<B SHAND3B>
<Q SC3 EX HANDO REID>
<N SCOTS GARDENER>
<A REID JOHN>
<C SC3>
<O DATE 1683>
<M MEDIUM PRINTED>
<D CSC>
<V PROSE>
<T HANDB OTHER>
<G X>
<F X>
<W WRITTEN>
<X MALE>
<Y 20-40>
<H OTHER GARDENER>
<U NET PUBLIC>
<E X>
<J X>
<I X>
<Z EXPOS>
<S SAMPLE X>

[^REID, JOHN.
THE SCOTS GARD'NER. THE GARD'NERS KALENDAR.
EDINBURGH: DAVID LINDSAY, AND HIS PARTNERS, 1683. 
SAMPLE 1: PP. 22.6-38.17
SAMPLE 2: PP. 87.1-99.13^]

[^AFTER PAGE 93, THE ERRONEOUS PAGE NUMBERING OF THE ORIGINAL
PRINT HAS BEEN CORRECTED.^]

<S SAMPLE 1>
<P 22>
[}CHAP. V.}]
[}HOW TO MAKE THE KITCHEN GARDEN.}]

THE Kitchen-Garden is the best of all Gardens, but to returne. 
In all Gardens it is ordinary first to make a Bordure at 
the Wall. Secondly a walke. And thridly a Bordure on the other
side thereof; here, the walke with a Bordure on each side of    #
it,
going round the whole plot, Parallel to the Wall: but if your
ground be large enough, I bid you make a distance Intercept     #
betwixt
the walk and the Wall. Its also ordinary to divide the Garden 
into four plots, by two walkes crossing from side to side: but  #
I 
am not for any cross walkes in Gardens; yet if you would have 
more than one, (which divides the whole into two parts) then    #
make
them all one way through the plot leading to the House, and     #
equidistant
from the midle, still making the gates, doors or entries 
Front the walkes. 
   In your Kitchen-plots, & in Nurseries for Trees, plant no    #
Trees 
through the ground: for when they grow up, they cover and 
choak the ground so, that you will be necessitate to seek for   #
another.
Therefore, make only three Bordures next and Parallel to the 
walkes round on each hand: plant the first or that next the     #
walke
on both sides, with a holly Hedg, the second with Goosberries 
and currans, the thrid with dwarff Trees, the ground all open   #
and
void within for Kitchen-herbes and Roots; which must be         #
orderly 
<P 23>
divided into ridges; and these again divided into Beds,         #
Furrowes, 
and Drills for your more orderly and convenient planting and    #
sowing.
As for the proportion note that. 
   2. The walkes must be in breadth according to their length   #
(^viz.^)
1000 foot long, 30 foot broad, 500 foot long, 20 foot broad, 
250 in length, 15 in breadth, 100 foot long, 10 foot broad. 
   The Bordures 6 foot broad, the Tables or Pathes betwixt the 
Bordures 2 foot broad, and these betwixt the level-Ridges       #
(wherein 
the ground is divided) 3 foot broad, the Beds 6 foot broad with 
foot and half furrowes; you may make 7 of them Beds in each     #
Ridg, 
and the whole length of the plot all Running from the House:    #
but if 
your ground be small you may make your Bordures and Beds        #
narrower, 
yet still let the whole plot, Ridges, Bordures, and Beds
be equally divided, and their Areas or Edges three Inches       #
higher
than the furrows or pathes, and so much higher than the side    #
of 
walkes, as the middle of the walk is higher than its sides,     #
all handsomly
clapt up with the Rakehead, by a line: (and the like order 
you may observe in your seminaries and Nurseries of Trees)      #
then 
plant and sow by lines and Drills, both for beauty and          #
conveniency. 
   When you would do this, divide the Bed, Bordure or Ridg at   #
both 
ends into so many equal parts: (by help of the long Rule and    #
small
sticks) then streatch on the line from end to end by these      #
sticks, and 
with the corner of the Rule make a marke by the line, and       #
therein 
set your Herbes and Plants; and for setting of seeds, measure   #
out, 
and streatch on the line as before, and with the setting stick  #
make 
the holes by the line (not too deep) and therein put the        #
seeds. And 
if you sow in drills, make a scratch or little ebb gutter with  #
the point 
of the stick by the line, and therein sow. If the rowes be two  #
foot
distance, let the first be one foot within the edg; if 6        #
Inches sundry
make them 3 Inches off the edge, and so proportionally. Note, 
that I have told the distances of each sort Kitchen-herbes and  #
Fruits 
part 2. Chap. 6. where is intended 6 foot broad beds, but       #
where 
they are less, there must be fewer rowes. 
<P 24>
   3. The Kitchen Garden may be placed, its half on each side   #
the 
House and Courts,  and when you plant or sow, place every       #
species 
by themselves (except such mixture as is mentioned part 2. 
Chap. I. Sect. 3.) and where you have not a whole Ridge or at   #
least 
a bed of a kind, you may compleat them with such as are         #
nearest of
growth and continuance: also plant them of long last, and them 
that must be yearly renewed severally, each in Ridges or beds   #
by 
themselves orderly; the order is to make every sort oppose it   #
self. 
Example if you plant a Ridge of Artichocks on the one hand,     #
plant 
another at the same place on the other: and still where you     #
have
perennialls on the one side, set the same sort at the same      #
place on 
the other; and so of Annualls. In short, what ever you have on 
the one side, you should have the same in every circumstance    #
on 
the other. Perennialls are such plants as continues many years  #
in 
the ground, Annualls are such as usually dy immediatly after    #
once
they bear seed, and that is usually (tho~ not universally) the  #
first or second
year. 
   4. As for physical plot you may have them in that ridge of   #
the 
Kitchen Garden next the Bordures: and if you will to have no    #
other 
pleasure Garden, you may have Flowers there, and on the         #
Bordures 
next the walkes also: and that ridge or Intervall betwixt the 
walke and Wall will be excellent for all early, rare and        #
tender plants. 
You may rill your Physick Herbes in Tribes and Kindreds,        #
planting
every Tribe by themselves, and you may also place one of 
each kind in the Alphabetical order. 
   5. How to order hedges, see part 2. Chap. 4. as for Walls, 
Brick is best, next is Stone and Lime; 4 Ells is low enough, 5  #
or 
6 if you please: but if you would make the South-looking Wall 
semicircles in it, that would conduce much to the advantadge of 
the Fruit, as well as Hot-beds under it; The distance of        #
Wall-trees 
will Informe you what quantity to make them, as for example 15 
foot is the distance of Cherries and Plumes, (except such as    #
the
(^May^) -cherrie which being Dwarfish requires less) 18 foot    #
for Apricoks
& Peaches, 20 foot for Aples, 24 for Pears. Therefore if you 
<P 25>
make the semicircumference 18 foot for Apricoks and Peaches, 
(you may plant two Dwarff Cherries therein) then 36 is the      #
whole
Perifery, and as 22 is to 7: so is 36 the Perifery to 11 1/2    #
fere the 
Diameter; and having the Diameter you may easily make any 
part of the Circle: and let the plain or straight Wall betwixt  #
each 
semicircle be just one Trees distance likewayes. 
   And also in straight Walls divide equally, and plant non in  #
the 
Corners, measure first off 6 foot on each side the gates or     #
doors for 
Honisuckles, Jasmines, &c. And whatever be the distance of 
your Trees, set them half therefrom, as also from the Corners, 
except where you make all their heads ply one way; (as on a     #
low 
Wall) such may stand three foot off the Corners, or             #
Honisuckles 
they lean from, and a whole distance off these they lean        #
towards.
