<B CEHAND3B>
<Q E3 IS HANDO LANGF>
<N FRUIT TREES>
<A LANGFORD T>
<C E3>
<O 1640-1710>
<M X>
<K X>
<D ENGLISH>
<V PROSE>
<T HANDB OTHER>
<G X>
<F X>
<W WRITTEN>
<X MALE>
<Y X>
<H X>
<U NON-PROF>
<E X>
<J X>
<I X>
<Z INSTR SEC>
<S SAMPLE X>


[^LANGFORD, T.
PLAIN AND FULL INSTRUCTIONS TO RAISE ALL
SORTS OF FRUIT-TREES THAT PROSPER IN ENGLAND.
LONDON: R. CHISWELL, 1699.
PP. 29.1  - 42.9    (SAMPLE 1)
PP. 114.1 - 130.3   (SAMPLE 2)^]

<S SAMPLE 1>
<P 29>
[}CHAP. IV.}]

[}OF INOCULATING.}]

   (^Sect.^) 1. About a fortnight before
or after (^Midsummer^) (which is the
best time, though it may be done from
the beginning of (^May^) till (^August^) ) when
you have pitch'd upon such (^stocks^) as are
fit to be (^inoculated^) , choose out a strong
and (^well liking branch^) , or (^shoot^) of that
(^years growth^) upon a Tree that bears such
kind of (^fruit^) as you would by this operation
produce, and about the middle,
or lower end of it, (for the top will be
too tender) fix upon a (^leaf^) , that hath a
fresh and fair (^bud^) growing out betwixt
it and the bark, and about half an inch
below, and above the (^bud^) , cut off the
(^branch^) , and so you will have a piece of
it about an inch long remaining, with
a (^bud^) and a (^leaf^) on; this you must (^cleave^)
just through the midst, so as the (^bud^) may
be directly in the middle of the one half;
and then snip off a part of the (^leaf^) ,
or the whole leaving the stalk: and
holding it by the remainder, clap it to a
smooth place on the stock; and with a
<P 30>
Pen-knife score out, on each side of it,
so much of the stock as it covers, or rather
a little broader (because when the
(^bark^) on which the (^bud^) is, is taken off
from its own (^wood^) and applyed to the
stock, it will cover a wider space of the
stock than it did before;) after you have
thus marked your stock, with-draw the
Scion again, & cut the (^bark^) through where
you had marked it, then cut the (^bark cross^)
and (^straight^) , from the uppermost end of
one (^score^) to the upper end of the (^other^) ,
and cut the (^bark^) again (^cross^) and (^straight^) ,
from one (^score^) to the (^other^) , but not so
low as the lower ends of the (^scores^) by a
quarter of an inch, then take the oblong
square piece of (^bark^) , that is cut on
every side quite off the Stock, and raise
up that part of the bark that remains betwixt
the side (^scores^) , at the bottom of 
the work, from the (^wood^) , till you come
to the lower ends of the side (^scores^) .
   Take then a Goose-quill, cut in the
fashion of an (^Apple Scoop^) , or (^Scraper^) , and
having with your Nail a little loosened
the upper part of the (^bark^) that is on
the Scion, thrust the (^quill^) betwixt the
(^bark^) and the (^wood^) , holding it close to
the (^wood^) , that it may separate them, and
take off with the (^bark^) a little (^wood^) or
<P 31>
(^root^) of the (^bud^) over against it: If you
see a (^hole^) on the inside over against the
(^bud^) , when you have taken the bark off,
(which is seldom) cast it away, that little 
labour is lost, and try another till
you find it otherwise.
   Then put in the lower end of that
(^Bark^) or (^Scion^) betwixt the (^bark^) that was
raised on the Stock and the Wood, and
so bind it on the Stock gently with (^Woollen-yarn^) ,
or (^narrow shreds^) of (^Linen-cloth^) ,
or (^gentle Stuff^) , or with (^Basses^) , or (^Bast^) ,
of which the (^Russia Mats^) are made, but
so that the (^Scion^) may lie close to the (^wood^)
of the (^stock^) that was made bare, and
have a special care that you hurt not
the (^bud^) .
   (^Sect.^) 2. There are some other ways
of (^inoculating^) used, differing only in the 
manner of the cut both in the (^bark^) of
the Stock, and of the (^Scion^) .
   And first, some proceeding in all other
things as is before directed, cut the
Bark out of the whole length of the side
(^scores^) , and apply the (^Scion^) to the disbarked 
place.
   Secondly, Others cut one slit only,
down the bark of the (^Stock^) , and another
(^cross^) the top of it, like a great T:
when this is done, they prepare the
<P 32>
(^Scion^) or (^bark^) as before directed, (only
cutting it sharp pointed at the lower end
before they take the (^bud^) off its (^wood^) )
then raise the (^bark^) of the (^Stock^) up on
each side the (^slit^) , and put in the Scion,
beginning at the top and sliding it downward
gently, and so bind the bark gently
upon it. (^This is the common way used
among Gardiners.^)
   (^Thirdly^) , You may make the (^cross cut^)
in the middle of the downright (^score^) on
the Stock, and lifting up the four corners
of the (^bark^) , and making the Scion
sharp at both ends, put it under the bark
of the Stock at both ends, and then bind
it. But in doing this there is danger of
hurting the Scion.
   (^Fourthly^) , Mr. (^Rea^) commends the making
the (^cross cut^) at the lower end of the
(^down right cut^) , and having opened the
sides, put in the Scion upward, being
made sharp at the upper end only.
   Thus much to satisfie the curiosity of
such as have a mind to make tryal of
every way; but the first that I have described
at large, I take to be the best.
<P 33>
[}CHAP. V.}]

