<B CETRAV3B>
<Q E3 NN TRAV FRYER>
<N ACCOUNT EAST-INDIA>
<A FRYER JOHN>
<C E3>
<O 1640-1710>
<M X>
<K X>
<D ENGLISH>
<V PROSE>
<T TRAVELOGUE>
<G X>
<F X>
<W WRITTEN>
<X MALE>
<Y 40-60>
<H PROF>
<U X>
<E X>
<J X>
<I X>
<Z NARR NON-IMAG>
<S SAMPLE X>


[^FRYER, JOHN.
A NEW ACCOUNT OF EAST INDIA AND PERSIA,
BEING NINE YEARS' TRAVELS, 1672-1681.
VOLS. I, II.
ED. W. CROOKE.
LONDON: THE HAKLUYT SOCIETY, 1909, 1912. 
I,  PP. 182.21 - 193.24  (SAMPLE 1)
II, PP. 177.16 - 188.9   (SAMPLE 2)^]

[^THE PLACE NAME RENDERED AS Bacein IS TYPED WITH
c CEDILLA IN THE EDITION^]
<S SAMPLE 1>
<P I,182>
[}CHAP. II.
IS A SURVEY OF THE ISLAND OF CANOREIN NEAR BOMBAIM.}]

   Upon these scores it was not long before I was employed
to wait on the Father Superior of the (^North^) , a Learned
Man, and a (^Spaniard^) by Nation, of the Order of the
Jesuits.
   The President commanded his own  (^Baloon^) (a Barge of
<P I,183>
State, of Two and twenty Oars) to attend me and one
of the Council, to compliment the Father on the Island of
(^Canorein^) , parted from (^Bombaim^) by a Stream half a Mile
broad: Near our Landing-place stood a College, not
inferior to the Building, nor much unlike those of our
Universities, belonging to the Jesuits here, more commonly
callen (^Paulistines^) (whose Visitor was now my Patient),
who live here very sumptuously, the greatest part of the
Island being theirs. Our Entertainment was truly Noble,
and becoming the Gravity of the Society. After I had
done my Duty, the Fathers accompanied us to the Barge;
afore the College-Gate stood a large Cross, thwack'd full of
young Blacks singing Vespers: The Town is large, the
Houses tiled; it is called (^Bandora^) .
   At our department they gave us Seven Guns, which
they have planted on the Front of their College for
their own Defence, besides they are fitted with good store
of Small Arms: Following therein the Advice given by
a Statesman to the King of (^Spain^) , about the                #
(^Netherlands^) ;
That (^if the Society of the^) Loyolists (^were multiplied,     #
their
Convents might serve for Castles^) .
<P I,184>
   In the middle of the River we had a pleasant Prospect
on both sides; on (^Bandora^) side, the College, the Town,
the Church of St. (^Andrew^) a Mile beyond, and upon the
Hill that pointed to the Sea, the (^Aquada^) , Blockhouse,
and a Church; on the other side, the Church of (^Maijm^) ,
with other handsome Buildings.
   Curiosity led me a second time to visit the Island
(^Canorein^) , having obtained leave for a longer Stay: nor
went I alone, some of the best Quality on the Island being
led by the same desire, joining themselves with me: We
carried a Train of Servants, Horses, and (^Palenkeens^) , which
were ferried over before us; and we coming soon after,
were met by the Fraternity, and conducted to the Fathers,
who detained us till Afternoon by a stately Banquet,
shewing us the Civility of the Church and College,
diverting us both with Instrumental and Vocal Musick,
and very good Wine.
   After which we were dismiss'd and four Mile off
(^Bandora^) were stopp'd by the Kindness of the (^Padre^)       #
-Superior, 
whose Mandate whereever we came caused them
to send his (^Recarders^) (a Term of Congratulation, as we
say, (^Our Service^) ) with the Presents of the best Fruits
and Wines, and whatever we wanted.
<P I,185>
   Here, not adjoining to any Town, in a sweet Air, stood
a Magnificent Rural Church; in the way to which, and
indeed all up and down this Island, are pleasant (^Aldeas^) ,
or Country Seats of the Gentry; where they live like
Petty-Monarchs, all that is born on the Ground being
theirs, holding them in a perfect state Villainage, they
being Lords Paramount.
   From hence, when we had baited, the same Night we
travelled easily to (^Magatana^) , using our Fowling-Pieces
all the way, being here presented with Rich Game, as
Peacocks, Doves, and Pigeons, (^Chitrels^) , or Spotted Deer.
   When we came to the Town, two several Churches
strove to receive us; but having some Acquaintance with
the Father of the one, and not with the other, we excused
ourselves to the latter, and took up with our Friend. As
soon as we came in, the Servitors fetch'd us warm Water
to wash our Feet, which was very refreshing; it put
me in mind of (^Lot's^) Courtesy to the Angels. After this,
as a piece of extraordinary Civility, they showed us the
Necessary House; and it is so in a Countrey where Fluxes
are so common; and for that reason it is kept as neat
as their Lodging Rooms, having Water to Wash after
you have used a clean Towel hung there for that Purpose.    
   This Night we fared very well. Next Morn before
Break of Day we directed our Steps to the anciently
fam'd, but now ruin'd City of (^Canorein^) ; the way to it
<P I,186>
is so delightsome, I thought I had been in (^England^) ; fine
Arable, Pasture, and Coppices; thus we passed Five Mile
to the Foot of the Hill on which the City stands, and
had passed half a Mile through a thick Wood, peopled
by Apes, Tygers, wild Buffolo's, and Jackalls; here were
some Flocks of Parockets: When we alighted, the Sun
