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[^LITHGOW, WILLIAM.
THE TOTALL DISCOURSE OF THE RARE ADVENTURES ... OF LONG 
NINETEENE YEARES TRAUAYLES, ETC.
GLASGOW: JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS, 1906 (LONDON 1632, ALSO 
REPR. 1682). 
PP. 333.1-369.36^]

<P 333>
[}THE NINTH PART .}]

Tunneis beene sightlesse left, I sought the Ile
Of little Malta: famous for the stile
Of honour'd Knight-hood, drawne from great Saint John,
Whose Order and the Manner, I'le expone:
Whence Coasting Sicilie, a tripled view
I tooke of AEtna: Time discussing you
A miracle of Mettall; for its Kind
Is nurs'd by Raine, and suffled up with wind:
And thwarting Italy, the Venice Gulfe,
Carindia, Carneola, the stiffe stream'd Dolf;
Head-strong Danubio, Vienne, Austriaes Queene,
And Kinde Moravia, set before mine eyne.
To Hungary I came, and Vallechie,
The Transilvanian Soile, and Moldavie.
Whence sighting Polle, and many Scotsmans face,
I Kiss'd Sigismonds hands, at Warsow place:
Whence Swethland I, and Denmarke last bewray,
Noruegia too, in my sought London way;
Where bin arriv'd, safe on the brow of Thames,
To Court I came, and homag'd Royall James.

And now my Wish, and my arrivall, being
both desirous for a while setled in 
Tunneis, I dispatched my Dragoman, and
the other Barbarian hireling, with a
greater consideration, then my two former
conditions allowed me: Yet being urged
to it by Captaine Wairds decernitour, I
freely performed his Direction. My Conduct gone, and
<P 334>
I staying heere, Captayne Waird sent twice one  of his servants
with me to see two sundry Ovens drawne, beeing
full of young Chickens, which are not hatched by their
mothers, but in the Fornace, being thus. The Oven is 
first spred over with warme Camels dung, and upon it
the Egges, closing the Oven.
Then behind the Oven, there is a daily conveyance of
heate, venting through a passage beneath the dung, just
answerable to the naturall warmnesse of the Hens belly;
upon which moderation, within twenty dayes they come to
naturall perfection. The Oven producing at one time,
three or foure hundred living Chickens, and where defection
is, every sharer beareth a part of the losse; for
the Hatcher or Curator, is onely Recompensed according
to the living numbers he delivered. Surely this is an
usuall thing, almost through all Affricke, which maketh
that the Hennes with them are so innumerable every
where.
   And now it was my good fortune, after five Weekes
attendance for Transportation, being about the 14. of
February 1616. to meete here with a Holland ship called
the Marmaide of Amsterdam, beeing come from Tituana,
and bound for Venice and Malta, touched here by the
way. In this time of their staying, came one Captayne
Danser a Fleming, who had beene a great Pyrate and
Commaunder at Seas, and the onely inveterate enemy of
the Moores; beeing imployed by the French King in
Ambassage, to relieve two and twenty French Barkes that
were there Captivated, done by the policy of the Bashaw,
to draw  Danser hither; notwithstanding that hee was then
Retired, and marryed in Marseilles.
   Well, he is come, and Anchored in the Roade, accompanied
with two French Gentlemen: Two of which came
a shoare, and saluted the Bashaw in Dansers behalfe:
they are made welcome, and the next day the Bashaw went
franckly a boord of Danser, seconded with twelve
followers: Danser tooke the presence of the Bashaw for
a great favour, and mainely feasted him with good cheare,
<P 335>
great quaffing, sounding Trumpets, and Roaring shots,
and none more familiar then the dissembling Bashaw,
and over-joyed Danser, that had relieved the Barkes, for
thy were all sent to him that morning, not wanting 
any thing.
    After deepe cups, the Bassaw invites him to come a
shoare, the day following, and to dine with him in the
Fortresse: To the which unhappy Danser graunted,
and the time come, he landed with twelve Gentlemen,
and nearing the Castle, was met with two Turkes to
receive him: where having past the draw-bridge, & the
gate shut behind him, his company was denied entrance:
where forthwith Danser being brought before the Bassaw,
was strictly accused of many ships, spoyles, and great
riches he had taken from the Moores, and the mercilesse
murther of their lives, for he never spared any: Whereupon
he was straight beheaded, and his body throwne over
the walles in a ditch; which done, off went the whole
Ordonance of the Fort, to have sunke Dansers two ships;
but they cutting their cables, with much adoe escaped, but
for the other Gentlemen a shoare, the Bassaw sent them
very courteously and safely aboord of the redeemed Barks,
whence they hoised Sayles for Marseilles.
   Loe there was a Turkish policy more sublime and crafty,
than the best Europian alive could have performed. A
little while thereafter, the afore-said Hollander being
ready to goe for Sea, I bad goodnight to Generous  Waird,
and his froward Runagates, where being imbarked, with
prosperous windes upon the third day, wee landed at
Malta, and there leaving my kind Flemings and their
negotiation, I courted the shoare, saluting againe my
former hoste.
   The fift day of my staying here, I saw a Spanish
Souldier and a Maltezen boy burnt in ashes, for the
publick profession of Sodomy, and long or night, there
were above a hundred Bardassoes, whoorish boyes that fled
away to Sicilie in a Galleyot, for feare of fire but never
one Bugeron stirred, being few or none there free of it:
<P 336>
The Knights that remaine here, as they are of divers
howsoever, they of the better sort, are resolute in their
atchievements.
   The Maltezes aunciently did adore the Goddesse Juno,
whose Temple was superbiously adorned with rich decorements,
and to which for homage  and devotion, came all
the Inhabitants of the circumjacent Iles; bringing rich
presents and gifts; and they were also honored with the
Temple of Hercules, the ruines of which appeare to this
day.
   Now as their order of Knighthood, the oath which is
made at their receiving, in the order of St. John, or of the
Religion of the holy Hospitall of Jerusalem, is thus: I
vow, and promise to God, to the most blessed  Virgin
Mary, the Mother of God, and to our glorious Patrone
St. John the Baptist, that by the grace and helpe of 
Heaven, I shall ever be obedient to the superiour, that God
and this Religion have appointed; and from henceforth
that I shal live chast, forsaking Marriage, and all other
lusts, and to be without the proper possession of any thing
that may be mine.
   After this, the Chappell clarke, a Priest of the order,
receiving him with divers ceremonies, taketh a blacke
Cloak in his hand, and shewing him the white crosse that
is fixed thereon; demandeth if he doth not beleeve that
to be the signe of the Crosse, whereon Jesus Christ was
crucified for our sinnes, he confesseth it, kissing the
Crosse: After which, his receiver putteth the crosse of the
Cloake upon the heart and left side of the new made
Knight, saying: Receive this signe in the name of the 
trinity, the blessed Mother of God, the Virgin Mary, and
of St. John the Baptist, for the augmentation of the
Catholick faith, the defence of the Christian name and
service of the poore: Also we put this crosse on thy left
side, to the end, that thou mayst love it with all thy heart,
and with thy right hand for to defend it: And in fighting
against the enemies of Jesus Christ, thou shalst happen to
flee, and leave this holy Signe behind thee, thou shalst of
<P 337>
good right be depraved of this holy religious order, and
of our company: This done, he knitteth the Cordon of the
Cloake about him saying; Receive the yoake of our Lord
that is sweet, and light, and thou shalst find rest for thy
soule: This spoke, he kisseth the Cordon, and so doe all
the circumstanding Knights, and there are made unto him
divers Orations and precepts, contained in the Booke of
their Ordinances: They have a Priest-hood too of this
same order, being Masse-Priests that weare this badge of 
the white Crosse.
   Now  bidding farewell to Malta, and to mine aforesayd
Countrey Gentleman William Dowglas, I landed the next
morning at Sicly in Sicilia, being twenty leagues distant.
And now this being the third time of my traversing
this Kingdome, (triple experience, deeper knowledge) I
begin to give you a perfit description thereof.
   Sicilia was first named  Trinacria (whose figure is
Triquetria) for that being triangular, it butteth into the
Sea with three Promontories: Capo di coro, South, Cap
di passaro West: and Cap di saro East: The length of
each triangle from point to point, being 200. miles.

(\Terra tribus scopulis, vastum procurrit in aequor,
Trinacris a positu, nomen adepta loci.\)

An ile with corners three, out-braves the Mayne
From whence the name Trinacry it doth gaine.

