<P_1,205>

About this time the <font> Rajah </font> , according to the <font>
Hindu </font> Custom , was weighed in Gold , and poised about Pagods ,
which Money , together with an more is to be distributed among the
<font> Brachmines </font> after the day <P_1,206> he is enthroned , who
in great numbers flock hither from all parts of his Territories .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.2)

Being earnest to press on his Errand he came for , the Ambassador sent
to <font> Narun Gi Pundit </font> to know what was transacted in the
Articles ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.3)

but was returned for Answer . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.4)

The <font> Rajah </font> stopt his Ears to all Affairs , declaring he
had granted all the Demands , except those two Articles , expressing ,
Our Money shall go current in his Dominions , and his on <font> Bombaim
</font> ; and that he shall restore whatever Wrecks may happen on his
Coasts belonging to the <font> English </font> , and Inhabitants of
<font> Bombaim </font> : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.5)

The first he accounted unnecessary to be inserted , because he forbids
not the passing of any manner of Coins ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.6)

nor on the other side , can he force his Subjects to take those Monies
whereby they shall be Losers ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.7)

but if our Coin be as fine an Allay , and as weighty as the <font>
Mogul's </font> , and other Princes , he will not prohibit it .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.8)

To the other he says , that it is against the Laws of <font> Conchon
</font> to restore any Ships , Vessels , or Goods , that are driven
ashore by <P_1,207> Tempest , or otherwise ; and that should he grant
us that Privilege , the <font> French </font> , <font> Dutch </font> ,
and other Merchants , would claim the same Right ; which he could not
grant without breaking a Custom has lasted many Ages :
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.9)

The rest of our Desires he willingly conceded , embracing with much
satisfaction our Friendship , promising to himself and Country much
Happiness by our Settlement and Trade : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.10)

Notwithstanding <font> Narun Gi Pundit </font> did not altogether
despair of obtaining our Wrecks , because we enjoyed the same Privilege
in the <font> Mogul </font> , and <font> Duccan </font> Country .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.11)

Near a Month after they had been here , <font> Narun Gi Pundit </font>
sent word , That to Morrow about Seven or Eight in the Morning , the
<font> Rajah Seva Gi </font> intended to ascend his Throne ; and he
would take it kindly if they came to congratulate him thereon ; that it
was necessary to present him with some small thing , it not being the
Custom of the <font> Eastern </font> Parts to appear before a Prince
empty-handed . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.12)

The Ambassador sent him word , according to his Advice he would wait on
the <font> Rajah </font> at the prescribed time .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.13)

Accordingly next Morning he and his Retinue went to Court ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.14)

and found the <font> Rajah </font> seated on a Magnificent Throne , and
all his Nobles waiting on him in Rich Attire ; his Son <font> Samba Gi
Rajah </font> , <font> Peshuah Mora Pundit </font> , and a <font>
Brachmin </font> of Great Eminence , seated on an Ascent under the
Throne ; the rest , as well Officers of the Army as others , standing
with great Respect . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.15)

The <font> English </font> made their Obeisance at a distance ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.16)

and <font> Narun Sinai </font> held up the Diamond Ring that was to be
presented him : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.17)

He presently took notice of it , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.18)

and ordered their coming nearer , even to the Foot of the Throne ,
where being Vested , they were desired to retire ; which they did not
so soon , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.19)

but they took notice on each side of the Throne there hung <paren>
according to the <font> Moors </font> manner </paren> on heads
<P_1,208> of Gilded Launces many Emblems of Dominion and Government ;
as on the Right-hand were two great Fishes Heads of Gold , with very
large Teeth ; on the Left , several Horses Tails , a Pair of Gold
Scales on a very high Launce's head , equally poized , an Emblem of
Justice ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.20)

and as they returned , at the Palace Gate stood two small Elephants on
each side , and two fair Horses with Gold Trappings , Bridles , and
Rich Furniture ; which made them admire how they brought them up the
Hill , the Passage being both difficult and hazardous .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.21)

Two days after this , the <font> Rajah </font> was married to a Fourth
Wife , without State ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.22)

and doth every day bestow Alms on the <font> Brachmins </font> .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.23)

Some days after , <font> Narun Gi Pundit </font> sent word the <font>
Rajah </font> had signed their Articles , all but that about Money .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.24)

Then the rest of the Ministers of State signed them ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.25)

and they went to receive them of <font> Narun Gi Pundit </font> ,
<P_1,209> who delivered them to the Ambassador with Expressions of
great Kindness for our Nation , and offered on all occasions to be
serviceable to the <font> English </font> at the Court of the <font>
Rajah </font> . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.26)

