<P_1,128.C1>

To the purpose then : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C1.2)

my first nights lodging in <font> Scotland </font> was at a place
called <font> Mophot </font> , which they say , is thirty miles from
<font> Carlile </font> , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C1.3)

but I suppose them to be longer then forty of such miles as are betwixt
<font> London </font> and Saint <font> Albanes </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C1.4)

but indeed the Scots doe allow almost as large measure of their miles ,
as they doe of their drinke , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C1.5)

for an English Gallon either-1 of Ale or Wine , is but their quart ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C1.6)

and <P_1,128.C2> one Scottish mile <paren> now and then , may well
stand for a mile and a halfe or two English </paren>
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.7)

but howsoeuer short or long , I found that dayes iourney the weariest
that euer I footed , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.8)

and at night being come to the Towne , I found good ordinary Countrey
entertainment ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.9)

my fare and my lodging was sweet and good , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.10)

and might haue serued a farre better man then my selfe , although my
selfe haue had many times better : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.11)

but this is to be noted , that though it rained not all the day , yet
it was my fortune to be well wet twise , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.12)

for <font> I </font> waded ouer a great riuer called <font> Eske
</font> in the morning , somewhat more then foure miles distance from
<font> Carlile </font> in <font> England </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.13)

and at night within two miles of my lodging , I was faine to wade ouer
the Riuer of <font> Annan </font> in <font> Scotland </font> , from
which Riuer the County of <font> Annandale </font> , hath it's name .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.14)

And whilst I waded on foot , my man was mounted on horse-backe , like
the <font> George </font> without the Dragon .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.15)

But the next morning , I arose (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.16)

and left <font> Mophot </font> behind me , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.17)

and that day I traueled twenty one miles to a sory Village called
<font> Blithe </font> , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.18)

but I was blithe my selfe to come to any place of harbour or succour ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.19)

for since I was borne , I neuer was so weary , or so neere being dead
with extreme trauell ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.20)

I was founderd and refounderd of all foure ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.21)

and for my better comfort , I came so late , that I must lodge without
doores all night , or else in a poore house where the good-wife lay in
Child-bed , her husband being from home , her owne seruant mayde being
her nurse . A Creature naturally compacted , and artificially adorned
with an incomparable homelines ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.22)

but as things were I must either take or leaue ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.23)

and necessity made mee enter , where we gat Egges and Ale by measure
and by tale . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.24)

At last to bed I went , my man lying on the floore by mee , where in
the night there were Pidgeons did very bountifully mute in his face :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.25)

the day being no sooner come , and hauing but fifteene miles to <font>
Edenborough </font> , mounted vpon my ten toes ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.26)

and began first to hobble , and after to amble ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.27)

and so being warme , I fell to pace by degrees ; all the way passing
thorow a fertill Countrey for Corne and Cattle :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,128.C2.28)

and about two of the clocke in the afternoone <P_1,129.C1> that
Wednesday , being the thirteenth of August , and the day of <font>
Clare </font> the Virgin <paren> the signe being in <font> Virgo
</font> </paren> the Moone foure dayes old , the wind at West , I came
to take rest , at the wished , long expected , ancient famous City of
<font> Edenborough </font> , which I entred like Pierce pennilesse ,
altogether monyles , but I thanke God , not friendlesse ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.29)

for being there , for the time of my stay , I might borrow , <paren> if
any man would lend </paren> spend if I could get , begge if I had the
impudence , and steale , if I durst aduenture the price of a hanging ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.30)

but my purpose was to house my horse , and to suffer him and my
apparell to lye in durance , or Lauender in stead of Litter , till such
time as I could meete with some valiant friend , that would desperately
disburse . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.31)

Walking thus downe the street , <paren> my body being tyred with
trauell , and my minde attyred with moody , muddy , Moore ditch
melancholly </paren> my Contemplation did deuoutly pray , that I might
meete one or other to prey vpon , being willing to take any slender
acquaintance of any map whatsoeuer , viewing , and circumviewing euery
mans face I met , as if I meant to drawe his picture ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.32)

but all my acquaintance was Non est Inuentus ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.33)

<paren> pardon me Reader , that Latine is none of mine owne , I sweare
by <font> Priscians Paricranion </font> , an oath which I haue
ignorantly broken many times . </paren> (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.34)

At last I resolu'd , that the next Gentleman that I met withall ,
should be acquaintance whether hee would or no :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.35)

and presently fixing mine eyes vpon a Gentleman-like obiect , I looked
on him , as if I would suruay something through him , and make him my
perspectiue : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.36)

and hee much musing at my gazing , and I much gazing at his musing , at
last he crost the way (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.37)

and made toward me , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.38)

and then I made downe the street from him , leauing to encounter with
my man , who came after me leading my horse , whom he thus accosted .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.39)

My friend <paren> quoth he </paren> doth yonder Gentleman , <paren>
meaning me </paren> know me , that he lookes so wistly on me ?
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.40)

Truely Sir , said my man , I thinke not , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.41)

but my Master is a stranger come from <font> London </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C1.42)

and would gladly meete some acquaintance to direct him where he may
haue lodging and <P_1,129.C2> horse-meate . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.43)

Presently the Gentleman , <paren> being of a generous disposition
</paren> ouer-tooke me with vnexpected and vndeserued courtesie ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.44)

brought me to a lodging , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.45)

and caused my horse to bee put into his owne stable , whilest we
discoursing ouer a pinte of Spanish , I related as much English to him
, as made him lend me tenne shillings , <paren> his name was Master
<font> Iohn Maxwell </font> </paren> which money I am sure was the
first that I handled after I came from out the walls of <font> London
</font> : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.46)

but hauing rested two houres and refreshed my selfe , the Gentleman and
I walked to see the City and the Castle , which as my poore vnable and
vnworthy pen can , I will truly describe . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.47)

The Castle on a loftie Rocke is so strongly grounded , bounded , and
founded , that by force of man it can neuer be confounded ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.48)

the Foundation and Walls are vnpenetrable , the Rampiers impregnable ,
the Bulwarkes inuincible , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.49)

no way but one to it is or can be possible to be made passable .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.50)

In a word , I haue seene many Straights and Fortresses , in <font>
Germany </font> , the <font> Netherlands </font> , <font> Spaine
</font> , and <font> England </font> , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.51)

but they must all giue place to this vnconquered Castle , both-1 for
strength and scituation . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.52)

Amongst the many memorable things which I was shewed there , I noted
especially a great peece of Ordnance of Iron ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.53)

it is not for batterie , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.54)

but it will serue to defend a breach , or to tosse balles of wilde-fire
against any that should assaile or assault the Castle ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.55)

it lyes now dismonted . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.56)

And it is so great within , that it was told me that a Childe was once
gotten there : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.57)

but I , to make tryall crept into it , lying on my backe ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.58)

and I am sure there was roome enough and spare for a greater then my
selfe . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.59)