[}OBSERVATIONS TOUCHING INOCULATING.}]

   (^Sect.^) 1. Lest one (^bud^) fail, or any
mischance break it, put (^two^) in every
(^Stock^) , but not directly (^under^) one another,
on the same side of the (^stock^) :
The (^branch^) or (^shoot^) , you cut one (^Scion^)
off, may yield you several.
   About a (^month^) after the (^inoculating^) , or
sooner, if you perceive the (^bark^) swell
where the binding is, cut off the binding.
   If it grow it will fix to the (^Stock^) , keep
its colour, and that part of the (^leaf^) and
(^stalk^) that was left will drop off, and the
(^bud^) appear fair; then sometime before
the next spring cut off the (^top^) of the (^stock^)
a hands breadth above the place it was
(^inoculated^) at, and all the (^side-branches^) ,
that grow any where upon the (^Stock^) ;
and at Spring the (^bud^) will put forth, and
if any other (^sprouts^) of (^buds^) appear on
the (^stock^) , cut them off.
   If the first (^inoculation^) fail, or the (^buds^)
die, the (^stocks^) may be (^inoculated^) again
next Summer; and of such as are (^inoculated^)
<P 34>
timely in the year, it may be sometimes
seen whether they grow or not,
time enough to (^inoculate^) them again the
same year.
   (^Apricocks^) will have (^buds^) sooner ready 
than other fruit; so that you may begin
with them, and follow with other
kinds.
   (^Sect.^) 2. (^Stocks^) raised of (^Peach-stones^) are
commonly big enough to be (^inoculated^)
the (^second^) Summer, sometimes the (^first^)
after they are set; when they, or any
other (^Stocks^) are an (^inch^) and half in compass,
or thereabouts, they are big enough
to be (^inoculated^) .
   Those you intend for (^Wall^) , or (^Dwarf-trees^) ,
are to be (^inoculated^) within a (^handful^)
of the ground, and not Pruned at all
till you remove them, and then you will
better see what's necessary to be cut off:
And these you may remove after (^one^)
years growth, or (^two^) with more safety.
   If you (^inoculate^) any (^Plums^) , (^Cherries^) ,
(^Pears^) or other (^Fruit^) , that you intend
for an Orchard, or other place, for tall
standards, you may do it higher on the
(^stocks^) , and Prune these up in the (^Nursery^) ,
and let them grow there three or four
years (according as they grow in height)
before they be removed.
<P 35>
   After (^Stocks^) that are (^inoculated^) have
made (^one^) or (^two^) years growth, you must
cut off the head of the (^stock^) , that remain'd
above the (^bud^) at your first cutting
it: Cut it close to the new branch,
that it may grow over the cut; let it be
cut a little slope, and (^clay'd^) over, if you
desire the (^branch^) should quickly cover it,
and the sooner it doth the better.
   (^Sect.^) 3. Care must be had in choosing
(^branches^) , or (^shoots^) , from which you are
to have your (^buds^) , that are of strong
growth, the Bark firm, and not spungy;
suffer them to fade as little as may be,
before you use them; and if the fruit you 
design to raise, be at such a distance
that you cannot have (^buds^) to (^inoculate^)
the same day they are cut, put them in
wet (^Moss^) , or (^Grass^) in a Box, and so they
will keep a day and a night very well.
   (^Nectarines, Peaches^) , and (^Apricocks^) , are
seldom raised otherwise than by (^inoculation^) ;
I knew an (^Apricock graffed^) in the
(^cleft^) , as likely as might be to grow, but
failed; I have heard of one (^graffed^) in the
(^bark^) that grew.
   (^Cherries^) and (^Pears^) take very sure, being
on young fresh stocks whose bark
is not thick.
<P 36>
   The (^bark^) of (^Scions^) taken from
some (^Plums^) , is so tender and spungy,
they will often miscarry when (^inoculated^) ;
from such one would choose rather to
raise by Graffing; but most (^Plums^) will
hit very well being inoculated.