I will only add one Passage during the Stay of our Ambassador at <font>
Rairee </font> : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.27)

The Diet of this sort of People admits not of great Variety or Cost ,
their delightfullest Food being only <font> Cutchery </font> , a sort
of Pulse and Rice mixed together , and boiled in Butter , with which
they grow Fat : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.28)

but such Victuals could not be long pleasing to our Merchants , who had
been used to Feed on good Flesh : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.29)

It was therefore signified to the <font> Rajah </font> , That Meat
should be provided for them ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.30)

and to that end a Butcher that served those few <font> Moors </font>
that were there , that were able to go to the Charge of Meat , was
ordered to supply them with what Goat they should expend <paren>
nothing else here being to be gotten for them </paren> , which he did
accordingly , to the consumption of half a Goat a Day , which he found
very profitable for him , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.31)

and thereupon was taken with a Curiosity to visit his new Customers ;
to whom , when he came , it was told them , The honest Butcher had made
an Adventure up the Hill , though very old , to have the sight of his
good Masters , who had taken off of his hands more Flesh in that time
they had been there than he had sold in some Years before ; so rare a
thing is it to eat Flesh among them ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.32)

for the <font> Gentiles </font> eat none , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.33)

and the <font> Moors </font> and <font> Portugals </font> eat it well
stew'd , bak'd , or made into Pottage ; no Nation eating it roasted so
commonly as we do : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.34)

And in this point I doubt we <P_1,210> err in these Hot Countries ,
where our Spirits being always upon the Flight , are not so intent on
the business of Concoction ; so that those things that are easiest
digested , and that create the least trouble to the Stomach , we find
by Experience to agree best here . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.35)

<heading>

CHAP. V . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.37)

<font> Our Passage to </font> Swally , <font> and Relation of the
</font> English <font> Presidency at </font> Surat .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.38)

</heading>

After the Rains were over , and the <font> North-East </font> Wind had
brought in the Cool Season , by Command from the President I was sent
to <font> Surat </font> . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.40)

In a Week's time we turned it up , sailing by <font> Bac~ein </font> ,
<font> Tarapore </font> , <font> Valentine's-Peak </font> , St. <font>
John's </font> , and <font> Daman </font> , the last City Northward on
the Continent , belonging to the <font> Portugueze </font> . As also
passing by <font> Balsore </font> <paren> the first Town of the <font>
Moors </font> Southward of <font> Surat </font> </paren>
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.41)

and eight Ships riding at <font> Surat </font> River's Mouth ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.42)

we then came to <font> Swally Marine </font> , where were flying the
several Colours of the Three Nations , <font> English </font> , <font>
French </font> , and <font> Dutch </font> , on Flag-Staffs <P_1,211>
erected for that purpose , who here land and ship off all Goods ,
without molestation . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.43)

Here we were welcomed by the Deputy-President , Mr. <font> Matthew Grey
</font> , an Eminent Merchant , and by the rest of the Council , who
took care for my Entertainment , which here was but rude , the place
admitting of little better Tenements than Booths , stiled by the name
of <font> Choultries </font> : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.44)

Before President <font> Andrew's </font> time they always lodged in
Tents ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.45)

but since , Wooden Houses tiled with Pan-Tiles have been raised in an
Inclosure allotted by the Governor . In which Compound are included
Warehouses , Stables , and other Out-houses , with as good a Garden as
this Sandy Soil will allow ; in which ours exceeds the other two ,
being far pleasanter seated . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.46)

To this place belong two sorts of Vermin , the Fleas and <font> Banyans
</font> ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.47)

the one harbouring in the Sand , fasten upon you as you pass ; where
$'t $is {TEXT:'tis} some Pastime to see what Shift the <font> Banyan
</font> makes , being bit by them , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.48)

he dare not kill them , for fear of unhousing a Soul , according to
their Notion of Transmigration ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.49)

but giving them a severe Pinch will put them to shift for themselves in
a Nest of Cotton-Wool . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.50)

The other Vermin are the <font> Banyans </font> <P_1,212> themselves ,
that hang like Horse-leeches , till they have suck'd both <font>
Sanguinem & Succum </font> <paren> I mean Mony </paren> from you :
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.51)

As soon as you have set your Foot on Shore , they crowd in their
Service , interposing between you and all Civil Respect , as if you had
no other Business but to be gull'd ; so that unless you have some to
make your way through them , they will interrupt your going , and never
leave till they have drawn out something for their Advantage .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.52)

