<B CETRAV2A>
<Q E2 NN TRAV JOTAYLOR>
<N PENNILESS PILGRIMAGE>
<A TAYLOR JOHN>
<C E2>
<O 1570-1640>
<M X>
<K X>
<D ENGLISH>
<V PROSE>
<T TRAVELOGUE>
<G X>
<F X>
<W WRITTEN>
<X MALE>
<Y 20-40>
<H OTHER>
<U X>
<E X>
<J X>
<I X>
<Z NARR NON-IMAG>
<S SAMPLE X>


[^TAYLOR, JOHN.
TEXT:  THE PENNYLES PILGRIMAGE.
ALL THE WORKES OF JOHN TAYLOR
THE WATER POET, 1630.
WITH AN INTRODUCTORY NOTE BY
V. E. NEUBURG (FACSIMILE).
LONDON: THE SCOLAR PRESS, 1977.
PP. 128.C1.45 - 133.C1.29     (SAMPLE 1)
PP. 133.C2.27 - 136.C1.47     (SAMPLE 2)
PP. 136.C2.29 - 140.C2.35     (SAMPLE 3)^]

<S SAMPLE 1>
<P 128.C1>
   To the purpose then: my first nights lodging
in (^Scotland^) was at a place called (^Mophot^) ,
which they say, is thirty miles from (^Carlile^) ,
but I suppose them to be longer then forty of
such miles as are betwixt (^London^) and Saint (^Albanes^) ,
but indeed the Scots doe allow almost
as large measure of their miles, as they
doe of their drinke, for an English Gallon either
of Ale or Wine, is but their quart, and
<P 128.C2>
one Scottish mile (now and then, may well 
stand for a mile and a halfe or two English)
but howsoeuer short or long, I found that
dayes iourney the weariest that euer I footed,
and at night being come to the Towne, I
found good ordinary Countrey entertainment;
my fare and my lodging was sweet and
good, and might haue serued a farre better
man then my selfe, although my selfe haue had
many times better: but this is to be noted, that
though it rained not all the day, yet it was my
fortune to be well wet twise, for (^I^) waded ouer
a great riuer called (^Eske^) in the morning, somewhat
more then foure miles distance from (^Carlile^) 
in (^England^) , and at night within two miles
of my lodging, I was faine to wade ouer the
Riuer of (^Annan^) in (^Scotland^) , from which Riuer
the County of (^Annandale^) , hath it's name. And
whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted
on horse-backe, like the (^George^) without the
Dragon. But the next morning, I arose and
left (^Mophot^) behind me, and that day I traueled
twenty one miles to a sory Village called
(^Blithe^) , but I was blithe my selfe to come to
any place of harbour or succour, for since I
was borne, I neuer was so weary, or so neere
being dead with extreme trauell; I was founderd
and refounderd of all foure, and for my
better comfort, I came so late, that I must
lodge without doores all night, or else in a
poore house where the good-wife lay in
Child-bed, her husband being from home,
her owne seruant mayde being her nurse. A
Creature naturally compacted, and artificially
adorned with an incomparable homelines;
but as things were I must either take or leaue,
and necessity made mee enter, where we gat
Egges and Ale by measure and by tale. At
last to bed I went, my man lying on the floore
by mee, where in the night there were Pidgeons
did very bountifully mute in his face:
the day being no sooner come, and hauing
but fifteene miles to (^Edenborough^) , mounted
vpon my ten toes, and began first to hobble,
and after to amble, and so being warme, I fell
to pace by degrees; all the way passing thorow
a fertill Countrey for Corne and Cattle:
and about two of the clocke in the afternoone
<P 129.C1>
that Wednesday, being the thirteenth of
August, and the day of (^Clare^) the Virgin (the
signe being in (^Virgo^) ) the Moone foure dayes
old, the wind at West, I came to take rest, at
the wished, long expected, ancient famous
City of (^Edenborough^) , which I entred like Pierce
pennilesse, altogether monyles, but I thanke
God, not friendlesse; for being there, for the
time of my stay, I might borrow, (if any man
would lend) spend it I could get, begge if I
had the impudence, and steale, if I durst aduenture 
the price of a hanging, but my purpose
was to house my horse, and to suffer him
and my apparell to lye in durance, or Lauender
in stead of Litter, till such time as I could
meete with some valiant friend, that would
desperately disburse.
   Walking thus downe the street, (my body
being tyred with trauell, and my minde attyred
with moody, muddy, Moore ditch melancholly)
my Contemplation did deuoutly
pray, that I might meete one or other to prey
vpon, being willing to take any slender acquaintance
of any map whatsoeuer, viewing,
and circumviewing euery mans face I met, as
if I meant to drawe his picture, but all my acquaintance
was (\Non est Inuentus\) , (pardon me
Reader, that Latine is none of mine owne, I
sweare by (^Priscians Paricranion^) , an oath which
I haue ignorantly broken many times.) At last
I resolu'd, that the next Gentleman that I met
withall, should be acquaintance whether hee
would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes
vpon a Gentleman-like obiect, I looked on
him, as if I would suruay something through
him, and make him my perspectiue: and hee
much musing at my gazing, and I much gazing
at his musing, at last he crost the way and
made toward me, and then I made downe
the street from him, leauing to encounter
with my man, who came after me leading my
horse, whom he thus accosted. My friend
(quoth he) doth yonder Gentleman, (meaning
me) know me, that he lookes so wistly on
me? Truely Sir, said my man, I thinke not,
but my Master is a stranger come from (^London^) ,
and would gladly meete some acquaintance
to direct him where he may haue lodging and
<P 129.C2>
horse-meate. Presently the Gentleman, (being
of a generous disposition) ouer-tooke me with
vnexpected and vndeserued courtesie, brought
me to a lodging, and caused my horse to bee
put into his owne stable, whilest we discoursing 
ouer a pinte of Spanish, I related as much
English to him, as made him lend me tenne
shillings, (his name was Master (^Iohn Maxwell^) )
which money I am sure was the first that I handled 
after I came from out the walls of (^London^) :
but hauing rested two houres and refreshed
my selfe, the Gentleman and I walked to see
the City and the Castle, which as my poore
vnable and vnworthy pen can, I will truly describe.