   It is now called Sicilia from the Siculi or Sicani who
possessed it, and hath beene famous in all former ages:
   By Diodorus Siculus, it was cognominated the Paragon
of Iles: By Titus Livius, the Garden of Italy: It was
also aunciently called the Grange of the Romanes, and is
never a whit decayed to this day.
   The length of the Iland lyeth East and West, in circuit
sixe hundred,  large fifty, and in length two hundred fourty
Italian miles: The soyle incredible fruitfull, excelling
in all sorts of graine, as cornes, Wheat, Wine, Sugar, Ryce,
Oyle, Salt, Allom, all kinds of fruit, wholesome Hearbs,
<P 338>
exceeding good Silke, exquisite mines of mettall, and the
best Corall in the world is found here, beside Trapundy;
growing under the water greene and tender, but when
arising above, it becommeth red and hard: The like
whereof is sayd to be found in the red-Sea, and gulfe of
Persia.
   The most of the Townes and Villages within land, are
builded on the highest hills and greatest hights in the
Countrie; the reason is two-fold; first it serveth them for
strength, and a great defence in time of cursarary invasions,
of which divers bee so strait in ascending, that
one man may easily resist and beat downe five hundred.
The second is, because their dwellings being farre above
the parching Plaines, these situations are good preservatives
for their health, whereon they have a sweet and
cooling ayre, which in such a hot climat, is the soveraigne
salve to prevent sicknesse.
   Their  Villages be farre distant, some sixe, ten, fifteene,
twenty miles one from another; in all which grounds there
is no sequestrate house, unlesse (being a high way) it
be a Fundaco or Inne. About the sides of the  hills,
whereon their Townes  stand, grow all their Wines, and
on the Plaines nothing but red Wheat, which for goodnesse 
is unparalelled, and the best bread and abundance of
it in the world is here. Sicilia was formerly devided in
three Regions, to wit, the valley of Demonia, containing
AEtna, Catagna, Messina, and that angle of Cap di faro, of
old Pelora: The other the valley of Neitia, containing
Syracusa, Terra nova, and the angle of Cap di Cora of old,
of Lilibea; and the third was the valley of Matzzara
contayning Palermo, Trapundy, Malzara, and the angle of
Cap di passero old Pachinum: Many thinke that Sicilia
was rent from Italy by the violence of waters, at the
generall Deluge, some by infinit earthquakes, and some
simply conjecture the cause to have proceeded from combustious
AEtna, which is meere ridiculous.
   There are divers grounds and valleyes in this Ile, that
abound so in Wheat, that the Inhabitants recoyle a
<P 339>
hundred measures for one, and commonly are called the
fields of a hundred measures.
   The Sycilians for the most part are bred Orators, which
made the Apulians tearme them, men of three tongues:
Besides they are full of witty sentences, and pleasant in
their rancounters, yet among themselves, they are full of
envy (meaning their former kindnesses was unto strangers)
suspicious and dangerous in conversation, being lightly
given to anger and offences, and ready to take revenge of
any injury comitted: But indeed I must confesse, more
generously than the Italians, who murder their enemies in
the night; for they appeale other to single combat, and
that manfully without fraudulent practices.
   They are curious, and great lovers of novelties, and full
of quicknesse and rare inventions in all kind of Sciences,
great intelligencers, and lovers  of histories: As I found
in divers of them, who knew the passages formely of my
Countrey so exquisitly that I was astonished at their
relations, so agreeable with the trueth and times past. The
Parliament of Sicily hath a wonderfull great authority;         #
insomuch
that the Viceroy can not have the free gift (as 
they call it) which is every third yeare, nor no extraordinary
thing, nor the renewing of any matter concerning
the Common-wealth, without the generall consent of the
whole Kingdome: The generall counsell whereof is
composed of three branches, called by them, the armes of
the Kingdome: viz. first the Prelats, and inferiour Clergy
men, named the arme Ecclesiastick: secondly of Barons
called the arme Military: and the third, the Commissioners 
of Cities and Townes, intitulated the arme
Signioriall: The Crowne-rent of this Kingdome amounteth
to a million and a halfe of Duccats yearely: which being
disbursed ever for intertaining of Captaines, Garrisons and
of Gallies, and cursary ships, the Badgelloes and servants
for the fields, the maintaining of Towers, and watches
about the coasts, the reparations of Colledges, high-wayes,
Lords pensions, and other defrayings, there rests little,
or nothing at all to the King.
<P 340>
I remember in my twice being in this Kingdome,
(especially the second time, wherein I compassed the whole
Iland, and thrice traversed the middle parts therof from
Sea to Sea.) I never saw any of that selfe Nation, to 
begge bread, or seeke almes; so great is the beatitude of 
their plenty. And I dare avow it (experience taught mee)
that the porest creature in Sicily eateth as good bread, as
the best Prince of Christendome doth. The people are
very humane, ingenious, eloquent and pleasant, their
language in many words is nearer the Latine, then the 
Italian, which they promiscuously pronounce: somewhat
talkative they are, and effeminate, but generally wonderfull
kind to strangers. In the moneths of July and 
August, all the Marine Townes every yeare, are strictly
and strongly guarded with them of the inland Villages
and Bourges, both on foot and horsebacke: who are
compelled to lie there at their owne charges, so long as
this season lasteth; in which they feare the incursions
of the Turkes; but the rest of the yeare, these Seacoast 
Townes are left to the vigilant custody of the
Indwellers. 
   This Countrey was ever sore oppressed with Rebells and 
Bandits, untill such time that the military Duke of Sona, 
came to rule there as Viceroy, Anno 1611. where in the 
first yeare he brought in five hundred; some whereof
were hanged, some pardoned, and some committed to the 
Gallies: So that within two yeares of his foure yeares
government, there was not a Bandit left at random in all
Sicilia; the like before was never seene in this Region,
nor one in whom Astreas worth was more honoured, in 
fortitude of mind, and execution of true Justice than this
Duke, before whose face, the silly ones did shine, and
the proud stiffe-necked oppressours did tremble. 
   And in a word, he was no suppressour of the subjects
(as many now be) to satisfie either licentious humors, or
to inrich light-headed flatterers, but serving Justice, he
made Justice serve him: for the equitie of Justice of 
itselfe, can offend none, neither of any will it be offended;
<P 341>
unlesse the corrupt tongue and hand of the mercenary
Judge, suffer sound judgement to perish  for temporary
respects; which this noble Governour could never doe, 
neither suffer any inferiour Magistrate to doe the like
under him: As it well appeared by his just proceedings
against the Jesuites of Palermo, and his authority upon
them imposed in spight of their ambition. The circumstances
whereof were very plausible, if time did not 
slaughter my goodwill; and yet my patience could 
performe my paines with pleasure. 
   And likewise against a Seminary  Gallant, a Parochial
Priest of that same City, who had killed a Knights servant
in a Brothell-house, the brother of a Shoomaker, which 
fellow, the Victory caused to Pistoll the Priest in 
spight of the Cardinall, and thereupon absolved him for
the dead. 
   The Cardinall having onely for the Priests fact, discharged
him to say Masse for a yeare without satisfaction
for the mans life: so the Duke inhibited the Shoomaker
to make shooes for a yeare, and neverthelesse 
allowed him two shillings a day to mainetayne him for 
that time. 
   Many singular observations have I of his government, 
the which to recite would prove prolixious, though worthy
of note to the intellective man; hee was afterward Viceroy
of Naples, and now lately deceased in Spaine. It is 
dangerous to travell by the Marine of the Sea-coast
Creekes in the West parts, especially in the mornings, 
least he finde a Moorish Frigot lodged all night, under 
colour of a Fisher-boat, to give him a slavish breakfast:
for so they steale labouring people off the fields, 
carrying them away captives to Barbary; notwithstanding
of the strong Watch towers, which are every one in sight
of another round about the whole Iland. 
Their arrivalls are usually in the night, and if in day 
time, they are soone discovered; the Towers giving 
notice to the Villages, the Sea coast is quickly clad with 
numbers of men on foot and horse-backe: And oftentimes
<P 342>
they advantagiously seaze on the Moores lying in obscure
clifts and bayes. All the Christian Iles in the Mediteeranean
Sea, and the Coast of Italy and Spaine, inclining
to Barbary, are thus chargeably guarded with watch
Towres. 
   The chiefe remarkeable thing in this Ile from all
Antiquity is the burning Hill of AEtna, called now Monte
Bello, or Gibello, signifying a faire Mountayne, so it is,
being of height toward Catagna from the Sea side, fifteene
Sicilian miles, and in Circuite sixty. The North side
toward Rindatza at the Roote beeing unpassable steepe;
yet gathering on all parts so narrow to the top, as if it had
beene industriously squared, having a large prospect in 
the Sea; about the lower parts wherof, grow exceeding 
good Wines, Cornes, and Olives. 
   And now in my second Travailes, and returne from
Affricke, I not being satisfied with thee former sight, the 
kinde Bishop of Rindatza courteously sent a Guide with
me on his owne charges, to view the Mountayne more
strictly. Ascending on the East and passable part, with 
tedious toyle, and curious climbing, wee approached neare
to the second fire being twelve miles high; which is the 
greatest  of the three now burning in AEtna: whose vast 
mouth, or gulfe is twice twelve-score long and wide, lying
in a sraight valley betweene a perpendicular height and
the mayne Mountayne; whose terrible flames, and cracking
smoake is monstrous fearefull to behold. 
   Having viewed and reviewed this, as neare as my 
Guide durst adventure (the ground meane while whereon
wee stood warming our feete, and is dangerous for holes,
without a perfect Guide) wee ascended three miles higher
to the maine top or Cima, from which the other two fires
had their beginning. Where when come, wee found it 
no way answerable to the greatnesse of the middle fire;
the other two drawing from it the substance, wherewith
it hath beene aunciently furnished; yet betweene them
two upper fires, I found aboundance of Snow (beeing in 
July) lying on the septentrion sides of the Hill. It was 
<P 343>
heere in this upmost Fornace, that Empedocles the 
Phylosopher cast himselfe in, to bee reputed for a god. 