began to mount the (^Horizon^) over the Hills, and under
our Feet, as if he had newly bathed his fiery Coursers,
there appeared the Mouth of a (^Tank^) , or Aqueduct, out of
a Rock, whose steaming Breath was very hot, but water
cold: From hence it is thought the whole City to be
supplied with Water; for as we ascend, we find such
Places, where convenient, filled with Limpid Water, not
over-matched in (^India^) : If it be so, (as I know not how
to contradict it) that it should have its Current upwards
through the hard Rocks artificially cut, the World cannot
parallel so wonderful a Water-course!
   From hence the Passage is uneasy and inaccessible for
more than two abreast, till we come to the City, all cut
out of a Rock; where it is presented (^Vulcan's^) Forge,        #
supported
by two mighty Colosses, bellied in the middle
with two Globes. Next a Temple with a beautiful
Frontispiece not unlike the (^Portuco^) of St. (^Paul's^)       #
(^West
Gate^) : Within the Porch on each side stand two Monstrous
Giants, where two Lesser and one Great Gate give 
a noble Entrance; it can receive no Light but at the Doors
and Windows of the Porch, whereby it looks more
solemnly; the Roof is Arched, seeming to be born up by
huge Pillars of the same Rock, some Round, some Square,
34 in number. The (^Cornish^) Work of Elephants, Horses,
Lions; at the upper end it rounds like a Bow; near where
stands a great Offertory somewhat Oval, the Body of it
<P I,187>
without Pillars, they only making a narrow Piatzo about,
leaving the Nave open: It may be an 100 Feet in Length,
in Height 60 feet or more.
   Beyond this, by the same Mole-like Industry, was
worked out a Court of Judicature (as those going to
shew it will needs give Names) or Place of Audience,
50 Feet square, all bestuck with Imagery, well Engraven
according to old Sculpture. On the Side, over against
the Door, sate one Superintendent, to whom the (^Brachmin^)
went with us, paid great Reverence, not speaking of him
without a token of worship; whom we called (^Jougy^) , or
the Holy Man; under this the way being made into
handsome Marble Steps, are the King's Stables, not
different from the Fashion of our Noblemens Stables, only
at the head of every Stall seems to be a (^Dormitory^) , or
Place for Devotion, with Images, which gave occasion to
doubt if ever for that End; or rather made for an Heathen
Seminary of Devotes, and these their Cells or Chappels,
and the open Place their Common Hall or School: More
aloft stood the King's Palace, large, stately and magnificent,
surrounded with lesser of the Nobility.
   To see all, would require a Month's time; but that
we might see as much as could be in our allotted time,
we got upon the highest part of the Mountain, where
we feasted our Eyes with unnumerable Entrances of these
Cony-burrows, but could not see one quarter part. Whose
Labour this should be, or for what purpose, is out of
memory; but this Place by the (^Gentiles^) is much adored:
Some contend for (^Alexander^) , and as a proof, think they
have said enough, when it is received by Tradition, that
<P I,188>
a great Gap out of a Solid Rock was cut by him to
make this an Island: But this is contradictory to the
Story delivered of (^Alexander^) , That he sailed up            #
(^Indus^) ,
and encountred (^King Porus^) , of whom some little Remains   
may be collected, they speaking of that King by the Name
of (^Por^) in (^Cambaia^) , where (^Alexander^) landed with     #
his Army;
and followed the Course of (^Indus^) , directly contrary to     #
this
Place, that lying (^North-East^) , this (^South^) from thence;  #
nor
do we read his stay in (^India^) was so long, to atchieve
such Acts as these, this Place being not the only Instance
of this nature; but more probable to be an Heathen (^Fane^) ,
or Idolatrous Pagod, from the Superstitious Opinion they
still hold of its Sacredness: Wherefore the (^Portugals^) , who
are now Masters of it, strive to erace the remainders of
this (^Herculean^) Work, that it may sink into the oblivion of
its Founders.
   Returning to (^Magatana^) , we spent some days in riding
about the Country, which we found every-where provided
with Churches.
   The Chief City of this Island is (^Tanaw^) : In which
are Seven Churches and Colleges, the chiefest one of the
(^Paulistines^) ; the Houses Tiled, but low: Here are made
good Stuffs of Silk and Cotton.
   There is another great Town called (^Mein^) , where is a
<P I,189>
Castle and some Soldiers, towards the Sea; over against
(^Bacein^) there is another Fort and (^Aquada^) .
   The (^Portugals^) suffer none but Christians here: It has
no Rivers, but only Inlets of the Sea; but good Springs
from the Rocks; the Ground excellently fertile, either
of it self, or by the care of the Inhabitants; that it
yields as good Cabbages, Coleworts, and better Rhadishes
than ever I yet saw: Besides Garden-Fruit, here are
incomparable Water-Melons, and Onions as sweet, and as
well tasted as an Apple; and for the natural growth of the
Soil, it is known not only to supply the adjoining Islands,
but (^Goa^) also. It is more than 20 Miles in Length, and
70 in Circumference.