   (^Scions^) of (^Apples^) fails for the most part,
their Bark being tender, and (^buds weak^) ;
but to preserve kind of a dying (^Apple-tree^) ,
that I could not well cut a (^Scion^) to
Graff off, I have taken a hungry (^bud^) of
the year foregoing, and it hath taken,
and grown very well. 
   (^Pears^) and (^Apples^) succeed very well
(and the latter best) by taking a (^bud^)
from a shoot of the year foregoing to
inoculate with. The skill in finding (^buds^)
that are fit for it, which must be short
and not likely to make (^buds^) for (^blossoms^)
is the only difficulty. There is a considerable
advantage in it, (^viz.^) Being 
done in (^May^) or the beginning of (^June^) ,
and part of the head of the (^stock^) cut off,
the (^Bud^) of the shoots the same year, and
becomes so strong, that it makes a far
better growth the succeeding year, than
otherwise it would have done; neither
is such (^shoot^) liable to so many hurtful
casualties, as a (^bud^) is before the ensuing
spring. And lastly, if it should miscarry
<P 37>
(as it seldom doth) it will be perceived
by (^Midsummer^) , and the (^stock^) may
be (^enoculated^) again the same year.
   (^Sect.^) 4. Where (^inoculating^) succeeds
well, it is to be prefer'd before Graffing.
   1. Because the (^stock^) will be big enough
to (^inoculate^) sooner by two or
three (^years^) , than to graff, and your 
(^Plant^) groweth much faster, after the Nature
is so altered, than it did before, and 
will be sooner ready to (^Transplant^) , and
if it be suffered to grow (^two^) or (^three^)
years longer, as it must be before it will
be fit to be (^graffed^) .
   2. It makes a (^sounder Tree^) than one that 
is (^graffed^) , especially in the cleft; because
it covereth the (^Stock^) speedily and well.
   3. It (^hurts^) not the (^Stock^) so much as
(^graffing^) ; and if it chance to fail, it may
be (^inoculated^) next (^year^) again, and sometimes
the same (^year^) . 
   4. It's more (^speedy^) , (^easie^) , and (^delightful^)
than (^Graffing^) , and may be practis'd
by (^Gentlemen^) , who in (^June^) may lie on
the ground and do it; whereas they cannot
bear the cold without danger of taing
hurt, in (^February^) , or (^March^) , which
is the chief (^Graffing^) season.
<P 38>
   (^Sect.^) 5. It is debated among (^Planters^)
what (^time^) of the (^day^) is best for (^Inoculating^) :
I have heard an Ingenious person
argue for the morning; because there
passeth up much more (^sap^) , or (^juice^) ,
in the (^day^) time, than in the (^night^) ; as
was observed by him in piercing the
(^Birch tree^) , and other (^Trees^) , to get the
(^liquor^) , that distills out of them, for Physical
uses; and consequently the (^bud inoculated^)
in the morning, must be more
likely to grow, having the whole days
plenty of (^sap^) to invite it to unite with
the (^Stock^) , than if it be (^inoculated^) late in
the day, and so must be discouraged in
its new habitation, by the niggardly
provision of the nights Sap. If you follow
this advice, you had best wrap some
broad (^leaves^) , or (^Fearn^) , about the (^stock^) ,
so as to shade the Scion from the scorching
heat of the day following, to prevent
its drying before the (^Stock^) hath undertaken
the charge of preserving it.
   But this work may be done in the
middle of the day, if the heat be not
(^violent^) , and then you must (as at all
times you ought) be very quick in the 
doing of it.
<P 39>
   And for all that hath been said before,
the afternoon may be as good a time as
any; because if the (^bud^) have less (^liquor^)
afforded it in the night, then the coolness
of that time makes it less thirsty; and
as its thirst encreaseth by the heath of the
next day, a more plentiful stream will
be very seasonable to satisfie it.

