{COM:the_place_name_rendered_asacein"_is_typed_with_c_cedilla_in_the _edition} CHAP. II . IS A SURVEY OF THE ISLAND OF CANOREIN NEAR BOMBAIM . (FRYER-E3-H,I,182.4) Upon these scores it was not long before I was employed to wait on the Father Superior of the North , a Learned Man , and a Spaniard by Nation , of the Order of the Jesuits . (FRYER-E3-H,I,182.6) The President commanded his own Baloon a Barge of State , of Two and twenty Oars to attend me and one of the Council , to compliment the Father on the Island of Canorein , parted from Bombaim by a Stream half a Mile broad : (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.7) Near our Landing-place stood a College , not inferior to the Building , nor much unlike those of our Universities , belonging to the Jesuits here , more commonly callen Paulistines whose Visitor was now my Patient , who live here very sumptuously , the greatest part of the Island being theirs . (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.8) Our Entertainment was truly Noble , and becoming the Gravity of the Society . (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.9) After I had done my Duty , the Fathers accompanied us to the Barge ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.10) afore the College-Gate stood a large Cross , thwack'd full of young Blacks singing Vespers : (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.11) The Town is large , the Houses tiled ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.12) it is called Bandora . (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.13) At our department they gave us Seven Guns , which they have planted on the Front of their College for their own Defence , (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.14) besides they are fitted with good store of Small Arms : Following therein the Advice given by a Statesman to the King of Spain , about the Netherlands ; That if the Society of the Loyolists were multiplied , their Convents might serve for Castles . (FRYER-E3-H,I,183.15) In the middle of the River we had a pleasant Prospect on both sides ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.17) on Bandora side , the College , the Town , the Church of St. Andrew a Mile beyond , (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.18) and upon the Hill that pointed to the Sea , the Aquada , Blockhouse , and a Church ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.19) on the other side , the Church of Maijm , with other handsome Buildings . (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.20) Curiosity led me a second time to visit the Island Canorein , having obtained leave for a longer Stay : (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.21) nor went I alone , some of the best Quality on the Island being led by the same desire , joining themselves with me : (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.22) We carried a Train of Servants , Horses , and Palenkeens , which were ferried over before us ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.23) and we coming soon after , were met by the Fraternity , and conducted to the Fathers , who detained us till Afternoon by a stately Banquet , shewing us the Civility of the Church and College , diverting us both-5 with Instrumental and Vocal Musick , and very good Wine . After which we were dismiss'd and four Mile off Bandora were stopp'd by the Kindness of the Padre -Superior , whose Mandate whereever we came caused them to send his Recarders a Term of Congratulation , as we say , Our Service with the Presents of the best Fruits and Wines , and whatever we wanted . (FRYER-E3-H,I,184.24) Here , not adjoining to any Town , in a sweet Air , stood a Magnificent Rural Church ; in the way to which , and indeed all up and down this Island , are pleasant Aldeas , or Country Seats of the Gentry ; where they live like Petty-Monarchs , all that is born on the Ground being theirs , holding them in a perfect state Villainage , they being Lords Paramount . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.26) From hence , when we had baited , the same Night we travelled easily to Magatana , using our Fowling-Pieces all the way , being here presented with Rich Game , as Peacocks , Doves , and Pigeons , Chitrels , or Spotted Deer . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.27) When we came to the Town , two several Churches strove to receive us ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.28) but having some Acquaintance with the Father of the one , and not with the other , we excused ourselves to the latter , (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.29) and took up with our Friend . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.30) As soon as we came in , the Servitors fetch'd us warm Water to wash our Feet , which was very refreshing ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.31) it put me in mind of Lot's Courtesy to the Angels . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.32) After this , as a piece of extraordinary Civility , they showed us the Necessary House ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.33) and it is so in a Countrey where Fluxes are so common ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.34) and for that reason it is kept as neat as their Lodging Rooms , having Water to Wash after you have used a clean Towel hung there for that Purpose . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.35) This Night we fared very well . (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.36) Next Morn before Break of Day we directed our Steps to the anciently fam'd , but now ruin'd City of Canorein ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,185.37) the way to it is so delightsome , I thought I had been in England ; fine Arable , Pasture , and Coppices ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.38) thus we passed Five Mile to the Foot of the Hill on which the City stands , (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.39) and had passed half a Mile through a thick Wood , peopled by Apes , Tygers , wild Buffolo's , and Jackalls ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.40) here were some Flocks of Parockets : (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.41) When we alighted , the Sun began to mount the Horizon over the Hills , (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.42) and under our Feet , as if he had newly bathed his fiery Coursers , there appeared the Mouth of a Tank , or Aqueduct , out of a Rock , whose steaming Breath was very hot , but water cold : (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.43) From hence it is thought the whole City to be supplied with Water ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.44) for as we ascend , we find such Places , where convenient , filled with Limpid Water , not over-matched in India : (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.45) If it be so , as I know not how to contradict it that it should have its Current upwards through the hard Rocks artificially cut , the World $can $not {TEXT:cannot} parallel so wonderful a Water-course ! (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.46) From hence the Passage is uneasy and inaccessible for more than two abreast , till we come to the City , all cut out of a Rock ; where it is presented Vulcan's Forge , supported by two mighty Colosses , bellied in the middle with two Globes . (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.47) Next a Temple with a beautiful Frontispiece not unlike the Portuco of St. Paul's West Gate : (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.48) Within the Porch on each side stand two Monstrous Giants , where two Lesser and one Great Gate give a noble Entrance ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.49) it can receive no Light but at the Doors and Windows of the Porch , whereby it looks more solemnly ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.50) the Roof is Arched , seeming to be born up by huge Pillars of the same Rock , some Round , some Square , 34 in number . (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.51) The Cornish Work of Elephants , Horses , Lions ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,186.52) at the upper end it rounds like a Bow ; near where stands a great Offertory somewhat Oval , the Body of it without Pillars , they only making a narrow Piatzo about , leaving the Nave open : (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.53) It may be an Feet in Length , in Height feet or more . (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.54) Beyond this , by the same Mole-like Industry , was worked out a Court of Judicature as those going to shew it will needs give Names or Place of Audience , Feet square , all bestuck with Imagery , well Engraven according to old Sculpture . (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.55) On the Side , over against the Door , sate one Superintendent , to whom the Brachmin went with us , paid great Reverence , not speaking of him without a token of worship ; whom we called Jougy , or the Holy Man ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.56) under this the way being made into handsome Marble Steps , are the King's Stables , not different from the Fashion of our Noblemens Stables , (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.57) only at the head of every Stall seems to be a Dormitory , or Place for Devotion , with Images , which gave occasion to doubt if ever for that End ; or rather made for an Heathen Seminary of Devotes , (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.58) and these their Cells or Chappels , and the open Place their Common Hall or School : (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.59) More aloft stood the King's Palace , large , stately and magnificent , surrounded with lesser of the Nobility . (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.60) To see all , would require a Month's time ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.61) but that we might see as much as could be in our allotted time , we got upon the highest part of the Mountain , where we feasted our Eyes with unnumerable Entrances of these Cony-burrows , but could not see one quarter part . (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.62) Whose Labour this should be , or for what purpose , is out of memory ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.63) but this Place by the Gentiles is much adored : (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.64) Some contend for Alexander , (FRYER-E3-H,I,187.65) and as a proof , think they have said enough , when it is received by Tradition , that a great Gap out of a Solid Rock was cut by him to make this an Island : (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.66) But this is contradictory to the Story delivered of Alexander , That he sailed up Indus , and encountred King Porus , of whom some little Remains may be collected , they speaking of that King by the Name of Por in Cambaia , where Alexander landed with his Army ; and followed the Course of Indus , directly contrary to this Place , that lying North-East , this South from thence ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.67) nor do we read his stay in India was so long , to atchieve such Acts as these , this Place being not the only Instance of this nature ; but more probable to be an Heathen Fane , or Idolatrous Pagod , from the Superstitious Opinion they still hold of its Sacredness : Wherefore the Portugals , who are now Masters of it , strive to erace the remainders of this Herculean Work , that it may sink into the oblivion of its Founders . (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.68) Returning to Magatana , we spent some days in riding about the Country , which we found every-where provided with Churches . (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.69) The Chief City of this Island is Tanaw : In which are Seven Churches