You may plant a Goosberrie and curran in the intervalls of your 
Wall-trees while young, & when the Trees approach, remove       #
them. 
Let the Roots of your Wall-trees stand near a foot from the     #
Wall 
with their heads inclining towards the same. Wall-trees in      #
Orchards 
(whose Standards are in the Quincunx) should stand opposite 
to the mid intervall of the Standards. 
   The distance of Dwarff Standards is 16 foot where there is   #
but 
one row, and in following this Rule of the three Bordures,      #
they 
will stand just 16 foot off the Hedg, observing to plant in     #
the midle 
of the Bordures. The distance of Goosberries and currans 6      #
foot.
But in all your plantings and sowings divide the ground so as   #
each 
kind may stand & grow equally. 
   To conclude, these three Bordures going round at each side   #
of 
the walkes handsomly made up and planted, as aforesaid, will    #
secure
the ground within from hurtful winds and colds, and make
people keep the walkes (handsome pale doors being on the        #
entries of 
the Hedges) so as they may neither wrong you nor themselves.    #
Also 
the Hedge, Dwarff Standards, Shrubs, and Wall-trees being all 
well prun'd and plyed, with the Bordures and walkes clean and   #
orderly
kept, will make it look like a Garden of pleasure, and hide
all the Ruggedness that happeneth in Kitchen-ground by          #
delving, 
dunging, turning and overturning throughout the year. 
<P 26>
[}CHAP. VI.}]
[}HOW TO MAKE THE PLEASURE-GARDEN, &C.}]

Pleasure-Gardens useth to be divided into walkes and plots, 
with a Bordure round each plot, and at the corner of each, may 
be a holly or some such train'd up, some Pyramidal, others      #
Spherical,
the Trees and Shrubs at the Wall well plyed and prun'd, the 
Green thereon cut in several Figures, the walkes layed with     #
Gravel, 
and the plots within with Grass, (in several places whereof may
be Flower pots) the Bordures boxed, and planted with variety of
Fine Flowers orderly Intermixt, Weeded, Mow'd, Rolled, and 
kept all clean and handsome. 
   Plain draughts ar only in use, and most preferable; that     #
which 
I esteem is plain straight Bordures and Pathes running all one  #
way, 
that is, from the House with one walke patting it in the        #
midle, 
leading to the House door: and if the ground be large, you may 
make one round by the Wall too, as the pleasure Garden of fig.  #
I.
Let the Bordures and Pathes be both of a breadth, ( (^viz.^) 6  #
foot) 
box the Bordures, and plant them with Flowers, lay the pathes   #
as 
well as the walkes with Gravel, plant the Walls with Fruit and 
Flower-bearing Trees variously. 
   Outter Courts hath only one Bordure at the Wall, planted     #
with 
Laurels and other Greens, one Pathed or Brick-walk in the       #
midle, 
leading to the midle of the House-front with a long Grass plot  #
on 
each hand. 
   2. The Bordures of your Kitchen-Garden round by the walkes
may be boxed with (^Thyme^) , (^Lavendar^) , (^Hysop^) ,        #
(^Rue^) , &c. the 
next with (^Parsly^) , (^Strawberries^) , (^Violets^) ,         #
(^July-flowers^) , &c.
Cherrie-gardens and Physick-gardens with Sweet-brier often      #
cut, 
or (^Box^) cut three times (\Per annum\) as April, June,        #
August, minding
to cut their Roots at the inside every second year, that they   #
exhaust
not the strength or nourishment of the Flowers or Herbes. But 
<P 27>
that which I preferre for Flower-Gardens above all, is          #
(^Dwarff-Juniper^)
raised from the seed and Planted thus, When the ground 
is levelled, measure out the Bordures, (but raise them not      #
above the 
walkes, except you minde to lay gravel) streatch a line and     #
with the 
edge of the Rule mark alongst thereby, and therein set the      #
young 
sets of (^Box^) or the young Plants of (^Juniper^) at 2 years   #
grouth; then 
prepare the Bordures by delving in consum'd dung of Cowes and 
Sheep, covering on a little lime topt with a little sand, to    #
ly all summer,
kept clean from by hawing. At the beginning of winter delve 
and mix together, to ly all winter  un-Raked, and at the        #
Spring 
redelve, stirr and mix it throughly, and train and plant your   #
Flowers
and other Plants in their seasons. See Part 2. Chap:7. 
   3. In making the walkes in any Gardens, first level up the   #
Bordures
at its sides, secondly drive a Row of Stakes in the midle of    #
the 
walke, and level them accordingly (^i.e.^) streatch a line      #
cross the walke
betwixt the two level Bordures, and marke where it hits the     #
Stake 
in the midle of the walke; do this at both ends, and viewing    #
betwixt, 
will levell the rest, see the next Chap: of levelling. But you 
may mind, that the walk must rise a little in the midle, and    #
yet the 
midle of the walke, and top of the Boxing of the Bordure must   #
be
level, (^i.e.^) The Boxings so much above the side of the walk, #
as the 
midle of the walke is above its sides. Where your Boxing is     #
timber 
or Stone, fill up the bordure of Earth to the top thereof, but  #
where
your Boxing is box-juniper or the like, the Earth within the    #
bordure 
and edg of the walks and pathes without, must be equal. 
As for the rise or swell that walkes has which makes them       #
Segmenta 
Circuli, grass or brick walkes may have for 30 foot broad 6     #
Inches
rise, for 20 foot 4 Inches, 10 foot 2 Inches; and let gravel    #
have an 
Inch more proportionally: and it agrees with the rule of        #
proport:
in Arithmetick, as 20 is to 4: so is 30 to 6.If gravell of      #
brick walkes 
or pathes ly by the side of grass, make the grass half Inche    #
higher
than such. If the walke be Grass, make 2 foot Tables, or        #
pathes 
of gravel betwixt it and the Bordure.
<P 28>
   4. To lay grass, first level the ground, whither walke or    #
plot;
and its the better to ly a year so made up, before you lay the  #
turff;
because it may be levelled up again, if it sink unto holes: If  #
it ly wet, 
bottome with Stones and Rubish; and if the Earth be fat, take   #
it 
out, and put in sand; however lay a foot thick sand immediatly
under 
the Truff: then by the squair streatch lines, Ritt with the     #
Ritting 
Iron (which is  an half round put into the end of a crooked     #
stick) & 
raise the Turff with the Turff-Spade, (which is broad mouthed,
otherwise all one with the Husbandmens breast-Turffing-spade)   #
let 
the Turff be of equal thickness, near Inch and half thick, a    #
foot 
and half broad, and as much in length, lay their green sides    #
together,
when you put them in the cart, but do not Roll them when 
brought home, lay them all even and closs; Feeling each         #
particular 
Turff with your foot, so as you may discern any Inequallity, 
to be helped Immediatly, in laying still, beating every two     #
three 
rowes of turff while moist, with the Timber beatters, and when 
the whole is layed, and well beat, Roll well with the           #
Stone-Roller,
which should be as big as a hogsehead, The Spring and 
Autumne is the best time. And if you mind to keep a good pile   #
of 
Grass, suffer it never to grow Inch long: beat, mow, and Roll   #
often, 
especially in the mornings and moist weather. 
   5, But if you would lay the hard tile or brick walkes,       #
prepare 
as for Grass, minding it wants the breadth of the brick of the  #
true 
hight: for you must set them all on their edg closs by other    #
on a bed 
of lime, laying the side, each other Row crossing the ends of   #
the 
other, and place one in the midle of the walkes that both       #
sides may 
be Regular.