So leauing the Castle , as it is both defensiue against any opposition
, and magnificke for lodging and receite , I descended lower to the
City , wherein I obserued the fairest and goodliest streete that euer
mine eyes beheld , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.60)

for I did neuer see or heare of a street of that length , <paren> which
is halfe an English mile from the Castle to a faire Port which they
call the <font> Neather-bow </font> </paren>
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,129.C2.61)

and from that Port , the streete which they call the <font> Kenny-hate
</font> is one quarter of a mile more , downe to the Kings Palace ,
called <P_1,130.C1> <font> Holy-rood-House </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.62)

the buildings on each side of the way being all of squared stone , fiue
, six , and seuen stories high , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.63)

and many by-Lanes and Closes on each side of the way , wherein are
Gentlemens houses , much fairer then the buildings in the high-street ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.64)

for in the high-street the Marchants and Tradesmen do dwell ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.65)

but the Gentlemens mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded
in the aforesaid Lanes : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.66)

the Walles are eight or tenne foote thicke , exceeding strong , not-1
built for a day , a weeke , or a moneth , or a yeere ; but from
Antiquitie to Posteritie , for many Ages ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.67)

There I found entertainement beyond my expectation or merit ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.68)

and there is fish , flesh , bread and fruit , in such variety , that I
thinke I may offencelesse call it superfluity , or faciety .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.69)

The worst was , that Wine and Ale was so scarce , and the people there
such Mizers of it , that euery night before I went to bed , if any man
had asked me a ciuill question , all the wit in my head could not haue
made him a sober answer . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.70)

I was at his Maiestis Palace , a stately and Princely seate , wherein I
saw a sumptuous Chappell , most richly adorned with all appurtenances
belonging to so sacred a place , or so Royall an owner .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.71)

In the inner Court , I saw the Kings Armes cunningly carued in stone ,
and fixed ouer a doore aloft on the wall , the red Lyon being the Crest
, ouer which was written this inscription in Latine , Nobis haec
inuicta miserunt , proaui . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.72)

I enquired what the English of it was ? (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.73)

it was told me as followeth , which I thought worthy to be recorded .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.74)

<font> Fore-fathers haue left this to vs vnconquered {TEXT:vnchnquered}
. </font> (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.75)

This is a worthy and memorable Motto , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C1.76)

and I thinke few Kingdomes or none in the world can truly write the
like , that notwithstanding so many inroades , incursions , attemps ,
assaults , Ciuill warres , and forraigne hostilities , bloody battels ,
and mighty foughten fields , that maugre the strength and policy of
enemies , that Royall Crowne and Scepter hath from one hundred and
seuen descents , kept still vnconquered , and by the power of the King
of Kings <paren> through the grace of the <P_1,130.C2> Prince of peace
</paren> is now left peacefully to our peacefull King , whom long in
blessed peace , the God of peace defend and gouerne .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.77)

But once more , a word or two of <font> Edenborough </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.78)

although I haue scarcely giuent it that due which belongs vnto it , for
their lofty and stately buildings , and for their faire and spacious
streete , yet my minde perswades me that they in former ages that first
founded that Citie did not so well in that they built it in so
discommodious a place ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.79)

for the Sea , and all nauigable riuers being the chiefe meanes for the
enriching of Townes and Cities , by the reason of Traffique with
forraine Nations , with exportation , transportation , and receite of
variety of Marchandizing ; so this Citie had it beene built but one
mile lower on the Sea side , I doubt not but it had long before this
beene comparable to many a one of our greatest Townes and Cities in
<font> Europe </font> , both-2 for spaciousnesse of bounds , Port ,
state , and riches . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.80)

It is said , that King <font> Iames </font> the fifth <paren> of famous
memory </paren> did graciously offer to purchase for them , and to
bestow vpon them freely , certaine low and pleasant grounds a mile from
them on the Sea shore , with these conditions , that they should pull
downe their Citie , and build it in that more commodious place ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.81)

but the Citizens refused it : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.82)

and so now it is like <paren> for me </paren> to stand where it doth ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.83)

for I doubt such another profer of remouall will not bee presented to
them , till two dayes after the Faire . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.84)

Now haue with you for <font> Leeth </font> , whereto I no sooner came ,
but I was well entertained by Master <font> Barnard Lindsay </font> ,
one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.85)

hee knew my estate was not guilty , because I brought guilt with me
<paren> more then my sins , and they would not passe for current there
</paren> (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.86)

hee therefore did replenish the vaustity of my empty purse ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.87)

& discharged a piece at mee with two bullets of gold , each being in
value worth eleuen shillings white money : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.88)

and I was credibly informed , that within the compasse of one yeere ,
there was shipped away from that onely Port of <font> Leeth </font> ,
foure score thousand Boles of Wheat , {TEXT:wheat.} Oates , and Barley
into <font> Spaine </font> , <font> France </font> , and other forraine
parts , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,130.C2.89)

and euery Bole containes <P_1,131.C1> the measure of foure English
bushels , so that from <font> Leeth </font> onely hath beene
transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of Corne ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.90)

besides some hath beene shipped away from Saint <font> Andrewes </font>
, from <font> Dundee , Aberdeene , Disert , Kirkady , Kinghorne ,
Burnt-Iland , Dunbar </font> , and other portable Townes , which makes
me to wonder that a Kingdome so populous as it is , should
neuerthelesse sell so much bread-corne beyond the Seas , and yet to
haue more then sufficient for themselues . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.91)

So I hauing viewed the Hauen and Towne of <font> Leeth </font> , tooke
a passage Boate to see the new wondrous Well , to which many a one that
is not well , comes farre and neere in hope to be made well :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.92)

indeed I did heare that it had done much good , and that it hath a rare
operation to expell or kill diuers maladies ; as to prouoke appetite ,
to helpe much for the auoyding of the grauell in the bladder , to cure
sore eyes , and old vlcers , with many other vertues which it hath ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.93)

but I through the mercy of God , hauing no need of it , did make no
great inquisition what it had done , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.94)

but for nouelty I dranke of it , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.95)

and I found the taste to be more pleasant then any other water , sweet
almost as milke , yet as cleare as cristall ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.96)

and I did obserue , that though a man did drinke a quart , a pottle ,
or as much as his belly could containe , yet it neuer offended or lay
heauy vpon the stomacke , no more then if one had dranke but a pint or
a small quantity . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.97)