and Colleges , the chiefest one of the Paulistines ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.70) the Houses Tiled , but low : (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.71) Here are made good Stuffs of Silk and Cotton . (FRYER-E3-H,I,188.72) There is another great Town called Mein , where is a Castle and some Soldiers , towards the Sea ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.73) over against Bacein there is another Fort and Aquada . (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.74) The Portugals suffer none but Christians here : (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.75) It has no Rivers , but only Inlets of the Sea ; but good Springs from the Rocks ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.76) the Ground excellently fertile , either of it self , or by the care of the Inhabitants ; that it yields as good Cabbages , Coleworts , and better Rhadishes than ever I yet saw : (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.77) Besides Garden-Fruit , here are incomparable Water-Melons , and Onions as sweet , and as well tasted as an Apple ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.78) and for the natural growth of the Soil , it is known not only to supply the adjoining Islands , but Goa also . (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.79) It is more than Miles in Length , and in Circumference . (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.80) CHAP. III . (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.82) A VISIT TO BACEIN , A PORTUGAL CITY IN INDIA ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.83) OUR RETURN BY ELEPHANTO , AND THE PUTACHOS , WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE ISLAND BOMBAIM . (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.84) The several Capitaneos of the Portugals are Triennial , which are the Alternate Governments entailed on the Families of the Conquerors , and therefore made Circular ; every one in his course having his turn to rule in some Place or other for Three Years , (FRYER-E3-H,I,189.86) and upon these they can borrow or take up Mony as certain as upon their Hereditary Estates the next Incumbent being Security for the payment : (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.87) Pursuant to this , a new Governour coming to Choul , his Honour the President sent to congratulate him ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.88) and the Admiral of the North coming to Bacein , another was sent on the same Message . (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.89) Nor could the hot Months be over , before John de Mendos , of a Noble Family , sent for me to Bacein for the cure of his only Daughter , illustriously born , handsome , and on the point of Marriage with the Admiral of the North , though not full Twelve years old . (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.90) Leaving Bombaim , at this time of the year , we could go either within or without ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.91) but the first being related to be pleasantest I chose that way ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.92) sailing by Trumbay , where we receive Custom , we might see a comely Church and Aldea : (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.93) At Noon we reached Tanaw : (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.94) Having gained our Passage over the Flats , we made no stay , (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.95) but rowed streight to Bacein ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.96) every half Mile we were presented with fresh Prospects of delicate Country-Mansions ; two of which of special note draw the Eyes of the Beholders ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.97) one of John de Melos , three Mile off Tanaw , it standing high , curiously built , has a Terras Descent with Walks and Gardens half a Mile , till it lead to a spacious Banquetting-house over the Water , with Stone-stairs for Landing : (FRYER-E3-H,I,190.98) Beyond it a Mile , on the side of an Hill , stands Grebondel , a large neat built Town of Martin Alphonso's ; and at top of all , His House , Fort and Church , of as stately Architecture as India can afford ; he being the Richest Don on this side Goa . (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.99) Here we are Land-locked by the Gut , which is fabled to be made by Alexander ; from which we have an open passage to Bacein , it lying bare towards the Sea . (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.100) BACEIN . Is incircled with a round Stone-wall , (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.102) and has a Gate for every Wind ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.103) it is strong enough against the Indians , but not able to endure an European Foe : (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.104) There are upon the Out-walls , and in the Fort , Forty two great Guns ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.105) the Fort in the middle of the City is circular ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.106) towards the Market appears a State-house Piatzed , where the Governour convocates the Fidalgos every Morning upon consultation , in which they all stand , a Chair not being permitted the Governour , though Gouty : (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.107) Towards Evening they meet there to Game . (FRYER-E3-H,I,191.108) Within the Walls are six Churches , four Convents , two Colleges , one of the Jesuits , another of the Franciscans . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.110) It bears the Name of an Academy ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.111) the Students are instructed in the Jesuits College , (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.112) but live in Town : Where is a Library , with Classes of Historians , Moralists , Expositors , and no more . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.113) It is a College of Polite Structure , (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.114) in the Portuco is a Copy of Angelos , representing the Resurrection ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.115) above Stairs , as well as below , are fine square Cloisters , as all their Collegiate Churches have on the sides whereof are their Cells ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.116) they have a spacious Refectory , and a goodly Church ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.117) three parts of the City is devoted to their use . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.118) The Fidalgos for few Artisans are tolerated within the Walls have stately Dwellings , graced with covered Balconies , and large Windows two Stories high , with Panes of Oister shell , which is their usual Glazing among them in India , or else Latised . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.119) They shew their Greatness by their number of Sumbreeroes and Cofferies , whereby it is dangerous to walk late for fear of falling into the Hands of those Pilfering Abusive Rascals . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.120) None but Christians lodge within the City , the Banyans repairing to the Suburbs upon Tattoo . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.121) The City is a Mile and half round ; (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.122) it stands on an Island , separated by a small Channel from the Main , as far off the Island Canorein , as Canorein from Bombaim , and parted after the like nature . (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.123) The Land about is plain , and fruitful of Sugar-Canes , Rice , and other Grain ; a great part of which has lately been destroyed by the Arabs of Muschat , who put them to a sore fright in Bacein : (FRYER-E3-H,I,192.124) and this is done often , setting fire to their Villages , and carrying away their Fidalgos Prisoners , together with their Wives and Families , butchering the Padres , and robbing the Churches without resistance , conceived on a deadly Feud , partly out of revenge of the Portugal Cruelties at Muschat ; but chiefly out of detestation of each other's Religion ; insomuch that Quarter is denied on either side : (FRYER-E3-H,I,193.125) But that on this Pretence . (FRYER-E3-H,I,193.126) The Portugals striving to possess themselves of Muschat , were put to such stress , that had not their Armado come to their relief , they must have desisted their Enterprize : Upon the arrival whereof the new Recruits gained so much on the Arab Governour , that he yielded up the otherwise invincible Fort of Muschat ; where the Portugals acting all nefarious Outrages , contrary to their Promise , the Arabs re-armed themselves with Courage and fresh Succors , and at length beat them from hence to Ormus in the Gulf of Persia ; from whence also they were routed by the help of the English we then being at war with them ; the first blow to their Greatness in these Parts . (FRYER-E3-H,I,193.127) To check these Incursions of the Arabs , the Portugals every Year are at the charge of a lusty Squadron in these Seas , which were those we met on the Coast returning from thence ; who were no sooner gone , than the Arabs sent their Fleet to do this Mischief here ; which now $'t $is {TEXT:'tis} done , they are again in quest of them , (FRYER-E3-H,I,193.128) but they fly as often as these pursue . (FRYER-E3-H,I,193.129) CHAP. II . (FRYER-E3-H,II,177.132) OUR SETTING FORTH FROM GOMBROON , AND LEAVING LHOR . (FRYER-E3-H,II,177.133) At last the Heavens drop Fatness , (FRYER-E3-H,II,177.135) and the Showers refresh the Earth , (FRYER-E3-H,II,177.136) and fill the Tanks with purer Water , washing away the old Filth and Nastiness contracted by the former indispositions of the Seasons . (FRYER-E3-H,II,177.137) And now we having this Opportunity , set forward towards the Evening of the 28=th= of June , the Ships in the Road Saluting us , and the Merchants , both French and Dutch , Conducting us onward of our Way , with Pomp and Ceremony , till we came to the Garden out of the City , where we entertained them with a Sumptuous Treat , and took our Leaves ; they returning to Gombroon , and we going on Three Pharsangs that Night to Band Ally , Inhabited only by Poor People , in pitiful Cabbins covered with the Palm-Tree Boughs , by the Sea-side , expecting Profit , as well by Strangers as by Fishery ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.138) these Houses are placed on Wheels , to draw up and down at their Pleasure . (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.139) Band Ally is the Chast Ally , to whom this Caravan Seraw is Dedicated , in the same manner as we our Churches and places Sacred , to our Saints in Commemoration of them . (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.140) Caravan Seraw , signifies no more than an Inn , viz. Ser , the Head , Raw , of the Way . (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.141) For this Journy we have no Wains for our Baggage , or Chariots for our selves ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.142) we Ride on Horseback , (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.143) and our Sumpters are Loaded on Mules , Asses , or Camels , which march toward Evening and Travel till Morning ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.144) We go but slowly by reason of our Beasts of Burthen , though a greater part of them were dispatched a Month before us by another Road , less Mountainous , though farther about . (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.145) Coming to our Inns , we have no Host , or Young Damosels to bid us Welcome , nor other Furniture than Bare Walls ; no rooms Swept , nor Cleanly Entertainment , Tables neatly Spred , or Maidens to Attend with Voice or Lute to Exhilarate the Weary Passenger ; but instead of these , Apartments covered with Dung and Filth ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,178.146) Musick indeed there is of Humming Gnats pricking us to keep an unwilling Measure to their Comfort : So that here is neither Provision for Man or Beast , only an open House , with no enlivening Glass of Pontack , or Poinant Cheer to encourage the Badness of the March ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.147) but every Four or Five Pharsangs , i. e. Parasangae , a German League , on the King's High way , a Caravan Ser Raw , as dirty as Augeus his Stable , those before always leaving the next comer work enough to cleanse where they have been ; that after coming in Tired , they are more intent to spread their Carpets for Repose , than remove the incrustated Cake of Sluttery , the constant Nursery of Flies and Beetles , they often bringing their Horses into the same Bed-Chamber . (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.148) These Houses Built by Charitable Persons , are always supplied with Tanks and Cisterns , which now run over since yesterdays Rain , and are commonly very Fine and Costly ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.149) but other Commodities we must bring with us , (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.150) otherwise we are likely not only to go to Bed on the bare Ground , but depart more Hungry than we came thither very few Places maintaining Sutlers for Horse-meat , or Diet for the Wayfaring Man : (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.151) Therefore when we undertake this Journy , we carry not only all our Family , but Housholdstuff too ; for which every one has a separate Allowance for his Servant and his Baggage , and a Butler in common , who Mounts the Trojan Horse , supplied with Bread , Wine , Salt , Cold Meat , Knives and Napkins for the Viaticum , in Two Canisters , or Chests hung on each side one , under whose Belly is girt a Metarrah , or Goat Skin full of Wine , and another of Water ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,179.152) a Metarrah full of the latter every one ties to his Horses Saddle , in the fashion of a Leathern Bottel , and a Silver Toss , or Cup , in a Case at the Bow of the Saddle : (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.153) In the middle of the Munsel i. e. a whole Day's Journy the Butler alights , (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.154) and by some advantageous Brook , or Tank , spreads a Table on the Ground , while the whole Caphala refresh : (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.155) We generally make our Munsel from Four in the Afternoon till before Four in the Morning when after a Glass of Wine , and the Fragments of yesterdays Provisions , we betake our selves to Rest with much eagerness , if it be possible among so many strange Customs at first ; as Noise of Carriers Bells , Feeding , Neighing , Breying , and Noise of so many Creatures , Loading and Unloading , with the Singing , Chatting , and Din of Servants , Horse-keepers and Muliteers ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.156) but Custom makes all things familiar and easy , that we generally Repose till Two the next Day ; when our Cook has provided not only our Dinner which is as Sumptuous as if at Home , and brought in with the same Order but furthermore , our necessary Provant for the ensuing Day's Journy ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.157) and after this manner are we fitted to measure out our future Hardships . (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.158) Hither the Banyans , or English Brokers , Accompanied us , they taking their Leave for the Port , we keeping on our Course , Three Englishmen with our Retinue answerable to the Quality of each ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,180.159) we had with us Twenty Camels for Lumber , Fifteen Horses , Three Mules , and Two Asses , besides Three Shotters for our Guides , which are the only Men here also , who wear Plumes of Feathers in their Turbats , small Bells about their Wastes , Truncheons in their Hands , Horse-Cloaths over their Shoulders richly Embroidered on Scarlet , Packthread Shoes on their Feet , and close Jerkins with Breeches below their Knees ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.160) these are our Guides , (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.161) and hold our Horses while we Mount , (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.162) look after them and the Equipments , as Bridles and Furniture , the most mean of which are Silver when we alight ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.163) and are not only swift , but lasting Footmen . (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.164) Beginning to set forward , neither Tract nor Road was followed , all being covered with Sand ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.165) but our Guides steered by their own Experience ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.166) this was not so comfortable , to behold nothing but a Sea of Sand ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.167) for now we began to turn our back upon the Gulf , and steer a more Northern Course , from whence to reflect what Sustenance this barren Earth could produce , that , should our Stores fail , we might want ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.168) yet even for this Jealousy we had not the least shadow of Reason , (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.169) for had we been less provided we might have met with Plenty , every one striving to Vend us Necessaries , to the no small encrease of my amazement how they came by them . (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.170) After we had waded through Two Pharsangs of this Desolate Way , we began to Clamber up those Hills , which seem hanging over the Road of Gombroon , now beating the Hoof on more solid Rocks : (FRYER-E3-H,II,181.171) In this Passage we could here and there descry some Groves of