At this time of Shipping they Present the Governor of <font> Surat
</font> , to license them to keep a Mart here , which they make the
<font> Europeans </font> pay dearly for : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.53)

Yet such is their Policy , that without these , neither you nor the
Natives themselves shall do any Business , though they are worse
Brokers than <font> Jews </font> ; if they be not the Spawn of them ,
the <font> Rechabites </font> , that would drink no Wine .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.54)

These generally are the Poorer sort , and set on by the Richer to Trade
with the Seamen for the meanest things they bring ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.55)

and notwithstanding they take them at their own rates , get well enough
in exchange of Goods with them . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.56)

They are the absolute Map of Sordidness , fareing hardly , and
professing fairly , to entrap the unwary ; enduring servily foul Words
, Affronts and Injuries , for a future hope of Gain ; expert in all the
studied arts of Thriving and Insinuation ; so that , Lying ,
Dissembling , Cheating , are their Masterpiece : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.57)

Their whole desire is to have Money pass through their Fingers , to
which a great part is sure to stick : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.58)

For they well understand the constant turning of Cash amounts both-1 to
the Credit and Profit of him that is so occupied ; which these <font>
Banyans </font> are sensible of , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.59)

otherwise they would not be so industrious to enslave themselves .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.60)

Having viewed the Tombs by the Sea-side , and some more conspicuous at
the end of the Plain belonging to the <font> English </font> ; others
seated behind the <font> Dutch Choultry </font> , <P_1,213> partly
<font> English </font> , partly <font> Dutch </font> : Marks set to
avoid , as well the <font> Sylla </font> and <font> Charibdis </font>
of <font> Damkin </font> and <font> Mora </font> , two Nurseries for
Stews , as to warn them of the Sands coming into the Hole where the
Ships ride at Anchor very securely : We in the Company's Coaches
Travelled to <font> Surat </font> , Ten Mile , brave Champion ground ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.61)

but the Coach wherein I was , breaking , we were forced to mount the
<font> Indian Hackery </font> , a Two-wheeled Chariot , drawn by swift
little Oxen . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.62)

By Sun-set we entred the Company's Barge , waiting to carry us over the
River ; where saluted us the dreadful Noise of the <font> Moors </font>
Drums and Trumpets , it being customary for them to sound at the Castle
every Three hours ; but chiefly at Sun-rise and Sun-set :
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.63)

I could think of nothing but the last Trump ; so that I could persuade
my self there was little Musick in it ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.64)

but they say Time will bring it to be agreeable to the Ears .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.65)

On the other side the River , other Four wheeled Coaches expected us ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.66)

and the <font> Moors </font> let us pass the Custom-house without
Examination , having Women among us ; which was no ordinary point of
Civility , they otherwise being strict Examiners , unless the President
cross the River , when they forbear also . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.67)

The Coach where the Women were , was covered with <P_1,214> <font>
Cheeks </font> , a sort of hanging Curtain , made with Bents variously
Coloured with Lacker , and Chequered with Packthred so artificially ,
that you may see all without , and your self within unperceived :
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.68)

Ours was open , and guarded by such a Troop as went to apprehend our
Saviour , dressed after the same manner we find them on old Landskips ,
and led by the same Phanatick Lights we see there Painted .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.69)

Our Reception at the <font> English </font> House was Courteous and
Welcome , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.70)

for the Heat of the Day had tired us . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.71)

The House the <font> English </font> live in at <font> Surat </font> ,
is partly the King's Gift , partly hired ; Built of Stone and excellent
Timber , with good Carving , without Representations ; very strong ,
for that each Floor is Half a Yard thick at least , of the best
plastered Cement , which is very weighty . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.72)

It is contrived after the <font> Moor's </font> Buildings , with upper
and lower Galleries , or Terras-walks ; a neat Oratory , a convenient
open Place for Meals . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.73)

The President has spacious Lodgings , noble Rooms for Counsel and
Entertainment , pleasant Tanks , Yards , and an Hummum to Wash in ; but
no Gardens in the City , or very few , though without they have many ,
like Wildernesses , overspread with Trees . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.74)

The <font> English </font> had a neat one , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.75)

but <font> Seva Gi's </font> coming , <P_1,215> destroyed it :
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.76)

It is known , as the other Factories are , by their several Flags
flying . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.77)