   6. To lay gravel, cleanse first the bottomes of the walkes   #
of fat 
Earth, and Root weeds, and bottom it with Stones; and lay over 
that about half a foot of clean round gravel, and about three   #
Inches 
top gravel of equal greatness which may be like beans and       #
pease:
you must make it thus equal by sifting, and so Rake, Tred, and 
beat; and when compleatly levelled, beatt well with the Timber 
beaters, while moist, then Roll soundly with the                #
Timber-Roller, 
<P 29>
and afterwards with the Stone-Roller, especially in Rain, for   #
which 
the spring and Autumn is best; but if dry weather, you must     #
dash 
water one the Roller (continually in Rolling) with the          #
watering pott, 
and if you ar forced to use Sea or water sand, you may beat 
some good clay to dust and mix with such, before you lay it;    #
weed,
and Roll frequently. 
   7. For the orderly planting of flowers there may be three    #
wayes, 
as first in the Bordures of pleasure Gardens or Courts, plant 5 
rowes in the bordure,  and Intermixe them orderly (^i.e.^)      #
divide and 
plant every sundry sort through the whole Garden at equal       #
distances, 
and not only so but every sundry colour thereof also; let       #
never 
two of a kind nor two of a colour stand together, without       #
other 
kinds and colours Interveening, so as there may not be two, 
three of a kind or Colour at one end, Bordure, Plot or Place,   #
and 
non thereof through the rest, but universally and ornamentally  #
Intermixt, 
and when you find a breach by some being past the flower, 
you may have various Annual Flowers sowen in potts, ready to 
plunge into the vacancies of the Bordures for continuing this   #
beauty. 
   Secondly, in my sort of flower Gardens which is Bordures     #
and 
pathes running all one way (^viz^) : from the House, Plant 5    #
rowes 
and intermix them, not as in the last way, but set 5 rowes of   #
each 
kind cross the Bordure, so as 25 of each sort may stand in a    #
Geometrical
squair. As if you set a squair of Tulips, a squair of Boarsears
squair of Crocuses, a squair of July Flowers, a squair of 
Anemonies, and a squair of Couslips: and so a squair of Tulips, 
another of Boars Ears, &c: Through that Bordure Intermixing 
the Colours of each sort, then may you make the next Bordure  
so Intermixt, but differing: minding that as you Intermix the 
Bulbous and Fibrous in each Bordure, so must they be also in    #
the 
crossing, that the squair of Fibrous in this may oppose the     #
squair of 
Bulbous in the next, and likewayes whatever Bordure such sorts 
ar in, on the one side of the walke, set the very same in the   #
Bordure
equidistant from the walke on the other side, that the whole    #
may
<P 30>
be Regular and uniformely Intermixt all the year, looking from  #
all 
sides, ends or Angles. 
   Thridly in nurseries of Beds and Ridges, Plant every kind    #
in 
thickets by themselves, and Annualls and perennialls by         #
themselves
(except only that you Intermix their Coloures) that is, make 
a whole Bed or Ridg of each kind, 6 Rowes in the Bed, the       #
Dwarfish
may be 8 Rowes: thus every thicket of them Flowering in 
their own order, will have a great shew, and at a great         #
distance;
and here also observe uniformity, that is, alike on each        #
hand, see 
the last Chap: sect:3. For if you have a Ridg or Bed of         #
(^July-flowers^)
or the like on the one side, Plant another thereof at the same 
place on the other, &c. 
   And because Flowers must be removed some in one, two, or 
three years, and the Earth renued or enriched, and properly     #
prepared,
else they degenerate; (because in long time they exhaust the 
substance of the ground, at least that part appropriate to      #
them) therefore
you have a good conveniency for effectuating the same by these 
last two models perscribed: for often you will have some Beds   #
or 
squairs where your Annualls stood, to replant your Tulips,      #
Anemonies 
or the like unto, and so another sort where these stood, and 
your Annualls again where this last was; and because here you 
remove a whole Bed or squair of a kind at once, you may 
very conveniently prepare, Delve, Stir, Bear, sift and mix it 
throughly with the soyl proper (a thing most necessary) and     #
this 
you could not well do, where they ar scattred as in the first   #
way. 
See the Rules mentioned Part. 2. Chap. I. Sect. 10 and Chap.7. 
   As to Terrase walkes, if the Brow on which you make them, 
be not too steep, the work shall be the more Facile: if you     #
build 
them up with walls, be careful to found deep enough according   #
to 
the level, and if the midle of the terrase be on the Central    #
line of the 
house or of any walke, make the Stayr of the upmost and         #
downmost
there to part at a plat on the head going down at both sides,   #
so much 
of the stayr case may be within as that the  outter edg         #
thereof may 
be in a line with the Bordure at the wall, by this it marrs     #
not the 
<P 31>
walke, the rest may be at the ends; Plant the Bordure at the    #
upperside 
of the walke with wall Trees, the under side (being but ell 
high) with Laurels: &c. But if your Terrase consists only of    #
walkes 
and sloping Banks, you may have the Bordure at the head and     #
foot
of each Bank on either side the walkes, Planted with standard   #
cherries 
&c. and the Banks, of (^Violets^) , (^Straw-Berries^) or Grass. 
   9. As for Pondes make them large and broad, such being best 
both for the health of Fish and Fowll, Clean, and most          #
preferrable 
water for watering Plants: squair, Triangle, Circle, Ovall, or 
what figure fits your ground best; let them be 5 or 6 foot of   #
solid 
water at least, with Sluces to let it Run in and out at         #
pleasure. 
   I am against Arbust and close walkes except Trees their      #
natural 
closing, where we have both shade and Air. 

[}CHAP: 7.}]
[}HOW TO LEVEL GROUND}]

I Have often wished that there might be some Rules found,       #
whereby 
this expensive worke might become more easy. There be two 
sorts of levelling (^viz^) : the Horizontal, and Sloping. The
first 
is best known, but the last more profitable and convenient.     #
Example, 
I have made a plot slop 4 foot in 200 long, and 18 Inches 
in 380 foot the other way: this was not perspicuous to vulgar   #
eyes,
yet to have made it Horizontal, would have been Ridiculous as 
to time, paines and expences. And in levelling the walkes       #
about a 
plot (which sloped naturally) to make them correspond with the 
grownd rownd, I behoved to make the midle walk agree with the 
side ones whereupon it slops 10 foot in 370 long: now if I had  #
made
this Horizontal, it would have been 5 foot or 10 steps lower    #
than 
the one side walke, and as much higher than the other, and so 
worse and more Inconvenient than before, both as it is a        #
walke, 
<P 32>
and anent Correspondancy with the rest of the ground within;    #
therefore
I am for levelling any ground sloping, that it may turn a       #
little 
to the Sun if possible, for drawing water, that it may          #
correspond 
with its adjuncts, and above all to prevent the more costly     #
way: 
for Its certainly a principal observation in levelling, not     #
only to 
cause, the ground of it self serve if self, but also to level   #
it as it lyes
most conveniently, which is the cheap and easie way of          #
levelling. 
When you have a Row of Stakes set in a straight line and about  #
20 
foot distance, as in the edge of a Bordure or midle of a        #
walke, the 
way of levelling them either Horizontal or sloping, is to mark 
and put a nail in the two stakes which ar at the extreams or    #
ends 
thereof, and view betwixt, cause marke all the Rest which ar    #
betwixt,
in a level line, therewith; This is the easiest, the exactest 
and quickest way: and in the same methode you may go round any 
plot, and consequently cross (every way) the same accordingly. 