(\Deus immortalis haberi
Dum cupit Empedocles, ardentem fervidus AEtnean
Insiluit\)
To be a god, this curious Wretch desires
And casts himselfe, in the fierce AEtnam fires. 

   As we discended on the North-east side, we came to 
the third and lowest fire, which is within a short mile of the
Mountaynes foote, over against Rindatza; and if it were
not for a sulphureat River, which divideth the Towne 
and the Hill, it would bee in danger to be burned. This
last and least fire, runne downe in a combustible flood,
from the middle above, Anno 1614. June 25. Where 
the Sulphure streames, before it congealed, falling in a 
bituminous soyle, where Wine and Olives grew there 
seased, and daily augmenteth more and more; having
quite spoiled the Lands of two Barons in Rindatza : But
the King of Spaine, in recompence of their miserable mishapes,
did gratifie them with some of his Crowne lands for
their maintenance. 
   I speake it credibly, I have found the Relickes of these
Sulphure streames, which have burst forth from the 
upmost tops of AEtna Westward, above twenty miles in 
the playne. The reason of such ardent disgorgements, 
is thus; that when the abundance of Sulphure, being put
on edge with excessive Raine, and the bituminous substance
still increasing; which by the chaps, slits, and 
hollow chinkes of the ground (rent partly by the Sunne,
and by the forcing flames) is blowne by the Wind, as by
a payre of Bellowes; the vault or vast bosome, of which
ugly Cell not being able to contayne such a compositure
of combustible matter, it impetuously vomiteth out, in 
an outragious Torrent; which precipitately devalleth, so 
long as the heate remayneth : and growing cold, it congealeth
in huge and blacke stones, resembling Minerall
mettall, and full of small holes, like to the composed
<P 344>
Cinders of a Smithes Forge, wherewith the Houses of 
nine Townes Circumjacent thereunto, are builded. 
   This is that place, which the Poets did report to bee
the shop of Vulcan, where Cyclops did frame the thunderbolts
for Jupiter : Wherof Virgill doeth make his Tract, 
called AEtna. Under this hill the Poets faine the Gyant
Enceladus to be buried, whose hote breath fireth the 
Mountayne, lying on his face; and to conclude of AEtna,
the grosse Papists hold it to be their Purgatory. 
   The chiefe Cities therein are Palermo, the Seate of the 
Viceroy, situate in the North-west part over agaynst
Sardinia: It is a spacious City, and well Watered with
delicate Fountaynes, having goodly buildings, and large 
streetes, wherof Strado reale is principall, beeing a mile
long. In which I have seene in a evening march along
for Recreation above 60. Coaches; a paire of Mulets, 
being tyed to every Coach : The Gallies of Sicilia, which 
are ten, lye here. 
   The second is Messina, toward the East, over against
Regio, in Calabria, being impregnable, and graced with
a famous haven : having three invincible Castles, the 
chiefe wherof, is Saint Salvator by the Sea side; there 
be divers other Bulwarkes of the Towne wals, that serve
for offensive and defensive Forts, which is the cause (in 
derision of the Turkes) they never shut their Gates.
   The third is Syracusa, standing on the Southeast Coast
fifty miles beyond AEtna, and halfe way twixt Messina and
Malta, a renowned Citty, and sometimes the Metropolitane 
Seate : It is famous for the Arathusean springs, 
and Archimedes that most ingenious Mathematician : He 
was the first Author of the Spheere, of which instruments 
he made one of that bignesse, and Arte, that one standing
within, might easily perceive, the severall motions, of 
every Caelestiall Orbe : And when the Romanes besiedged
Siracusa, he made such burning glasses, that set on fire all
their Shippes lying in the Road : At last he was slayne
by a common Souldier in his studdy, at the sacke of the 
Towne, to the great griefe of Marcellus the Roman 
<P 345>
Generall; when he was making plots, and drawing figures
on the ground, how to prevent the assaults of the 
Romanes. 
   The fourth is  Trapundy  in the West, over agaynst
Biserta in Barbary, which yeeldeth surpassing fine Salt, that
is transported to Italy, Venice, Dalmatia, and Greece;
made onely in some certayne Artificiall Salt pooles, by
the vigorous beating of the scorching Sunne, which 
monthly they empty and fill. The Marine here excelleth 
in Ruby Corall, which setteth the halfe of the 
Towne at work, and when refined, is dispersed over al 
Christendom.
   This City is in great request amongst the Papists
because of the miraculous Lady heere, reputed the Ilands
Protector, and sole Governour of these narrow Seas, for
Shippes, Gallies, and Slaves : which indeede if an image
cut out in white Marble were so powerfull, it might be
credible; but besides this Idolatrous title, they               #
superstitiously
thereunto annexe a rable of absurd lies. 
   The fift is Catagna, placed at the Marine foot of AEtna,
that was so vexed by Dionisius the Tyrant. The sixt
is Matzara South-west, over against the Barbarian Promontore
of Lystra, the rest be Rindatza, Terra nova, 
Emma, whence Pluto is sayd to have stone Proserpina, 
Malzara, Francavilla, Bronzo, Terramigna, and Argenti
once Agrigentum, where the Tyrant Phalaris lived, who
tortured Perillus in the Brazen Bull, which he made for the 
destruction of others. 
   The tyrannies which were used in Sicilia  were in times
past so famous, that they grew unto this Proverbe, (\Invidia
Siculi non invenire tyranni, tormentum majus\) . The 
elder and younger Dionisius, were such odious tyrants, 
and the third Dionisius worst of all, that when the
people powred out continuall execrations on the last, wishing 
his death; onely one old woman prayed for his life:
This reason she gave, since from the grandfather, his 
father, and he, each succeeding worser and worser, and 
least (said she) he dying, the divell should come in his 
<P 346>
place, (for a worser never lived) I wish him to continue 
still.
   This Kingdome after it was rent from the Romanes, 
remained in subjection under the French till the yeare, 
1281. in which Peter of Arragon, contrived his purpose so 
close, that at the sound of a Bell, to the evening vespers, 
all the French men in Sicilia were cruelly massacred; 
since which time it hath ever belonged to the house of 
Arragon, and now of Spaine, which exploit masketh under
the name of Vesperi Siculi. For nobility this Iland may 
compare with Naples, their styles (like unto Italy) are
great, but their revenewes wondrous small. 
   The Sicilians have a Proverb, as having experience of 
both, that the French are wiser than they seeme, and
the Spaniards seeme wiser than they are : And even as the 
Spaniard is extremely proud in the lowest ebbe of 
Fortune: So is the French man exceeding impatient, 
cowardly desperate, and quite discouraged in the pinch of 
sterne calamity. The Spaniard and the French man have
an absolute opposition, and conditionall disagreement in 
all fashions; and in their riding both different, and 
defective: For the Spaniard rideth like a Monkey
mounted on a Camell, with his knees and heeles alike
aside, sitting on the sadle, like to halfe ballast ship, 
tottering on the top-tempestious waves: And the French 
man, hangeth in the stirrop, at the full reach of his great 
toe, with such a long-legged ostentation, pricking his horse
with neck-stropiat spurres, and beating the wind with his 
long waving limbes, even as the Turkes usually do, when 
they are tossed at their Byrham, hanging betweene two 
high trees, reciprocally waving in the ayre, from the force
of two long bending ropes. 
   The women ride here stridling in the sadle, and if 
double, the man sitteth behind the woman : The women 
also after the death of their friends keepe a ceremonious 
mourning twice a day, for a moneths space, with such 
yelping, howling, shouting, and clapping of hands, as if 
all Sicilia were surprised by the Moores : Yet neither
<P 347>
shedding teares, nor sorrowfull in heart, for they will both
hollow and laugh at one time : The same custome for the 
dead, the Turkes observe, and all the Orientall people of 
Asia. 
   This Iland finally is famous, for the worthy Schollers 
shee once produced: Archimedes the great Mathematician; 
Empidocles, the first inventer of Rhetoricke; 
Euclide the textuary Geomettrician; Diodorus Siculus that 
renowned Historian, and AEshilus the first Tragedian of 
fame, who being walking in the fields, and bald through
age, by chance, an Eagle taking his bald pate for a white 
rocke, let a shell-fish fall on it, of that bignesse, that it   #
beat
out his braines. 
   But to proceed in my itinerary relation, having twice
imbarked at Messina for Italy, from Asia, and Affricke, I 
have choosed the last time (double experience, deeper 
knowledge) for the discourse of my departure thence: 
After a generall surveigh of this Iland and Monte Bello
arriving at Messina, Anno 1616. August 20. I encountered
with a Worshipfull English Gentleman Mr. 
Stydolffe Esquier of his Majesties body, accompanied 
with my Countrey man Mr Wood now servant to James 
Earle of Carelill, who instantly were both come from 
Malta, the generous affabilitie of which former Gentleman
to mee in no small measure was extended; meeting
also afterward at Naples, as in the owne place shall be 
succinctly touched. 
   Here I found some 60. Christian Gallies, assembled to 
the Faire of Messina, which holdeth every yeare the 17. 
of August: Wherein all sorts of Merchandize are to be 
sold, especially raw Silke in abundance: 30 of which
Gallies went to scoure the coasts of Greece. Messina is 
foure miles distant from Rhegio in Calabria, and two miles
from the opposit Maine. This Rhegium was that Towne 
where Saint Paul arrived after his ship-wracke at Malta
in his voyage to Rome: It was miserably sacked by the 
Turkish Gallies of Constantinople, Anno, 1609. but now 
by the Spaniards it is repaired with stronger walles, and 
<P 348>
new fortifications, sufficiently able to gaine-stand any such
like accidentall invasions. 
   In this time of mine abode here, there happily arrived
from Italy my singular good friend Mr. Mathew Dowglas
his Majesties Chirurgion extraordinary, being bound also 
for the Levant in the same voyage of the Christian incursions
against the Infidels, whose presence to me after so 
long a sight of Hethnike strangers was exceeding comfortable,
and did there propine him with this Sonnet (which 
I made on AEtna) as the peculiar badge of my innated love. 
   