[}CHAP. III.
A VISIT TO BACEIN, A PORTUGAL CITY IN INDIA; OUR RETURN BY      #
ELEPHANTO,
AND THE PUTACHOS, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE ISLAND BOMBAIM.}]

   The several (^Capitaneos^) of the (^Portugals^) are          #
(^Triennial^) ,
which are the Alternate Governments entailed on the
Families of the Conquerors, and therefore made Circular;
every one in his course having his turn to rule in some
Place or other for Three Years, and upon these they can
borrow or take up Mony as certain as upon their Hereditary 
<P I,190>
Estates the next Incumbent being Security for the
payment: Pursuant to this, a new Governour coming to
(^Choul^) , his Honour the President sent to congratulate him;
and the Admiral of the (^North^) coming to (^Bacein^) ,         #
another
was sent on the same Message.
   Nor could the hot Months be over, before (^John de
Mendos^) , of a Noble Family, sent for me to (^Bacein^) for
the cure of his only Daughter, illustriously born, handsome,
and on the point of Marriage with the Admiral of the
(^North^) , though not full Twelve years old.
   Leaving (^Bombaim^) , at this time of the year, we could go
either within or without; but the first being related to
be pleasantest I chose that way; sailing by (^Trumbay^) ,
where we receive Custom, we might see a comely Church
and (^Aldea^) : At Noon we reached (^Tanaw^) : Having gained
our Passage over the Flats, we made no stay, but rowed
streight to (^Bacein^) ; every half Mile we were presented
with fresh Prospects of delicate Country-Mansions; two
of which of special note draw the Eyes of the Beholders;
one of (^John de Melos^) , three Mile off (^Tanaw^) , it        #
standing
high, curiously built, has a Terras Descent with Walks
and Gardens half a Mile, till it lead to a spacious             #
Banquetting-house 
over the Water, with Stone-stairs for
Landing: Beyond it a Mile, on the side of an Hill, stands
(^Grebondel^) , a large neat built Town of (^Martin 
Alphonso's^) ;
<P I,191>
and at top of all, His House, Fort and Church, of as stately
Architecture as (^India^) can afford; he being the Richest
Don on this side (^Goa^) . Here we are Land-locked by the
Gut, which is fabled to be made by (^Alexander^) ; from
which we have an open passage to (^Bacein^) , it lying bare
towards the Sea.