Here they live <paren> in Shipping-time </paren> in a continual
hurlyburly , the <font> Banyans </font> presenting themselves from the
hour of Ten till Noon ; and then Afternoon at Four till Night , as if
it were an Exchange in every Row ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.78)

below stairs , the Packers and Warehouse-keepers , together with
Merchants bringing and receiving Musters , make a meer <font>
Billinsgate </font> ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.79)

for if you make not a Noise , they hardly think you intent on what you
are doing . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.80)

Among the <font> English </font> , the Business is distributed into
four Offices ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.81)

the Accomptant , who is next in Dignity to the President , the general
Accompts of all <font> India </font> , as well as this place , passing
through his hands ; he is <font> Quasi </font> Treasurer , signing all
things , though the Broker keep the Cash . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.82)

Next him is the Warehouse-keeper , who registers all <font> Europe
</font> Goods Vended , and receives all <font> Eastern </font>
Commodities Bought ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.83)

under him is the Purser Marine , who gives Account of all Goods
Exported and Imported , pays Seamen their Wages , provides Waggons and
Porters , looks <P_1,216> after Tackling for Ships , and Ships Stores .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.84)

Last of all is the Secretary , who models all Consultations , writes
all Letters , carries them to the President and Council to be perused
and signed ; keeps the Company's Seal , which is affixed to all Passes
and Commissions ; records all Transactions , and sends Copies of them
to the Company ; though none of these , without the President's
Approbation , can act or do any thing . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.85)

The Affairs of <font> India </font> are solely under his Regulation ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.86)

from him issue out all Orders , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.87)

by him all Preferment is disposed ; by which means the Council are
biassed by his Arbitrament . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.88)

The whole Mass of the Company's Servants may be comprehended in these
Classes , <font> viz. </font> Merchants , Factors , and Writers ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.89)

some Blewcoat Boys also have been entertained under Notion of
Apprentices for Seven Years , which being expired , if they can get
Security , they are capable of Employments . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.90)

The Writers are obliged to serve Five Years for <font> l. per Ann.
</font> giving in Bond of <font> l. </font> for good Behaviour , all
which time they serve under some of the forementioned Offices : After
which they commence Factors , and rise to Preferment and Trust ,
according to Seniority or Favour , and therefore have a <font> l.
</font> Bond exacted from them , and have their Salary augmented to
<font> l. per Ann. </font> for Three Years , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.91)

then entring into new Indentures , are made Senior Factors ; and lastly
, Merchants after Three Years more ; out of whom are chose Chiefs of
Factories , as Places fall , and are allowed <font> l. per Ann. </font>
during their stay in the Company's service , besides Lodgings and
Victuals at the Company's Charges . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.92)

These in their several Seigniories behave themselves after the
Fundamentals of <font> Surat </font> , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.93)

and in their respective Factories live in the like Grandeur ; from
whence they rise successively to be of the Council in <font> Surat
</font> , which is the great Council ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.94)

and if the President do not contradict , <P_1,217> are Sworn ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.95)

and take their place accordingly , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.96)

which consists of about Five in Number , besides the President , to be
constantly Resident . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.97)

As for the Presidency , though the Company seldom interpose a deserving
Man , yet they keep that Power to themselves , none assuming that
Dignity till confirmed by them : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.98)

His Salary from the Company is <font> l. </font> a Year ; half paid
here , the other half reserved to be received at home , in case of
misdemeanour , to make satisfaction ; beside a Bond of <font> l.
Sterling </font> of good Securities . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.99)

The Accountant has 72 <font> l. per Annum </font> , Fifty Pound paid
here , the other at home : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.100)

All the rest are half paid here , half paid at home , except the
Writers , who have all paid here . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.101)

Out of the Council are elected the Deputy-Governor of <font> Bombaim
</font> , and Agent of <font> Persia </font> ; the first a Place of
great Trust , the other of Profit ; though , by the appointment from
the Company , the second of <font> India </font> claims <font> Bombaim
</font> , and the Secretary of <font> Surat </font> the Agency of
<font> Persia </font> , which is connived at , and made subject to the
Will of the President , by the Interest of those whose Lot they are ;
chusing rather to reside here , where Consignments compensate those
Emoluments ; so that none of the Council , if noted in <font> England
</font> , but makes considerably by his Place , after the rate of Five
in the Hundred , Commission ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.102)

and this is the <font> Jacob's </font> Ladder , by which they ascend .
(FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.103)