High stands thy top, but higher lookes mine eye, 
High soares thy smoake, but higher my desire, 
High are thy rounds, steepe, circled, as I see, 
But higher farre this breast, whilst I aspire: 
High mounts the fury of thy burning fire,
But higher far mine aimes, transcend above: 
High bends thy force, through midst of Vulcans ire, 
But higher flies my spirit, with wings of love, 
High presse thy flames, the Christall aire to move, 
But higher moves the scope of my engine, 
High lieth the snow, on thy proud tops I prove, 
But higher up ascends, my brave designe. 
Thy height cannot surpasse this cloudy frame
But my poore soule, the highest Heavens doth claime, 
Meane while with paine, I climb to view thy tops, 
Thy height makes fall from me ten thousand drops. 

Here in Messina I found the (sometimes) great English 
Gallant Sr. Frances Verny lying sick in a Hospitall, whom
sixe weekes before I had met in Palermo: Who after many
misfortunes in exhausting his large patrimony, abandoning
his Countrey, and turning Turk in Tunneis; he was 
taken at Sea by the Sicilian Gallies : In one of which he 
was two yeares a slave, whence hee was redeemed by an 
English Jesuite, upon a promise of his Conversion to the 
Christian faith: When set at liberty, hee turned common
Souldier, and here in the extreamest calamity of extreame
miseries, contracted Death: Whose dead Corpes I charitably
<P 349>
interred in the best manner, time could affoord me 
strength, bewailing sorrowfully the miserable mutability 
of Fortune, who from so great a Birth, had given him so 
meane a Buriall; and truly so may I say, (\Sic transit 
gloria mundi\) . 
   After sixteene dayes attendance for passage, their
fortunately accoasted heere twelve Napolitan Gallies come
from Apulia, and bound for Naples : In one of which, by 
favour of Marquesse Dell Sancta Cruce the Generall, I 
imbarked, and so set forward through the narrow Seas, 
which divide Italy and Sicilia: The strait wherof, is 24. 
miles in length, in breadth 6.4. and 2. miles. This Sea 
is called the faro of Messina, and fretum Siculum; at the 
West end whereof, wee met with two contrary chopping 
tides, which somewhat rusling like unto broken Seas, did
choake the Gallies with a strugling force: 
      
(\Incidunt in Scyllam, cupiens vitare Charibdim\) .

Who strive to shunne, the hard Calabrian coast, 
On sandy Scilla, wrestling they are lost. 

   Yet of no such eminent perill, or repugnable Currents, 
as be in the firths of Stronza and Westra: especially Pentland
firth, which divideth Katnes from Pemonia, the 
mayne Land of Orknay; wherein who unskilfully looseth
from eyther sides, may quickly loose sight both of Life 
and Land for ever. As we entred in the Gulfe of Saint
Eufemia, we fetched up the little Ile of Strombolo: 
This Isolet is a round Rocke, and a mile in Compasse, 
growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramide, and not 
much unlike the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the 
toppe wherof, as through a Chimney arriseth a continuall
fire, and that so terrible, and furiously casting foorth great
stones and flames, that neyther Galley nor Boate, dare
Coast or boord it. 
   South from hence, and in sight therof, on the North
Coast of Sicily lye the two Ilands, Vulcan Major, and 
Minor; whereof the lesser perpetually burneth, and the 
greater is long since consumed. On the fourth day we    
<P 350>
touched at Ischa, the greatest Ile belonging to Naples, and 
20. miles in Circuite, being strongly  begirded with Rockey
heights. The chiefe Towne is Ischa, whether Ferdinando
of Naples fled, being thrust out of his Kingdome by 
Charles the eight. 
   There is a Fountayne here of that incredible heate, that 
in short time will boyle any fish or flesh put in it, and the 
taste agreeable to digestion. Departing from thence, and 
coasting the mayne shoare, we had a Moorish Frigot in 
Chase, where seazing on her, we found 16. Moores 
therein, and sixe Christians, three men, two Women, and 
a Boy, whom they had taken up, in going betweene two 
Townes by the Sea side.  The Peasants were set at liberty,
and the Moores immediately preferred to chaynes of Iron, 
bloody lashes, tugging of  Gally oares, and perpetuall
slavery. 
   Neere the Marine, and in sight of Naples, wee boorded
close by the foote of the Hill Vesuvio, which in time past
did burne, but now extinguished: It was here that the 
elder Pliny who had spent all his time in discovering the 
secrets of Nature; pressing neere to behold it, was stifled
with the flame, so that he dyed in the same place, which
is most excellently described in the Booke of his Epistles,
by his Nephew the younger. 
   Arriving at Naples, I gave joyfull thankes to God for 
my safe returne to Christendome, and the day following, 
I went to review the auncient Monuments of Putzola or 
Puteoli: Which when I had dilligently remarked in my 
returne halfe way to Naples, I met the aforesayd English
Gentleman and M. Woode, who needes would have me 
turne backe to accompany them hither.  When come, we 
tooke a Guide, and so proceeded in our sights; the first
thing of any note wee saw, was the stupendious Bridge, 
which Caius Caligula builded betweene Putzolo and Baia, 
over an arme of the Sea, two miles broad: Some huge
Arches, Pillars, and fragments whereof remayne unruined
to this day:  The next, was the new made Mountayne of 
Sand, which hath dryed up Lago Lucrino, being by an  
<P 351>
Earth-quake transported hither; at the foote of this 
fabolous Hill, we saw the remnants of Ciceroes Village. 
   Thence we came to the Temple of Apollo, standing on 
the East side of Lacus Avernus, the Walles whereof, and 
pendicles (the Tecture excepted) are as yet undemolished.
   This Lake Averno is round, and hemb'd in about with 
comely heights, being as our Guide reported infinitely
deepe, and in circuite a short mile. The West end whereof, 
is invironed with the Mountayne of Cuma, whether 
AEtnas arrived when hee fled from Dido Queene of 
Carthage, and sister to Pigmalion King of Tyrus.  
   Advancing our way, along the brinke of the Lake, we 
came to Sybillaes Cave, the entery being darke, because of 
the obscure passage, hewen out and cut through the mayne 
Rocke, our Guide strooke fire, and so with a Flambo 
marched before us. The first passage was exceeding high
Cime, and the further end stopped with mouldring earth. 
Inclining to our right hand, we passed through a very 
straite and low passage, and so arrived in Sybillaes 
Chamber, which is a delicate Roome, and Artificially
decored with Mosaical Worke: Here it is sayd, the Divell
frequented her Company, and where shee wrot her Prophecies. 
From thence hee conducted us through a most 
intricate and narrow way, (wherein we were forced to 
walke sidling in) to a large and vast Rome: The Rockey 
vault whereof, was hanging full of loose and long stones,
many of which were fallen to the bottome. 
   This great Cell or Hall, is a yard deepe of blackish
Water, and was the dining Roome of Sybilla: In which
hearing toward the further end, a scriking noyse, as if it 
had beene the chirking of Frogs, the hissing of Serpents, 
the bussing of Bees, or snarling of Wolves; we demanded
our Guide from whence such a sound proceeded? Who 
answered, they were Dragons and flying Serpents, praying
us to Returne, for the fellow was mightily affrayde: 
Whereat I laughing, Replyed, there was no such matter;
and M. Stydolffe desirous to know it, hee onely and I,
leaving the other two behind us, adventured the tryall: 
<P 352>
Having more then halfe way entered in this Sale, stepping
on huge stones because of the Water, and I carrying the 
Flambo, for lacke of ayre, being so far under ground, the 
light perished. Whereupon wee hollowed to our Guide, 
but the Reverberating Eccho avoyded the sense of our 
words, neyther would he, nor durst he hazard to support
us.
   Meanewhile it being Hell-darke, and impossible to find 
such a difficult way backe, and tendering (as by duty) the
worthy Gentleman, I stepped downe to my middle thigh
in the water, wrestling so along to keepe him on the dry
stones. Where indeed I must confesse, I grew affrighted
for my legs, fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents, 
and Snakes, for indeed the distracting noyse drew aye
nearer and nearer us. At last, falling neare the voyce of 
our guide, who never left shouting, wee returned the same 
way wee came in, and so through the other passages, till
wee were in open fields. 
   Here indeed for my too much curiosity, I was condignely
requited, being all bemired and wet to the 
middle, yet forthwith the vigorous Sunne disburdned me 
quickly thereof: From thence (to be briefe) we came to 
the Bagni, the relicts of Pompeis Village, to the Fort of 
Baia, and the Laborinth of Ciento Camarello, into the 
admirable fish ponds of Lucullus, (the coverture of which,
is supported by 48. naturall pillars of stony earth) to the
detriments of Messina, Mercato sabbato, and the Elisian 
fields: Thence we returned by the Sepulcher of Agricula, 
the mother of cruell Nero, who slit up her belly to see the
matrix wherein he was conceived; and by the two decayed 
Temples of Venus, and Mercury: Crossing over in a boat
to the Towne of Putzolo, the chiefe monument we saw, 
was the auncient Temple of Jupiter, who serveth now for
their Domo, or Parochiall Church: The latter Idolatry 
of which, is nothing inferiour to the former. 
   Meanewhile here arrived the French  Gallies, fetching 
home Chevalier du Vandum, the Prior of France from
Malta: Who scouring the coast of the lower Barbary, their
<P 353> 
fortune was to fall upon a misfortunate English ship
belonging to Captaine Pennington, which they as a 
Cursaro or man of Warre confiscated. Their Anchors
fallen, I boorded the Queenes Galley, where to my great
griefe I found a Countrey-man of speciall acquaintance, 
George Gib of Burrowtownenes (who was Pylot to 
the English) fast chained to an oare, with shaven head and 
face: Who had his owne shippe twice seazed on by the
Turkes, and Mamora, which ship he lastly recovered at the 
Ile Sardinia, and sold her at Naples being miserably 
worme-eaten. To whose underserved miseries, in my 
charitable love, I made a Christian oath, that at my arrivall
in England, I should procure by the helpe of his friends,
his Majesties letters to the Duke of Guyse Admirall, for 
his deliverance.  But soone thereafter, being of a great
spirit, his heart broke, and so died in Marseils. 
      