   The Castle on a loftie Rocke is so strongly
grounded, bounded, and founded, that by
force of man it can neuer be confounded; the
Foundation and Walls are vnpenetrable, the
Rampiers impregnable, the Bulwarkes inuincible,
no way but one to it is or can be possible
to be made passable. In a word, I haue seene
many Straights and Fortresses, in (^Germany^) , the
(^Netherlands^) , (^Spaine^) , and (^England^) , but they must
all giue place to this vnconquered Castle,
both for strength and scituation.
   Amongst the many memorable things which
I was shewed there, I noted especially a great
peece of Ordnance of Iron, it is not for batterie,
but it will serue to defend a breach, or to
tosse balles of wilde-fire against any that
should assaile or assault the Castle; it lyes now
dismonted. And it is so great within, that it
was told me that a Childe was once gotten
there: but I, to make tryall crept into it, lying
on my backe, and I am sure there was roome
enough and spare for a greater then my selfe.
   So leauing the Castle, as it is both defensiue
against any opposition, and magnificke
for lodging and receite, I descended lower to
the City, wherein I obserued the fairest and
goodliest streete that euer mine eyes beheld,
for I did neuer see or heare of a street of that
length, (which is halfe an English mile from
the Castle to a faire Port which they call the
(^Neather-bow^) ) and from that Port, the streete 
which they call the (^Kenny-hate^) is one quarter of
a mile more, downe to the Kings Palace, called
<P 130.C1>
(^Holy-rood-House^) , the buildings on each side
of the way being all of squared stone, fiue, six,
and seuen stories high, and many by-Lanes
and Closes on each side of the way, wherein
are Gentlemens houses, much fairer then the
buildings in the high-street, for in the high-street
the Marchants and Tradesmen do dwell,
but the Gentlemens mansions and goodliest
houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid
Lanes: the Walles are eight or tenne foote
thicke, exceeding strong, not built for a day,
a weeke, or a moneth, or a yeere; but from
Antiquitie to Posteritie, for many Ages;
There I found entertainement beyond my expectation
or merit, and there is fish, flesh,
bread and fruit, in such variety, that I thinke
I may offencelesse call it superfluity, or faciety.
The worst was, that Wine and Ale was so
scarce, and the people there such Mizers of it,
that euery night before I went to bed, if any
man had asked me a ciuill question, all the
wit in my head could not haue made him a sober
answer.
   I was at his Maiestis Palace, a stately and
Princely seate, wherein I saw a sumptuous
Chappell, most richly adorned with all appurtenances
belonging to so sacred a place, or so
Royall an owner. In the inner Court, I saw the
Kings Armes cunningly carued in stone, and
fixed ouer a doore aloft on the wall, the red
Lyon being the Crest, ouer which was written
this inscription in Latine,
(\Nobis haec inuicta miserunt, 106. proaui.\)
I enquired what the English of it was? it was
told me as followeth, which I thought worthy
to be recorded.
(^106. Fore-fathers haue left this to vs                        #
vnconquered.^) [^EDITION: vnchnquered^] 
This is a worthy and memorable Motto, and I
thinke few Kingdomes or none in the world
can truly write the like, that notwithstanding
so many inroades, incursions, attemps, assaults,
Ciuill warres, and forraigne hostilities,
bloody battels, and mighty foughten
fields, that maugre the strength and policy of
enemies, that Royall Crowne and Scepter 
hath from one hundred and seuen descents,
kept still vnconquered, and by the power of
the King of Kings (through the grace of the
<P 130.C2>
Prince of peace) is now left peacefully to our
peacefull King, whom long in blessed peace,
the God of peace defend and gouerne.
   But once more, a word or two of (^Edenborough^) ,
although I haue scarcely giuent it that
due which belongs vnto it, for their lofty and
stately buildings, and for their faire and spacious
streete, yet my minde perswades me that
they in former ages that first founded that Citie
did not so well in that they built it in so discommodious 
a place; for the Sea, and all nauigable
riuers being the chiefe meanes for the
enriching of Townes and Cities, by the reason
of Traffique with forraine Nations, with exportation,
transportation, and receite of variety
of Marchandizing; so this Citie had it
beene built but one mile lower on the Sea
side, I doubt not but it had long before this
beene comparable to many a one of our greatest
Townes and Cities in (^Europe^) , both for spaciousnesse 
of bounds, Port, state, and riches.
It is said, that King (^Iames^) the fifth (of famous
memory) did graciously offer to purchase for
them, and to bestow vpon them freely, certaine
low and pleasant grounds a mile from
them on the Sea shore, with these conditions,
that they should pull downe their Citie, and
build it in that more commodious place, but
the Citizens refused it: and so now it is like
(for me) to stand where it doth, for I doubt
such another profer of remouall will not bee
presented to them, till two dayes after the Faire.
   Now haue with you for (^Leeth^) , whereto I no
sooner came, but I was well entertained by
Master (^Barnard Lindsay^) , one of the Groomes
of his Maiesties Bed-chamber, hee knew my
estate was not guilty, because I brought guilt
with me (more then my sins, and they would
not passe for current there) hee therefore did
replenish the vaustity of my empty purse, &
discharged a piece at mee with two bullets of
gold, each being in value worth eleuen shillings
white money: and I was credibly informed, 
that within the compasse of one yeere,
there was shipped away from that onely Port
of (^Leeth^) , foure score thousand Boles of Wheat,             #
[^SOURCE TEXT: wheat.^]
Oates, and Barley into (^Spaine^) , (^France^) , and
other forraine parts, and euery Bole containes 
<P 131.C1>
the measure of foure English bushels, so that
from (^Leeth^) onely hath beene transported three
hundred and twenty thousand bushels of
Corne; besides some hath beene shipped away
from Saint (^Andrewes^) , from (^Dundee, Aberdeene,
Disert, Kirkady, Kinghorne, Burnt-Iland, Dunbar^) ,
and other portable Townes, which makes me
to wonder that a Kingdome so populous as it
is, should neuerthelesse sell so much bread-corne
beyond the Seas, and yet to haue more 
then sufficient for themselues.