I went two miles from it to a Towne called <font> Burnt-Iland </font> ,
where I found many of my especiall good friends , as Master <font>
Robert Hay </font> , one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber ,
Master <font> Dauid Drummond </font> , one of his Gentlemen Pentioners
, Master <font> Iames Acmooty </font> , one of the Groomes of the
Priuie Chamber , Captaine <font> Murray </font> , Sir <font> Henry
Witherington </font> Knight , Captaine <font> Tyrie </font> , and
diuers others : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.98)

and there Master <font> Hay </font> , Master <font> Drummond </font> ,
and the good olde Captaine <font> Murray </font> did very bountifully
furnish mee with gold for my expences , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.99)

but I being at dinner with those aforesaid Gentlemen , as we were
discoursing , there befell a strange accident , which I thinke worth
the relating . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C1.100)

<P_1,131.C2>

I know not vpon what occasion they began to talke of being at Sea in
former times , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.102)

and I <paren> amongst the rest </paren> said , I was at the taking of
<font> Cales </font> ; whereto an English Gentleman replyed , that hee
was the next good voyage after at the Ilands :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.103)

I answered him that I was there also . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.104)

He demanded in what ship I was ? (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.105)

I tolde him in the Rainebowe of the Queenes :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.106)

why <paren> quoth he </paren> doe you not know me ?
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.107)

I was in the same ship , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.108)

and my name is <font> Witherington </font> .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.109)

Sir , said I , I do remember the name well ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.110)

but by reason that it is neere two and twenty yeers since I saw you , I
may well forget the knowledge of you . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.111)

Well said he , if you were in that ship , I pray you tell me some
remarkable token that happened in the voyage , whereupon I told him two
or three tokens ; which he did know to be true .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.112)

Nay then , said I , I will tell you another which <paren> perhaps
</paren> you haue not forgotten ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.113)

as our ship and the rest of the fleet did ride at Anchor at the Ile of
<font> Flores </font> <paren> one of the Iles of the <font> Azores
</font> </paren> there were some foureteene men and boyes of our ship ,
that for nouelty would goe ashore , and see what fruit the Iland did
beare , and what entertainment it would yeeld vs :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.114)

so being landed , we went vp and downe (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.115)

and could finde nothing but stones , heath and mosse ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.116)

and wee expected Oranges , Limonds , Figges , Muske-millions , and
Potatoes : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.117)

in the meane space the wind did blow so stiffe , and the Sea was so
extreme rough , that our Ship-boate could not come to the land to fetch
vs , for feare she should bee beaten in pieces against the rockes :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.118)

this continued fiue dayes , so that we were almost famished for want of
food : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.119)

but at last <paren> I squandring vp and downe </paren> by the
prouidence of God I hapned into a Caue or poore habitation , where I
found fifteene loaues of bread , each of the quantity of a penny loafe
in <font> England </font> , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.120)

I hauing a valiant stomacke of the age of almost of a hundred and
twenty houres breeding , fell to , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.121)

and ate two loaues (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.122)

and neuer said grace : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.123)

and as I was about to make a Horse-loafe of the third loafe , I did put
twelue of them into my breeches , and my sleeues ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,131.C2.124)

and so went mumbling out of the Caue , leaning my backe against a Tree
, when vpon the sudden a Gentleman <P_1,132.C1> came to me , and said ,
Friend , what are you eating ? (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.125)

Bread , <paren> quoth I . </paren> (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.126)

For Gods sake said he , giue me some . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.127)

With that , I put my hand into my breech , <paren> being my best
pantrey </paren> (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.128)

and I gaue him a Loafe , which hee receiued with many thankes ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.129)

and said , that if euer hee could requite it , he would .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.130)

I had no sooner told this tale , but Sir <font> Henry Witherington
</font> did acknowledge himselfe to bee the man that I had giuen the
Loafe vnto two and twenty yeeres before , where I found the Prouerbe
true , that men haue more priuiledge then mountaines in meeting .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.131)

In what great measure hee did requite so small a courtesie , I will
relate in this following discourse in my Returne through <font>
Northumberland </font> : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.132)

So leauing my man at the Town of <font> Burnt Iland </font> , I tolde
him , I would but goe to <font> Sterling </font> , and see the Castle
there , and withall to see my honourable friends the Earle of <font>
Marr </font> , and Sir <font> William Murray </font> Knight , Lord of
<font> Abercarny </font> , and that I would returne within two dayes at
the most : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.133)

But it fell out quite contrary ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.134)

for it was fiue and thirtie dayes before I could get backe againe out
of these Noble mens company . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.135)

The whole progres of my trauell with them , and the cause of my stay ,
I $can $not {TEXT:cannot} with gratefulnesse omit ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.136)

and thus it was . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.137)

A worthy Gentleman named Master <font> Iohn Fenton </font> , did bring
me on my way sixe miles to <font> Dumfermling </font> , where I was
well entertained , and lodged at Master <font> Iohn Gibb </font> his
house , one of the Groomes of his Maiesties Bed-chamber , and I thinke
the oldest Seruant the King hath : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.138)

withall , I was well entertained there by Master <font> Crighton
</font> at his owne house , who went with me , and shewed me the
Queenes Palace ; <paren> a delicate & Princely Mansion </paren>
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.139)

withall I saw the ruines of an ancient & stately built Abey , with
faire gardens , orchards , medowes belonging to the Palace : all which
with faire & goodly reuenues by the suppression of the Abbey , were
annexed to the Crowne . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.140)

There also I saw a very faire Church , which though it bee now very
large and spacious , yet it hath in former times beene much larger .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C1.141)

But I taking my leaue of <font> Dumfermling </font> , would needs goe
and see the truely Noble Knight Sir <font> George Bruce </font> , at a
<P_1,132.C2> Towne called the <font> Cooras </font> :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.142)

there he made mee right welcome , both with varietie of fare ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.143)

and after all , hee commanded three of his men to direct mee to see his
most admirable Colemines ; which <paren> if man can or could worke
wonders </paren> is a wonder : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.144)

for my selfe neither-4 in any trauels that I haue beene in , nor any
History that I haue read , or any Discourse that I haue heard , did
neuer see , read , or heare of any worke of man that might parallell or
bee equiualent with this vnfellowed and vnmatchable work :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.145)

& though all I can say of it , $can $not {TEXT:cannot} describe it
according to the worthines of his vigilant industry , that was both the
occasion , Inuentor , & Maintainer of it : yet rather then the memory
of so rare an Enterprise , and so accomplisht a profit to the
Common-wealth shall bee raked and smothered in the dust of obliuion , I
will giue a little touch at the description of it , although I amongst
Writers , am like he that worst may hold the candle .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.146)

The Mine hath two wayes into it , the one by sea and the other by land
; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.147)

but a man may goe into it by land , and returne the same way if he
please , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.148)

and so he may enter into it by sea , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.149)

and by sea he may come forth of it : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.150)

but I for varieties sake went in by sea , and out by land .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.151)