[}BACEIN.}]

   Is incircled with a round Stone-wall, and has a Gate for
every Wind; it is strong enough against the (^Indians^) , but
not able to endure an (^European^) Foe: There are upon
the Out-walls, and in the Fort, Forty two great Guns; the
Fort in the middle of the City is circular; towards the
Market appears a State-house Piatzed, where the Governour
convocates the (^Fidalgos^) every Morning upon consultation,
in which they all stand, a Chair not being permitted
the Governour, though Gouty: Towards Evening they
meet there to Game.
<P I,192>
   Within the Walls are six Churches, four Convents, two
Colleges, one of the (^Jesuits^) , another of the               #
(^Franciscans^) .
It bears the Name of an Academy; the Students are
instructed in the (^Jesuits^) College, but live in Town: Where
is a Library, with Classes of Historians, Moralists,            #
Expositors,
and no more. It is a College of Polite Structure,
in the (^Portuco^) is a Copy of (^Angelos^) , representing the
Resurrection; above Stairs, as well as below, are fine
square Cloisters, as all their Collegiate Churches have
on the sides whereof are their Cells; they have a spacious
Refectory, and a goodly Church; three parts of the City
is devoted to their use.
   The (^Fidalgos^) (for few Artisans are tolerated within the
Walls) have stately Dwellings, graced with covered Balconies,
and large Windows two Stories high, with Panes
of Oister shell, which is their usual Glazing among them
in (^India^) , or else Latised. They shew their Greatness
by their number of (^Sumbreeroes^) and (^Cofferies^) , whereby
it is dangerous to walk late for fear of falling into
the Hands of those Pilfering Abusive Rascals. None but
Christians lodge within the City, the (^Banyans^) repairing
to the Suburbs upon (^Tattoo^) . The City is a Mile and
half round; it stands on an Island, separated by a small
Channel from the Main, as far off the Island (^Canorein^) , as
(^Canorein^) from (^Bombaim^) , and parted after the like       #
nature.
   The Land about is plain, and fruitful of Sugar-Canes,
Rice, and other Grain; a great part of which has lately
been destroyed by the (^Arabs^) of (^Muschat^) , who put them   #
to
a sore fright in (^Bacein^) : and this is done often, setting   #
fire
to their Villages, and carrying away their (^Fidalgos^)
Prisoners, together with their Wives and Families, butchering
<P I,193>
the (^Padres^) , and robbing the Churches without resistance,
conceived on a deadly Feud, partly out of revenge 
of the (^Portugal^) Cruelties at (^Muschat^) ; but chiefly out  #
of
detestation of each other's Religion; insomuch that Quarter
is denied on either side: But that on this Pretence. The
(^Portugals^) striving to possess themselves of (^Muschat^) ,   #
were
put to such stress, that had not their (^Armado^) come to
their relief, they must have desisted their Enterprize:
Upon the arrival whereof the new Recruits gained so
much on the (^Arab^) Governour, that he yielded up the
otherwise invincible Fort of (^Muschat^) ; where the            #
(^Portugals^)
acting all nefarious Outrages, contrary to their Promise,
the (^Arabs^) re-armed themselves with Courage and fresh
Succors, and at length beat them from hence to (^Ormus^) in
the Gulf of (^Persia^) ; from whence also they were routed by
the help of the (^English^) (we then being at war with them);
the first blow to their Greatness in these Parts.
   To check these Incursions of the (^Arabs^) , the             #
(^Portugals^)
every Year are at the charge of a lusty Squadron in these
Seas, which were those we met on the Coast returning
from thence; who were no sooner gone, than the (^Arabs^)
sent their Fleet to do this Mischief here; which now 'tis
done, they are again in quest of them, but they fly as often
as these pursue. 