<P_2,200>

From <font> Bonaru </font> to <font> Mousar </font> , another
Eight-square <font> Caravan </font> , are Fifteen Miles , fine , plain
, and easy way ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,200.105)

near the <font> Caravan Ser Raw </font> was a pleasant Garden , the
utmost extent of the <font> Caun </font> of <font> Lhor's </font>
Dominions on this Road . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,200.106)

And as a Boundary thereto , is opposed the steepest Hill we have yet
met with , insomuch that we found it a notable Task to gain the Top by
the Morning of the following Day , contenting our selves to sit down at
<font> Chawtalk </font> , but Nine Miles from <font> Bonaru </font> ,
being advised of a more troublesome Day's Journy the <font> Munsel
</font> after this ; not so difficult for Access as this , but a more
continued Labour by the multitude of Mountains we were to Master ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,200.107)

<P_2,201>

and on that account it was highly necessary to Feed our <font>
Caphala's </font> well before we undertake so great a Work .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.109)

<font> Chawtalk </font> , <paren> by the most valuable Munificence of
the Benefactor , yet living to Oversee this good Deed compleated
</paren> is a noble new <font> Caravan </font> , an Ample and Princely
Building : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.110)

Near to it was , not long since , only a Well of Bitter Water , which
gives Name to the Place ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.111)

but by Cost and Inquest of this Pious Benefactor , Sweeter Waters are
at this time produced , something more remote , for Men to Drink ,
though the Cattel refuse not generally the other .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.112)

On these Mountains the <font> Mastich </font> Tree brings forth plenty
of that Gum , of which the Country People make good Profit :
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.113)

Nor does less Benefit accrue by the Mellifluous Dew a-Nights turn'd
into Manna , from the Leafs and Shrubs , as well as Plants , upon the
sides of these Mountains , which are not altogether so Barren as those
we have hitherto passed ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.114)

this Manna is White and Granulated , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.115)

and , what I have found my self , I think not inferior to the <font>
Calabrian </font> . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.116)

As for the Mastick Trees , they bore Red Berries ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.117)

and if wounded would spew out the liquid Resin from the Branches ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.118)

they are not very tall , of the bigness of our Bully Trees :
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.119)

Whether they bring forth a Cod or not , this <P_2,202> Season would not
inform me , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.120)

nor can I say it agrees in all respects with the Lentisk Tree of <font>
Clusius </font> . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.121)

Here also grows the Wild or Bitter Almond , the Wands or Sticks of
which are in Esteem , for that Tradition of their being of the same
Tree with those of <font> Aaron's </font> Rod which budding brought
forth Almonds , and for that reason are worn by those of the highest
Rank among them : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.122)

More of this anon . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.123)

And now the time approaches we must pass over in one Day as many
Mountains as we have hitherto been conquering , some of whose Clifts
could never be gained , had they not been joined together by vast
Arches from Rock to Rock , their dismal Pits otherwise being rendred
impassable : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.124)

Thus by inexpressible Endeavours we strive to clear this formidable
Chain of Hills , all in the Heat of the Sun <paren> not daring to trust
our selves in the Night </paren> , whereby we had our Skins flead off
of those Parts exposed to the Solar Rays ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.125)

and those that fared best had Bladders raised , as if scalded or burnt
by the Fire ; for which , when we had travell'd One and twenty Miles ,
we found at <font> Gerom </font> a ready Medicine of the Butter of the
Seed of Gourds made into an Ointment , which appeased the Inflammation
by its cooling Virtue , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.126)

and immediately asswaged the Pain by Basting our selves herewith ,
being half Roasted . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.127)

We refreshed our selves one entire Day at <font> Gerom </font> , where
a small White Grape , without any Stone , was an excellent Cordial ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.128)

the Wine pressed from it is white also , and the strongest by Natural
Fermentation only , that I ever drank ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.129)

they are called <font> Kismas </font> Grapes , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.130)

and the <P_2,203> Wine is known by the same Name farther than where
they grow , it being of so stout a Body that it is not subject to decay
presently ; though their best Wines when they begin to turn , are fit
for nothing but Vinegar , they being inexpert either in their Cure , or
to preserve them ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.131)

that which we drink is pure , without any Sophistication .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.132)

There grow no where better Dates than at this Town ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.133)

and packed up dry are preferred before others all the World over .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.134)