(\Tempora labuntur, tacitisque senescimus annis,
Et fugiunt fraeno, non remorante Dies\) . 

Times slide away, gray haires come posting on, 
No reyne can hold, our dayes so swiftly gon. 

   Departing from Putzolo, we came to thee Sulphatara, 
where the fine Brimstone is made, which is a pretty incircling
Plaine, standing upon a moderate hight; having three
vents, through two of which, the smoaking flame ariseth, 
and the other produceth no fire; but after an excessive 
raine surgeth sixe foote high with blacke boyling water, 
which continueth so long as the rayne lasteth. 
   From thence (our Guide leaving us) we came to Grotto 
di cane; wherein if a Dogge be cast he will suddenly die, 
and taken thence, and cast in the Lake, he will forthwith
revive: This  Grotto or Cave, standeth on the side and
root of a sulphure hill, the brinke of Lago di Avagno:
We desirous to make tryall of a Dog; and finding the
fellow that purposely stayeth there somewhat extortionable,
I adventured in stead of a Dog to make tryall of 
my selfe; Whereupon Maister Stydolffe holding up the 
quartered doore, I entered to the further end thereof,
<P 354>
bringing back a warme stone in each hand from thence:
whereat the Italians swore, I was a Divell and not a man: 
for behold (say they) there was a French Gentleman the 
former yeare, who in a Bravado, would needes goe in: 
whereupon hee was presently stifled to death, and here
lyeth buried at the mouth of the Grotto to serve for a 
caveat, to all rash and unadvised strangers to doe the like. 
   The relation indeed was true, but I counting nothing
of it, would needes (sore against the Gentleman and
Master Woods will) goe in againe, where entred to the 
bottome being ten paces long, the moysty and choaking 
heat did so suffocate and benumbe my senses, that with
much adoe I returned backe; where receiving the fresh
ayre, and a little Wine, I presently forgot my former
trance: which when the Dog-keeper saw, he for an easie
composition made triall of his Dog; and having tyed a 
string to his hinder leg, he cast the Dog scarce halfe way
in the Cave, where immediately his tongue hanging out, 
he fell downe dead: And forthwith his Master repulling
him backe, cast him in the Lake, powring in water in his 
eares, but hee could never recover his life. Whereupon 
the poore man cried out, alas I am undone, what shall I 
doe, the Dog that wonne my dayly food is dead; in compassion
whereof the worthy Gentleman doubled his wages. 
   In our way and returne to Naples, we passed through
Virgils Grot, being halfe a mile long, and cut through the 
maine body of a Rocke, whereby the Mountaine of Cataia
by the Sea-side is made passable; at the East end whereof
neare the Cyme of the vault is Virgils Tombe: and 
arrived at Naples, Mr. William Stydolffe reporting to 
divers of his Countrey Gentlemen and mine, of my
adventure in Grotto di Cane, they could hardly be perswaded 
to beleeve it: But when avouched, they all avowed 
I had done that (so did divers Neapolitans) which never 
man had done before me reserving life. 
   Bidding farewell to my generous friends, I marched 
through Terra di lavoro, and in the way of Saint Germane, 
and Mount Cassino to Rome; within ten miles of Capua, 
<P 355> 
I found the poorest Bishop ( (\Nomen sine re\) ) the world
affoordeth: having no more (nor never had he, nor any
before him) than dui Carolini or Juletti twelve pence a 
day to spend. So is there many a Marquesse, Earle, 
Baron, and Knight in Italy, who is unable at one time, to 
keepe a foote-man at his heeles, a Dog at his foote, a 
Horse betweene his legs, a good sute of clothes on his
backe, and his belly well fed; so glorious be their stiles, 
and so miserable their revenewes. 
   Touching at Rome, I secretly borrowed one nights
lodging there, and at the breach of day another houres
sight and conference, with my Cousing Simeon Grahame; 
who ere the Sunne arose, crossing Ponto flamingo, brought
me on in my journey, till a high way Taverne like a Jayle 
held us both fast,  where leaving our reciprocall loves
behind us, wee divided our bodies East and West. 
   And now ere I leave Rome, I thinke it best, to let our 
Papists here at home, see the shamefull lives & cruell
deaths, of most of their Popes beyond Seas: which 
their owne best Authors in France, Italy, and Spaine, 
have justly & condignely avouched & recorded; & authorized
also to light by their prime powers civil and spirituall. 
the papists generally hold, that in their Popes, is all power;
(\Super omnes Potestates, tam Caeli quam Terrae\) ; above all
powers both in Heaven and Earth: They tearme him 
(\Alter Deus in terris\) ; a second God upon the Earth: (\Deus
mortalis in terris, et immortalis homo in Caelis\) ; a mortall
god upon the Earth, and an Immortall man in the 
Heavens: Some of them have allotted, that he is, (\Non 
deus, non homo, sed utrunque\) ; neyther God nor man but
both: The Popes former title was (\Servus servorum Dei\) ;
and they call him (\Rex Regum, Dominus Dominantium\) , 
King of Kings, and Lord of Lords. 
   Paul the third, entering Tolentino in the vale of
Ombria joyning with Tuscany, had this salutation: (\Paulo 
tertio, Maximo, in terris Deo\) ; to Paule the third, the 
best, and greatest God on earth. Then since they will 
have them gods, above the God of Gods; tell me I pray
<P 356>
you, what a May pole Dauncer, was John 12. alias 13. of 
18. yeares old, who made the Lateran their great Church
in Rome, a playne Stewes or Brothel house. 
   What a Pope-boy of twelve yeares old, was Benedict
the ninth? and after wrought by inchantments. Another
Pope they had, whom they called (\Unum pecus, in co quod 
de mane faciebat gratiam, et de soro revocabat\) : A very
Asse, for in the morning hee would grant many great 
kindnesses, and at night revoake them all agayne. What 
a thiefe was Pope Boniface the seventh? who robbed St. 
Peters Church? What a sodomiticall Pope was Sixtus 
the fourth; who builded Stewes of both kindes, 
granting his Cardinals the use of Sodomy, for three hote
moneths. What an Atheisticall Pope, was Leo the tenth? 
who called the Gospell a Fable. What a Hereticall Pope 
was Honorius the first? who by sixe general Counsels, was 
condemned for a Monothelit: What a perjured Pope was
Gregory the twelfth? and openly forsworne: What a 
Negromancer was Silvester the second? who gave himselfe 
both soule and body to the divell, to attaine the Popedome: 
What was Pope John the eleventh, but a bastardly 
brat to Pope Sergius? What a sorcerer, Charmer, and 
Conjurer, was Hildebrand, called Gregory the seventh? 
given to all beastlinesse, and diabolicall practices; this was
he that threw the Sacrament in the fire: What was 
Innocent the third? who was branded with this black
marke, (\non est innocentius, imo nocens vere\) , he is not
innocent; but vey nocent: What a wicked and cruell 
murtherer was John the twelfth a Romane borne, who 
caused to cut off the nose of one Cardinall, and the thumbe
of another Cardinall; onely because they had wrot the 
whole tract of his abhominable vices to the Emperour
Otho. 
   What an inhumane and homicidious Pope was 
Stephanus the seventh? who after he had cancelled the 
decrees of his predecessour Formosus, caused to deterre his 
dead body, cut off his fingers, and lay him in the fields to 
be devoured with the fowles of the aire: What a beastly
<P 357>
Pope was Sergius the third? that after he had imprisoned
Christopholus his predecessor, he caused to draw 
out the corps of Pope Formosus his old compeditor from
the grave, and cut off his head, as though hee had beene 
alive. 
   What a cruelty was shown upon John the 17. who after
he was depraved his Papacy, had his eyes pulled out, his 
nose cut off and his members, and was hanged: What a 
poysonable Pope was Damasus? who poysoned his predecessour 
Clemens the second, to attaine the Papality, and 
yet dyed within a moneth there after being Pope: What
a mercilesse Pope was Boniface the seventh, that after he 
had Rob'd Saint Peters Church and fled to Constantinople, 
hearing that Pope John the 14. was replaced, he returned, 
and pulling out his eyes, did cast him in prison, where he 
dyed of extreame hunger. What a persecution had
Gelase borne in Gaetta neare Naples, who first by the
Romanes was imprisoned, then stoned through the Citty, 
miserably dyed. Gregory the 8. succeeding him, was 