   In that which you would have Horizontal, place the long      #
Rule 
and the level at one end, suppose the sole of the Door, till    #
the 
plumb fall right in recovering, and view alongst the said Rule  #
(as 
on a fowlling piece) that you may see what part of each Stake   #
it hits, 
and cause one with a piece white paper or white hefted knife    #
hold 
the same at each stake, its heft ending out (as the nails       #
which carry 
up the line) and direct him by words or signes to hold up or    #
down till 
it be Just level: when they ar all marked, measure down so      #
much 
on each Stake, as was raised up for conveniency; in viewing     #
there 
marke, put in nailes a little, streatch on the line, and level  #
up the 
earth or gravel thereunto. 
   And where you would have determin'd slops, set on the level  #
and 
marke the far-end stake in a level line therewith, then         #
measure down 
upon the said Stake or pole from the marked place so much as    #
you 
designe the slop, and put in a naile with white paper about     #
it, and 
at the upperside of the Rule in the stake at the door, put in   #
another
nail, and by viewing betwixt these two, marke all the rest as   #
before. 
If the distance betwixt the extreames be farr where the fight   #
may 
dazle, let the viewer descent his station, and come foreward    #
at 
<P 33>
every 5 or 6 Stakes and holding his knife at the last marked    #
Stake, 
cause his assistant or stake-marker proceed.
   To level as the ground lyes, let its slop be what it will    #
you need 
neither level nor Rule (except you please to try how much it    #
slops
after its done for satisfaction) only set stakes as before,     #
and viewing 
the ground narrowly put nails in the stakes which are at the    #
extreams
where you think the ground will Run when levelled to 
make it serve it self, and as it lyes best or easiest for       #
levelling: and
when you have concluded upon the level at the extreams, make    #
all 
the stakes in the Intervall by viewing as above. 
   2. But to proportion the level to the ground is the whole    #
art of 
levelling. Its true it is easie, if you have a plot or walke a  #
foot higher
at one end, to take half a foot thereof, and lay on the low end
so as the two ends may be Horizontal, (I have already shew'd    #
how 
to level having the two ends found) or if it be Horizontal to   #
take 9
Inches off the one end, and lay on the other, that it may slop  #
18 
Inches: but if some places of it ly one way, and some another,
and some neither the one nor the other, this increaseth the     #
difficulty. 
Wherefore you must first drive stakes at the corners of the     #
plot, 
then view the ground about and put nayles in the stakes where   #
you 
would have the level Run, or at least where you think by your   #
eye 
it may most conveniently come to make it contain it self, and   #
easiest 
to be levelled: also set up several stakes in the Intervalls    #
and Crosswayes
through the plot from opposite Angles, and by viewing betwixt 
the foresaid nailes every way marke all the stakes level; but 
if you cannot see from the markes of this supposed level which  #
are 
on these corner stakes, seeing there may be some underneath     #
the 
ground, little Hills, or some such obstructions in the way,     #
then 
measure equally up upon each of them, so farr as you think      #
convenient
for getting your sight, and mind to take down the same again 
after viewing. 
   When all is marked with this supposed level, go over and     #
note 
narrowly how it will agree, that so as your reason shall teach  #
you to 
alter, take up one end or down the other, or up or down both    #
till 
<P 34>
you bring it to such proportion, as to do its own business it   #
self. 
Or you may do more exactly thus. 
   Suppose you have a Bordure or midle of a walke with sixteen 
stakes driven therein at 20 foot distance, all marked with a    #
supposed 
level, and 10 of their markes above ground, and 6 under 
ground: first measure how farr the markes on each of the 10     #
stakes
is above ground, and write them down particularly, and adding   #
their
measures together, you find 13 foot 4 Inches. Secondly measure  
how farr the markes of the 6 stakes ar under ground, & write    #
down, 
adding them together you find it 12 foot; substract the one     #
from 
the other and the difference is 16 Inches which must be         #
divided by 
16 the stakes in the Bordure, that is, ane Inch to each stake,  #
so that this
supposed level is an Inch higher over all than the true level,  #
which 
being taken down will make the ground there level it self, and  #
no 
more. This may suffice for example, but I could say more, if I  #
did 
see your ground. And if you can thus proportion the level to    #
one 
Bordure, walke, or one Row of stakes, you may by the same Rule
find the level for the stakes round and cross the plot, and     #
consequently 
level the same accordingly: for having once concluded on 
the level, drive stakes over all the plot as in my first way    #
of planting 
Trees, (see Chap. 4. Sect. 4 ) and marke and put nailes         #
therein as 
above is taught for carrying the line. Except you mean to       #
follow my 
method of levelling the Kitchen-Garden, or the like for         #
planting 
and sowing, which is only to level one Bordure thus by stakes   #
and 
lines. Round each plot and by the eye level up the ground       #
within 
thereunto all along in Trenching, albeit this not so proper     #
for Courts 
and Grassplots. However as by this means, I use to level        #
ground 
without a level, so do I think this way of finding out the      #
true level 
by means of a supposed one, worthy your notice, and if rightly  #
improven
save you much money and paines. 
   Be cautious in founding your Walls lest you undermine them   #
in 
levelling, nor is it convenient sometimes to confine your       #
level to the 
foundation of Walls already built: for in so doing, you may     #
lose 
more, than would cast down and rebuild, but in such cases you 
may rather build under gradually. 
<P 35>
   3. There be some bad lying plots and walkes, with an ascent  #
at 
the head, hollow in the midle, level at the foot, these and     #
the like 
are very troublesome to level under one denomination: for the   #
taking
down the Hill, bares it so, that plants cannot prosper          #
thereon. 
some ar necessitate to take out the Gravel, Tile, or Stones so  #
much 
deeper, and travell earth again: but I rather advise to make    #
terrases,
you need not confine to the number of banks, but only to the    #
proportion
and uniformity. If it tend all one way as high at one end and 
low at the other, then its proper enough for perpendicular      #
walkes 
that front the house, but if low in the midle and high at both  #
ends, 
or low at both ends and high in the midle, then more proper for
Parallel walkes, (whose extremities are equidistant from the    #
central
line of the House) remember to divide and slop them equally. 
   This minds me of some abuses, which I have seen, as a plot   #
of 
sloping levelled ground, with another Horizontaly levelled      #
lying 
at the foot thereof, (at least not under one slop) or           #
Horizontal 
walkes and bordures lying by the foot and head of sloping       #
plots;
these are unseemly: for you should allwayes make them slop      #
under 
the same denomination (except if steep and high banks) I have 
made walkes of 18 foot broad slop 18 Inches form one side to    #
the 
other, because the whole plot sloped the same way, so much      #
proportionally,
yet to the eye appears very pleasant; but where such 
Horizontal and sloping pieces ly contiguous, the defect is      #
easily 
seen, therefore if you be necessitate to lay some plots so,     #
(albeit I 
know reason for laying walkes so) make rather a Hedg to         #
Intercept, 
and in all your workes let there be a connexion. 
   4. There be some more obstructions in levelling, as in a     #
long 
walke when you have the two ends found and marked, (either      #
with 
a supposed or true level) and cannot see betwixt, to do it      #
exactly by
reason of length: here two may go to the midle or near it,      #
where 
you may conveniently see both ends, looking back and fore,      #
there 
drive in two stakes near the length of the long straight Rules  #
distance, 
at which hold on the Rule, and let one view alongst the 
same till the marke at the West-end be level therewith, and     #
the 
<P 36>
other towards the East till the marke there be also level with  #
the 
same; so both may alter up or down till they have their         #
desires at 
once: then fix the Rule, and having as many stakes set as is    #
needfull,
you may view backsight and foresight hereon, and level them 
all exactly. 
