffordshire and halfe in Cheshire one side of
the streete in the one and the other in the latter , so that they often
jest on it in travelling one wheele goes in Staffordshire the other
wheele in Cheshire ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.213)

here is a great mer or standing water (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.214)

2 miles compass (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.215)

great store of good fish , (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.216)

it belongs to one Mr. Egerton . (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.217)

Thence I went to Nantwitch {COM:Nantwich} 5 long miles ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,177.218)

Nantwitch is a pretty large town and well built ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,177.219)

here are the salt springs of which they make salt and many salterns
which were a boyling the salt ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.220)

this is a pretty rich land ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.221)

you must travell on a Caussey , (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.222)

I went 3 miles on a Caussey through much wood ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.223)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} from Nantwitch to Chester town 14 long miles the
wayes being deep ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.224)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} much on enclosures (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.225)

and I passed by severall large pooles of waters but what I wonder'd at
was that tho' this shire is remarkable for a greate deale of greate
Cheeses and Dairys I did not see more than or cowes in a troope feeding
, (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.226)

but on enquiry find the custome of the country to joyn their milking
together of a whole village and so make their great Cheeses
(FIENNES-E3-P2,177.227)

and so it goes round . (FIENNES-E3-P2,177.228)

<P_178>

West Chester town lies in a bottom (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.230)

and runs a greate length (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.231)

and is pretty big (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.232)

there are Churches ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.233)

the Cathedrall is large and lofty , the quire well carv'd
(FIENNES-E3-P2,178.234)

fine tapistry hangings at the alter , (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.235)

a good organ ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.236)

the Bishops Pallace is on the right hand of it and the Doctors houses
all built of stone , (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.237)

there is a new Hall building which is for the assize
(FIENNES-E3-P2,178.238)

and it stands on great stone pillars which is to be the Exchange ,
which will be very convenient and handsome , (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.239)

the Hall is round , (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.240)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} built of bricke and stone coynes ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,178.241)

there are leads all round with battlements (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.242)

and in the middle is a tower ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.243)

there are ballconies on the side and windows quite round the Cupillow
that shews the whole town round ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.244)

there is another Town Hall a long lofty place and another by the side
which is called the Councill Roome both for the Major {COM:Mayor} and
Aldermen to meete for the buissinesse of the Corporation ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,178.245)

the town is walled all aboute with battlements (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.246)

and a wallke all round pav'd with stone ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.247)

I allmost encompass'd the walls ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.248)

the streetes are of a greate breadth from the houses ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,178.249)

but there is one thing takes much from their appeareing so and from
their beauty , (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.250)

for on each side in most places they have made penthouses so broad set
on pillars which persons walks under covert , (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.251)

and is made up and down steps under which are ware houses ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,178.252)

tho' a penthouse or pallasadoe be convenient and a security from the
sun or weather and were it no broader than for two to passe one by the
other it would be well and no dissight to the grace of the streetes ,
but this does darken the streetes and hinder the light of the houses in
many places to the streete ward below ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.253)

indeed in some places were it only before the chiefly persons houses it
would be convenient where $it $'s {TEXT:its} flatt and even with the
streetes ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.254)

the town is mostly timber buildings , (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.255)

the trade and concourse of people to it is chiefly from the intercourse
it has with Ireland , (FIENNES-E3-P2,178.256)

most take this passage , and also the intercourse with Wales which is
parted from it and England by the River Dee , which washes the Castle
walls <P_179> in which they keep their stores - (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.257)

but nothing fine in it - (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.258)

the walls and towers seemes in good repaire ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.259)

at the end of the town just by the Castle you crosse over a very large
and long Bridge over the River Dee which has the tyde comes up much
beyond the town , (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.260)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} 7 mile off that it falls into the sea
(FIENNES-E3-P2,179.261)

but $it $'s {TEXT:its} very broad below the town , when at high tyde is
like a very broad sea ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.262)

there they have a little dock (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.263)

and build shipps of tunn (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.264)

I saw some on the stocks . (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.265)

Cross this river by this bridge enters Flintshire
(FIENNES-E3-P2,179.266)

and so crossed over the marshes , which is hazardous to strangers ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,179.267)

therefore Mr. William Allen <paren> which was the Major {COM:Mayor} of
Chester that tyme and gave me a very civil treate being an acquaintance
of my Brother Sir Edmund Harrison </paren> so order'd his son and
another gentleman to ride with me to direct to Harding {COM:Hawarden}
which was 5 mile ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.268)

just by that was a very fine new built house of brick and in the exact
forme of the London architecture which was this Mr. Majors house and
good gardens . (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.269)