<S SAMPLE 2>
<P II,177>
[}CHAP. II.
OUR SETTING FORTH FROM GOMBROON, AND LEAVING LHOR.}]

   At last the Heavens drop Fatness, and the Showers
refresh the Earth, and fill the Tanks with purer
Water, washing away the old Filth and Nastiness contracted
by the former indispositions of the Seasons.
   And now we having this Opportunity, set forward
towards the Evening of the 28=th= of (^June^) , the Ships in    #
the
Road Saluting us, and the Merchants, both (^French^) and
(^Dutch^) , Conducting us onward of our Way, with Pomp and
Ceremony, till we came to the Garden out of the City,
where we entertained them with a Sumptuous Treat, and
took our Leaves; they returning to (^Gombroon^) , and we
going on Three (^Pharsangs^) that Night to (^Band Ally^) ,
<P II,178>
Inhabited only by Poor People, in pitiful Cabbins covered
with the Palm-Tree Boughs, by the Sea-side, expecting
Profit, as well by Strangers as by Fishery; these Houses
are placed on Wheels, to draw up and down at their
Pleasure.
   (^Band Ally^) is the (^Chast Ally^) , to whom this (^Caravan
Seraw^) is Dedicated, in the same manner as we our
Churches and places Sacred, to our Saints in Commemoration
of them. (^Caravan Seraw^) , signifies no more than an
Inn, (^viz. Ser^) , the Head, (^Raw^) , of the Way.
   For this Journy we have no Wains for our Baggage, or
Chariots for our selves; we Ride on Horseback, and our
Sumpters are Loaded on Mules, Asses, or Camels, which
march toward Evening and Travel till Morning; We go
but slowly by reason of our Beasts of Burthen, though a
greater part of them were dispatched a Month before us by
another Road, less Mountainous, though farther about.
   Coming to our Inns, we have no Host, or Young
Damosels to bid us Welcome, nor other Furniture than
Bare Walls; no rooms Swept, nor Cleanly Entertainment,
Tables neatly Spred, or Maidens to Attend with Voice or
Lute to Exhilarate the Weary Passenger; but instead
of these, Apartments covered with Dung and Filth;
Musick indeed there is of Humming Gnats pricking us to
<P II,179>
keep an unwilling Measure to their Comfort: So that here
is neither Provision for Man or Beast, only an open
House, with no enlivening Glass of Pontack, or Poinant
Cheer to encourage the Badness of the March; but every
Four or Five (^Pharsangs, i.e. Parasangae^) , a (^German^)      #
League,
on the King's High way, a (^Caravan Ser Raw^) , as dirty as
(^Augeus^) his Stable, those before always leaving the next
comer work enough to cleanse where they have been; that
after coming in Tired, they are more intent to spread their
Carpets for Repose, than remove the incrustated Cake
of Sluttery, the constant Nursery of Flies and Beetles,
they often bringing their Horses into the same Bed-Chamber.
   These Houses Built by Charitable Persons, are always
supplied with Tanks and Cisterns, which now run over
since yesterdays Rain, and are commonly very Fine and
Costly; but other Commodities we must bring with us,
otherwise we are likely not only to go to Bed on the bare
Ground, but depart more Hungry than we came thither
(very few Places maintaining Sutlers for Horse-meat, or
Diet for the Wayfaring Man): Therefore when we undertake
this Journy, we carry not only all our Family, but
Housholdstuff too; for which every one has a separate
Allowance for his Servant and his Baggage, and a Butler
in common, who Mounts the (^Trojan^) Horse, supplied with
Bread, Wine, Salt, Cold Meat, Knives and Napkins for the
(^Viaticum^) , in Two Canisters, or Chests hung on each side
one, under whose Belly is girt a (^Metarrah^) , or Goat Skin
full of Wine, and another of Water; a (^Metarrah^) full of the
latter every one ties to his Horses Saddle, in the fashion of
a Leathern Bottel, and a Silver Toss, or Cup, in a Case at
<P II,180>
the Bow of the Saddle: In the middle of the (^Munsel^)
( (^i.e.^) a whole Day's Journy) the Butler alights, and by     #
some
advantageous Brook, or Tank, spreads a Table on the