   So I hauing viewed the Hauen and Towne
of (^Leeth^) , tooke a passage Boate to see the new
wondrous Well, to which many a one that is
not well, comes farre and neere in hope to be
made well: indeed I did heare that it had done
much good, and that it hath a rare operation
to expell or kill diuers maladies; as to prouoke
appetite, to helpe much for the auoyding of
the grauell in the bladder, to cure sore eyes,
and old vlcers, with many other vertues
which it hath, but I through the mercy of
God, hauing no need of it, did make no great
inquisition what it had done, but for nouelty
I dranke of it, and I found the taste to be more
pleasant then any other water, sweet almost as
milke, yet as cleare as cristall, and I did obserue,
that though a man did drinke a quart,
a pottle, or as much as his belly could containe, 
yet it neuer offended or lay heauy vpon
the stomacke, no more then if one had dranke
but a pint or a small quantity.
   I went two miles from it to a Towne called
(^Burnt-Iland^) , where I found many of my especiall
good friends, as Master (^Robert Hay^) , one
of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber,
Master (^Dauid Drummond^) , one of his Gentlemen
Pentioners, Master (^Iames Acmooty^) , one
of the Groomes of the Priuie Chamber, Captaine 
(^Murray^) , Sir (^Henry Witherington^) Knight,
Captaine (^Tyrie^) , and diuers others: and there
Master (^Hay^) , Master (^Drummond^) , and the good
olde Captaine (^Murray^) did very bountifully
furnish mee with gold for my expences, but
I being at dinner with those aforesaid Gentlemen,
as we were discoursing, there befell a
strange accident, which I thinke worth the 
relating.
<P 131.C2>
   I know not vpon what occasion they began
to talke of being at Sea in former times, and I
(amongst the rest) said, I was at the taking of
(^Cales^) ; whereto an English Gentleman replyed,
that hee was the next good voyage after at the
Ilands: I answered him that I was there also.
He demanded in what ship I was? I tolde him
in the Rainebowe of the Queenes: why (quoth
he) doe you not know me? I was in the same
ship, and my name is (^Witherington^) .
   Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but
by reason that it is neere two and twenty yeers
since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge
of you. Well said he, if you were in that
ship, I pray you tell me some remarkable token
that happened in the voyage, whereupon
I told him two or three tokens; which he did
know to be true. Nay then, said I, I will tell
you another which (perhaps) you haue not
forgotten; as our ship and the rest of the fleet
did ride at Anchor at the Ile of (^Flores^) (one of
the Iles of the (^Azores^) ) there were some foureteene
men and boyes of our ship, that for nouelty
would goe ashore, and see what fruit the
Iland did beare, and what entertainment it
would yeeld vs: so being landed, we went vp
and downe and could finde nothing but
stones, heath and mosse, and wee expected
Oranges, Limonds, Figges, Muske-millions,
and Potatoes: in the meane space the wind did
blow so stiffe, and the Sea was so extreme
rough, that our Ship-boate could not come
to the land to fetch vs, for feare she should bee
beaten in pieces against the rockes: this continued
fiue dayes, so that we were almost famished
for want of food: but at last (I squandring
vp and downe) by the prouidence of God I
hapned into a Caue or poore habitation, where
I found fifteene loaues of bread, each of the
quantity of a penny loafe in (^England^) , I hauing
a valiant stomacke of the age of almost of a
hundred and twenty houres breeding, fell to,
and ate two loaues and neuer said grace: and
as I was about to make a Horse-loafe of the
third loafe, I did put twelue of them into my
breeches, and my sleeues, and so went mumbling
out of the Caue, leaning my backe against
a Tree, when vpon the sudden a Gentleman
<P 132.C1>
came to me, and said, Friend, what are
you eating? Bread, (quoth I.) For Gods sake
said he, giue me some. With that, I put my
hand into my breech, (being my best pantrey)
and I gaue him a Loafe, which hee receiued
with many thankes, and said, that if euer hee
could requite it, he would.
   I had no sooner told this tale, but Sir (^Henry
Witherington^) did acknowledge himselfe to bee
the man that I had giuen the Loafe vnto two
and twenty yeeres before, where I found the
Prouerbe true, that men haue more priuiledge
then mountaines in meeting.
   In what great measure hee did requite so
small a courtesie, I will relate in this following 
discourse in my Returne through (^Northumberland^) :
So leauing my man at the Town of (^Burnt 
Iland^) , I tolde him, I would but goe to (^Sterling^) ,
and see the Castle there, and withall to
see my honourable friends the Earle of (^Marr^) ,
and Sir (^William Murray^) Knight, Lord of (^Abercarny^) ,
and that I would returne within two 
dayes at the most: But it fell out quite contrary;
for it was fine and thirtie dayes before I
could get backe againe out of these Noble
mens company. The whole progres of my trauell
with them, and the cause of my stay, I cannot
with gratefulnesse omit; and thus it was.
   A worthy Gentleman named Master (^Iohn
Fenton^) , did bring me on my way sixe miles
to (^Dumfermling^) , where I was well entertained,
and lodged at Master (^Iohn Gibb^) his house, one
of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber,
and I thinke the oldest Seruant the King hath:
withall, I was well entertained there by Master
(^Crighton^) at his owne house, who went with
me, and shewed me the Queenes Palace; (a
delicate & Princely Mansion) withall I saw the
ruines of an ancient & stately built Abey, with
faire gardens, orchards, medowes belonging to
the Palace: all which with faire & goodly reuenues
by the suppression of the Abbey, were annexed
to the Crowne. There also I saw a very 
faire Church, which though it bee now very
large and spacious, yet it hath in former times
beene much larger. But I taking my leaue of
(^Dumfermling^) , would needs goe and see the
truely Noble Knight Sir (^George Bruce^) , at a
<P 132.C2>
Towne called the (^Cooras^) : there he made mee
right welcome, both with varietie of fare, and
after all, hee commanded three of his men to
direct mee to see his most admirable Colemines;
which (if man can or could worke
wonders) is a wonder: for my selfe neither in 
any trauels that I haue beene in, nor any History
that I haue read, or any Discourse that I
haue heard, did neuer see, read, or heare of
any worke of man that might parallell or bee
equiualent with this vnfellowed and vnmatchable
work: & though all I can say of it, cannot
describe it according to the worthines of
his vigilant industry, that was both the occasion, 
Inuentor, & Maintainer of it: yet rather 
then the memory of so rare an Enterprise, and
so accomplisht a profit to the Common-wealth
shall bee raked and smothered in the dust of
obliuion, I will giue a little touch at the description
of it, although I amongst Writers, am
like he that worst may hold the candle.