Att Harding , where was my Relation , Dr. Percivalls wife , who was
Minister of that place ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.270)

his parish was 8 miles in extent (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.271)

and 2 lordships in it (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.272)

and the ruines of two great Castles in it remaines ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,179.273)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} good rich land here much on enclosures and woods ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,179.274)

in a tarresse walke in my Relations garden I could very plainly see
Chester and the River Dee with all its washes over the marsh ground
which look'd very finely ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.275)

here are sands which makes it very difficult for strangers to passe
without a guide ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.276)

from thence my Relation carry'd me to Holly well {COM:Holywell}
(FIENNES-E3-P2,179.277)

and pass'd thro' Flint town which is the shire town , 5 mile from
Harding ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.278)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} a very ragged place (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.279)

many villages in England are better , (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.280)

the houses all thatched and stone walls but so decay'd that in many
places ready to tumble down ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.281)

there was a Town Hall such a one as it was ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.282)

it was at a Session tyme when I was there which shew'd it at its prime
; (FIENNES-E3-P2,179.283)

there is a Castle which <P_180> still remaines with its towers built of
stone , (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.284)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} down to the water side ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.285)

from thence to Holy well is 3 mile mostly by the water side which is
reckon'd the sea - (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.286)

here I went just in sight of High Lake {COM:Hoylake} where were many
shipps rideing along that harbour . (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.287)

St. Winfreds Well is built over with stone on pillars like a tryumphall
arch or tower on the gates of a Church ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.288)

there is a pavement of stone within ground 3 sides of the Well which is
joyn'd on the fourth side by a great arch of stone which lies over the
water that runs off from the Well , (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.289)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} many springs which bubbles up very fast and lookes
cleane in a compass which is 8 square walled in with stone ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,180.290)

in the bottom which you see as clear as Chrystall are 9 stones layd in
an oval on which are dropps of red coullour some almost quite covering
the top of the stone , which is pretended to be the blood of this holy
saint whose head was struck off here , (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.291)

and so where her body laid this spring burst forth and remaines till
now , a very rapid current , which runs off from this Well under a
barre by which there are stone stepps for the persons to descend which
will bathe themselves in the Well ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.292)

and so they walke along the streame to the other end
(FIENNES-E3-P2,180.293)

and then come out , (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.294)

but there is nothing to shelter them (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.295)

but are exposed to all the Company that are walking about the Well and
to the little houses and part of the streete which runs along by it ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,180.296)

but the Religeuse are not to mind that ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.297)

it seemes the Saint they do honour to in this place must beare them out
in all things , (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.298)

they tell of many lameness's and aches and distempers which are cured
by it ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.299)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} a cold water and cleare (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.300)

and runs off very quick so that it would be a pleasant refreshment in
the sum~er to washe ones self in it , (FIENNES-E3-P2,180.301)

but $it $'s {TEXT:its} <P_181> shallow not up to the waste so $it $'s
{TEXT:its} not easye to dive and washe in ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.302)

but I thinke I could not have been persuaded to have gone in unless
might have had curtains to have drawn about some part of it to have
shelter'd from the streete , (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.303)

for the wett garments are no covering to the body ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.304)

but there I saw abundance of the devout papists on their knees all
round the Well ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.305)

poor people are deluded into an ignorant blind zeale and to be pity'd
by us that have the advantage of knowing better and ought to be better
; (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.306)

there is some small stones of a reddish coullour in the Well said to be
some of St. Winifreds blood also , which the poore people take out and
bring to the strangers for curiosity and relicts , and also moss about
the bancks full of great virtue for every thing -
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.307)

but $it $'s {TEXT:its} a certaine gaine to the poore people ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.308)

every one gives them something for bringing them moss and the stones ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.309)

but least they should in length of tyme be quite gather'd up they take
care to replenish it dayly from some mossy hill (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.310)

and so stick it along the sides of the Well - (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.311)

there is good streames runs from it and by meanes of steepe descent
runs down and turns mills ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.312)

they come also to drinke of the water which they take up in the first
square which is walled round and where the springs rise ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.313)

and they say $it $'s {TEXT:its} of wonder full operation ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.314)

the taste to me was but like good spring water which with wine and
sugar and leamons might make a pleasant draught after walking amongst
those shady trees of which there is a great many
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.315)

and some straight and tall like a grove but not very uniforme , but a
sort of iregular rows . (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.316)