[}CHAP. VI.}]

[}OF THE SEVERAL WAYS OF GRAFFING.}]

   (^Sect.^) 1. As there are several ways
(as you have seen) of (^inoculating^) ,
so are there of Graffing, as now I come
to let you see; and the first I shall speak
of is that which is called (^Slicing^) , or (^Packing^) ,
which I shall describe here at large,
and so it will serve in part, as a general
direction for all.
   Cut off the (^top^) of your (^Stock^) in some
smooth straight place; if you do it with
a (^Hand-saw^) , cut it smooth afterward
with your (^Knife^) , leaving the top flat
and even.
<P 40>
   Then prepare your (^Scion^) or (^Graff^) , by
cutting it on one side, from the (^joint^) , or
(^seam^) , (that is, at every years growth)
down slope-wise in the (^old wood^) , till it's
cut quite off, that the slope may be about
an inch long, or something more, observing
its bent, that when the (^Scion^) is
fixed to the (^Stock^) it may stand almost
upright; give a cut then cross through
the (^bark^) at the top of the slope, and then
cut a thin (^chip^) of the (^slope^)  upward to
the (^cross-cut^) , that there may be a (^shoulder^)
to rest on the top of the (^Stock^) , but
cut not this (^shoulder^) too deep, little more
than through the (^bark^) will be enough,
and this will cause a little rising in the 
sloped part, which you must cut down,
that the whole (^slope^) may be plain and
smooth, without dints or risings, and
lie even to the side of the (^Stock^) .
   Cut then the top of the Scion off, close
about a (^bud^) , about four inches above the
(^shoulder^) if it be for a (^standard^) Tree, two
(^buds^) above the clay being full enough;
but for (^Dwarf^) , or (^Wall-trees^) , you may
let the (^Scion^) be six inches long with several
(^buds^) that they may shoot forth many
branches, and spread from the very
Stock.
<P 41>
   The (^Scion^) or (^Graff^) thus prepared; lay
the cut part of the (^Scion^) on the (^West^) , or
(^South-west^) side of the Stock, and so measure
and mark the breadth and length
of it, then cut away so much of the bark
of the stock, as the cut part of the Scion
may fit, drawing your Knife upward;
but as the (^stock^) , is bigger, and the bark
thicker than that on the Scion, so the
(^chip^) must be longer, and broader, or
else the passage for the (^sap^) in the (^stock^)
and Scion, (which is chiefly betwixt the
(^bark^) and the (^wood^) ) will not meet together
(as in the work you will easily see)
which should be aimed at.
   Then lay the cut part of the Scion on
the cut part of the Stock, and bind it
on with course (^Woollen-yarn^) , (^Basses^) , or
the inward peeling of the (^Witch-tree^) ;
if you bind with such a material as will
not be loose, or rotten by Midsummer,
about that time give it a cut cross-wise
with a Knife to set the Prisoners at liberty.
   Have in readiness good (^Clay^) , free from
Stones, mixt with long Hay, and daub it
about the Stock and Scion, a full inch above
and below the head of the Stock,
work it up round the Scion till it be sharp
at the top, that the rain water may run 
<P 42>
down it; and with a Knife or little
(^trowel^) dipt in water smooth over the
clay; in doing this be sure not to displace
the Scion.
   Thus you may Graff (^Pears^) , (^Plums^) ,
(^Cherries^) , and (^Apples^) , if it be before the
(^bark^) of the Stock will part from the wood 
of them, for when it will, the next way
following is better.

<S SAMPLE 2>
<P 114>
[}CHAP. XII.}]

[}OF THE ANNOYANCES ABOUT FRUIT-TREES, AND OF
SOME MISTAKES IN PLANTING AND ORDERING
THEM.}]