   5. But if a Wall, a House, &c. Intercept, measure            #
perpendicular
exactly up to the top thereof, and on the other side measure
down the same again; and so set foreward the level, but so as   #
it 
may communicate with the rest, when obstructions are removed.
   But if a Hill, go to the Top, set the Rule level, and        #
laying ane 
eye thereto,  cause one with a long pole go down till its Top   #
be level
therewith (he holding it level by a Plumb Rule) then descent 
your stations and set the upper-end of the Rule where the pole  #
stood, 
there level it and do as before: thus from station to station   #
to the 
foot of the Hill, (if it be so great) keeping compt in a        #
Note-book
what poles and parts; the which may be as easily taken down     #
the 
other side by the same method. 
   But if it be possible to see over the obstruction on 3       #
footed standing 
leathers by help of long poles or Pikes, (as I have done in     #
the 
like case) raise your level thereon, and having viewed, and     #
marked
that on the other side, measure down the same there, &c. 
   6. I might here speak of the solidity of earth, whereby you  #
may 
move readily compt the expence of levelling, but having shew'd  #
in 
the next Chap. Sect. 5. How to measure solids, I presume its    #
applicable 
to earth: (as well as Timber, Stone, &c.) For if you know 
the breadth, length, and deepth thereof, you may find how many
solid Ells, &c. And if you know how many Ells and parts will 
load a cart and how  many carts a day, you may go near to       #
calculat 
the cost of the whole. 
   7. In levelling any ground for Kitchen ground, Orchards, or 
Nurseries, take not away its good earth of surface, (as you     #
bring 
down the hights) but alwayes turn over the upper-part thereof 
behind you, carrying away that which is below, so much deeper,
that it may contain that surface, and put the bad earth in      #
bottom of 
hollowes with better mould above it. 
<P 37>
   In the practise of levelling (or other workes) contrive the  #
working,
so as there may be still a motion amongst all the partes; and 
albeit carts are cheaper for levelling than Wheell-barrowes,    #
if the 
way of carriage be not very short, yet if you do not set as     #
many men 
to fill the carts as may have the one full against the other    #
come in 
and no more, you lose considerably: and this will be according  #
to 
the distance of carriage, or as the earth is capable of being 
wrought; and so with Wheell-barrowes for two Wheellers, three 
barrowes, and one filler sometimes doth well, sometimes more    #
fillers
or fewer Wheellers, yet still let them have a led barrow. And 
if this could be done with carts also, it would be of great     #
Advantage. 
wherefore in my opinion there is no way so probable to worke    #
this
effect, as the carts with three Wheells where by 2. men, with   #
2. of 
them carts, and one Horse can do as much as three Men, two
Horses, and 2 Carts: for one man to fill the led Cart, the      #
other 
Man to drive the one Horse: and when he comes in, he has        #
nothing 
to do but take the Trases and Hooks off the empty Cart and put 
upon the rings of the full one and so drive on. This Cart has 
no Trams or Limbers, but a Swingle-Tree or Breast-board         #
before, 
where the rings that keeps the trasses are:. it has a handsome
folding body, the thrid Wheell is about 30 Inches Diameter all  #
Iron 
and Runs in a Shiers of the same fastned perpendicular under    #
the 
midle of the forebreast with a turning Pin of Iron; the other   #
two 
Wheells are common, but if they have an Iron Axis, the better. 
   8. To bring in Water in Pipes to your Houses, Courts,        #
Gardens, 
Pondes, Parks, &c. Consider on the level, for as the place
where you convey it unto, must allwayes be lower than the       #
Fountain
from whence it comes, else thither it cannot flow: so must you 
take notice that no Hill in the way of its conveyance be so     #
high as 
the Fountain it self. You may find the level by placing your    #
Instrument 
at the Well or Fountain, as I directed in walkes, and if a 
Hill intercept that sight, plant on the Top thereof, that by    #
backsight 
and foresight you may find the difference, that hence you 
may know whither you can carry it about the obstruction: but    #
if 
<P 38>
the distance be farr, you need to be the more exact. As for     #
Instrument, 
the cross discribed Chap. 3. whose sights may be two Prospect 
Glasses, may do well whither for one or many stations. Let 
one stand at the Spring-head, another betwixt and the place     #
whereunto
you desire to carry the Water, a large distance sundry, but so 
as a thrid man about the midle may see both their Marke-boards
that is on their Pikstaves, and direct them to hold level by    #
his back 
and foresight, desiring them to keep accompt what foot and      #
parts: 
and so come foreward till the assistant at the well plant       #
where the 
foremost stood, and thus proceed all in a straight line, and    #
do as 
before, from station to station so long as needfull. at length  #
add
all the measures of back-stations together, and all of the      #
fore-stations:
substract the one from the other, and the remainders gives 
the difference of levels betwixt the Fountain and the           #
appointed 
place. 
   Allow to the fall of the Water for every 1000 foot in        #
length 12 
Inches slop at least. 

<S SAMPLE 2>
<P 87>
[}CHAP. V.}]
[}HOW TO PROPAGATE, AND ORDER FRUIT-TREES.}]

1. The only Fruits for this Countrey are Aples, Pears,          #
Cherries, 
Plumes, (and Apricocks, and peaches at Southside
of walls,) Currans, Goosberries, Rasberries, &c.
   Before I begin, I shall premise some observations on         #
Graffing, &c. 
a sure means to obtain Fruits of the desired species, and that  #
in 
short time: for by taking the twig or bud of such a sort as is  #
a 
good fruit, and bears well, and Graff or Inoculate into a       #
proper 
stock, you ar sure to have the same fruit; because the Graff    #
dominires, 
albeit it may have a little smack of its stock whereon now 
Graffed. And you may expect fruit, because it may actually
have the fruit buds, as being taken from a bearing tree. But 
if you sow the seed, they will be long e're they come to bear,  #
and 
at length perhaps bring to fine fruit, and for the seed of      #
Graffed
Trees, they will not bring the same fruit; Pears, and Aples     #
will 
rather bring a Fruit of the nature of the stock, whereupon they 
have been graffed; and although you should take a Cyon of the 
same, and graff in its self, that will not alter the Fruit,     #
nor better 
the Tree, except a little check its aspiring, which may as well 
be effected by pruning. 
   Wee can also be sure of the desired fruit, by cuttings,      #
layings, 
and circumposition; but such are allwayes Dwarfish and short    #
lived
Trees, as wanting a main Root which all seedlings have. 
Hence ariseth one reason, why stocks should be raised from the 
seed. Suckers are not so clean and lustie; therefore not so     #
able to 
nurse the graffs, and they are apt to send Suckers again.       #
Only I look 
upon plum Suckers as very good, because when they Spring off 
a Root at a distance from the stem, they strick good Root of 
themselves, very much resembling seedlings. Moreover you may 
<P 88>
graff on a Root or a stock Sprung off that Root as in Chap. I. 
Sect. 4. & 8. which is near equal to a seedling. 
   The seed of crabs, or wild Aples, and pears, may be fit to 
make stocks of such Trees designed for the fields, or more      #
Rugged 
grounds; but for a cultivated soil I would choice the seeds of 
finer fruits. And so the great White-plum is the best stocks    #
for 
Apricocks, or for want thereof any other White-plum with great 
shoots, albeit it doth on any plum: but we reject it self for   #
a 
stock, as being too spongie and not so durable. But Peaches 
and nectarins, takes only best upon Peach stocks, so cherries 
on geens, and Plumes upon plumes. 
   Goosberries, and currans, needs not graffing; they do well   #
by 
Suckers, layers, and cuttings. 