Now men may obiect , how can a man goe into a Mine , the entrance of it
being into the sea , but that the Sea will follow him , and so drown
the Mine ? To which obiection thus I answer , That at low water , the
sea being ebd away , and a great part of the sand bare ; vpon this same
sand <paren> being mixed with rockes and cragges </paren> did the
Master of this great worke build a round circular frame of stone , very
thicke , strong , and ioyned together with glutinous or bitumous matter
, so high withall that the Sea at the highest flood , or the greatest
rage of storme or tempest , can neither dissolue the stones so well
compacted in the building or yet ouerflowe the height of it .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.152)

Within this round frame , <paren> at all aduentures </paren> hee did
set workemen to digge with Mattockes , Pick-axes , and other
instruments fit for such purposes . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.153)

They did dig forty foot downe right , into and through a rocke .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.154)

At last they found that which they expected , which was Sea-cole ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,132.C2.155)

<P_1,133.C1>

they following the veine of the Mine , did dig forward still : So that
in the space of eight and twenty , or nine and twenty yeeres , they
haue digged more then an English mile vnder the Sea , that when men are
at worke belowe , an hundred of the greatest shippes in <font> Britaine
</font> may saile ouer their heads . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C1.157)

Besides , the Mine is most artificially cut like an Arch or a Vault ,
all that great length , with many nookes and by-wayes :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C1.158)

and it is so made , that a man may walke vpright in the most places ,
both in and out . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C1.159)

Many poore people are there set on work , which otherwise through the
want of imployment would perish . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C1.160)

But when I had seene the Mine , and was come forth of it againe ; after
my thankes giuen to Sir <font> George Bruce </font> , I told him , that
if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England had seene this Mine ,
that they <paren> perhaps </paren> would haue attempted to haue left
the Parliament House , and haue vndermined the Thames , and so to haue
blowne vp the Barges and Wherries , wherein the King , and all the
Estates of our Kingdome were . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C1.161)

Moreouer , I said , that I could affoord to turne Tapster at <font>
London </font> , so that I had but one quarter of a mile of his Mine to
make mee a Celler , to keepe Beere and Bottle-ale in .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C1.162)

But leauing these Iests in Prose , I will relate a few Verses that I
made merrily of this Mine . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C1.163)

<P_1,133.C2>

The Sea at certaines places doth leake , or soake into the Mine , which
by the industry of Sir <font> George Bruce </font> , is all conueyd to
one Well neere the land ; where he hath a deuice like a horse-mill ,
that with three horses and a great chaine of Iron , going downeward
many fadomes , with thirty sixe buckets fastened to the chaine , of the
which eighteene goe downe still to be filled , and eighteene ascend vp
to be emptied , which doe emptie themselues <paren> without any mans
labour </paren> into a trough that conueyes the water into the Sea
againe ; by which meanes he saues his Mine , which otherwise would be
destroyed with the Sea , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C2.165)

besides he doth make euery weeke ninety or a hundred Tunnes of salt ,
which doth serue most part of <font> Scotland </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C2.166)

some he sends into <font> England </font> , and very much into <font>
Germany </font> : all which shewes the painfull industry with Gods
blessings to such worthy endeauours : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,133.C2.167)

I must with many thankes remember his courtesie to me , and lastly how
he sent his man to guide mee tenne miles on the way to <font> Sterling
</font> , where by the way I saw the outside of a faire and stately
house called <font> Allaway </font> , belonging to the Earle of <font>
Marr </font> , which <P_1,134.C1> by reason that his Honor was not
there , I past by and went to <font> Sterling </font> , where I was
entertained and lodged at one Master <font> Iohn Archibalds </font> ,
where all my want was that I wanted roome to containe halfe the good
cheere that I might haue had there ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.168)

hee had me into the Castle , which in few words I doe compare to <font>
Windsor </font> for situation , much more then <font> Windsor </font>
in strength , and somewhat lesse in greatnesse ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.169)

yet I dare affirme , that his Maiesty hath not such another hall to any
house that he hath neither-2 in <font> England </font> or <font>
Scotland </font> , except Westminster Hall which is now no dwelling
Hall for a Prince , being long since metamorphosed into a house for the
Law and the profits . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.170)

This goodly Hall was built by King <font> Iames </font> the fourth ,
that marryed King <font> Henry </font> the $eight $s {TEXT:eights}
sister , and after was slaine at <font> Flodden field </font> ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.171)

but it surpasses all the Halls for dwelling houses that euer I saw ,
for length , breadth , height and strength of building ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.172)

the Castle is built vpon a rocke very lofty , and much beyond <font>
Edenborough </font> Castle in state and magnificence , and not much
inferiour to it in strength , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.173)

the roomes of it are lofty , with carued workes on the seelings , the
doores of each roome being so high , that a man may ride vpright on
horse-backe into any chamber or lodging . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.174)

There is also a goodly faire Chappell , with Cellers , Stables , and
all other necessary Offices , all very stately & befitting the Maiesty
of a King . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.175)

From <font> Sterling </font> I rode to Saint <font> Iohnston </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.176)

a fine Towne it is , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.177)

but it is much decayed , by reason of the want of his Maiesties yeerely
comming to lodge there . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.178)

There I lodged one night at an Inne , the goodman of the house his name
being <font> Petricke Pettcarne </font> , where my entertainement was
with good cheere , good lodging , all too good to a bad weary guest .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.179)

Mine Host told me that the Earle of <font> Marr </font> , and Sir
<font> William Murray </font> of <font> Abercarny </font> were gone to
the great hunting to the <font> Brea </font> of <font> Marr </font> ;
but if I made haste I might perhaps finde them at a Towne called <font>
Breekin </font> , or <font> Breechin </font> , two and thirty miles
from Saint <font> Iohn stone </font> whereupon I tooke a guide to
<font> Breekin </font> the next day , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.180)

but before I came , my Lord was gone from thence foure dayes .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C1.181)

<P_1,134.C2>

Then I tooke another guide , which brought me such strange wayes ouer
mountaines and rockes , that I thinke my horse neuer went the like ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.183)

and I am sure I neuer saw any wayes that might fellow them .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.184)

I did go through a Countrey called <font> Glaneske </font> , where
passing by the side of a hill , so steepe as the ridge of a house ,
where the way was rocky , and not aboue a yard broad in some places ,
so fearfull and horrid it was to looke down into the bottome ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.185)

for if either horse or man had slipt , he had fallen <paren> without
recouery </paren> a good mile downeright ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.186)

but I thanke God , at night I came to a lodging in the Lard of <font>
Eggels </font> Land , where I lay at an Irish house , the folkes not
being able to speake scarce any English , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.187)

but I sup'd (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.188)

and went to bed , where I had not laine long ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.189)

but I was enforced to rise , I was so stung with Irish Musketaes , a
creature that hath sixe legs , and liues like a monster altogether vpon
mans flesh , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.190)

they doe inhabite and breed most in sluttish houses ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.191)

and this house was none of the cleanest , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.192)

the beast is much like a louse in <font> England </font> , both-1 in
shape and nature ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.193)

in a word , they were to me the <font> A. </font> and the <font> Z.
</font> the Prologue and the Epilogue , the first and the last that I
had in all my trauels from <font> Endenborough </font> ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.194)

and had not this High-land Irish house helped me at a pinch , I should
haue sworne that all <font> Scotland </font> had not beene so kind as
to haue bestowed a Louse vpon me : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.195)

but with a shift that I had , I shifted off my Canibals ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.196)

and was neuer more troubled with them . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.197)