Ground, while the whole (^Caphala^) refresh: (We generally
make our (^Munsel^) from Four in the Afternoon till before
Four in the Morning) when after a Glass of Wine, and
the Fragments of yesterdays Provisions, we betake our
selves to Rest with much eagerness, if it be possible among
so many strange Customs at first; as Noise of Carriers
Bells, Feeding, Neighing, Breying, and Noise of so many
Creatures, Loading and Unloading, with the Singing,
Chatting, and Din of Servants, Horse-keepers and
Muliteers; but Custom makes all things familiar and easy,
that we generally Repose till Two the next Day; when
our Cook has provided not only our Dinner (which is as
Sumptuous as if at Home, and brought in with the same
Order) but furthermore, our necessary Provant for the
ensuing Day's Journy; and after this manner are we fitted
to measure out our future Hardships.
   Hither the (^Banyans^) , or (^English^) Brokers, Accompanied
us, they taking their Leave for the Port, we keeping on our
Course, Three (^Englishmen^) with our Retinue answerable to
the Quality of each; we had with us Twenty Camels for
Lumber, Fifteen Horses, Three Mules, and Two Asses,
besides Three (^Shotters^) for our Guides, which are the only
<P II,181>
Men here also, who wear Plumes of Feathers in their
Turbats, small Bells about their Wastes, Truncheons in
their Hands, Horse-Cloaths over their Shoulders richly
Embroidered on Scarlet, Packthread Shoes on their Feet,
and close Jerkins with Breeches below their Knees; these
are our Guides, and hold our Horses while we Mount, look
after them and the Equipments, as Bridles and Furniture,
(the most mean of which are Silver) when we alight; and
are not only swift, but lasting Footmen.
   Beginning to set forward, neither Tract nor Road was
followed, all being covered with Sand; but our Guides
steered by their own Experience; this was not so
comfortable, to behold nothing but a Sea of Sand; for now
we began to turn our back upon the Gulf, and steer a more
(^Northern^) Course, from whence to reflect what Sustenance
this barren Earth could produce, that, should our Stores
fail, we might want; yet even for this Jealousy we had not
the least shadow of Reason, for had we been less provided
we might have met with Plenty, every one striving to Vend
us Necessaries, to the no small encrease of my amazement
how they came by them.
   After we had waded through Two (^Pharsangs^) of this
Desolate Way, we began to Clamber up those Hills, which
seem hanging over the Road of (^Gombroon^) , now beating the
Hoof on more solid Rocks: In this Passage we could here
and there descry some Groves of Palms, whose Fruit were
tinctured with a Cherry Red, the constant forerunner
of their full Maturity; at which time they look for the
same Unhealthiness we do in our Autumn; though I find
<P II,182>
them not so superstitiously addicted to Symbols, as the
(^Egyptians^) to their Hieroglyphicks, they express the Year
by this Tree; because this Tree, say they, of all others
alone (which I before noted of the Coco-Nut Tree, and
therefore I think it a kind of Palm) at every appearance
of the New Moon procreates a fresh Branch, by which
Twelve Productions the whole Year is resembled and
compleated; the Trees are Tall and Slender, bearing
their Boughs all atop, like a shady Tuft, some standing
bolt upright, and others spread abroad, with others flagging
and ready to give way to the Birth of more; when they
are Young and in their Infancy, they no sooner sprout up
but the prickly Leafs guard its tender Head, which is of a 
pithy substance, and when Wounded spoils the Trees
Growth, so that it Dies; but while it escapes that danger,
it rises by degrees after the former Order, the under
Branches bowing Archwise to their upstart Youngsters;
the Leafs are set in Rows like Ribs to a great Spine,
arising from a Circular Base, till it end in a sharp Point; 
under these Boughs the mighty Branches hang full of
Dates in Clusters, and which is more than (^say so^) ,