   To make Dwarfe Aples, Graff or bud on the paradise or any 
that hath Burry-knots, Codlings, Redstracks, &c. Dwarfe 
Pears on the Quince: but no Pear holds well on it (that I have 
tryed,) save Red Pear Achans and longavil; but you may 
re-graff for varieties. And if you be very curious for these 
stocks (which I am not) you may cut them at the 
Spring, when ready for graffing, within 2 Inches of the         #
ground, 
and at (^August^) come twelve moneths Inoculate in that young   #
shoot, 
and perhaps they will prosper the better, but I think graffing  #
in 
the Roots of Pears, will produce Dwarfs. 
   Dwarfe-cherries on the morella, or on the common Red         #
cherrie,
Or on that Red geen spoken of in Chap. 3. Sect. 2. which is 
more Dwarffish than the black. 
   2. The mellow, warme and light ground is for fruits; and 
allthough the best, warmest and lightest land, yields most      #
excellent
corn, yet the strong, stiff, cold, moist yields not so good 
fruits, plants, Grass, Hay, &c. Aples affect a pretty rich      #
loamy 
soil, tho they will bear in clay mixt with lym, dung, and       #
Turff. 
   Pears will prosper well enough where the soil is mixt with   #
Gravel. 
But both Aples and Pears are better relished in warme grounds 
that are not over moist, than in cold and wet: yet there be     #
some 
grounds hath sweet moisture, others soure; Which last is very   #
bad, 
<P 89>
and therefore must be helped by draining and application of     #
proper 
Medicine, see Chap. 2. 
   Cherries, Plumes, Apricocks, Peaches affect a light, sharp 
soil throughly prepared and mixed with Rotted manures. As to 
their propagation,
   By Graffing are Aples, Pears, Cherries, Plumes, Quince, 
Medlar, Wallnut, Chesnut, Filbeard, Service, &c. 
   By Inoculation or budding ar Apricocks, Peaches,             #
Nectarines, 
Almond, Goosberries, Currans, Aples, Pears, Plumes, Wallnuts, 
&c. 
   By Suckers, are Currans, Goosberries, Barrberries,           #
Rasberries, 
Quince, Vine, Fig, Mulberrie; its the white that feeds 
the Silk-worme: But that's to little purpose here. 
   By layers and circumposition are all sorts. 
   By cuttings are currans, Goosberries, Vine, Quince, Aples, 
especially these with Burrie-knots. 
   By Nuts and Stones are Wallnuts, Chesnuts, Filbeards,        #
Almond, 
Peach, Plum, Cherrie.
   By Kirnells or seeds are Aples, Pears, Quince, Goosberries, 
Currans, Barberries, Vine, Mulberrie, &c. 
   I have told whereupon to Graff Aples, Pears, Cherries,       #
Plumes, 
Apricocks, Peaches; and as for the Quince you may Graff it on 
it self or on the Hawthorn, Almonds on it self, Medlars on      #
Pears, 
or on the Service, Filbeards on the Hassell; Service, Wallnut, 
Chesnut, Goosberrie, Curran, all on their own Kind. 
   3. In raising the stocks observe that, 
   Aple, and Pear seed, must be separate from the Fleshy        #
substance
and spread to dry a little especially the Cyder-marie, left it  #
heat;
you may roll it in Sand to help the separation: keep it in a    #
couch of 
dry Sand till Winter pass, then sow them as soon as the frosts 
are over; they come up that season. 
   For raising Cherries or Greens see Chap. 3. Sect. 2. Peach,  #
Plum, 
and Almond-Stones must be used in all cases as Cherries, only   #
you
may break the Peach Stones. 
<P 90>
   Use the Quince-seed as Aples. As for the rest, I have        #
shewed 
how they are increased in the last Section, and how to          #
performe 
the several wayes in Chap.I. 
   But you must prepare a seminary and nurserie, as before for 
Forrest-trees, see Chap. 3. Sect. I. sow every species by       #
themselves, 
keep them clean of weeds, and the next or second year after     #
the 
seeds rise, if they shoot lustily, (draw out the biggest        #
first) transplant 
them into the nurserie in single rowes 2 foot intervall, and    #
half a foot 
in the rowes, for conveniency in hawing, graffing, pruning,     #
&c. 
and observe to prun Root and side-branches in planting, as I    #
directed 
with Forrest-trees; only when you have got them to a            #
convenient 
hight for graffing, you may cut their tops to make their        #
bodies 
swell the sooner, albeit this be not permitted with             #
Forrest-trees. 
However graff and inoculat, while the stocks are young, e're    #
they 
be an Inch Diameter, and they will sooner heal the wound: let 
them have a years settlement in the nurserie before you graff;  #
but you 
may inoculat that same insuing summer after planting,           #
especially 
if they be very free and lustie. Next year after graffed,       #
remove
them to a wider distance, (^viz.^) 3 foot one way and a foot    #
the other. 
Prun there Roots at every removal, and enter a pruning, that    #
they 
may provide for a well shapen head, cut them near now while 
young, if you would have all their branches of an equal         #
greatness, 
and of order proper, as anon I shall inform you. 
   In setting your stocks in the nurserie, I presume you will   #
set every 
kind by themselves (^i.e.^) Pears with Pears, and Aples with    #
Aples, &c. 
And when you graff or bud, write down in your nurserie-book     #
their 
species as they stand, (^viz.^) begin at the end of such a      #
nurserie, and say 
the first row is graffed, with such a sort and so furth: and    #
if you have
more than one in a row, then set in a stake betwixt each        #
species, and 
so write thus, from such an end of such a row; to the first     #
stake is so 
many of such a sort or species; thence to the second stake so   #
many 
of another, &c. 
   4. When you transplant Fruit-Trees into orchards, do, as I 
directed with Forrest-trees in groves; plant not deep, neither 
<P 91>
trench too deep; but tempt the roots by baiting the surface     #
with 
dungs to make them run ebb within the reach of the Sun and 
shoures. Therefore mix the Earth in the holes (which should 
be 6 or 8 foot diameter) with Rotted neats dung and Earth well 
turned, sweetned and Prepared as in Chap: 2. Cover, delve, 
and haw their bulks as in Chap. 3. Sect. 3. and for further     #
improving
and keeping your Fruit-trees in good case, see Sect. 6. of      #
this 
Chapter, prune their roots at every removal, as Forrest-trees,  #
(experience
forbids me to make exception of the Peach or any other, as 
some doth) And proportion their heads to their Roots by         #
pruning: 
but here note, that forrest-trees are train'd up high bodies    #
and 
unlopt heads, so Fruit-trees with low bodies, their heads lopt  #
and 
branches topt; therefore easily proportion'd, as aforesaid. 
   Standards of 4 years old, may be planted out of nurseries    #
into 
Orchards, Wall-trees of 2 years old. 
   The season of the year is as soon as they give over growing; #
(if 
the leaves be not off, cut them, saving a little tail of their  #
stalks) 
its true you may plant any time in Winter, weather open, but 
rather let the frosts be over, and the spring Approaching, if   #
you have
missed the fore-end of Winter, which is the better season. 
   For standards are Aples, Pears, Cherries, Plumes,            #
Goosberries, 
Currans, Barberries, Quince, Wallnut, Chesnut, Filbeards, 
Service: But I think all these deserves not a place in the 
orchard. 
   For Walls are Apricocks, Peaches, Nectarines, Almond, 
Vine, Fig, Currans, Aples, Pears, Cherries, Plumes, &c. 
But you need not take up much with Almond, Vine, Fig, nor 
Nectarine. 
   On the south side of the Wall plant Apricocks, Peaches,      #
Nectarines,
Vine, &c. On the east and west sides Cherries, Plumes, 
Aples, Pears, &c. On the north side Plumes, some 
Pears, as great Bargamot, some Aples, Currans especially, and 
Rasps, &c. 