Deposed by Caliste brother to the Duke of Burgondy, who 
imprisoned the other, and starving him to Death, made
him selfe Pope. 
   What devotion fell out from the braines of Rome,to 
stone Pope Lucius the second to Death: What a shamefull
division was in your Papality; for fifty yeares, when 
Urbanus lived Pope at Rome and his Successours; and 
Clemens 7. and his Successors at Avigneon. Nay, you
have had three Popes at one time; even when Sigismond
King of Hungary and Boheme was elected Emperour, to 
wit. Benedict 3. at Avigneon; Johnn 23. at Bullogna; and 
Gregory the twelfth at Rimini: I pray you, could every
one of them open and shut the Gates of Heaven and Hell.
What an Infidell, was Pope John 22. who denied the 
immortality of the Soule. 
   What was Clement the 5. but open Whore munger 
and a drunken sot. What was Boniface the 8. he was 
called a Theefe,a Robber,and rooted in all unspeakable
sinnes, the eight Nero of Rome. What a furious and 
<P 358>
wicked Pope, was Julius the second? who given more to 
Warre then to Christ, cast Saint Peters keyes (as they call
them) into Tiber. What a prophaine skoffer of Christ,
was Paule the third? who lying in bed with his owne 
Cousin Laura Farnesia, was sore wounded by her Husband;
he lay with his owne Daughter, and poysoned 
her Husband; and then lay with his owne sister, and
after poysoned both her and his owne mother. What
was Julius the third? an open Sodomite, and horrible 
blasphemer. What was Pope Eugenius? a damnable 
scandalizer of the Church, and condemned by the Counsel 
of Basil, for an incorrigible and wilfull Hereticke. Pope
John 23. was deposed by the Counsell of Constance, for
Heresie, Symony, Murther, Enchantment, Adultery, and 
worst of all for Sodomy. What was Pope John 13. a 
vilde monster in his life, committing incest with both his 
sisters, and fathers Concubine Stephana: Hee was a 
gamster, and playing at Dice, did call for helpe to the 
Divel, and would drinke to the Divels health; hee was 
repleate with all abhominable vices; at last being taken in 
the acte of Adultery, was wounded to Death.
   Boniface the 8. afore named, came to bee Pope, by 
cousning his predecessour Celestine, in speaking through
the Wall in a Reed (as if it had beene a voyce from
Heaven) admonished him to surrender his Papacy; whose
Epithit was thus: (\Intravit ut Vulpes, Regnavit ut Lupus, 
Mortuus est ut Canis\) : He came in like a Fox, he ruled
like a Wolfe, he dyed like a Dogge. 
   At the sixt Counsell of Carthage, was not the treachery
and falshood of Pope Zosimus, condignely sifted out, in 
corrupting for ambitious government the Counsell of 
Nyce. Bernard about 500. yeares agoe, complayned much 
of the Tyranny of popes in his time, calling them Defrauders,
Raveners, Traytors, darknesse of the world,
Pilats, Wolves, and Divels.
   Albertus Magnus affirmeth, that they who now governe 
their Church, are for the most part Theeves and
Murtherers. And Platina, calleth some of their popes
<P 359>
vile Monsters, uncleane beasts, and strange creatures. 
And I remember it was noted by a Historian: (\Episcopos 
Romanos ne peccata quidem sine laude committere\) : The 
Popes could do nothing, were it never so mischievous, but 
it was commendable. 
   And even likewise are their prime Pardons, for (\Noxas
preteritas, aut futuras\) : and their future (\potestatem, tam
quo ad commissa, quam quo ad committenda crimina 
absolvenda\) ; That his Holinesse hath all manner of power,
as well to absolve them from crimes to commit, as from
crimes committed. And I remember about twenty yeares 
ago Paulo papa Quinto, Cannonized Carolo Borrameo, the 
late Bishop of Milane for a notable Saint, being knowne 
to bee a notorious and scelerate liver: done sooner by
fifteene yeares then their ordinary time, and that for the 
touch of forty thousand Duckats; allotting Prayers,
Miracles, Pardons, and Pilgrimages to him, and erecting
a new Order of Friers, and Monasteries unto him. And 
yet the poore Bishop of Lodi, a good and charitable liver 
by all reports, could never, nor cannot attayne to the 
dignity of a Saint, his meanes was so small when dead, and 
his friends so poore being alive. 
   And how wonderfull absurd is the Popes (\Bulla di Santa 
Cruzada, pro defunctis\) in Purgatory; that for one Pater
noster, at a Masse saying, or a Masse sayd for them: 
(\Sicavano fuora dalla Purgatorio, tre anime qualche ci 
vogliano\) , viz. You shall relieve any three soules out of 
Purgatory whom you please. Nay, I have seene the 
Popes Edict so gracious, that induring on Masse, as many 
Paters as you can recite, as many soules you free from 
thence.    
   And thus me thinketh in one halfe yeare, he might 
soone empty that purging pit: Yet unlesse the Suppliant 
touch with his finger, during his Prayers, a gaudy beede
inraveled betweene five small fast made irons, placed before 
the Altar; their Bulla, their payment for it; their Paters,
their Devotion for their friends soules, are all lost. Then
say, if peradventure, the friends of the defunct be oblivious
<P 360>
in this officiousnesse, and neglect both the Ceremony, and 
Pater noster, might not the Pope justly be reputed a cruell 
Monster, that for want of pattering an abridged Pater, his 
Cerberian Office in Hell, should detayne any poore soule 
in such torments, as they say are in Purgatory. 
   Infinite passages of the like kind could I Recite, if I 
had longer time and larger leisure; and especially of their 
miraculous leyes, or leying Miracles; in erecting of falshood, 
and maintayning of perjury; but till a fitter 
occasion, I will revert to my Itinerary Discourse, and so 
proceede. Having left my afore-sayde friend Maister 
Grahame, at a Taverne at Bilbo neere to Rome, I set
forward through the vaile of Ombria and the Countrey 
Romania, wherof Ravenna is Lady, and the Pope Lord, 
I arrived (the way of Ferrara and Padua) at Venice. 
Who then was levying an Army against the Croatian 
Scokes of Gradisca, and the Duke of Grasso now 
Emperour. Of which Army Count Mansfield was 
Generall, and with whom I crossed the Gulfe to Pola in 
Istria, and from thence to the siege of Gradisca: The 
discourse whereof, I have here formerly avouched in the 
second Part of my first Travailes. Now to speake of a 
Souldier, certainely hee is more then prayse-worthy and 
fortunate, that hath faced the Low-Countries, reviewed
Briscia in Lombardy, and footed and sighted the Arsenal 
of Venice, then his eyes have first seene, the sonnes, the 
force, the policies and Kingdome of Mars: Secondly, the 
fiery shoppe of Vulcan, where rarest Armes and Weapons 
are hammer'd out upon the Anvill, for the honour of 
Mars; and lastly the incomparable Armory or storehouse
for Sea and Land, the Meggazin and treasury of 
Mars. 
   Now leaving both the Armies barking at other like to 
Hircanian wolves, I traced the fertile soyles of Carindia, 
Carneola, and Stria even to Vienna: all which were subject
to the Emperour, save a part of Carneola, that groanes 
under the Turke. Being arrived at Vienne, I found the 
Towne, and the flying fame of it far different, either for
<P 361>
greatnesse, strength, or wealth: for the Towne rising upon 
a moderat height circular, is but of small compasse without,
not passing two English miles.   
   The suburbs round about, being twice as great as the 
Towne; and the strength of it is no way comparable
to a hundred Cities that I have seene, neither is it for 
wealth so much to be admired, being depraved of Seas, 
shipping, and navigation, having onely the needfull prosperity
of dry land Townes. 
   Here I found a Turkish Ambassadour, going downe 
the Champion Danubio of Europe, for Constantinople; 
and with him one Gratianus, a Greeke his Interpreter, to 
whose familiar love I was much obliged; and with whom 
I imbarked downe the River to Presburge a place where 
the Hungarian Crowne is kept, and from thence discending 
the River to Comorre, the downemost Towne the 
Emperour retayneth on Danubio, I left my noble Interpreter,
and traversed the Champaine Countrey. 
   The chiefe Townes whereof I wil briefly touch, and so 
proceed: Buda is the capitall Citie of Hungary, wherein
the Turkish Bassaw hath his residence, and was taken in 
by Solyman the Emperour, the twenty of August 1526. 
the other is the aforesaid Presburge, aunciently Bosonia;
the rest are Belgrad or Albegrek, aunciently Taurinum, in 
Dutch Griechs: Weissenberge, that was taken by 