   The Mine hath two wayes into it, the one
by sea and the other by land; but a man may
goe into it by land, and returne the same way
if he please, and so he may enter into it by sea,
and by sea he may come forth of it: but I for
varieties sake went in by sea, and out by land.
Now men may obiect, how can a man goe into
a Mine, the entrance of it being into the sea,
but that the Sea will follow him, and so drown
the Mine? To which obiection thus I answer,
That at low water, the sea being ebd away,
and a great part of the sand bare; vpon this
same sand (being mixed with rockes and
cragges) did the Master of this great worke
build a round circular frame of stone, very
thicke, strong, and ioyned togethher with glutinous
or bitumous matter, so high withall that
the Sea at the highest flood, or the greatest
rage of storme or tempest, can neither dissolue
the stones so well compacted in the building
or yet ouerflowe the height of it. Within
this round frame, (at all aduentures) hee did
set workemen to digge with Mattockes, Pick-axes,
and other instruments fit for such purposes.
They did dig forty foot downe right,
into and through a rocke. At last they found
that which they expected, which was Sea-cole,
<P 133.C1>
they following the veine of the Mine, did dig
forward still: So that in the space of eight and
twenty, or nine and twenty yeeres, they haue
digged more then an English mile vnder the
Sea, that when men are at worke belowe, an
hundred of the greatest shippes in (^Britaine^)
may saile ouer their heads. Besides, the Mine
is most artificially cut like an Arch or a Vault,
all that great length, with many nookes and
by-wayes: and it is so made, that a man may
walke vpright in the most places, both in and
out. Many poore people are there set on work,
which otherwise through the want of imployment 
would perish. But when I had seene the
Mine, and was come forth of it againe; after
my thankes giuen to Sir (^George Bruce^) , I told
him, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason
in England had seene this Mine, that they (perhaps) 
would haue attempted to haue left the
Parliament House, and haue vndermined the
Thames, and so to haue blowne vp the Barges
and Wherries, wherein the King, and all
the Estates of our Kingdome were. Moreouer,
I said, that I could affoord to turne Tapster
at (^London^) , so that I had but one quarter of
a mile of his Mine to make mee a Celler, to
keepe Beere and Bottle-ale in. But leauing
these Iests in Prose, I will relate a few Verses
that I made merrily of this Mine.
  
<S SAMPLE 2>
<P 133.C2>
   The Sea at certaines places doth leake, or
soake into the Mine, which by the industry of
Sir (^George Bruce^) , is all conueyd to one Well
neere the land; where he hath a deuice like a
horse-mill, that with three horses and a great
chaine of Iron, going downeward many fadomes,
with thirty sixe buckets fastened to the 
chaine, of the which eighteene goe downe
still to be filled, and eighteene ascend vp to
be emptied, which doe emptie themselues
(without any mans labour) into a trough that
conueyes the water into the Sea againe; by 
which meanes he saues his Mine, which otherwise
would be destroyed with the Sea, besides
he doth make euery weeke ninety or a hundred
Tunnes of salt, which doth serue most part of
(^Scotland^) , some he sends into (^England^) , and very
much into (^Germany^) : all which shewes the painfull
industry with Gods blessings to such worthy
endeauours: I must with many thankes remember
his courtesie to me, and lastly how he
sent his man to guide mee tenne miles on the
way to (^Sterling^) , where by the way I saw the outside
of a faire and stately house called (^Allaway^) ,
belonging to the Earle of (^Marr^) , which
<P 134.C1>
by reason that his Honor was not there, I past
by and went to (^Sterling^) , where I was entertained
and lodged at one Master (^Iohn Archibalds^) ,
where all my want was that I wanted roome to
containe halfe the good cheere that I might
haue had there; hee had me into the Castle,
which in few words I doe compare to (^Windsor^) 
for situation, much more then (^Windsor^) in
strength, and somewhat lesse in greatnesse; yet
I dare affirme, that his Maiesty hath not such
another hall to any house that he hath neither
in (^England^) or (^Scotland^) , except Westminster Hall
which is now no dwelling Hall for a Prince,
being long since metamorphosed into a house
for the Law and the profits.
   This goodly Hall was built by King (^Iames^)
the fourth, that marryed King (^Henry^) the eights
sister, and after was slaine at (^Flodden field^) ; but
it surpasses all the Halls for dwelling houses
that euer I saw, for length, breadth, height
and strength of building, the Castle is built
vpon a rocke very lofty, and much beyond
(^Edenborough^) Castle in state and magnificence,
and not much inferiour to it in strength, the
roomes of it are lofty, with carued workes on
the seelings, the doores of each roome being
so high, that a man may ride vpright on horse-backe
into any chamber or lodging. There is
also a goodly faire Chappell, with Cellers,
Stables, and all other necessary Offices, all
very stately & befitting the Maiesty of a King.
   From (^Sterling^) I rode to Saint (^Iohnston^) , a fine
Towne it is, but it is much decayed, by reason 
of the want of his Maiesties yeerely comming
to lodge there. There I lodged one night
at an Inne, the goodman of the house his
name being (^Petricke Pettcarne^) , where my entertainement
was with good cheere, good
lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest.
Mine Host told me that the Earle of (^Marr^) , and
Sir (^William Murray^) of (^Abercarny^) were gone to
the great hunting to the (^Brea^) of (^Marr^) ; but
if I made haste I might perhaps finde them at 
a Towne called (^Breekin^) , or (^Breechin^) , two and
thirty miles from Saint (^Iohn stone^) whereupon
I tooke a guide to (^Breekin^) the next day, but
before I came, my Lord was gone from thence
foure dayes.