The next day I trauelled ouer an exceeding high mountaine , called
mount <font> Skeene </font> , where I found the valley very warme
before I went vp it ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.198)

but when I came to the top of it , my teeth beganne to dance in my head
with cold , like Virginals iacks ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.199)

and withall , a most familiar mist embraced me round , that I could not
see thrice my length any way : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.200)

withall , it yeelded so friendly a deaw , that it did moysten thorow
all my clothes : Where the old Prouerbe of a Scottish Miste was
verified , in wetting me to the skinne . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,134.C2.201)

Vp and downe , I thinke this hill is sixe miles , the way so vneuen ,
stony , and full of bogges , quagmires , and long health , that a dogge
with three legs will out-runne <P_1,135.C1> horse with foure :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.202)

for doe-2 what we could , wee were foure houres before we could passe
it . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.203)

Thus with extreme trauell , ascending and descending , mounting and
alighting , I came at night to the place where I would be , in the Brea
of <font> Marr </font> , which is a large County , all composed of such
mountaines , that Shooters hill , Gads hill , Highgate hill , Hampsted
hill , Birdlip hill , or Maluernes hill , are but Molehills in
comparison , or like a Liuer , or a Gizard vnder a Capons wing , in
respect of the altitude of their tops , or perpendicularitie of their
bottomes . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.204)

There I saw Mount <font> Benawne </font> , with a furrd'd mist vpon his
snowie head in stead of a nightcap : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.205)

<paren> for you must vnderstand , that the oldest man aliue neuer saw
but the snow was on the top of diuers of those hills , both in Summer ,
as well as in Winter </paren> (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.206)

There did I finde the truely Noble and Right Honourable Lords <font>
Iohn Erskin </font> Earle of Marr , <font> Iames Stuart </font> Earle
of Murray , <font> George Gordon </font> Earle of Engye , sonne and
heire to the Marquesse of Huntley , <font> Iames Erskin </font> Earle
of Bughan , and <font> Iohn </font> Lord <font> Erskin </font> , sonne
and heire to the Earle of Marr , and their Countesses , with my much
honoured , and my best assured and approued friend , Sir <font> William
Murray </font> Knight , of <font> Abercarny </font> , and hundred of
others Knights , Esquires , and their followers ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.207)

all and euery man in generall in one habit , as if <font> Licurgus
</font> had beene there , and made Lawes of Equality :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.208)

For once in the yeere , which is the whole moneth of August , and
sometimes part of September , many of the Nobility and Gentry of the
Kingdome <paren> for their pleasure </paren> doe come into these
high-land Countries to hunt , where they doe conforme themselues to the
habite of the High-land-men , who for the most part speake nothing but
Irish ; and in former time were those people which were called the
<font> Red-shankes </font> . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.209)

Their habite is shooes with but one sole apiece ; stockings <paren>
which they call short hose </paren> made of a warme stuffe of diuers
colours , which they call Tartane : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C1.210)

as for breeches , many of them , nor their forefathers neuer wore any ,
but a ierkin of the same stuffe that their hose is of , their garters
being bands or wreathes of hay or straw , with a plead <P_1,135.C2>
about their shoulders , which is a mantle of diuers colours , much
finer and lighter stuffe then their hose , with blue flat caps on their
heads , a handkerchiefe knit with two knots about their necke :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.211)

and thus are they attyred . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.212)

Now their weapons are long bowes and forked arrowes , Swords and
Targers , Harquebusses , Muskets , Durks , and Loquhabor-Axes .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.213)

With these Armes I found many of them armed for the hunting .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.214)

As for their attire , any man of what degree soeuer that comes amongst
them , must not disdaine to weare it : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.215)

for if they doe , then they will disdaine to hunt , or willingly to
bring in their Dogges : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.216)

but if men be kind vnto them , and be in their habit ; then are they
conquered with kindnesse , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.217)

and the sport will be plentifull . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.218)

This was the reason that I found so many Noblemen and Gentlemen in
those shapes . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.219)

But to proceed to the hunting . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.220)

My good Lord of <font> Marr </font> hauing put me into that shape , I
rode with him from his house , where I saw the ruines of an old Castle
, called the Castle of <font> Kindroghit </font> .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.221)

It was built by King <font> Malcolm Canmore </font> <paren> for a
hunting house </paren> who raigned in <font> Scotland </font> when
<font> Edward </font> the Confessor , <font> Harold </font> , and
Norman <font> William </font> raigned in <font> England </font> :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.222)

I speake of it , because it was the last house that I saw in those
parts ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.223)

for I was the space of twelue dayes after , before I saw either House ,
Corne-field , or habitation for any creature , but Deere , wilde Horses
, Wolues , and such like creatures , which made mee doubt that I should
neuer haue seene a house againe . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.224)

Thus the first day wee traueld eight miles , where there were small
cottages built on purpose to lodge in , which they call Lonquhards ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,135.C2.225)

I thanke my good Lord <font> Erskin </font> , hee commanded that I
should alwayes bee lodged in his lodging , the Kitchin being alwayes on
the side of a banke , many Kettles and Pots boyling , and many spits
turning and winding , with great variety of cheere : as Venison bak't ,
sodden , rost , and stu'de Beefe , Mutton , Goates , Kid , Hares ,
fresh Salmon , Pidgeons , Hens , Capons , Chickins , Partridge ,
Moorecoots , Heathcocks , Caperkellies , and Termagants ; <P_1,136.C1>
good Ale , Sacke , White , and Claret , Tent , <paren> or Allegant
</paren> with most potent <font> Aquavitae </font> .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.226)

All these , and more then these we had continually , in superfluous
aboundance , caught by Faulconers , Fowlers , Fishers , and brought by
my Lords Tenants and Purueyers to victuall our Campe , which consisteth
of fourteen or fifteene hundred men and horses ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.227)

the manner of the hunting is this : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.228)

Fiue or sixe hundred men doe rise early in the morning ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.229)

and they doe disperse themselues diuers wayes ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.230)

and seuen , eight or tenne miles compasse , they doe bring or chase in
the Deere in many heards , <paren> two , three or foure hundred in a
heard </paren> to such or such a place , as the Noblemen shall appoint
them ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.231)

then when day is come , the Lords and Gentlemen of their Companies ,
doe ride or goe to the said places , sometimes wading vp to the middles
through bournes and riuers : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.232)

and then they being come to the place , doe lye downe on the ground ,
till those foresaid Scouts which are called the Tinckhell , doe bring
downe the Deere : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.233)