Palms , whose Fruit were tinctured with a Cherry Red , the constant forerunner of their full Maturity ; at which time they look for the same Unhealthiness we do in our Autumn ; though I find them not so superstitiously addicted to Symbols , as the Egyptians to their Hieroglyphicks , (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.172) they express the Year by this Tree ; because this Tree , say they , of all others alone which I before noted of the Coco-Nut Tree , and therefore I think it a kind of Palm at every appearance of the New Moon procreates a fresh Branch , by which Twelve Productions the whole Year is resembled and compleated ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.173) the Trees are Tall and Slender , bearing their Boughs all atop , like a shady Tuft , some standing bolt upright , and others spread abroad , with others flagging and ready to give way to the Birth of more ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.174) when they are Young and in their Infancy , they no sooner sprout up but the prickly Leafs guard its tender Head , which is of a pithy substance , and when Wounded spoils the Trees Growth , so that it Dies ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.175) but while it escapes that danger , it rises by degrees after the former Order , the under Branches bowing Archwise to their upstart Youngsters ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.176) the Leafs are set in Rows like Ribs to a great Spine , arising from a Circular Base , till it end in a sharp Point ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.177) under these Boughs the mighty Branches hang full of Dates in Clusters , (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.178) and which is more than say so , The more $they $'re {TEXT:they'r} Burthened better do they Thrive , Like depress'd Virtue better kept alive . (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.179) So patient under great Loads of this Fruit , that they seem to rejoyce with a more chearful Verdure , and unconcerned reject the withered Boughs , whilst a more lively Product makes them glad by a new Succession ; by which means it keeps Green the whole Course of the Year . (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.180) Nor when the old ones fall , are these only fit for the Fire ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.181) for they being orderly laid , and finely Gilded or Painted between the Beams of the same Wood , supply the Ceilings and other adornments of their best Houses ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,182.182) nor are they less serviceable to Thatch their meaner Cottages : (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.184) The Trunk being deprived of those Combings , from the main Head is beheld a flourishing Peruke of Palms , fit to be worn by the greatest Heroes ; from whence downwards without any Sprouts , it appears all in Coat of Mail Cap-a-pee {COM:sic} , or like a Pine-Apple from its scaly Structure , caused by the falling of the precedent Branches , by which compactness it emulates its Conelike Figure . (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.185) Of these Trees there are Male and Female , (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.186) and which is worthy our Notice , the Female Palms which only Bear will not Bring forth before they are Impregnated at the Roots with the Seed of the Male , first pounded into Meal and sprinkled about them ; which how true I dispute not ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.187) but certainly Tradition has confirmed the Practice , (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.188) and they are not to be persuaded to neglect the Custom . (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.189) In the midst of this Days Munsel , among the Mountains we passed by the Mouth of an horrid Cave ; where they entertain Travellers with Tragick Stories , and a Legend of Fables , as that it is the Road to Hell ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.190) for , say they , whoever Enters never Returns ; as if thence had arose the Proverb , No Redemption from the Shades ; or that of the Poet , --- Facilis descensus Averni ; Sed revocare gradus , hic labor , hoc opus est . (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.191) Easy the $Descent $'s {TEXT:Descent's} to Hell , (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.192) but back again Our steps to call , this is the Work , the Pain . (FRYER-E3-H,II,183.193) But it stuck not on my Fancy , who had been informed of Pleasanter Stages on that Journy , and an higher way to more open Doors . --- (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.195) Patet Atri janua Ditis . (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.196) Hell Gate wide open stands . (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.197) But it may more probably be an Invention to fright Passengers into the right Way , and that they should avoid , by so sad and terrible a Remark , the wrong , which would wilder them in an unlucky Maze ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.198) for here the Way was not only Intricate but Difficult ; whereby I was encouraged to auspicate a more Coelestial Path might lead us to Getche , in the Turkish Language signifying a Goat Village ; which was on Wheels , as the other , being not Twenty Miles distant ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.199) it is in a Sandy Valley full of Shrubs , on which the Camels Feed , but the Asses , Mules , and Horses , on Barly and chopt Straw ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.200) the Persians learn'd the Indians how to Treat their Horses ; where having declared the manner , I forbear here , it being exactly the same (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.201) for these Eight or Nine Munsels they care not to House them , (FRYER-E3-H,II,184.202) but only Cover them with Yawpengees , or Horse-Cloths , (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.203) and expose them to the open Air ; which is not so Unhealthy for them , as for Human Bodies , who carefully prevent such Lodgings for fear of Aches , and other Inconveniences incident thereupon ; wherefore in the middle of the Vale we repaired to the Caravan Ser Raw , almost buried in the Sand , it being the only obstacle to their rowling Billows . (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.204) The next Morn we were waited on by the Country Women bringing us Cheese , and Butter made before our Eyes , with no other Churn than a Goatskin , in which they shook the Milk till Butter came ; Fish , Roots , and Herbs , with all sorts of Pullen : (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.205) In these Two Munsels we only meet with these Servitors , (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.206) in other Places Men appear alone , not allowing their Women that Freedom ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.207) but were they no more tempting than these Swains , $they $'d {TEXT:they'd} have small cause for the Restriction ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.208) for they are Strapping Sunburnt Lasses , with little more Cloaths on than a dark coloured Smock , or Frock ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.209) and for their Meen it is not enticing ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.210) these bring us Water to Drink out of their Tanks , newly filled , which was Thick , Troubled , and Slimy ; for which reason the Vapours , or rather Fumes from the Sun's violence , were very Offensive , and the more irksome , because we were constrained to tarry here another Night , for that the River Rute Conna Shure ; or Salt-Water , was now overflown by the Waters falling from the Mountains beyond the Banks to that excess , that it could not be Forded by Travellers , (FRYER-E3-H,II,185.211) and the Stream ran with that Rapidness , that it was unsafe to venture over till the descending Cataracts had left off pouring on the overswell'd Brinks , and emptied themselves into the wider Gulf , not many Leagues distant hence . (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.212) The Day after , as soon as we heard the Waters were abated , we set forward , (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.213) and found it true what had been reported Three Caphala's not daring to pass the Lake , where they had lain some Days , till we had led the way . (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.214) It was sultry Hot when we assayed to go , (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.215) but Delays in this case were dangerous ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.216) besides , we were uncertain whether it would hold up should we tarry , which made us confide on our Guides , who gave us assurance , that the Marshes were passable ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.217) we were more troubled with Waves of Sand than Water , both which , by Rain , or Wind , keep on their course with some noise till silenced in the Persian Gulf . (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.218) Athwart this Fen , which was upward of Three Miles , was Built not long since , as by the Modern Architecture may be guessed , a stately Stone Bridge with Arches , on which high Banisters with Niches , and a brave paved Cawsey Elegantly Built , which kept pace with us , (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.219) but by the Negligence of these People , as well as Injury of Floods and Sands , it was broke down in several places , especially where the Torrent made the deepest Channel , so that though firm and strong in the greatest part of it , yet by its being ruined in the most needful , it is become impassable ; and though a Work of extraordinary Benefit and Charge , yet already rendred of little Use . (FRYER-E3-H,II,186.220) The rest of this day's Journy was between the Mountains , where we were encounter'd by strange Flashes of Lightning , the Foretellers of this Night's Rain , which we hardly escaped before we came to Caurestan , in all Twenty Miles : (FRYER-E3-H,II,187.222) This Caravan Ser Raw is named from a Tree growing here , and a Village properly so called of which it is a Composition in Persian , it being the first we met with whose Houses were fixed . (FRYER-E3-H,II,187.223) The following Day we continued going between two Chains of Dry and Burnt Hills , through a stony Valley , not without fear of suffocating , although it was near Evening e're we set out , and Yesterday's Showers had benignly distilled on the Fiery Drought , to cool the parched Earth : (FRYER-E3-H,II,187.224) But this is the dreadful Vale , where when the Hot North Winds blow at this time , it sweeps both Men and Beasts away , either-2 by Night or Day , the Heat being as intense and as intolerable as that from the Mouth of an Oven : (FRYER-E3-H,II,187.225) We were conducted through this Furnace by the Divine Protection without being put to make use of the common Remedy in this Exigency , which is , upon perceiving of the hot Blasts , to cast our selves flat on the Ground till they are over , thereby to prevent the Fate attending those who refuse to stoop to this known Prescription , which is , to fall down dead , never to rise more alive , till we were mounted where these two Chains are linked to each other , (FRYER-E3-H,II,188.226) and by their mutual Ascent we were lift up on high , (FRYER-E3-H,II,188.227) and then gently descending we were led down to Goorbazergum , Fifteen miles from Caurestan . (FRYER-E3-H,II,188.228) In this Bottom is a solitary Inn , very commodiously seated ; (FRYER-E3-H,II,188.229) it is surrounded with Mountains , at whose Bottoms are store of Water-Melons , a grateful Cooler in this Extremity of Heat : (FRYER-E3-H,II,188.230) Goor-Bazergum is as it were to say , The Merchants Grave , in the Persian Tongue . (FRYER-E3-H,II,188.231)