<P 134.C2>
   Then I tooke another guide, which brought
me such strange wayes ouer mountaines and
rockes, that I thinke my horse neuer went the
like; and I am sure I neuer saw any wayes that
might fellow them. I did go through a Countrey
called (^Glaneske^) , where passing by the side
of a hill, so steepe as the ridge of a house,
where the way was rocky, and not aboue a
yard broad in some places, so fearfull and 
horrid it was to looke down into the bottome,
for if either horse or man had slipt, he had fallen
(without recouery) a good mile downeright;
but I thanke God, at night I came to a
lodging in the Lard of (^Eggels^) Land, where I
lay at an Irish house, the folkes not being
able to speake scarce any English, but I sup'd
and went to bed, where I had not laine long,
but I was enforced to rise, I was so stung with
Irish Musketaes, a creature that hath sixe legs,
and liues like a monster altogether vpon mans
flesh, they doe inhabite and breed most in sluttish
houses, and this house was none of the
cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in (^England^) ,
both in shape and nature; in a word,
they were to me the (^A.^) and the (^Z.^) the Prologue
and the Epilogue, the first and the last that I
had in all my trauels from (^Endenborough^) ; and 
had not this High-land Irish house helped me
at a pinch, I should haue sworne that all (^Scotland^)
had not beene so kind as to haue bestowed
a Louse vpon me: but with a shift that I had, I
shifted off my Canibals, and was neuer more
troubled with them.
   The next day I trauelled ouer an exceeding
high mountaine, called mount (^Skeene^) , where I
found the valley very warme before I went vp
it; but when I came to the top of it, my teeth
beganne to dance in my head with cold, like
Virginals iacks; and withall, a most familiar
mist embraced me round, that I could not see
thrice my length any way: withall, it yeelded
so friendly a deaw, that it did moysten thorow
all my clothes: Where the old Prouerbe
of a Scottish Miste was verified, in wetting me
to the skinne. Vp and downe, I thinke this hill
is sixe miles, the way so vneuen, stony, and
full of bogges, quagmires, and long health,
that a dogge with three legs will out-runne 
<P 135.C1>
horse with foure: for doe what we could, wee
were foure houres before we could passe it.
   Thus with extreme trauell, ascending and
descending, mounting and alighting, I came
at night to the place where I would be, in the
Brea of (^Marr^) , which is a large County, all
composed of such mountaines, that Shooters
hill, Gads hill, Highgate hill, Hampsted hill,
Birdlip hill, or Maluernes hill, are but Molehills
in comparison, or like a Liuer, or a Gizard
vnder a Capons wing, in respect of the 
altitude of their tops, or perpendicularitie of
their bottomes. There I saw Mount (^Benawne^) ,
with a furrd'd mist vpon his snowie head in
stead of a nightcap: (for you must vnderstand,
that the oldest man aliue neuer saw but the
snow was on the top of diuers of those hills,
both in Summer, as well as in Winter) There
did I finde the truely Noble and Right Honourable
Lords (^Iohn Erskin^) Earle of Marr,
(^Iames Stuart^) Earle of Murray, (^George Gordon^)
Earle of Engye, sonne and heire to the Marquesse
of Huntley, (^Iames Erskin^) Earle of
Bughan, and (^Iohn^) Lord (^Erskin^) , sonne and
heire to the Earle of Marr, and their Countesses,
with my much honoured, and my best
assured and approued friend, Sir (^William Murray^) 
Knight, of (^Abercarny^) , and hundred of 
others Knights, Esquires, and their followers;
all and euery man in generall in one habit, as if
(^Licurgus^) had beene there, and made Lawes of
Equality: For once in the yeere, which is the
whole moneth of August, and sometimes part
of September, many of the Nobility and Gentry
of the Kingdome (for their pleasure) doe
come into these high-land Countries to hunt,
where they doe conforme themselues to the
habite of the High-land-men, who for the
most part speake nothing but Irish; and in former
time were those people which were called
the (^Red-shankes^) . Their habite is shooes with
but one sole apiece; stockings (which they
call short hose) made of a warme stuffe of
diuers colours, which they call Tartane: as
for breeches, many of them, nor their forefathers
neuer wore any, but a ierkin of the same
stuffe that their hose is of, their garters being
bands or wreathes of hay or straw, with a plead
<P 135.C2>
about their shoulders, which is a mantle of
diuers colours, much finer and lighter stuffe
then their hose, with blue flat caps on their 
heads, a handkerchiefe knit with two knots
about their necke: and thus are they attyred.
Now their weapons are long bowes and forked
arrowes, Swords and Targers, Harquebusses,
Muskets, Durks, and Loquhabor-Axes.
With these Armes I found many of them armed
for the hunting. As for their attire, any
man of what degree soeuer that comes amongst
them, must not disdaine to weare it:
for if they doe, then they will disdaine to hunt,
or willingly to bring in their Dogges: but if
men be kind vnto them, and be in their habit; 
then are they conquered with kindnesse, and
the sport will be plentifull. This was the reason
that I found so many Noblemen and Gentlemen
in those shapes. But to proceed to the
hunting.
   My good Lord of (^Marr^) hauing put me into
that shape, I rode with him from his house,
where I saw the ruines of an old Castle, called
the Castle of (^Kindroghit^) . It was built by
King (^Malcolm Canmore^) (for a hunting house)
who raigned in (^Scotland^)  when (^Edward^) the Confessor,
(^Harold^) , and Norman (^William^) raigned
in (^England^) : I speake of it, because it was the last
house that I saw in those parts; for I was the
space of twelue dayes after, before I saw either
House, Corne-field, or habitation for any
creature, but Deere, wilde Horses, Wolues,
and such like creatures, which made mee
doubt that I should neuer haue seene a house
againe.
   Thus the first day wee traueld eight miles,
where there were small cottages built on purpose
to lodge in, which they call Lonquhards,
I thanke my good Lord (^Erskin^) , hee commanded
that I should alwayes bee lodged in his
lodging, the Kitchin being alwayes on the
side of a banke, many Kettles and Pots boyling,
and many spits turning and winding, with
great variety of cheere: as Venison bak't, sodden,
rost, and stu'de Beefe, Mutton, Goates,
Kid, Hares, fresh Salmon, Pidgeons, Hens,
Capons, Chickins, Partridge, Moorecoots,
Heathcocks, Caperkellies, and Termagants;
<P 136.C1>
good Ale, Sacke, White, and Claret, Tent,
(or Allegant) with most potent (^Aquavitae^) .