But as the Prouerbe sayes of a bad Cooke , so these Tinckhell men doe
like their owne fingers ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.234)

for besides their bowes and arrowes which they carry with them , wee
can heare now and then a Harquebusse or a Musket goe off , which they
doe seldome discharge in vaine : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.235)

Then after we had stayed there three houres or thereabouts , we might
perceiue the Deere appeare on the hills round about vs , <paren> their
heads making a shew like a wood </paren> which being followed close by
the Tinkhall , are chased downe into the valley where we lay ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.236)

then all the valley on each side being way-laid with a hundred couple
of strong Irish Grey-hounds , they are let loose as occasion serues
vpon the heard of Deere , that with Dogges , Gunnes , Arrowes , Durkes
, and Daggers , in the space of two houres , fourescore fat Deere were
slaine , which after are disposed of some one way , and some another ,
twenty and thirty miles , and more then enough left for vs to make
merry withall at our Rendez-vous . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.237)

I liked the sport so well , that I made these two Sonnets following .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C1.238)

<P_1,136.C2>

Being come to our lodgings , there was such Baking , Boyling , Roasting
, and Stewing , as if Cooke Russian had beene there to haue scalded the
Deuill in his feathers : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C2.240)

and after supper a fire of Firre-wood as high as an indifferent
May-pole : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C2.241)

for I assure you , that the Earle of <font> Marr </font> will giue any
man that is his friend , for thankes , as many Firre trees <paren> that
are as good as any shippes masts in England </paren> as are worth
<paren> if they were in any place neere the Thames , or any other
portable riuer </paren> the best Earledome in England or Scotland
either : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C2.242)

For I dare affirme , hee hath as many growing there , as would serue
for masts <paren> from this time to the end of the world </paren> for
all the shippes , Carackes , Hoyes , Galleyes , Boates , Drumlers ,
Barkes , and Water-crafts , that are now , or can be in the world these
fourty yeeres . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C2.243)

This sounds like a lye to an vnbeleeuer ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,136.C2.244)

but I and many thousands doe knowe that I speake <P_1,137.C1> within
the compasse of truth : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.245)

for indeede <paren> the more is the pitty </paren> they doe grow so
farre from any passage of water , and {TEXT:aad} withall in such rockie
Mountaines , that no way to conuey them is possible to bee passable ,
either with Boate , Horse , or Cart . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.246)

Thus hauing spent certaine dayes in hunting in the Brea of <font> Marr
</font> , wee went to the next County called <font> Bagenoch </font> ,
belonging to the Earle of <font> Engie </font> , where hauing such
sport and entertainement as we formerly had ; after foure or fiue dayes
pastime , we tooke leaue of hunting for that yeere ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.247)

and tooke our iourney toward a strong house of the Earles , called
<font> Ruthen </font> in <font> Bagenoch </font> , where my Lord of
<font> Engie </font> and his Noble Countesse <paren> being daughter to
the Earle of <font> Argile </font> </paren> did giue vs most noble
welcome three dayes . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.248)

From thence we went to a place called <font> Ballo Castle </font> , a
faire and stately house , a worthie Gentleman being the Owner of it ,
called the Lard of <font> Graunt </font> ; his wife being a Gentlewoman
honourably descended being sister to $the $right {TEXT:theright}
Honourable Earle of <font> Atholl </font> , and to Sir <font> Patricke
Murray </font> Knight ; she being both inwardly and outwardly
plentifully adorned with the gifts of Grace and Nature : so that our
cheere was more then sufficient ; and yet much lesse then they could
affoord vs . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.249)

There stayed there foure dayes , foure Earles , one Lord , diuers
Knights and Gentlemen , and their seruants , footmen and horses ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.250)

and euery meale foure long Tables furnished with all varieties : Our
first & second course being threescore dishes at one boord ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.251)

and after that alwayes a Banquet : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.252)

and there if I had not forsworne wine till I came to <font> Edenborough
</font> , I thinke I had there dranke my last .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.253)

The fifth day with much adoe we gate from thence to <font> Tarnaway
</font> , a goodly house of the Earle of <font> Murrayes </font> ,
where that right Honourable Lord and his Lady did welcome vs foure
dayes more . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.254)

There was good cheere in all variety , with somewhat more then plenty
for aduantage : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C1.255)

for indeed the Countie of <font> Murray </font> is the most pleasantest
, and plentifull Countrey in all <font> Scotland </font> ; being plaine
land , that a Coach may be driuen more then foure and thirtie
<P_1,137.C2> miles one way in it , alongst by the Sea-coast .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.256)

From thence I went to <font> Elgen </font> in <font> Murray </font> ,
an ancient Citie , where there stood a faire and beautifull Church with
three steeples , the walls of it and the steeples all yet standing ;
but the Roofes , Windowes , and many Marble Monuments and Toombes of
honourable and worthie personages all broken and defaced :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.257)

this was done in the time when ruine bare rule , and Knox knock'd downe
Churches . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.258)

From <font> Elgen </font> we went to the Bishop of <font> Murray
</font> his house which is called <font> Spinye </font> , or <font>
Spinaye </font> : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.259)

a Reuerend Gentleman he is , of the Noble name of <font> Dowglasse
</font> , where wee were very well wel-comed , as befitted the honour
of himselfe and his guests . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.260)

From thence we departed to the Lord Marquesse of <font> Huntleys
</font> , to a sumptuous house of his , named the <font> Bogg of Geethe
</font> , where our entertainement was like himselfe , free ,
bountifull and honourable . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.261)

There <paren> after two dayes stay </paren> with much entreatie and
earnest suite , I gate leaue of the Lords to depart towards <font>
Edenborough </font> : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.262)

the Noble Marquesse , the Earle of <font> Marr , Murray , Engie ,
Bughan </font> , and the Lord <font> Erskin </font> ; all these , I
thanke them , gaue me gold to defray my charges in my iourney .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.263)

So after fiue and thirty dayes hunting and trauell , I returning , past
by another stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses , called <font>
Stroboggi </font> , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.264)

and so ouer <font> Carny </font> mount to <font> Breekin </font> ,
where a wench that was borne deafe and dumb came into my chamber at
midnight <paren> I being asleepe </paren>

and shee opening the bed , would faine haue lodged with mee :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.266)

but had I beene a <font> Sardanapalus </font> , or a <font>
Heliogabalus </font> , I thinke that either the great trauell ouer the
Mountaines had tamed me ; or if not , her beautie could neuer haue
moued me . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.267)