Soliman ,1520.  Valpa, and Singidum, upon the Danubio, 
both under the Turke, and that of the seven Churches
upon the River Drana taken in, in the yeare one thousand 
five hundred and forty three, and Zigeth taken also in 
the yeare one thousand five hundred sixty sixe. 
   Moreover upon the Danubio, the Towne Strigonium
commonly Grana, and Alberoyall otherwise Stulvesenburg, 
a place destined for the Sepultures and Coronations 
of the Kings of Hungary, and was taken by the Turkes, 
Anno 1543. 
   Neare the same place in Stridon, where they say St. 
Jerome was borne: And now above all other the strong 
Towne of Gamorra, standing in the Ile of the Danuby of 
<P 362>
that same name, which the Turkes have so oft besieged, 
yet never could surprise it. 
   There is also Tockay, and Januarin or Rab seated too 
upon Danuby, a Towne as it were impregnable, yet it was 
overtaken by the Turkes, and lastly recovered by the 
Christians. 
   The Beglerbeg of Buda, hath under his command, 
eight thousand Timariots, and twelve thousand common 
Souldiers which lye in Garrison, in continuall pay on the 
confines of Hungary, Croatia, and Dacia, and these confines 
belonging to the house of Austria: The Bassa hath 
under his authority 13. Sanzacks, lying at these thirteene
Townes here undernamed, to wit, Novaguard, Semendria, 
Simontorno, Zetshen, Ecclesiae, Sirnium, Capan, Zornock, 
Alba Regalis, Sigedin, Mucchatz, Zegedin, and Sexard. 
   The other Beglerbegship of Hungary is at Temesara, 
who retaineth under his command eight Sanzacks and as 
many jurisdictions, spreading his authoritie over sixe          #
thousand 
Timariots, and eight thousand foote souldiers; and 
these Sanzacks lying at Temesara, Lippa, Itishinad, 
Mudania, &c. The great Turke hath eight Beglerbegs or 
Bassawes under him in Europe, that of Bosna being one of 
them, who commandeth ten Sanzacks and eight thousand 
Timariots; the residence of which Bassa is at Bagivialezza, 
a commodious place lying in the midst of 
circulating Provinces; over which he spreads the Ballucco
of the power. 
   The soyle of Hungary aboundeth infinitly in all things 
the earth can produce for the well of man; and produceth
admirable good Wines, the best whereof grow neare and 
about the Towne of Sirmia, and so sweet, that they may 
compare with the Wines of Candy, yea, and aboundeth in 
all kind of bestiall, that it is thought this Kingdome may 
furnish all Europe with Beefe and Mutton. 
   The Hungarians are descended of the Hunnes, a people
of Scythia or Tartary. The auncient Inhabitants divided
their habitations in nine circles, which the Germanes
named Hagyes, and impaled them with high walles, made 
<P 363>
of earth and wood, being twenty foote high, and as much 
in breadth, being rampierd with divers Bulwarks and 
Towers of earth, whereon grew all sorts of hearbes, and 
fructiferous trees. 
   The space from side to side of each one of these circles, 
amounted to twenty Dutch miles; the Townes, Villages 
and houses being within, and so contrived, that each one 
was within cry of another: this was the first admirable 
plantation of the Hunnes in this Kingdome. 
   The Hungarians have ever beene thiftuous, treacherous
and false, so that there one brother will hardly trust 
another, which infidelity among themselves and distracted
deceitfull governours, was the chiefest cause of their          #
overthrow
and subjection under Infidels: And so have corrupt 
Counsellors, and insolent Princes beene the ruine of their
owne Kingdomes; for if we would have a Prince fit to
governe others, and to direct him selfe with the square 
rules of wisdome and judgement, to know how to become 
all places, and to use all fortunes; let him bind his tender 
youth with a disposition temperd with sadnesse: for such 
a man can neither seduce his minority with ill examples, 
nor marre his waxen age with a false impression, too 
common a condition of these dissolute times. 
   Now as for the Hungar soyle, and Kingdome it selfe, 
and for the goodnes of it, it may be tearmed the girnell of 
Ceres, the Garden of Bachus, the Pastorage of Pan, and 
the richest beauty of Silvan: for I found the Wheat here 
growing higher then my head, the Vines over locking the 
trees, the Grasse jusling with my knees, and the highsprung
Woods, threatning the clouds: surely if I should 
enter on particulars here, I have more subject to worke 
upon, than any Kingdome that ever I saw: The Kingdome 
is divided in two parts, the higher and the lower, the 
lowest, largest, and best is under the Turke, and the other 
narrow proportion under the Emperour. 
   The Hungarian miles are the longest upon earth, for 
every one of theirs, is sixe of our Scots miles, nine
English: so that the most that ever I could travell there
<P 364>
in one day, was but sixe miles: Their language hath no 
affinity with any other kind of speech, and yet the gratest 
part of the Countrey both under the Turke and Emperour 
are Protestants, and are the best of all the rest, the other
being Arians and Papists.   
   There is a great Gentry in this Kingdome, but untravelled
abroad, farre lesse mannerly at home, being
luxurious and ill taught, and damnably given to that 
Masculine misery, the whole Southerne World is defiled
with. Having now traversed all the Countrey to Grana, 
and so to Gatterad in Valechia, I found the Country so 
covered with Woods, and them full of Murtherers (for I 
was robbed on these confines, and hardly saved my life)
I was constrayned I say, to returne to Tockai in the higher 
Hungary, and from thence in one day I stepped into 
Transilvania. 
   This Countrey is so environed with high and unpassable 
mountaines about, that there is but only five entries to 
come into it, which make it so strong and impregnable: 
Within there is rich bottome or plaine of thirty miles 
long, and sixe broad, being beautified with six faire
Townes; the chiefest whereof, are Cromestate, Juliastrad, 
and Hermestat. The sides of the mountaynes within rise 
all upward halfe levell way even to the tops, which 
maketh a pleasant and prospective Countrey, and the best 
mixt soyle of Europe: For on the incircled plaine, there
groweth nothing but Wheat, Rye, Barley, Pease, and 
Beanes: And on the halfe, or lower parts of the Hills
about, nothing but Wines, and infinite Villages; and 
toward the extreame circulary heights, only Pastorage for 
Kine, Sheepe, Goates, and Horses, and thickets of woods: 
So fram'd that every one supplieth another, for they of 
the Valley furnish the other two parts with Victuall, and
they againe them with Wines, Bestiall, Butter, and 
Cheese; each interchanging all necessary things with one 
another as they need. Here I found every where kind and 
familiar people; yea, and the very Vulgars speaking 
frequent Latine, and so commonly doe all the Hungarians. 
<P 365>
The Inhabitants here are all Protestants, but for their 
Vayvod or Prince Bethlem Gabor, I saw him not, for hee
was lying sicke of a Feaver at Juliastrad: This Province
is a free Principality, and notwithstanding adherent in 
some respect to authority of the Turke. But now 
having left this Religious Country, and crossing the North
passage of the Hils, called the Borean Berger, or North
mountaine, I entred in Moldovia; where for my welcome 
in the midst of a border-Wood, I was beset with six 
murderers, Hungarians and Moldavians: where having 
with many prayers save my life, they robbed mee of
threescore Hungar Duccats of gold, and all my Turkish
clothes, leaving me stark naked; save onely they returned 
to me my Patents, Papers, and Seales.   
   This done, and for their better security, they caryed mee
a little out of the way, and bound my naked body fast 
about the middle to an Oaken tree, with wooden ropes, 
and my armes backward so likewise: swearing to me, that 
if I cryed for helpe, or marred them of their designes
before the Sun set, they would turne backe and kill me; 
promising then to set me free. 
   But night come, and I forgotten, was left here in a 
trembling feare, for Wolves and wild Boares till the 
morrow; where at last by Gods providence I was relieved 
in the morning by a company of Heards: who clothing me 
with an old long coat of theirs, and refreshing me with 
meat; one of them caryed me five leagues unto the Lord
of the ground, and Baron of Starhulds a Moldavian 
Protestant, with whom I stayed fifteene dayes: And was 