   All these, and more then these we had continually,
in superfluous aboundance, caught
by Faulconers, Fowlers, Fishers, and brought
by my Lords Tenants and Purueyers to victuall
our Campe, which consisteth of fourteen
or fifteene hundred men and horses; the manner
of the hunting is this: Fiue or sixe hundred
men doe rise early in the morning, and they
doe disperse themselues diuers wayes, and
seuen, eight or tenne miles compasse, they
doe bring or chase in the Deere in many
heards, (two, three or foure hundred in a
heard) to such or such a place, as the Noblemen
shall appoint them; then when day is
come, the Lords and Gentlemen of their
Companies, doe ride or goe to the said places,
sometimes wading vp to the middles
through bournes and riuers: and then they
being come to the place, doe lye downe on
the ground, till those foresaid Scouts which
are called the Tinckhell, doe bring downe the
Deere: But as the Prouerbe sayes of a bad
Cooke, so these Tinckhell men doe like their
owne fingers; for besides their bowes and arrowes
which they carry with them, wee can
heare now and then a Harquebusse or a Musket
goe off, which they doe seldome discharge
in vaine: Then after we had stayed there three
houres or thereabouts, we might perceiue the
Deere appeare on the hills round about vs,
(their heads making a shew like a wood) which
being followed close by the Tinkhall, are chased
downe into the valley where we lay; then
all the valley on each side being way-laid with
a hundred couple of strong Irish Grey-hounds,
they are let loose as occasion serues vpon the
heard of Deere, that with Dogges, Gunnes,
Arrowes, Durkes, and Daggers, in the space
of two houres, fourescore fat Deere were
slaine, which after are disposed of some one
way, and some another, twenty and thirty
miles, and more then enough left for vs to
make merry withall at our Rendez-vous. I liked
the sport so well, that I made these two
Sonnets following.

<S SAMPLE 3>
<P 136.C2>
   Being come to our lodgings, there was such 
Baking, Boyling, Roasting, and Stewing, as
if Cooke Russian had beene there to haue scalded
the Deuill in his feathers: and after supper
a fire of Firre-wood as high as an indifferent
May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earle of
(^Marr^) will giue any man that is his friend,
for thankes, as many Firre trees (that are as
good as any shippes masts in England) as are
worth (if they were in any place neere the
Thames, or any other portable riuer) the best
Earledome in England or Scotland either:
For I dare affirme, hee hath as many growing
there, as would serue for masts (from this time
to the end of the world) for all the shippes,
Carackes, Hoyes, Galleyes, Boates, Drumlers,
Barkes, and Water-crafts, that are now,
or can be in the world these fourty yeeres.
   This sounds like a lye to an vnbeleeuer; but 
I and many thousands doe knowe that I speake 
<P 137.C1>
within the compasse of truth: for indeede (the
more is the pitty) they doe grow so farre from
any passage of water, and [^SOURCE TEXT: aad^] withall in       #
such rockie
Mountaines, that no way to conuey them is
possible to bee passable, either with Boate,
Horse, or Cart.
   Thus hauing spent certaine dayes in hunting
in the Brea of (^Marr^) , wee went to the next
County called (^Bagenoch^) , belonging to the Earle
of (^Engie^) , where hauing such sport and entertainement
as we formerly had; after foure or
fiue dayes pastime, we tooke leaue of hunting
for that yeere; and tooke our iourney toward
a strong house of the Earles, called (^Ruthen^) in
(^Bagenoch^) , where my Lord of (^Engie^) and his Noble
Countesse (being daughter to the Earle
of (^Argile^) ) did giue vs most noble welcome
three dayes.
   From thence we went to a place called (^Ballo
Castle^) , a faire and stately house, a worthie
Gentleman being the Owner of it, called the
Lard of (^Graunt^) ; his wife being a Gentlewoman
honourably descended being sister to
theright Honourable Earle of (^Atholl^) , and to
Sir (^Patricke Murray^) Knight; she being both inwardly
and outwardly plentifully adorned
with the gifts of Grace and Nature: so that
our cheere was more then sufficient; and yet
much lesse then they could affoord vs. There
stayed there foure dayes, foure Earles, one
Lord, diuers Knights and Gentlemen, and
their seruants, footmen and horses; and euery
meale foure long Tables furnished with all varieties:
Our first & second course being threescore
dishes at one boord; and after that alwayes
a Banquet: and there if I had not forsworne
wine till I came to (^Edenborough^) , I thinke
I had there dranke my last.
   The fifth day with much adoe we gate from
thence to (^Tarnaway^) , a goodly house of the
Earle of (^Murrayes^) , where that right Honourable
Lord and his Lady did welcome vs foure
dayes more. There was good cheere in all variety,
with somewhat more then plenty for aduantage:
for indeed the Countie of (^Murray^) is
the most pleasantest, and plentifull Countrey
in all (^Scotland^) ; being plaine land, that a Coach
may be driuen more then foure and thirtie
<P 137.C2>
miles one way in it, alongst by the Sea-coast.
   From thence I went to (^Elgen^) in (^Murray^) , an
ancient Citie, where there stood a faire and
beautifull Church with three steeples, the walls
of it and the steeples all yet standing; but the
Roofes, Windowes, and many Marble Monuments
and Toombes of honourable and
worthie personages all broken and defaced:
this was done in the time when ruine bare
rule, and Knox knock'd downe Churches.
   From (^Elgen^) we went to the Bishop of (^Murray^)
his house which is called (^Spinye^) , or (^Spinaye^) :
a Reuerend Gentleman he is, of the Noble
name of (^Dowglasse^) , where wee were very well
wel-comed, as befitted the honour of himselfe
and his guests.
   From thence we departed to the Lord Marquesse 
of (^Huntleys^) , to a sumptuous house of his,
named the (^Bogg of Geethe^) , where our entertainement
was like himselfe, free, bountifull
and honourable. There (after two dayes stay)
with much entreatie and earnest suite, I gate
leaue of the Lords to depart towards (^Edenborough^) :
the Noble Marquesse, the Earle of (^Marr,
Murray, Engie, Bughan^) , and the Lord (^Erskin^) ;
all these, I thanke them, gaue me gold to defray
my charges in my iourney.