   (^Sect^) 1. The nature of the soil is
the chief cause of (^Moss^) and (^Canker^) ,
and therefore without altering the (^one^)
you can scarce prevent the other; However
you may scrape or with a (^hair-cloth^)
rub the (^moss^) off, after rain, or (as some
say) burn it with a bottle of straw under
the Tree.
   All (^Canker^) , (^filth^) , and (^worms^) must be
picked clean off, and bind some clay well
mixt with (^hay^) about the (^canker'd^) place:
If the Tree grow but poorly, which is
for the most part caused by the ill temper
of the (^soil^) , open the ground about,
the (^roots^) , and put in some (^manure^) proper
to cure it.
   (^Slitting^) the (^bark^) is an excellent additional
help to most of the foresaid evils,
and also for (^bark-binding^) , some advice that
the (^bark^) be cut according to the (^grain^) of
it, as in (^Apple-trees^) , (^Pear-trees^) , &c. (^straight^)
down; in (^Cherries^) , &c. (^round^) about the 
Trees.
<P 115>
   But I have found in the same land,
some kinds of (^Fruit-trees^) very subject to
some of these (^evils^) ; and others prosper
very well; when once you discover this,
(because it's utterly in vain to make
ground and trees, of different (^genius^) agree
together) you must make it your
business by degrees, to change your Trees,
till you have left none against which
your (^soil^) beareth such an implacable hatred,
and furnish it with such as will
flourish, and be fruitful.
   If any of your Trees are (^galled^) , by being
bound to (^stakes^) , or by (^thorns^) , or otherwise,
lay some (^clay^) upon the gall'd place
and wrap (^hay-bands^) about them.
   Big (^Plants^) also, that upon their removal
have had their tops cut off, are apt to
die from the place they were cut off at,
to the next (^sprig^) , or (^branch^) upon them;
these dead parts ought to be cut off close
to the next good (^twig^) or (^shoot^) , and covered
with (^clay^) , as in (^graffing^) , that the head
may be well grown over, by such (^twig^)
or (^shoot^) , and the wet prevented of getting
into the (^pith^) , to damage the Tree.
   (^Sect.^) 2. (^Hares^) and (^Rabbets^) are very
mischievous to (^Nurseries^) , and young
(^Orchards^) , by (^peeling^) off the (^bark^) of the
(^Plants^) : If your fence be a wall, or close 
<P 116>
pale, or water, there's little danger of
them; but because such fences about
(^Orchards^) are rare, and no other can keep
them out, some expedient must be made
use of.
   Some have used (^Hay-ropes^) , bound about
the Tree, from the ground to a
sufficient height; but this were endless
in a (^Nursery^) , it may be done in an (^Orchard^) ;
but there are other ways to be
preferred before it.
   Others therefore (^dawb^) the bodies of
the trees over with (^Tar^) , which being
used alone, endangers the life of very
young (^Plants^) , and extreamly hardens
the (^bark^) , and otherwise hurts them,
which evil is prevented by mixing the
(^Tar^) with any kind of Grease, and boiling
them on a fire, so as both may incorporate,
then with a brush, or little
broom, daub over the body of the Tree,
as high as (^Hare^) or (^Rabbet^) can reach; and
if this be done in (^November^) , it will preserve
the (^Trees^) for that whole year,
with that once doing, it being the (^winter
time^) only that they will feed upon the
(^bark^) .
   Some use Grease alone, and then it
may require to be laid on (^twice^) in a 
Winter.
<P 117>
   Some thin stuff out of a (^House of Office^) ,
or the thick tempered with Water, and
brush'd on once in a Winter hath been
often used with good success. Or the
(^White-wash^) which Plasterers white Houses
with, done once a Year over the Trees
with a Brush, preserves them from (^Hares^) ,
(^Rabbits^) , or (^Deer^) .
   (^Sect.^) 3. If you find (^Pismires^) or (^Ants^)
breed about, or near the (^roots^) of any of
your Trees, cast away the Earth they
lodge in, and supply its place with some
(^stiff clay^) ; if they breed distant in several
places, some direct to daub the Tree about
with (^Tar^) , that their Feet may be
taken in it; but you heard already that's
prejudicial to young Trees; but if they
pester you extreamly, and your Tree be
young, you may bind a single (^list^) , or
(^shread^) of (^Cloth^) about it, and once a week
(when (^Buds^) and (^Blossoms^) are putting
forth, for that is the chief time they
prejudice them) (^daub^) the (^Cloth^) over with
(^Tar^) .
   (^Sect.^) 4. (^Moles^) are to be kill'd, especially 
in Seed-plots and Nurseries; Spring-traps; 
or Box-traps are best to destroy
them, not easily describ'd, but are now
known almost generally.
<P 118>
   I have heard that (^Water Rats^) will spoil
a whole (^Nursery^) , getting through (^Moleholes^) ;