(^The more they'r Burthened better do they Thrive,
Like depress'd Virtue better kept alive.^)

So patient under great Loads of this Fruit, that they seem
to rejoyce with a more chearful Verdure, and unconcerned
reject the withered Boughs, whilst a more lively Product
makes them glad by a new Succession; by which means
it keeps Green the whole Course of the Year.
   Nor when the old ones fall, are these only fit for the
Fire; for they being orderly laid, and finely Gilded or
Painted between the Beams of the same Wood, supply
the Ceilings and other adornments of their best Houses;
<P II,183>
nor are they less serviceable to Thatch their meaner
Cottages: The Trunk being deprived of those Combings,
from the main Head is beheld a flourishing Peruke of
Palms, fit to be worn by the greatest Heroes; from whence
downwards without any Sprouts, it appears all in Coat
of Mail Cap-a-pee, or like a Pine-Apple from its scaly
Structure, caused by the falling of the precedent Branches,
by which compactness it emulates its Conelike Figure.
   Of these Trees there are Male and Female, and which
is worthy our Notice, the Female Palms (which only Bear)
will not Bring forth before they are Impregnated at the
Roots with the Seed of the Male, first pounded into Meal
and sprinkled about them; which how true I dispute not;
but certainly Tradition has confirmed the Practice, and
they are not to be persuaded to neglect the Custom.
   In the midst of this Days (^Munsel^) , among the Mountains
we passed by the Mouth of an horrid Cave; where
they entertain Travellers with Tragick Stories, and a Legend
of Fables, as that it is the Road to Hell; for, say they,
whoever Enters never Returns; as if thence had arose the
Proverb, (^No Redemption from the Shades^) ; or that of the 
Poet,

(\--- Facilis descensus Averni;
Sed revocare gradus, hic labor, hoc opus est.\)

Easy the Descent's to Hell, but back again
Our steps to call, this is the Work, the Pain.
<P II,184>
But it stuck not on my Fancy, who had been informed
of Pleasanter Stages on that Journy, and an higher way to
more open Doors.

(\--- Patet Atri janua Ditis.\)

Hell Gate wide open stands.