   So after fiue and thirty dayes hunting and
trauell, I returning, past by another stately
mansion of the Lord Marquesses, called (^Stroboggi^) ,
and so ouer (^Carny^) mount to (^Breekin^) , 
where a wench that was borne deafe and dumb
came into my chamber at midnight (I being
asleepe) and shee opening the bed, would
faine haue lodged with mee: but had I beene a
(^Sardanapalus^) , or a (^Heliogabalus^) , I thinke that either
the great trauell ouer the Mountaines had
tamed me; or if not, her beautie could neuer
haue moued me. The best parts of her were,
that her breath was as sweet as sugar-carrion,
being very well shouldered beneath the waste;
and as my Hostesse told me the next morning,
that she had changed her Maiden-head for the
price of a Bastard not long before. But howsoeuer,
shee made such a hideous noyse, that I
started out of my sleepe, and thought that the
Deuill had beene there: but I no sooner knew
who it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb
<P 138.C1>
beast out of my chamber; and for want of a
locke or a latch, I staked vp my doore with a
great chaire.
   Thus hauing escaped one of the seuen deadly 
sinnes as at (^Breekin^) , I departed from thence
to a Towne called (^Forfard^) ; and from thence to
(^Dundee^) , and so to (^Kinghorne^) , (^Burnt Iland^) , and
so to (^Edenborough^) , where I stayed eight dayes,
to recouer my selfe of falls and bruises which I
receiued in my trauell in the High-land mountainous
hunting, Great welcome I had shewed
me all my stay at (^Edenborough^) , by many worthy
Gentlemen, namely, old Master (^George Todrigg^) ,
Master (^Henry Leuingston^) , Master (^Iames Henderson^) ,
Master (^Iohn Maxwell^) , and a number of
others, who suffered mee to want no wine or
good cheere, as may be imagined.
   Now the day before I came from (^Edenborough^) ,
I went to (^Leeth^) , where I found my long approued
and assured good friend Master (^Beniamin Iohnston^) ,
at one Master (^Iohn Stuarts^) house:
I thanke him for his great kindnesse towards
me: for at my taking leaue of him, he gaue me
a piece of gold of two and twenty shillings to
drink his health in (^England^) . And withall, willed
me to remember his kind commendations to
all his friends: So with a friendly farewell, I
left him as well, as I hope neuer to see in a
worse estate: for he is amongst Noblemen and
Gentlemen; that knowe his true worth, and
their owne honours, where, with much respectiue 
loue he is worthily entertained.
   So leauing (^Leeth^) , I return'd to (^Edenborough^) ,
and within the port or gate, called the (^Netherbowe^) ,
I discharged my pockets of all the money
I had: and as I came pennilesse within the
walls of that Citie at my first comming thither;
so now at my departing from thence, I 
came moneylesse out of it againe; hauing in
company to conuey me out, certaine Gentlemen,
amongst the which was Master (^Iames
Acherson^) , Laird of (^Gasford^) , a Gentleman that
brought mee to his house, where with great 
entertainement he and his good wife did
welcome me.
   On the morrow he sent one of his men to
bring me to a place called (^Adam^) , to Master
(^Iohn Acmootye^) his house, one of the Groomes
<P 138.C2>
of his Maiesties Bed-chamber; where with
him and his two brethren, Master (^Alexander^) ,
and Master (^Iames Acmootye^) , I found both cheere
and Welcome, not inferiour to any that I had
had in any former place.
   Amongst our viands that wee had there, I
must not forget the Soleand Goose, a most
delicate Fowle, which breeds in great aboundance
in a little Rocke called the (^Basse^) , which
stands two miles into the Sea. It is very good 
flesh, but it is eaten in the forme as wee eate
Oysters, standing at a side-boord, a little before
dinner, vnsanctified without Grace; and
after it is eaten, it must be well liquored with
two or three good rowses of Sherrie or Canarie
sacke. The Lord or Owner of the (^Basse^) doth
profit at the least two hundred pound yeerely
by those Geese; the (^Basse^) it selfe being of a
great height, and neere three quarters of a
mile in compasse, all fully replenished with
Wildfowle, hauing but one small entrance into
it, with a house, a garden, and a Chappell
in it; & on the toppe of it a Well of pure fresh
water.
   From (^Adam^) , Master (^Iohn^) and Master (^Iames
Acmootye^) went to the Towne of (^Dunbarr^) with
me, where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed,
and brought to nothing for a farewell:
there at Master (^Iames Baylies^) house I tooke
leaue, and Master (^Iames Acmootye^) comming
for (^England^) , said, that if I would ride with him,
that neither I nor my horse should want betwixt
that place and (^London^) . Now I hauing no
money or meanes for trauell, began at once to
examine my manners and my want: at last my
want perswaded my manners to accept of this
worthy Gentlemans vndeserued courtesie. So
that night he brought me to a place called (^Cober-spath^) , 
where we lodged at an Inne, the like 
of which I dare say, is not in any of his Maiesties
Dominions. And for to shewe my thankfulnesse
to Master (^William Arnet^) and his wife,
the Owners thereof, I must explaine their
bountifull entertainement of guests, which is
this:
   Suppose ten, fifteene, or twenty men and
horses come to lodge at their house, the men
shall haue flesh, tame and wild-fowle, fish with
<P 139.C1>
all varietie of good cheere, good lodging,
and welcome; and the horses shall want neither 
hay or prouender: and at the morning at
their departure the reckoning is iust nothing.
This is this worthy Gentlemans vse, his chiefe
delight being onely to giue strangers entertainment
(^gratis^) : And I am sure, that in (^Scotland^)
beyond (^Edenborough^) , I haue beene at houses
like Castles for building; the master of the
house his Beauer being his blue Bonnet, one
that will weare no other shirts, but of the Flaxe
that growes on his owne ground, and of his
wiues, daughters, or seruants spinning; that
hath his Stockings, Hose, and Ierkin of the
Wooll of his owne Sheepes backes; that neuer
(by his pride of apparell) caused Mercer, Draper,
Silke-man, Embroyderer, or Haberdasher 
to breake and turne bankerupt: and yet
this plaine home-spunne fellow keepes and
maintaines thirty, forty, fifty seruants, or perhaps
more, euery day releeuing three or foure
score poore people at his gate; and besides all
this, can giue noble entertainment for foure or
fiue dayes together to fiue or sixe Earles and
Lords, besides Knights, Gentlemen and their
followers, if they bee three or foure hundred
men, and horse of them, where they shall not
onely feede but feast, and not feast but banket,
this is a man that desires to know nothing so
much, as his duty to God and his King whose
greatest cares are to practise the workes of
Piety, Charity, and Hospitality: he neuer
studies the consuming Art of fashionlesse fashions,
hee neuer tries his strength to beare
foure or fiue hundred Acres on his backe at
once, his legges are alwayes at liberty, not
being fettred with golden garters, and manacled
with artificial Roses, whose weight (sometime)
is the Reliques of some decayed Lordship:
Many of these worthy house-keepers
there are in (^Scotland^) , amongst some of them I
was entertained; from whence I did truely gather
these aforesaid obseruations.