and barking or eating the young
(^Roots^) : I found several Roots so served;
and it being near a (^Fish-pond^) , I suspected
it was done by them; but finding also
a (^Snake^) in a hole among the Roots, I
knew not whether that might not be the
Enemy.
   (^Ests^) , or (as some call them) (^Askers^) ,
are also said to be pernicious to Trees;
but these three last accidents are so rare
and inconsiderable, that it's needless to labour
much about Remedies against them,
only as men find them to destroy them.
   (^Sect.^) 5. The greatest prejudice to (^fruit^) ,
is by (^blastings^) , (^frosts^) immediately succeeding
rain, (^Caterpillars^) , or (^black Flies^) ,
that eat up (^buds^) , (^leaves^) , and (^blossoms^) :
There's one way used to help in all these
cases, for (^Orchard-fruit^) ; but I know not
how it should be useful for any but the
last two, for which I dare commend it.
And that is, that when in the Spring
you perceive these (^Caterpillars^) , or (^Flies^)
appear, make fires of something that
will smoak, so near the (^Orchard^) , and in
such places that the wind may carry the
(^smoak^) as much through the Trees as may 
be. A thing frequently used is (^Hempsheaves^) ,
<P 119>
(as it's called) being the stalk
of the (^Hemp^) , when the (^tow^) is separated
from it, and its certainly very good;
but bad (^Chaff^) ; (^wet straw^) , or (^moldy Hay^) , or
any thing of that nature may serve turn.
   (^Snails^) are pernicious to (^Wall-fruit^) ,
therefore destroy as many of them as
you can, when they are best to be
discovered, which is early in the morning.
   And to preserve your (^Wall-fruit^) from
(^blasting winds^) and (^Frosts^) ; it will be necessary
to cover them in the nights, and
cold days by hanging before them (^Matts^)
or (^Blankets^) : some stick (^branches^) of (^broom^)
before the (^blossoms^) and young tender
(^fruit^) .
   To preserve (^ripe fruit^) from (^birds^) , spread
an old (^Net^) , before the (^Wall-fruit^) , or upon 
the (^Dwarf-trees^) .
   (^Sect.^) 6. I have endeavour'd to direct
the Reader by true Rules, which if observed,
he would not fall into those
vulgar Errors which are frequent in practice;
but because for want of warning, 
some people may continue in them,
thinking they have a further knowledge
or better Judgment, I shall endeavour to
refute those I have most taken notice
off in use.
<P 120>
   1. Some set (^Trees^) too deep, and plead
for it, that otherwise the Tree may be
in danger of dying, if the next Summer
prove very hot: But to prevent
that hazard it's better to raise Earth about
it, and cover it with Dung, Fearn,
or Straw, and in the Summer with the
Grass mowed from Grass-plots, and
set it not too deep whereby the Tree
may put forth its Roots in the upper
Turf, which is generally the best
Land in all Ground. For in some Land
a deep hole will draw in Water in the
Winter, which standing under and about
the Roots, may chill and starve
them; other Lands in the bottom are
(^Rocky^) , have a (^Fox-bent^) , (^Cat-brain^) , or
(^stiff Clay^) , and (^binding Gravel^) , unfit for
Trees to root in, and yet may have
that depth of Earth above it, that some
(^Fruit-trees^) being set light, may prosper
reasonably well.
   2. Others for curiosity use graffing several
kinds of Fruit on one Stock, which
hath often this Evil, that the one kind
(being of swifter growth than the other)
overtops and keeps under its fellow.
But if a Man have a few Trees
in a secure place, he may graff two or
three sorts on one Head of choice Summer
<P 121>
Fruit, whereof he is content with a
little Fruit of each kind of eating only;
and by pruning he may make them grow
somewhat equal.
   3. Some out of curiosity (instead of
(^Clay^) ) when they graff (^Trees^) , cover the
Heads of the Stocks with (^Lime^) mix'd
with Hair; others with (^Bees-wax^) or
some such things compounded; the first
of which groweth so hard that the Stock
cannot grow to cover, nor the (^Scion^) enlarge
it self as it would, and the Lime
kills often Stock and all, as will salt Clay,
such as is used on Drinking-Vessels; the
latter is either melted by the heat of the
Sun in Summer, and runs off the Stock,
and being thin, the heat of the Sun
hardens the Sap which the Stock puts
up to a Crust, that it groweth not to
bark or wood, as it should do; and
if it be compounded of so hard a substance
that it melteth not, it hath the
like effect as the Lime: So that upon
tryal, there is nothing better than good
Clay mix'd with long Hay; and laid on
somewhat thick, for that keeps it from
the heat of the Sun, as well as too much
wet, and with Hay it will keep on much
longer than otherwise.
<P 122>
   4. Many neglect keeping the Heads