The People that dwell here are for the most part blind ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.135)

for of Three you meet , Two shall not see , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.136)

and it may be a Third shall have but half an Eye . The Occasion whereof
, as they report , is , because little pretty coloured Mice and Weasels
by their poysonous Stale infect the Trees so , that they produce Worms
, the Parent of this Distemper ; more truly fancying than proving this
Secret , for want of that Microscope whereby <font> Kepler </font>
assisted this enquiring Age to discover , That no kind of Plant
whatsoever but procreates of its superfluous juice some putrid Humour ,
which by active Nature is enliven'd into Vital Motion , forming to
every one their proper Insects . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.137)

Whether any Virulency may be ascribed to these , or the immoderate
eating of Dates ought to be accused of their excessive Heat , as we do
Wormwood , which for that reason we account offensive to the Eyes , I
know not ; following herein the Prince of Physicians , <font> Calidis
enim qui saepe multumque utuntur , nervorum infirmitatem adferunt ,
<P_2,204> in Aph. </font> 16. <font> Hyp. lib. </font> 5. who says ,
They who accustom themselves to eat Hot things , bring on themselves
the Weakness of the Nerves , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.138)

and consequently decay their Eyesight , the Optick Nerves being
signally affected , through which Organs , Spirits ought to be conveyed
principally for the service of the Eyes . To which Evil no doubt
Sympathy makes a great Addition , whether in the Individual , or in
respect of others : Wherein the Poet Philosophized , when he sang ,
<font> Cum spectant oculi laesos laeduntur & ipsi . </font>
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.139)

But above all , the Sands , which have here the same effect as
elsewhere . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.140)

This is a Free Town , enfranchis'd with Liberties peculiar to its self
, being independent on any other Governor but its own ; though he be
but a <font> Calenture </font> or Bayliff , giving Laws , and ruling by
his own Power , being accountable to none but the Emperor :
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.141)

His Jurisdiction spreads a great way , for that he is not inferior in
Wealth to many <font> Cauns </font> , only somewhat less in Dignity .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.142)

Mr. <font> Herbert </font> in his <font> Itinerary </font> relates
<font> Gerom </font> to have its denomination from certain <font> Jews
</font> who took up their Abode here , and gave it this Name in honour
of their <font> Kirjoth-Jerom </font> : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.143)

But whether more of that Nation dwell here than in other great Towns ,
I am not thoroughly advertised , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.144)

and therefore forbear determining . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.145)

A Mile from the Town had been a Coloss , now half ruined by Age ,
bearing still some Marks of its pristine Majesty , it being more than
Sixty Foot high , and Thirty in Circumference , raised in Memory of
some departed Saint ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.146)

it overlooks a great many more humble Tombs , not liable therefore to
such Dilapidation . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.147)

<P_2,205>

Leaving these , we pass through plough'd Fields , sowed with Wheat and
almost mowed , it being Harvest time . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.149)

In this Plain abundance of Liquorice grows wild ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.150)

and by the Brooks sides are planted Country Mansions , with store of
Sallows and Willows . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.151)

At Midnight we came to <font> Mocock Sugta </font> <paren> <font> i. e.
</font> a dry Clove </paren> Twenty two Miles , having forded several
Plashes where flourished lascivious Shrubs , more like <font>
Southernwood </font> than <font> Osiers </font> , till we were inclosed
in in the Mountains . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.152)

The <font> Rhadars </font> here had apprehended a sturdy Thief , who
had set upon a poor Merchant , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.153)

and drove away his Ass loaded with <font> Indian </font> Cloth :
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.154)

These sort of Vermin are rare , either for the exemplary Punishment
inflicted , which is Immuring , when detected , or for the former
mentioned Satisfaction to be made by the <font> Shawbunder </font> ,
who employs these <font> Rhadarees </font> , restoring to every one
their proper Goods , or else giving them the full Value .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.155)

I shall not deviate much to give a credible Instance from our Agent ,
who upon the Road by the Remissness of the <font> Shotters </font> had
his Gold Bridle and other Furniture stole out of a <font> Caravan Ser
Raw </font> , after they had come tired in . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.156)

As soon as they were missing , upon notice given to the Captain of the
<font> Rhadars </font> , a strict Search being made presently , it was
not long e're the Criminal was detected , and taken with his Prize ,
the latter restored , and the other left to the Mercy of the Agent ,
who might have cut him to pieces without any other Formality of Process
, had he not <P_2,206> delivered him over to be chastised by his
Accusers , who were not wanting to inflict what Punishment his Fact
deserved , the next <font> Caun </font> adjudging him the Severity of
the Law . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,206.157)