   So leauing (^Coberspath^) , we rode to (^Barwicke^) ,
where the worthy old Soldier and ancient
Knight, Sir (^William Bowyer^) , made me welcome,
but contrary to his will, we lodged at an Inne,
where Master (^Iames Acmooty^) paid all charges:
<P 139.C2>
but at (^Barwhicke^) there was a grieuous chance
hapned, which I thinke not fit the relation to
be omitted.
   In the Riuer of (^Tweed^) , which runnes by
(^Barwicke^) , are taken by Fishermen that dwell
there, infinite numbers of fresh Salmons, so
that many housholds and families are relieued
by the profit of that fishing; but (how
long since I know not) there was an order that
no man or boy whatsoeuer should fish vpon a
Sunday: This order continued long amongst
them, till some eight or nine weekes before
Michaelmas last, on a Sunday, the Salmons
plaid in such great aboundance in the Riuer,
that some of the Fishermen (contrary to Gods
law and their owne order) tooke Boates and
nettes and fished, and caught three hundred
Salmons; but from that time vntill Michaelmas
day that I was there, which was nine
weekes, and heard the report of it, and saw the
poore peoples lamentations, they had not
seene one Salmon in the Riuer; and some of
them were in despaire that they should neuer
see any more there; affirming it to be Gods
Iudgement vpon them for the prophanation
of the Sabbath.
   The thirtieth of September we rode from
(^Barwicke^) to (^Belford^) , from (^Belford^) to (^Anwicke^) ,
the next day from (^Anwick^) to (^Newcastle^) , where
I found the noble Knight, Sir (^Henry Witherington^) ; 
who, because I would haue no gold nor
siluer, gaue me a bay Mare, in requitall of a
loafe of bread that I had giuen him two and
twenty yeeres before, at the Iland of (^Flores^) , of
the which I haue spoken before. I ouertooke
at (^Newcastle^) a great many of my worthy
friends, which were all comming for (^London^) ,
namely, Master (^Robert Hay^) , and Master (^Dauid
Drummond^) , where I was welcom'd at Master
(^Nicholas Tempests^) house. From (^Newcastle^) I rode
with those Gentlemen to (^Durham^) , to (^Darington^) , 
to (^Northalerton^) , and to (^Topcliffe^) in (^Yorkeshire^) ,
where I tooke my leaue of them, and
would needs try my pennilesse fortunes by my
selfe, and see the City of (^Yorke^) , where I was
lodged at my right Worshipfull good friend,
Master Doctor (^Hudson^) one of his Maiesties
Chaplaines, who went with me, and shewed
<P 140.C1>
me the goodly Minster Church there, and the
most admirable, rare-wrought, vnfellowed
Chapter house.
   From (^Yorke^) I rode to (^Doncaster^) , where my
horses were well fed at the Beare, but my selfe
found out the honourable Knight, Sir (^Robert
Anstruther^) at his father in lawes, the truely noble
Sir (^Robert Swifts^) house, he being then high
Sheriffe of (^Yorkeshire^) , where with their good
Ladies, and the right Honourable the Lord
(^Sanquhar^) , I was stayed two nights and one day,
Sir (^Robert Anstruther^) (I thanke him) not only
paying for my two horses meat, but at my departure,
he gaue me a letter to (^Newarke^) vpon
(^Trent^) , twenty eight miles in my way, where
Master (^George Atkinson^) mine Host made me as
welcome, as if I had beene a French Lord, and
what was to be paid, as I call'd for nothing, I
paid as much; and left the reckoning with many
thankes to Sir (^Robert Anstruther^) .
   So leauing (^Newarke^) , with another Gentleman
that ouertooke me, we came at night to
(^Stamford^) , to the signe of the Virginitie (or the
Maydenhead) where I deliuered a Letter from
the Lord (^Sanquhar^) ; which caused Master (^Bates^)
and his wife, being the Master and Mistresse of
the house, to make me and the Gentleman that
was with me great cheere for nothing.
   From (^Stamford^) the next day we rode to (^Huntington^) ,
where we lodged at the Post-masters
house, at the signe of the Crowne; his name
is (^Riggs^) . He was informed who I was, and
wherefore I vndertooke this my pennilesse
Progresse: wherefore he came vp to our chamber,
and sup'd with vs, and very bountifully
<P 140.C2>
called for three quarts of Wine and Sugar,
and foure Iugges of Beere. He did drinke and
beginne healths like a Horse-leech, and swallowed
downe his cuppes without feeling, as if
he had had the dropsie, or nine pound of
Spunge in his maw. In a word, as he is a Poste,
he dranke poste, striuing and calling by all
meanes to make the reckoning great, or to
make vs men of great reckoning. But in his
payment he was tyred like a Iade, leauing the
Gentleman that was with me to discharge the
terrible Shott, or else one of my horses must
haue laine in pawne for is superfluous calling,
and vnmannerly intrusion.
   But leauing him, I left (^Huntington^) , and rode
on the Sunday to (^Puckeridge^) , where Master
(^Holland^) at the Faulkon, (mine old acquaintance)
and my louing and ancient Hoste gaue
mee, my friend, my man, and our horses excellent 
cheere, and welcome, and I paid him
with, Not a penny of money.
   The next day I came to (^London^) , and obscurely
coming within More-gate, I went to a house
and borrowed money: And so I stole backe
againe to (^Islington^) , to the signe of the Maydenhead,
staying till Wednesday, that my friends
came to meete me, who knew no other, but
that Wednesday was my first comming: where
with all loue I was entertained with much
good cheere: and after Supper we had a play
of the life and death of (^Guy of Warwicke^) , played
by the Right Honourable the Earle of (^Darbie^)
his men. And so on the Thursday morning being
the fifteenth of October, I came home to
my house in (^London^) .   