of Stocks clay'd after the first time when
they are graffed, but it's very necessary
to do it till the Stock be near covered,
for it hastens it in covering, whereby
the (^Scions^) grow faster, and wet is prevented
from the perishing the Stock.
   5. Another Evil is, when Men set
well grown Trees, that they must cut
off the Head where it may be an inch
over; they consider not to cut it at a
Branch, and so the top often dieth a
little at the Head; whereas if they did
cut it off a little sloap at a Branch or small
Sprig, and put Clay thereon, as in graffing,
that Branch would cover the top,
and keep the Heart sound. If you do
it not at the setting of the Tree, then
the Year after, when it hath put forth
Branches, cut off the top sloap-wise,
where it is alive, at the uppermost Branch
you would preserve, and then clay it:
You will find advantage in the growth
of the top and soundness of the body of
the Tree.
   6. In pruning big Branches of any
Tree, do it in (^March^) , and cut it not
so close to the Body as to hurt it, nor 
yet so long that it be a Stump, but leave
it highest in the middle, for then it will
<P 123>
not have so deep a hole in its growing
to cover, which otherwise it's apt
to have, and to hold the wet. This pruning
can be no ways so well done as 
with such a broad Chissel as I have described.
   7. The first Summer after you have
set a Tree, some let Shoots grow out
near the Butt, and in several places on
the Body, though so low that they never
intend they shall continue. These
had best be cut off at the first springing
out, that they rob not the top of
Sap.
   If you have any high Standards,
such as are proper to be planted in
Fields, or Forest Trees in Avenues, it
will be necessary to have such another
Chissel; but instead of an Iron handle let
it be made with a Socket, which fix
on a Staff about two or three yards long,
and let it have Edges likewise on the
lower part on each side the Socket;
with this you may, as you walk about
your Trees, cut off such young Shoots
as grow out of the hands reach, and yet
such as you would not have continue,
first cutting them upwards, and then
with the other Edge cutting downwards
the little Tippet left on the upper
<P 124>
side, that it be smooth, and even to
the Body.
   8. I have known some Country Gardiners
in pruning Wall-Fruit-trees yearly
cut off the young Shoots or Branches
that grew side-ward, as well as outward,
from the Elder-wood, and leave the
Wall almost bare; whereas it's those
young Shoots chiefly that bear Fruit
the Year following: And therefore the 
better to inform the Reader in Pruning,
it will be necessary to shew what Years
Branches bear Fruit in each kind, or in
the most common sort of Fruit-trees.
   1. (^Vines^) and (^Shrubs^) , as (^Gooseberries^) ,
(^Currans^) , &c. bear Fruit for the most
part on the Branches they put forth
the same Year, so that in pruning these
you may cut off much of the (^Shoots^) of
the foregoing Year, and old (^Wood^) , as
you see occasion, and there will be the
more Sap to put forth fresh ones the Year
after, provided you leave plenty of
Buds for them to put forth at, and
with this Caution, that such as grow very
luxurious in Wood are not apt to bear,
and there the more you cut off, the
more they will run into the same Evil.
<P 125>
   2. (^Stone Fruit-trees^) , generally bear
on the (^Branches^) of the foregoing Year,
therefore leave a sufficient number of
them.
   3. (^Apple^) and (^Pear-trees^) bear Fruit on
the (^Branches^) that are of two years growth
before the bearing year.
   And thus you shall find it for the most
part; and although (^Fruit^) may often in
all these sorts seem to be on older Wood
than I mention, yet if you search into
it you will find (where it seems so)
that it grows on some sort short Stalk put
forth as near (as can be judged) as I
have set it down.
   You will therefore find it often necessary
to practice the direction formerly
given in this Book of taking off some of
the old Wood of Trees, (^Chap. 8. Sect. 7.^)
And when your Trees are young let 
them not fill the Wall so thick as many
Trees are apt to do, otherwise you 
will find many will not bear well young,
and when they grow bigger you must
cut them thinner, which will be worse
for the Tree.
   Another Evil is common in suffering
too much Fruit to grow upon Trees
(especially Wall-Trees) wherefore if it
be so, pluck off some where they stand
<P 126>
in Clusters, Green (^Apricocks^) will serve
for Tarts. 
   These foregoing Observations may
seem trivial and of small concern; but
you will find a due observation of them
will conduce much to the health and
welfare of your Trees and Fruit.