Here again over the Portal of the Inn , were advanced the Crests to the
<font> Persian </font> Arms , I mean huge Rams-heads , Horns and all ,
which declare what would seem monstrous to relate , they surpassing in
Bulk as well as Courage all those of other Nations ; not-4 for their
Heads alone , but their Tails , which sometimes prove such Incumbrances
, that unless small Carts were ordained for their Carriage <paren>
especially the tame ones </paren> , they would trail upon the Ground ,
and wound themselves against every sharp Stone and rough Piece of
Ground : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,206.158)

But these exalted are the Offspring of the Mountains , sheltring
themselves among the Rocks and untrodden Paths of the Hills . Where ,
and in our Passage , grew the Mountain- <font> Poly </font> , which
struck our Scent , till we descended a Fruitful Valley , abounding with
Springs of Water , which gave Increase to many Furlongs loaded with
Rice or <font> Paddy </font> , being courser than the <font> Indian
</font> ; from whence not only <font> Persia </font> , but all the
World besides , must fetch the best and finest Rice .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,206.159)

This Valley led us to <font> Caifer </font> , some Five <font>
Pharsangs </font> , a Village blest with all Fruits <font> Persia
</font> glories in , but above all , the choicest Oranges ;
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,206.160)

but this unseasonable Year , with the <P_2,207> help of the Locusts ,
had blasted them all . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.161)

This Town , as it terminates the Bounds of <font> Gerom </font> , so it
puts an end to the genuine Growth of the Palm-Tree , it being barren
beyond this Place , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.162)

and therefore only set in Great Mens Gardens for Shew , it delighting
rather in Hot and Dry Ground , such as Sands , and such as come nighest
in Nature to them : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.163)

Moreover , the Climate beyond this Place admits of too cold a Winter
for their Nourishment , which I impute to be the chiefest Cause .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.164)

This Town is planted in the Bosom of two Rows of Hills , reaching
<font> Siras </font> , which delivers us to a delightful Plain ,
adorned with Cypress-Trees on each hand , and plenteously stored with
Villages and Running Water on every side . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.165)

And now it was pleasant to behold the Harvest-men labouring with their
Sythes , the Wheat blading low ; the Ruther Beasts with distended Bags
grazing in the Meadows , the Sheep with their broad Tails gathered into
Folds , and the wary Shepherd on his Guard to defend them , as well as
to dress them when infected with any Maladies ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.166)

the Groves look'd Green , as in the midst of Summer's Pride , whose
Bowers the Winged Choristers made chearful with their unconfined Notes
, their Mirth as free as their Melody untaught , being actuated by no
other Rule than Instinct . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.167)

These gave us hopes of future Moderation ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.168)

nor were they flattering ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.169)

for we had not traced Ten Miles of this pleasant Way , when we came to
<font> Firaw </font> , <paren> <font> The Foot of the Way </font> ,
</paren> where <font> Aga Tocke </font> had placed a <font> Caravan Ser
Raw </font> ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.170)

but here we were forced to gather those Garments close <P_2,208> about
us , the wearing of which we hitherto rather thought an useless Decency
, than a real Requisite . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.171)

From hence to <font> Mussaferry </font> we toiled through rugged and
uneasy Ways to a very splendid <font> Caravan Ser Raw </font> , some
Fourteen Miles more , where we took our Rest : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.172)

And thence along a sweet Campaign , watred by a delicate Rivulet on the
Left , at the Bottom of the declining Hills , bestowing its Blessing on
the adjacent Villages and Country Towns . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.173)

We continued journying all this Night ; wherefore the Sun had gilded
the Firmament with his Vermilion Red , before we took up at <font>
Bobba Hodge </font> , Thirty Miles compleat from our last Stage . Where
intending to have been quiet , we were interrupted more than ever by
impertinent Gnats and Flies , by reason of the Concourse of Waters
nourishing abundance of Rushes and Fenny Plants , which harboured these
and gave them Refuge in the Day , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.174)

but at Night they broke out of their Lurking-Places ,
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.175)

and beset us with that Rage and Force , that no Resistance or Fence can
be made against them ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.176)

for , say they hyperbolically , They will bite through Armour ; the
best <font> Persian </font> Boots <paren> which are low-heel'd and good
Cordavan Leather </paren> being not Proof against their Assaults .
Wherefore the Eve to the same Day , to avoid these invincible
Assailants , the disturbers of our Repose , we held on our Pace through
Pasture-Grounds , such as our Commons , where they are down-fed , that
little more than <P_2,209> Green-Sod appears , in which were wanton
Foles and unback'd Colts , with Mares for Breed , and unbridled
Stallions , sporting on the spacious Downs , which brought us onwards
to <font> Siras </font> Twelve Miles more , <font> viz. </font> to the
<font> Beggars-Garden </font> <paren> but one <font> Pharsang </font>
short of the City </paren> called <font> Udgewally </font> .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.177)