From thence I went back to Harding {COM:Hawarden} which is 8 very long
miles ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.317)

at Holly Well {COM:Holywell} they speake Welsh ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.318)

the inhabitants go barefoote and bare leg'd a nasty sort of people ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.319)

their meate is very small here , (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.320)

mutton is noe bigger than little lamb , (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.321)

what of it there is was sweete ; their wine good being neare the sea
side (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.322)

and are well provided with fish , (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.323)

very good salmon and eeles and other fish I had at Harding .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,181.324)

This shire is improperly called Flintshire there being noe flints in
all the country ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.325)

there are great Coale pitts of the Channell {COM:Cannel} Coale $that
$'s {TEXT:thats} cloven huge great pieces , (FIENNES-E3-P2,181.326)

they <P_182> have great wheeles that are turned with horses that draw
up the water and so draine the Mines which would else be overflowed so
as they could not dig the coale ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.327)

they have also engines that draw up their coale in sort of baskets like
hand barrows which they wind up like a bucket in a well ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,182.328)

for their mines are dug down through a sort of well
(FIENNES-E3-P2,182.329)

and sometymes $it $'s {TEXT:its} pretty low before they come to the
coales ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.330)

it makes the road unsafe because of the coale pitts and also from the
slough and quick sands all here about being mostly near the bancks of
the water . (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.331)

In this country are quarrys of stone , copper and iron mines and salt
hills , (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.332)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} a hilly place very steep descents great many very
high hills , (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.333)

but I went not so farre as Pen ma mower {COM:Penmaenmawr}

but cross'd the River Dee haveing first went two mile by these coale
mines at least in a place ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.335)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} a thing which holds neer 2 bushell that is their
basket they draw up which is bought for 6 pence .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,182.336)

I forded over the Dee when the tide was out all upon the sands at least
a mile which was as smooth as a die being a few hours left of the flood
; (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.337)

the sands are here soe loose that the tydes does move them from one
place to another at every flood , that the same place one used to foard
a month or two before is not to be pass'd now , (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.338)

for as it brings the sands in heaps to one place so it leaves others in
deep holes , which are cover'd with water , and loose sand that would
swallow up a horse or carriages , (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.339)

so I had two Guides to conduct me over ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.340)

the carriages which are used to it and pass continually at the ebbs of
water observes the drift of sands (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.341)

and so escape the danger ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.342)

it was at least a mile I went on the sands before I came to the middle
of the channell which was pretty deep , and with such a current or tyde
which was falling out to sea together with the wind the horses feete
could scarce stand against it , (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.343)

but it was but narrow just the deep part of the channell and so soone
over ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.344)

when the tyde is fully out they frequently ford in many places which
they marke as the sands fall , (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.345)

and can go near 9 or mile over the sands from Chester to Burton or to
Flint town almost ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,182.346)

but many persons that have known the foards well , that have <P_183>
come a year or half a year after , if they venture on their former
knowledge have been overwhelm'd in the ditches made by the sands ,
which is deep enough to swallow up a coach or waggon ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,183.347)

but they convey their coales from Wales and any other things by waggon
when the tyde is out to Chester and other parts .
(FIENNES-E3-P2,183.348)

From Burton which was on the side of England the shore I went to the
ferry 9 miles to the River Meresy {COM:Mersey} , another great river
indeed much broader and a perfect sea for mile or more ;
(FIENNES-E3-P2,183.349)

it comes out of Lancashire from Warrington (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.350)

and both this and the Dee empts themselves into the sea almost together
a few leagues from Leverpoole {COM:Liverpool} which poole is form'd by
a poynt of land that runs almost round the entrance from the sea ,
being narrow and hazardous to strangers to saile in in the winter ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,183.351)

the mouth of the river by reason of the sands and rocks is a gate to
the river ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.352)

this I ferry'd over (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.353)

and was an hour and halfe in the passage , (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.354)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} of great bredth (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.355)

and at low water is so deep and salt as the sea almost , tho' it does
not cast so green a hew on the water as the sea ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,183.356)

but else the waves toss (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.357)

and the rocks great all round it (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.358)

and is as dangerous as the sea ; (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.359)

$it $'s {TEXT:its} in a sort of Hoy that I ferried over and my horses ,
(FIENNES-E3-P2,183.360)

the boate would have held people . (FIENNES-E3-P2,183.361)