[}CHAP. XIII.}]

[}SOME PARTICULAR RULES ABOUT SOME
KINDS OF FRUIT-TREES BESIDES THE
GENERAL RULES ALREADY MENTIONED.}]

   (^Sect.^) 1. (^Grapes^) seldom or never ripen
well in this (^Isle.^) without help
of Art and Industry, to which purpose
take these directions.
   1. To (^plant^) such as ripen soonest in
the Year, that they may have as much of
the (^summer^) heat at (^ripening time^) as may
be.
   2. Let the Wall you plant them against
be a full (^South^) , or but a little inclining
to the (^East^) ; or if you have a (^half-round^) , 
or corner in a Wall, or the back of
<P 127>
a brick Chimney, make use of such places
for them.
   (^Vines^) will prosper well against a high
Wall, yet that is not altogether so necessary
but that low Walls may serve turn,
and the higher may be reserved for such
(^Fruit-trees^) as will not do well without
them: That of a (^Tarras-walk^) may do
well for (^Vines^) , and the (^Gravel-walk^) under
the (^Wall^) will mightily encrease the
heat about them.
   If you plant any (^Trees^) against your
(^Dwelling-house wall^) , there may be some
narrow places between two Windows,
or the like, where other (^Fruit-trees^) have
not room to spread: A Vine may grow
up there, and above those narrow places
enlarge it self where ever it meets with
room.
   You may also plant a (^Vine^) betwixt every
(^fruit-tree^) that groweth against your
(^hottest walls^) , and let it spread a little in
the (^Summer^) time into the (^Fruit-trees^) on
either side especially if the (^fruit^) of such
Trees use to be early ripe, or that they
bear little Fruit, or have not been so
long set as to have covered the Wall.
And though such (^Vines^) cannot extend
themselves to that bigness, as those
planted where they have more room;
<P 128>
yet by this means you will make advantage
of such portions of your Wall, 
as otherwise you could have had little benefit 
from.
   (^Sect.^) 2. The best ground for them is
that which is (^rich^) and (^dry^) , inclinable to
(^stony^) or (^gravel^) , so it bind not; the best
Dung to fatten the Earth they grow in is
Horse or Sheeps-dung: Make bare the
(^Roots^) in the beginning of Winter, and
throw in plenty of the same Dung most
Winters.
   The best way of propagating of them
is, in (^November^) to lay a Branch of that
Years growth into the Earth, under the
old Tree, without cutting it off, lay as
many (^joynts^) or (^buds^) in the Farth as you
can, leaving but one or two out; for it
puts forth its (^roots^) chiefly at the (^joynts^)
at a Years end, or in the (^February come
twelve month^) , cut it off from the old
one, and plant it where you design it
should grow; lay it in the Earth in the
same posture it lay in before, and also
lay some of the (^Buds^) of the (^new wood^) ,
that grew out since it was first laid down,
that it may gain the more (^Roots^) , leaving
out of the ground again not above one
or (^two buds^) .
<P 129>
   You may chance to have Suckers
of an old Vine which will be sure to
grow.
   Or you may take (^Cuttings^) of (^Vine-branches^)
of that Years growth, and set
them in good (^warm loose^) Land, and many
will grow; if it be in the place you intend
they shall always stand in, next
(^year^) lay down a part of that which hath
grown out, to root also, or else upon
removal lay in the new growth all but
a (^bud^) or two, with that part which is already
rooted: If it have made but small
growth the first (^year^) , lay part of the
second (^years^) growth in the ground, it
will more advantage them by helping
them to good (^roots^) , than the loss of a
(^year^) or two's growth in the top will amount
to.
   If you have an old (^Vine^) , that beareth
not well, lay down in (^February^) , or 
(^March^) some of the strongest (^branches^) of
the foregoing (^year^) , (that grow low) in
the (^mold^) under the old Tree, without
cutting them off, leaving out of the
ground a (^bud^) or two to grow, and your
(^wall^) will quickly be furnished with new,
and fresh (^branches^) ; so that by degrees
you may cut off many of the old (^branches^)
of the Vine; for though one Vine may 
<P 130>
cover abundance of walling, yet three or
four (^roots^) in that compass will strengthen
it the more to bear.