Here we had scarcely alighted , but the <font> French </font> Agent
having notice of our coming , beat up our Quarters , and broke us of
our Sleep . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.178)

By Break of Day the <font> Armenian </font> Christians , which are
numerous , came to congratulate our Arrival , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.179)

and brought Banquets of Wine , Fruit , and a Cold Treat , with Led
Horses of State , and loud Musick , to make our Entry the more Pompous
. In order whereunto , about Eleven in the Morning , conducted with
much Ceremony , we approached <font> Siras </font> , where we found
Spectators answerable to the Novelty of our Appearance , and the
Greatness of our Train , with which we were passing through this City
nigh Two Hours , before we were enclos'd within the Walls of the <font>
English </font> House , which is a Noble one , in the middle of a
stately Garden . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.180)

Hither came the Fathers of all Orders to bid us Welcome , that were
resident in the several Convents allowed them in this City ; all which
, and other Christian Attendants , were not dismiss'd till after a
Splendid Dinner provided by our Interpreter , who makes some Thousands
a Year by the License of our Winepress , the Profit whereof is wholly
his . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.181)

The Wines of the Growth of this Country are esteemed the most
Stomachical and Generous in all <font> Persia </font> , and fittest for
common drinking , when allayed a little with Water , otherwise too
heady for the Brain , and heavy for <P_2,210> the Stomach , their
Passage being retarded for want of that proper Vehicle :
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.182)

It is incredible to see what Quantities they drink at a Merry-meeting ,
and how unconcerned the next day they appear , and brisk about their
Business , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.183)

and will quaff you thus a whole Week together . In which Exercise when
they engage , they observe this Maxim , Always to lay in Ballast , they
eating heartily ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.184)

and all the time that Healths are passing about , they have Cucumbers ,
Melons , and other Fruits before them , which must be acknowledged to
receive the most perfect Ripeness , and therefore are more innocent
here than any where else . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.185)

Tobacco is a general Companion ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.186)

and to give them their due , they are Conversable Good-Fellows ,
sparing no one his Bowl in their turn ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.187)

and to be sure none shall escape a Nosegay , Orange , or some such Mark
as passes with every Health ; so that sometimes when they mind
Discourse more than the Business in hand , a whole Nest of Posies wait
on one Man , who must clear himself , or disgust those whose Healths
remain unpledg'd . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.188)

Having discharg'd the Fatigue of this Day , it remained incumbent on
our parts to return these Civilities , which was to renew the Trouble
again , each striving to outvye others in their Entertainments :
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.189)

In these Courteous Visits we spent a Week , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.190)

nor was that sufficient , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.191)

but we being late in the Year for this Journey to <font> Spahaun
</font> , our Interpreter excused our Neglect . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.192)

<P_2,211>

<heading>

CHAP. IV . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.195)

<font> Of </font> Siras , <font> and the Ancient City </font>
Persepolis , <font> and our Journying quite through </font> Persia .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.196)

</heading>

In our Stay here we had Opportunity to observe <font> Siras </font> ,
not only by Fame , but indeed to be , second to none , except the Royal
City , in the whole Empire : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.198)

And in this Country , the Country which is properly <font> Persia
</font> <paren> extended from the Gulph to <font> Esduchos </font> ,
which parts <font> Parthia </font> from it by a great Ditch made for a
Boundary on that Side to this Ancient Kingdom </paren> it is the
principal Metropolis . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.199)

It is delivered as a Tradition , That it arose from the Ruins of <font>
Persepolis </font> : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.200)

Others will have it as old as <font> Cyrus , </font> who contend for
him to be the Founder , for that the nearness of the Name intimates as
much : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.201)

But that he should raise it as a Monument , seems not so probable , who
would not permit it at his Death , as that these People , devoted to
his Memory , might on the Miscarriage of <font> Persepolis </font> ,
raise this in Honour of him , whose Remembrance might at once revive
the Glory of the then fallen Monarchy , and bury the hated Name of the
new Conqueror in Oblivion , who had sullied all his Lawrels by
hearkning to the unlimited Revenge of a Prostitute , to lay the most
flourishing <font> Persepolis </font> in Ashes , from whence , <font>
Phoenix </font> like , this is supposed to spring .
(FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.202)