   When you elect them in the nurserie, hang sticks tyed at     #
them 
<P 92>
figured, and write the same figure on the Paper at their name
to distinguish their species; and afterwards being planted      #
write them, 
as they stand. 
   5. Begin betimes to prune your  Fruit-trees, spare them not 
while young: reduce them into a good shape, and order while     #
such; 
so will they not only Soon over-grow the wounds, their branches
being but small, but also when they should come to bear 
fruit, you shall not need to cut so much, only purge them of 
superfluities; and this is the way to make Trees Fruitful as    #
well as 
pleasant. 
   Some Ignorants are against pruning, suffering their Trees    #
to 
run and Ramble to such a head of confusion, as neither bears    #
well 
nor fair: for the root is not able to maintain such, farr less 
fruit too; and therefore are their fruit so small and           #
Imperfect; 
in the mean time the Tree spends its strength, and so cannot    #
live
long, nor make good service in their time, yea somtimes the     #
Root
is not so much as able to bear such monstrous heads; I know 
one windy day prostrate above half a score such in a little     #
orchard. 
   Others again that are for pruning usually runs on the other 
extream, by cutting too much, and untimely; and some sparing 
what they should cut, and cutting such as they ought to 
spare: but the general errour even amongst the learned is, that
they spare them while they should prune, (^viz^) : the very     #
first 
and second year in special, yea the first 5 or 6 years; and     #
then they 
fall a massackering: at which time the branches being growen    #
some 
of them greater than other, who now runs away with all the 
nourishment from the smaller; insomuch that no man can reduce 
them to order again, having thus neglected the time. Albeit 
you should endevour it by cutting deep, or exterminating these 
great branches, which I confess is the next remeed; but then 
as these wounds brings cankers, hollowness, &c. so doth the 
work retard their bearing fruit. And indeed its about the time
that Trees ordinary begin to bear fruit, that these unskilful 
<P 93>
men begin to prune: and the more they are thus cut in the       #
head, 
the more they spring out to wood, and the less fruit they bear. 
But experience has taught me to begin, While young. 
   And when you do begin consider on the hight of the body, 
(for as high trees are unprofitable, so too low Trees in        #
orchards 
are inconvenient) for Aple and Pear standards two or three 
foot, plume and cherrie 3 or 4 foot, Dwarff and Wall-trees      #
half 
a foot; there cut the top that Runs Straight upwards, making    #
it 
to spread out in branches round. suffer no branch to aspire     #
beyond
other in hight, nor any to cross, Rub, or gall one another; 
and whatever branch or twig you cut off, cut close and clean    #
by the 
body or branch (except in the case of old Trees and great       #
branches
as I observed in pruning Forrest-trees) and in toping of 
branches cut close and smooth Immediatly above a leaf bud,      #
slanting
upwards. And when you prun, spare the fruit buds (the full 
ones are them) except you see them too many; then purge by the 
Knife. likewayes if afterwards you find more fruit knotted      #
than the 
Tree can be able to nurse to perfection, thin them in time. 
   But your first work is to proportion the head to the Root,   #
by 
pruning; cut the tops at a convenient hight, that the Tree may  #
grow 
equally furnished round; for cutting as it diminisheth, so it   #
forms
and shapes the head, insomuch as it furnisheth with new young 
shoots, that may be train'd, as you please. 
   Standards should have but four arms breaking out for a       #
head, opening
equally round, these divided into branches, and again           #
subdividing 
into twigs. & that you may the better understand what to cut, 
you may stand under, go about, look up through the tree where   #
you 
may espy superfluities: keep them clear, void, open within      #
like a 
bell and level on the top. make some larger opens towards the 
the south for Sun-beams entrance; let no branch grow cross      #
through 
the heart nor shoot spring up therein; (minding alwayes to prun 
such as cross, Rubs and galls other as above is noted) & any    #
branches,
shoots, or twigs that grows not the way you would have them 
cut them at the place whence you think they will send furth     #
shoots 
<P 94>
which may lead the way you desire them: cut close, smooth, and 
slanting at the back of a leaf bud tending that way; by this I  #
bring 
Trees to order. 
   Wall-Trees especially should be cut near, while young, that 
they may send furth a thicket of small shoots for furnishing    #
your 
walls from the bottom, equally: and if you continue to top      #
them 
every year at a convenient hight (perhaps about half a foot     #
above 
the last) that will make them shoot all their branches of an    #
equal 
uniformity of greatness, hight, and thickness, so that no long,
bair or naked branch be seen there, neither one or two great    #
and 
all the rest starved small; the common fault of our wall        #
Trees, and
is occasioned through neglecting to cut while young even the    #
first
year, as is said above. 
   But albeit a Tree right begun and so going on, yet one       #
years neglect
or wrong pruning may spoil it: for as I was once pruning wall 
Trees, an Ingenious person standing by, said I cut them too     #
low, 
alleadging thereby, the wall should be long uncovered, desiring
me to cut them a little higher: I told him, that was wrong,
but for to satisfie him I did cut 2 of them about 8 or 9        #
Inches higher 
than I designed or should have don. The next year these 
two Trees left about a foot naked round, and above the same 
crown'd like nests while the rest was equally and orderly       #
furnished;
when he beheld this, his minde was changed, and I obleidged 
to cut exactly where I should have don the precedent year: 
which was now a little below the midle of the naked place, and  #
this 
did put them several years behind the rest of bearing fruit. 
   You may nail them at midsummer that year of planting, and 
so continue to do at the seasons herafter discribed: prepare    #
double
plancher-nails and tags of hats, (which is better than          #
leather) 
shape the tags about half Inch broad, and betwixt 3, 4, and 5 
Inches long, making a gash with the Knife near the ends by      #
folding,
to put through the nail; then spread the Tree, laying, 
plying, & nailing every individual branch by it self, all at    #
equal distances
from other, not close in one place and wide in another, 
<P 95>
and let non cross other, the superfluous and these that will    #
not 
ply easily, and the exuberant or lustie that Robs the rest,     #
must 
be cut away. 
   Well plyed Trees will appear like apricocks; train, spread,  #
except 
these on a low wall, which you may cause lean all one way, 
as half of the other: drive the nail but half way in, and on    #
the 
upperside of the branch, else it will lean and gall; at every 
nailing alter the old nails and beware of pinching tags, &c.
   The time for pruning old planted and hardie Trees, is any 
time betwixt the leaf falling and the Spring, but let the       #
frosts be 
over before you prune the new planted young and tender, and 
before the sap rise, otherwayes the frosts will penetrate the   #
wounds 
and make a sore: but if you must cut before the frosts,         #
because 
their heads may be obnoxious to the winds, (such are ordinarly 
the new planted standards) then yow may cut a little, and at 
Spring cut off these pieces left cleanly, as before is noted.   #
Also 
let the frosts be over before you prune your Wall-trees and     #
before 
they bud; only I use to let peaches bud furth a little e're I 
prune them, otherwayes pieces of their branches somtimes        #
perish 
after the Knife. 
   And besides, that you must rub off all unnecessary buds,     #
and 
pull up suckers and weeds from the Roots, you must also give    #
all 
your Trees a midsummer pruning, (which is ordinarly the end of 
(^June^) & beginning of (^July^) ) a good time to cut any       #
shoots of this year;
any shoots or buds as tend not only to the deforming your       #
Trees, 
but Robs them of that sap, which may be otherwayes spent in     #
nursing 
the Tree and its fruits, (but the spring is the time of         #
croping or 
cutting their tops untill the wall be covered, then  crop at    #
both seasons)
thin & purge gently to let in the Sun, but not to scorch the    #
fruit. 
this is also the time of furnishing your Trees with pedastools  #
or 
Bearers: therefore in repruning, save as many of the likelyest  #
shoots, 
as ar well placed, and cut them at the 3d or 4th bud from the   #
Tree;
but cut quit off the lustiest and greatest of this years        #
(which Ignorants
do spare) & nail up such as are for filling up the defects of   #
the 
wall.