But it may more probably be an Invention to fright Passengers
into the right Way, and that they should avoid, by
so sad and terrible a Remark, the wrong, which would
wilder them in an unlucky Maze; for here the Way was
not only Intricate but Difficult; whereby I was encouraged
to auspicate a more Coelestial Path might lead
us to (^Getche^) , in the (^Turkish^) Language signifying a     #
(^Goat^)
Village; which was on Wheels, as the other, being not 
Twenty Miles distant; it is in a Sandy Valley full of
Shrubs, on which the Camels Feed, but the Asses, Mules,
and Horses, on Barly and chopt Straw; (the (^Persians^)
learn'd the (^Indians^) how to Treat their Horses; where
having declared the manner, I forbear here, it being exactly
the same) for these Eight or Nine (^Munsels^) they care 
not to House them, but only Cover them with (^Yawpengees^) ,
<P II,185>
or Horse-Cloths, and expose them to the open Air; which
is not so Unhealthy for them, as for Human Bodies, who
carefully prevent such Lodgings for fear of Aches, and
other Inconveniences incident thereupon; wherefore in the
middle of the Vale we repaired to the (^Caravan Ser Raw^) ,
almost buried in the Sand, it being the only obstacle to
their rowling Billows.
   The next Morn we were waited on by the Country
Women bringing us Cheese, and Butter made before our
Eyes, with no other Churn than a Goatskin, in which they
shook the Milk till Butter came; Fish, Roots, and Herbs,
with all sorts of Pullen: In these Two (^Munsels^) we only
meet with these Servitors, in other Places Men appear
alone, not allowing their Women that Freedom; but were
they no more tempting than these Swains, they'd have
small cause for the Restriction; for they are Strapping
Sunburnt Lasses, with little more Cloaths on than a dark
coloured Smock, or Frock; and for their Meen it is not
enticing; these bring us Water to Drink out of their Tanks,
newly filled, which was Thick, Troubled, and Slimy; for
which reason the Vapours, or rather Fumes from the Sun's
violence, were very Offensive, and the more irksome, because
we were constrained to tarry here another Night, for that
the River (^Rute Conna Shure^) ; or Salt-Water, was now
overflown by the Waters falling from the Mountains beyond
the Banks to that excess, that it could not be Forded by
Travellers, and the Stream ran with that Rapidness, that
it was unsafe to venture over till the descending Cataracts
<P II,186>
had left off pouring on the overswell'd Brinks, and emptied
themselves into the wider Gulf, not many Leagues distant
hence.
   The Day after, as soon as we heard the Waters were
abated, we set forward, and found it true what had been
reported (Three (^Caphala's^) not daring to pass the Lake,
where they had lain some Days, till we had led the way).
It was sultry Hot when we assayed to go, but Delays
in this case were dangerous; besides, we were uncertain
whether it would hold up should we tarry, which made us
confide on our Guides, who gave us assurance, that the
Marshes were passable; we were more troubled with Waves
of Sand than Water, both which, by Rain, or Wind, keep
on their course with some noise till silenced in the            #
(^Persian^)
Gulf.
   Athwart this Fen, which was upward of Three Miles,
was Built not long since, as by the Modern Architecture
may be guessed, a stately Stone Bridge with Arches, on
which high Banisters with Niches, and a brave paved
Cawsey Elegantly Built, which kept pace with us, but by
the Negligence of these People, as well as Injury of Floods
and Sands, it was broke down in several places, especially
where the Torrent made the deepest Channel, so that
though firm and strong in the greatest part of it, yet
by its being ruined in the most needful, it is become
impassable; and though a Work of extraordinary Benefit
and Charge, yet already rendred of little Use.
<P II,187>
   The rest of this day's Journy was between the Mountains,
where we were encounter'd by strange Flashes of
Lightning, the Foretellers of this Night's Rain, which we
hardly escaped before we came to (^Caurestan^) , in all Twenty
Miles: This (^Caravan Ser Raw^) is named from a Tree
growing here, and a Village properly so called (of which
it is a Composition in (^Persian^) ), it being the first we met
with whose Houses were fixed.  
   The following Day we continued going between two
Chains of Dry and Burnt Hills, through a stony Valley,
not without fear of suffocating, although it was near Evening
e're we set out, and Yesterday's Showers had benignly
distilled on the Fiery Drought, to cool the parched Earth:
But this is the dreadful Vale, where when the Hot (^North^)
Winds blow at this time, it sweeps both Men and Beasts
away, either by Night or Day, the Heat being as intense
and as intolerable as that from the Mouth of an Oven: We
were conducted through this Furnace by the Divine Protection
(without being put to make use of the common
Remedy in this Exigency, which is, upon perceiving of
the hot Blasts, to cast our selves flat on the Ground till
they are over, thereby to prevent the Fate attending those
who refuse to stoop to this known Prescription, which is, to
fall down dead, never to rise more alive), till we were
<P II,188>
mounted where these two Chains are linked to each other,
and by their mutual Ascent we were lift up on high, and
then gently descending we were led down to (^Goorbazergum^) ,
Fifteen miles from (^Caurestan^) .
   In this Bottom is a solitary Inn, very commodiously
seated; it is surrounded with Mountains, at whose Bottoms
are store of Water-Melons, a grateful Cooler in this Extremity
of Heat: (^Goor-Bazergum^) is as it were to say, (^The
Merchants Grave^) , in the (^Persian^) Tongue.