The best parts of her were , that her breath was as sweet as
sugar-carrion , being very well shouldered beneath the waste ; and as
my Hostesse told me the next morning , that she had changed her
Maiden-head for the price of a Bastard not long before .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.268)

But howsoeuer , shee made such a hideous noyse , that I started out of
my sleepe , and thought that the Deuill had beene there :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.269)

but I no sooner knew who it was , but I arose ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,137.C2.270)

and thrust my dumb <P_1,138.C1> beast out of my chamber ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.271)

and for want of a locke or a latch , I staked vp my doore with a great
chaire . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.272)

Thus hauing escaped one of the seuen deadly sinnes as at <font> Breekin
</font> , I departed from thence to a Towne called <font> Forfard
</font> ; and from thence to <font> Dundee </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.273)

and so to <font> Kinghorne </font> , <font> Burnt Iland </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.274)

and so to <font> Edenborough </font> , where I stayed eight dayes , to
recouer my selfe of falls and bruises which I receiued in my trauell in
the High-land mountainous hunting , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.275)

Great welcome I had shewed me all my stay at <font> Edenborough </font>
, by many worthy Gentlemen , namely , old Master <font> George Todrigg
</font> , Master <font> Henry Leuingston </font> , Master <font> Iames
Henderson </font> , Master <font> Iohn Maxwell </font> , and a number
of others , who suffered mee to want no wine or good cheere , as may be
imagined . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.276)

Now the day before I came from <font> Edenborough </font> , I went to
<font> Leeth </font> , where I found my long approued and assured good
friend Master <font> Beniamin Iohnston </font> , at one Master <font>
Iohn Stuarts </font> house : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.277)

I thanke him for his great kindnesse towards me :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.278)

for at my taking leaue of him , he gaue me a piece of gold of two and
twenty shillings to drink his health in <font> England </font> .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.279)

And withall , willed me to remember his kind commendations to all his
friends : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.280)

So with a friendly farewell , I left him as well , as I hope neuer to
see in a worse estate : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.281)

for he is amongst Noblemen and Gentlemen ; that knowe his true worth ,
and their owne honours , where , with much respectiue loue he is
worthily entertained . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.282)

So leauing <font> Leeth </font> , I return'd to <font> Edenborough
</font> , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.283)

and within the port or gate , called the <font> Netherbowe </font> , I
discharged my pockets of all the money I had :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.284)

and as I came pennilesse within the walls of that Citie at my first
comming thither ; so now at my departing from thence , I came
moneylesse out of it againe ; hauing in company to conuey me out ,
certaine Gentlemen , amongst the which was Master <font> Iames Acherson
</font> , Laird of <font> Gasford </font> , a Gentleman that brought
mee to his house , where with great entertainement he and his good wife
did welcome me . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C1.285)

On the morrow he sent one of his men to bring me to a place called
<font> Adam </font> , to Master <font> Iohn Acmootye </font> his house
, one of the Groomes <P_1,138.C2> of his Maiesties Bed-chamber ; where
with him and his two brethren , Master <font> Alexander </font> , and
Master <font> Iames Acmootye </font> , I found both cheere and Welcome
, not inferiour to any that I had had in any former place .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.286)

Amongst our viands that wee had there , I must not forget the Soleand
Goose , a most delicate Fowle , which breeds in great aboundance in a
little Rocke called the <font> Basse </font> , which stands two miles
into the Sea . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.287)

It is very good flesh , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.288)

but it is eaten in the forme as wee eate Oysters , standing at a
side-boord , a little before dinner , vnsanctified without Grace ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.289)

and after it is eaten , it must be well liquored with two or three good
rowses of Sherrie or Canarie sacke . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.290)

The Lord or Owner of the <font> Basse </font> doth profit at the least
two hundred pound yeerely by those Geese ; the <font> Basse </font> it
selfe being of a great height , and neere three quarters of a mile in
compasse , all fully replenished with Wildfowle , hauing but one small
entrance into it , with a house , a garden , and a Chappell in it ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.291)

& on the toppe of it a Well of pure fresh water .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.292)

From <font> Adam </font> , Master <font> Iohn </font> and Master <font>
Iames Acmootye </font> went to the Towne of <font> Dunbarr </font> with
me , where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed , and brought to
nothing for a farewell : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.293)

there at Master <font> Iames Baylies </font> house I tooke leaue ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.294)

and Master <font> Iames Acmootye </font> comming for <font> England
</font> , said , that if I would ride with him , that neither I nor my
horse should want betwixt that place and <font> London </font> .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.295)

Now I hauing no money or meanes for trauell , began at once to examine
my manners and my want : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.296)

at last my want perswaded my manners to accept of this worthy
Gentlemans vndeserued courtesie . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.297)

So that night he brought me to a place called <font> Cober-spath
</font> , where we lodged at an Inne , the like of which I dare say ,
is not in any of his Maiesties Dominions . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.298)

And for to shewe my thankfulnesse to Master <font> William Arnet
</font> and his wife , the Owners thereof , I must explaine their
bountifull entertainement of guests , which is this :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.299)

Suppose ten , fifteene , or twenty men and horses come to lodge at
their house , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,138.C2.300)

the men shall haue flesh , tame and wild-fowle , fish with <P_1,139.C1>
all varietie of good cheere , good lodging , and welcome ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.301)

and the horses shall want neither hay or prouender :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.302)

and at the morning at their departure the reckoning is iust nothing .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.303)

This is this worthy Gentlemans vse , his chiefe delight being onely to
giue strangers entertainment <font> gratis </font> :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.304)

And I am sure , that in <font> Scotland </font> beyond <font>
Edenborough </font> , I haue beene at houses like Castles for building
; the master of the house his Beauer being his blue Bonnet , one that
will weare no other shirts , but of the Flaxe that growes on his owne
ground , and of his wiues , daughters , or seruants spinning ; that
hath his Stockings , Hose , and Ierkin of the Wooll of his owne Sheepes
backes ; that neuer <paren> by his pride of apparell </paren> caused
Mercer , Draper , Silke-man , Embroyderer , or Haberdasher to breake
and turne bankerupt : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.305)

and yet this plaine home-spunne fellow keepes and maintaines thirty ,
forty , fifty seruants , or perhaps more , euery day releeuing three or
foure score poore people at his gate ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.306)

and besides all this , can giue noble entertainment for foure or fiue
dayes together to fiue or sixe Earles and Lords , besides Knights ,
Gentlemen and their followers , if they bee three or foure hundred men
, and horse of them , where they shall not onely feede but feast , and
not feast but banket , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.307)

this is a man that desires to know nothing so much , as his duty to God
and his King whose greatest cares are to practise the workes of Piety ,
Charity , and Hospitality : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.308)

he neuer studies the consuming Art of fashionlesse fashions ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.309)

hee neuer tries his strength to beare foure or fiue hundred Acres on
his backe at once , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.310)

his legges are alwayes at liberty , not being fettred with golden
garters , and manacled with artificial Roses , whose weight <paren>
sometime </paren> is the Reliques of some decayed Lordship :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.311)