<P 96>
   You may go through them in harvest and purge the fruit of 
superfluous leaves which hinders the Sun: but do it so, as      #
there
may be leaves sufficient to screen the fruit, and cut quit off  #
the 
lustie shoots of this second Spring, that Robbs the Tree and    #
fruit. 
   As for goosberrie and curran standards, train them to a      #
foot 
stem with a handsome round but thin head: these at Walls half 
a foot stem with a well spread head supported with Rodes layed
cross, fastned with nails and tags. Rasps may be in shadowy     #
bordures 
or beds a foot distance, kept clean Suckers, weeds, 
and dead wood. 
   But because some years in some places we have ripe Grapes, 
especially that we have under the name of Frontinak: therefore  #
if 
you think a Tree or two of them worth your while, plant them    #
at 
a south Wall in a pure and fine mould, not wet, sour, and       #
croud, 
but a light sweet soil mixt with some Cowes dung Rotted in 
heaps with the mould. Plant ebb and trench not deep; prune 
them every year, prune low in (^February^) , and at the true    #
midsummer. 
Cut off the lustie young shoots and tendralls with sheers 
betwixt the 2d and 3d Joynt above the fruit; and in (^August^)  #
purge
it of superfluous leaves, but reserve so many as may screen     #
the 
fruit a little. 
   There be some sorts of Fruit-Trees that will blow and bear 
themselves to death, when young or midle aged: For such cut 
most of the blowing buds, and thin the head to make it shoot 
again. 
   I got some cherries and other stone fruit from Holland, who 
tooke this decay: wherefore in the Spring I did cut off the     #
blowing 
buds, and the branches near the place where the Tree headed, 
reserving only some buds for receiving the sap; (in case they   #
should
have put furth at the middle of the body or a little above      #
ground)
this made them shoot to wood. therefore I conclude that by      #
this 
and delving about, you may help ill-thriving Trees. 
   There be also some Aples and Pears, that will be full of     #
false
bearing buds, that doth not blow; such having got more head 
<P 97>
the Roots can well maintain, consequently has not strength      #
sufficient
to spare sap for blossoms, farr less for fruit, which by 
pruning and thinning the head, and by slitting the bark of the 
body in the Spring, may be made afterwards to bear well, when 
they have put furth new shoots at the head. 
   Some Trees there be that will not bear of themselves till    #
they 
be old: but if you cut off the head of the shoots as soon as    #
ever 
the Spring shoot is over  (which is at the true midsummer) and 
take out some great boughs then, if you minde your time, and 
do it with discretion, you may force that Tree to put furth     #
blowing 
buds, and blow and bear the year following, as I shall informe 
you in next sect: but, 
   6. One main business is to inclose your plantations: avoid   #
planting
too deep, too dry, too cold, too moist, and guard your          #
Orchards 
from winds by planting two rowes of Forrest-trees, at least 
round without the Wall, the breadth of a large walk therefrom   #
with 
Thickets of the same on the West, North and East, but           #
especially 
on the West. (Yet mind regularity) also observe my methode of 
planting, and pruning and ordering their bulks of 6 or 8 foot   #
Diameter: 
but when the Tree growes old and their feeding Roots farr 
abroad, you cannot reach to feed them with dungs in this        #
narrow 
Compass; therefore enlarg it, or otherwayes confine them a      #
little 
sooner and hinder their too farr gauding, by digging a Circle   #
round 
the Tree perhaps 8 foot Diameter, and cut all the Roots clean   #
off 
there, that hath run out, applying fresh and sweet Mould, so    #
shall
they emitt Fibres or feeding roots in thicket, which may be     #
supplyed 
with refreshments once in two or three years, as shall be       #
required.
And this cutting the Roots will cause Trees, that are apt 
to spend more in wood than Fruit, alter there-from, (add this   #
to the 
latter-end of the last Section) and the ends of the Roots cut   #
off,
and their buttends raised up a little, will serve as stocks to  #
Graff 
upon. 
   When you would enrich your worne out plantations, if the     #
ground 
be poor and dry, add well rotten dung prepared and mixt with 
soil. The Water that soaks from a Dung-hill is excellent: for   #
it will 
<P 98>
follow the Roots and Enrich the Trees. If the ground be cold    #
and 
moist, add Pigeons dung or Ashes and soot; which is also        #
excellent 
if it be leopared with unskilfull dunging, or by noysome weeds  #
that 
grows about such Roots, (where the owner is a sluggard) &       #
hatches 
or nests, moles, mice, toads, &c. 
   If you observe the premises, you may prevent their           #
diseases, such 
as illthriving, &c. But if you have, or do neglect, and the     #
diseases 
be come, as if Cankers or Galls be entered, cut them clean      #
out, covering
the wound with a Plaister of Cowes dung and clay compound;
if the bark be pilled by hares, conies or mice, apply a         #
Plaister of the 
same; (but better prevent the last three, by swadling the       #
Trees with 
Straw or Hay ropes, unloosed in summer and renewed every        #
Winter, 
if your fence cannot Guard them.) Illtaken off branches,        #
broken or 
rotten branches must be cut off clean and smooth. If any Trees  #
be 
bark-bound, (which is the misery of many and especially         #
Forrest-trees)
slit them in the Spring through the bark on both sides with a 
sharp Knife from the head to the Root, and delve about them, 
otherwayes raise and plant ebber if too deep; which is the      #
common 
cause of this disease together with bad inclosure. 
   If jaundise, cut off the diseased wood; if moss, scrape of   #
singe it 
off: but its vain to attempt the cure untill you first remove   #
the 
cause; which you will find to proceed from some malignity at    #
the 
Roots, whither the disease be Bark-binding, Cankers, &c.
   And this most commonly by ill-planting (and not inclosing)   #
as 
among Clay, Water, impenitrable Gravel, &c. Water must be 
draineds, it an intollerable evil. Cold clayes, stiff and hard  #
soil
must be trenched and mixed with dungs and soils, often stirred  #
and 
fallowed, as above is directed. And if you would have Trees to  #
prosper, 
observe their nature, and wherein they most delight; and so 
apply and help them accordingly. 
   9. And for destroying of vermine, there is traps for Moles   #
of 
several forms, besides you may watch and delve them up with     #
the 
spade. And for mice, the traps from (^Holland^) , or for want   #
thereof, 
Pots sunk in the Earth (where they haunt) till their mouth be   #
level 
<P 99>
with the surface half full of Water covered with a little       #
chaff wherein 
they drown themselves; and so doth Toads, Asps, &c. Cast away 
the Earth where the ants lodge, supplying its place with stiff  #
clay. 
Place Cow-hooves for the woodlice, and erwigs to lodg in all    #
night, 
and so scald them early morning. Pour scalding Water in the     #
nests 
of Wasps, and hang Glasses of Ail mingled with Hony, where you 
would not have them frequent. 
   Dash Water on the Trees for Caterpillers, by the Stroups we  #
get 
from (^Holland^) . Gather Snails and Wormes, shoot Crows, Pyes, 
Jayes, and spread Nets before your Wall-Fruit for their         #
preservation. 
   See the Appendix how to gather and preserve Fruit, and how   #
to 
make Cyder, &c. 



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