more than repaired of all my losses, by his owne bounty, 
and Noble Kinsmen, his neighbouring friends, and would 
not suffer mee to goe any further in the Countrey, because 
of the Turkes jealousie over strangers, in regard it was 
but lately wrested from a Christian Prince, with whom I 
was conversant at Constantinople in Sir Thomas Glover, 
the Ambassadours house. 
   Well, I yeeld to the Noble mans counsell, and giving
him all dutifull thankes for his kind regards, he sent a 
<P 366>
guide with mee for two dayes journey through a part of 
Podolia, the upmost Countrey of Polland, bordering with 
Tartary. 
   The halfe of which Countrey I found left disinhabited
and desolat by incursions of Tartarians. Here I determined
to have entered in Tartary, but finding no conduct 
nor assurance of my safety, I continued my course to 
Crocavia, situat on the upper Frontiers of Polland bordering 
with Hungary. 
   Tartary is thought to be sixe hundred leagues in length, 
confining Eastward with China, to the South with the 
Caspian Sea, to the North with Russia, and to the West 
with Podolia, and Moldavia. 
   The Tartars are not expert in Warre, neither are they 
so valerous as the Turkes, nor so manly as the Polonians, 
who counter-blow them at rancounters; neverthelesse by
stealth of inroades, they mightily suppresse the extreamest
parts of Polland. The Turkes tearme the Cham or 
Emperour of Tartary, Vlakim, that is a great Prince, and 
the Moscovites call him (\Catzar Cataiski\) , to wit, the Caesar
of Cataia: And hee is so obeyed and reverenced among the 
Tartars, that they intitulate him the sonne of God, the man
of God, and the soule of God: yea, and the greatest Oath 
that they thinke can be sworne, which they usually doe in 
matters of fidelite and importance, is by his Throne 
Royall. 
   This custome of idolatrous obeysance, came first by one 
Rangavistah, who being chosen to their Emperour, 
would try their promptnesse and goodwill of obedience
towards him, commanding seven of his chiefest Princes, 
and head Governours under him of the people, to kill 
their Infants, with their owne hands. 
   And notwithstanding the Commandement seemed very 
rude and intollerable, yet they fearing the common people,
who esteeme their Emperours to be the divine Kinsmen
(as it were) of God; they did cut the throats every one 
of them, of their owne Children, before his owne eyes, and 
the sight of the people. 
<P 367>
   Insomuch that ever since, the life and death of the 
Tartars, depend upon the good-will and word of the King, 
which no way they dare contradict, such is the ignorant 
reverence they carry toward him. As for the idolatrous 
Rites they use at his Death, in inclosing or interring 
quicke in a Vault neere to his Tombe, one of every Office
that he loved best, being alive, to goe serve him in 
Paradice; I will not meddle with it, neither with the 
Vulgars Superstition, who Religiously feast upon the 
Corpes of their aged Parents, and then doe burne their 
bones into ashes, giving them such a buriall, as we give 
our Witches; for indeede the Wormes come short among 
the dead Tartars of their foode. 
   Being arrived in Crocko or Crocavia, the capitall City 
of Polland (though but of small importance) I met with
diverse Scotish Merchants, who were wonderfull glade of 
mine arrival there, especially the two brothers Dicksones,
men of singular note for honesty and Wealth. It was 
my lucke heere, to bee acquainted with Count du Torne, 
the first Noble-man of Boheme, who had newly broake out 
of Prison in Prage, and fled hither from Bohemia for
safety. Mathias then being Emperour, against whom hee 
had highly offended in boasting him in his Bed-Chamber 
with hard and intollerable speeches: Saying to Mathias in 
his face, and before his Wife the Empresse: Loe there is 
the right hand that helped to put the Imperial Crowne on 
thy head, and behold now there is my foote shall strike it 
off againe.
   This Fugitive Earle stayed me with him ten dayes to 
discourse, and beare him Company, for then hee had but 
onely one follower that came post with him: I found him 
Princely disposed in all things, and very familiar in his 
cariage: At last his trayne and treasure comming with 
many other Bohemian Barons and Gentlemen his friends, 
I humbly left him, and touching at Lubilina where the 
Judges of Polland sit for halfe the yeare, I arrived at 
Warsow, the resident place for the King Sigismond who 
had newly married the other Sister of his former Wife
<P 368>
being both Sisters to this Ferdinando now Emperour: A 
match I dare say more fit for the savage Sabuncks of Lybia,
than for a  Christian Prince or shepheard. 
   But it is no matter Pope Paulus Quintus gave him 
licence, and in that liberty,a wide passage to Purgatory: 
who, when dead that incestuous guilt will bee royally
purged; loe there his pontificall absolution. 
   Betweene Crocavia, and Warsow Lubilina; lying halfe
way it is a hundred Pollonian miles or French leagues: 
Here I found abundance of gallant rich Merchants my 
Countrey-men, who were all very kind to me, and so were 
they by the way in every place where I came, the conclusion
being ever sealed with deepe draughts, and God be 
with you. 
   Polland is a large and mighty Kingdome, puissant in 
Horse-men, and populous of strangers; being charged
with a proud Nobility, a familiar and manly Gentry, and 
a ruvidous vulgarity: They are all for the most part, of 
square and thicke bodies, having Bull-necks, great thighes 
and legs, grim and broad faces, and commonly their shaven 
heads are finely covered with overthwarting strokes of 
crooked shables: for they, and the Armenians of Asia are
of stature and thicknesse the biggest, and grossest people 
the world affoordeth.
   The soyle is wonderfull fruitfull of Cornes, so that this 
Countrey is become the Girnell of Westerne Europe for
all sorts of graine, besides Honey, Waxe, Flaxe, Iron, and 
other commodities: And for auspicuousnesse, I may rather
tearme it to be a Mother and Nurse, for the youth and 
younglings of Scotland, who are yearely sent hither in great 
numbers, than a proper Dame for her owne birth; in 
cloathing, feeding, and inriching them with the fatnesse 
of her best things; besides thirty thousand Scots families, 
that live incorporate in her bowells. And certainely
Polland may be tearmed in this kind, to be the mother of 
our Commons, and the first commencement of all our best 
Merchants wealth, or at the least most part of them. 
   And now ceasing to peramble through any moe particulars
<P 369>
of this familiar Nation to us, I was kindly 
transported from Warsow upon a Waggon to Dansick, 
being fifty leagues distant, with a Generous young Merchant 
William Bailey my cliddisdale Countrey man, to 
whose courtesies I still rest thankfull. 
   Here in Dansick I fell deadly sicke for three weekes 
space, insomuch that my Grave and Tombe was prepared 
by my Countrey-men there. 
   Neverthelesse in end (it pleased almighty God) I 
recovered my health, and then imbarked for Alseynure in 
Denmarke, where being better convalessed, I recoursed 
backe in a Flemish Pink to Stockhollem: where after five 
or sixe dayes being there, and finding my sicknesse like to 
returne againe, and fearing the worst, I made hast for 
England. 
   At last finding the commodity of an English shippe 
belonging to Ratcliffe, wee hoysed sayle, and set froward 
through the sound, or Belticke Sea for Alseynure agayne: 
Whence after three dayes abode, bidding farwell to that 
tributary Towne and Castle, wee Coasted the scurrile and 
Rockey face of Norway, at two severall parts, but not 
without great stormes, and contrary Windes, yea and once 
finally indangered with a threatening shipwracke, which 
with good lucke we happily escaped. 
   These tempestuous dangers past, upon the seaventh 
day the winds refavouring us, wee safely arrived at 
London, from whence I first began Voyage, and there 
ended my second Peregination. 
   (\Magnum virtutis principium est, ut dixit paulatim
exercitatus animus visibilia & transitoria primum Commutare,
ut post-modum possit derelinquere. Delicatus 
ille est adhuc, cui patria dulcis est, fortis autem jam
cui omne solum patria est: perfectus vero, cui mundus 
exilium est.\)
   THE END OF THE SECOND BOOKE, OF MY SECOND
TRAVAILES.



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