Many of these worthy house-keepers there are in <font> Scotland </font>
, (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.312)

amongst some of them I was entertained ; from whence I did truely
gather these aforesaid obseruations . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.313)

So leauing <font> Coberspath </font> , we rode to <font> Barwicke
</font> , where the worthy old Soldier and ancient Knight , Sir <font>
William Bowyer </font> , made me welcome , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.314)

but contrary to his will , we lodged at an Inne , where Master <font>
Iames Acmooty </font> paid all charges : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C1.315)

<P_1,139.C2>

but at <font> Barwhicke </font> there was a grieuous chance hapned ,
which I thinke not fit the relation to be omitted .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C2.317)

In the Riuer of <font> Tweed </font> , which runnes by <font> Barwicke
</font> , are taken by Fishermen that dwell there , infinite numbers of
fresh Salmons , so that many housholds and families are relieued by the
profit of that fishing ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C2.318)

but <paren> how long since I know not </paren> there was an order that
no man or boy whatsoeuer should fish vpon a Sunday :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C2.319)

This order continued long amongst them , till some eight or nine weekes
before Michaelmas last , on a Sunday , the Salmons plaid in such great
aboundance in the Riuer , that some of the Fishermen <paren> contrary
to Gods law and their owne order </paren> tooke Boates and nettes and
fished , and caught three hundred Salmons ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C2.320)

but from that time vntill Michaelmas day that I was there , which was
nine weekes , and heard the report of it , and saw the poore peoples
lamentations , they had not seene one Salmon in the Riuer ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C2.321)

and some of them were in despaire that they should neuer see any more
there ; affirming it to be Gods Iudgement vpon them for the
prophanation of the Sabbath . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C2.322)

The thirtieth of September we rode from <font> Barwicke </font> to
<font> Belford </font> , from <font> Belford </font> to <font> Anwicke
</font> , the next day from <font> Anwick </font> to <font> Newcastle
</font> , where I found the noble Knight , Sir <font> Henry
Witherington </font> ; who , because I would haue no gold nor siluer ,
gaue me a bay Mare , in requitall of a loafe of bread that I had giuen
him two and twenty yeeres before , at the Iland of <font> Flores
</font> , of the which I haue spoken before .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C2.323)

I ouertooke at <font> Newcastle </font> a great many of my worthy
friends , which were all comming for <font> London </font> , namely ,
Master <font> Robert Hay </font> , and Master <font> Dauid Drummond
</font> , where I was welcom'd at Master <font> Nicholas Tempests
</font> house . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,139.C2.324)

From <font> Newcastle </font> I rode with those Gentlemen to <font>
Durham </font> , to <font> Darington </font> , to <font> Northalerton
</font> , and to <font> Topcliffe </font> in <font> Yorkeshire </font>
, where I tooke my leaue of them , and would needs try my pennilesse
fortunes by my selfe , and see the City of <font> Yorke </font> , where
I was lodged at my right Worshipfull good friend , Master Doctor <font>
Hudson </font> one of his Maiesties Chaplaines , who went with me , and
shewed <P_1,140.C1> me the goodly Minster Church there , and the most
admirable , rare-wrought , vnfellowed Chapter house .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.325)

From <font> Yorke </font> I rode to <font> Doncaster </font> , where my
horses were well fed at the Beare , (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.326)

but my selfe found out the honourable Knight , Sir <font> Robert
Anstruther </font> at his father in lawes , the truely noble Sir <font>
Robert $Swifts house , he being then high Sheriffe of <font> Yorkeshire
</font> , where with their good Ladies , and the right Honourable the
Lord <font> Sanquhar </font> , I was stayed two nights and one day ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.327)

Sir <font> Robert Anstruther </font> <paren> I thanke him </paren> not
only paying for my two horses meat , but at my departure , he gaue me a
letter to <font> Newarke </font> vpon <font> Trent </font> , twenty
eight miles in my way , where Master <font> George Atkinson </font>
mine Host made me as welcome , as if I had beene a French Lord ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.328)

and what was to be paid , as I call'd for nothing , I paid as much ;
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.329)

and left the reckoning with many thankes to Sir <font> Robert
Anstruther </font> . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.330)

So leauing <font> Newarke </font> , with another Gentleman that
ouertooke me , we came at night to <font> Stamford </font> , to the
signe of the Virginitie <paren> or the Maydenhead </paren> where I
deliuered a Letter from the Lord <font> Sanquhar </font> ; which caused
Master <font> Bates </font> and his wife , being the Master and
Mistresse of the house , to make me and the Gentleman that was with me
great cheere for nothing . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.331)

From <font> Stamford </font> the next day we rode to <font> Huntington
</font> , where we lodged at the Post-masters house , at the signe of
the Crowne ; (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.332)

his name is <font> Riggs </font> . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C1.333)

He was informed who I was , and wherefore I vndertooke this my
pennilesse Progresse : wherefore he came vp to our chamber , and sup'd
with vs , and very bountifully <P_1,140.C2> called for three quarts of
Wine and Sugar , and foure Iugges of Beere .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.334)

He did drinke and beginne healths like a Horse-leech ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.335)

and swallowed downe his cuppes without feeling , as if he had had the
dropsie , or nine pound of Spunge in his maw .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.336)

In a word , as he is a Poste , he dranke poste , striuing and calling
by all meanes to make the reckoning great , or to make vs men of great
reckoning . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.337)

But in his payment he was tyred like a Iade , leauing the Gentleman
that was with me to discharge the terrible Shott ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.338)

or else one of my horses must haue laine in pawne for is superfluous
calling , and vnmannerly intrusion . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.339)

But leauing him , I left <font> Huntington </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.340)

and rode on the Sunday to <font> Puckeridge </font> , where Master
<font> Holland </font> at the Faulkon , <paren> mine old acquaintance
</paren> and my louing and ancient Hoste gaue mee , my friend , my man
, and our horses excellent cheere , and welcome ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.341)

and I paid him with , Not a penny of money .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.342)

The next day I came to <font> London </font> ,
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.343)

and obscurely coming within More-gate , I went to a house
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.344)

and borrowed money : (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.345)

And so I stole backe againe to <font> Islington </font> , to the signe
of the Maydenhead , staying till Wednesday , that my friends came to
meete me , who knew no other , but that Wednesday was my first comming
: where with all loue I was entertained with much good cheere :
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.346)

and after Supper we had a play of the life and death of <font> Guy of
Warwicke </font> , played by the Right Honourable the Earle of <font>
Darbie </font> his men . (JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.347)

And so on the Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October , I came
home to my house in <font> London </font> .
(JOTAYLOR-E2-H,1,140.C2.348)