About this time the Rajah , according to the Hindu Custom , was weighed in Gold , and poised about Pagods , which Money , together with an more is to be distributed among the Brachmines after the day he is enthroned , who in great numbers flock hither from all parts of his Territories . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.2) Being earnest to press on his Errand he came for , the Ambassador sent to Narun Gi Pundit to know what was transacted in the Articles ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.3) but was returned for Answer . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.4) The Rajah stopt his Ears to all Affairs , declaring he had granted all the Demands , except those two Articles , expressing , Our Money shall go current in his Dominions , and his on Bombaim ; and that he shall restore whatever Wrecks may happen on his Coasts belonging to the English , and Inhabitants of Bombaim : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.5) The first he accounted unnecessary to be inserted , because he forbids not the passing of any manner of Coins ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.6) nor on the other side , can he force his Subjects to take those Monies whereby they shall be Losers ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.7) but if our Coin be as fine an Allay , and as weighty as the Mogul's , and other Princes , he will not prohibit it . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,206.8) To the other he says , that it is against the Laws of Conchon to restore any Ships , Vessels , or Goods , that are driven ashore by Tempest , or otherwise ; and that should he grant us that Privilege , the French , Dutch , and other Merchants , would claim the same Right ; which he could not grant without breaking a Custom has lasted many Ages : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.9) The rest of our Desires he willingly conceded , embracing with much satisfaction our Friendship , promising to himself and Country much Happiness by our Settlement and Trade : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.10) Notwithstanding Narun Gi Pundit did not altogether despair of obtaining our Wrecks , because we enjoyed the same Privilege in the Mogul , and Duccan Country . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.11) Near a Month after they had been here , Narun Gi Pundit sent word , That to Morrow about Seven or Eight in the Morning , the Rajah Seva Gi intended to ascend his Throne ; and he would take it kindly if they came to congratulate him thereon ; that it was necessary to present him with some small thing , it not being the Custom of the Eastern Parts to appear before a Prince empty-handed . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.12) The Ambassador sent him word , according to his Advice he would wait on the Rajah at the prescribed time . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.13) Accordingly next Morning he and his Retinue went to Court , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.14) and found the Rajah seated on a Magnificent Throne , and all his Nobles waiting on him in Rich Attire ; his Son Samba Gi Rajah , Peshuah Mora Pundit , and a Brachmin of Great Eminence , seated on an Ascent under the Throne ; the rest , as well Officers of the Army as others , standing with great Respect . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.15) The English made their Obeisance at a distance , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.16) and Narun Sinai held up the Diamond Ring that was to be presented him : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.17) He presently took notice of it , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.18) and ordered their coming nearer , even to the Foot of the Throne , where being Vested , they were desired to retire ; which they did not so soon , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,207.19) but they took notice on each side of the Throne there hung according to the Moors manner on heads of Gilded Launces many Emblems of Dominion and Government ; as on the Right-hand were two great Fishes Heads of Gold , with very large Teeth ; on the Left , several Horses Tails , a Pair of Gold Scales on a very high Launce's head , equally poized , an Emblem of Justice ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.20) and as they returned , at the Palace Gate stood two small Elephants on each side , and two fair Horses with Gold Trappings , Bridles , and Rich Furniture ; which made them admire how they brought them up the Hill , the Passage being both difficult and hazardous . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.21) Two days after this , the Rajah was married to a Fourth Wife , without State ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.22) and doth every day bestow Alms on the Brachmins . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.23) Some days after , Narun Gi Pundit sent word the Rajah had signed their Articles , all but that about Money . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.24) Then the rest of the Ministers of State signed them , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,208.25) and they went to receive them of Narun Gi Pundit , who delivered them to the Ambassador with Expressions of great Kindness for our Nation , and offered on all occasions to be serviceable to the English at the Court of the Rajah . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.26) I will only add one Passage during the Stay of our Ambassador at Rairee : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.27) The Diet of this sort of People admits not of great Variety or Cost , their delightfullest Food being only Cutchery , a sort of Pulse and Rice mixed together , and boiled in Butter , with which they grow Fat : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.28) but such Victuals could not be long pleasing to our Merchants , who had been used to Feed on good Flesh : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.29) It was therefore signified to the Rajah , That Meat should be provided for them ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.30) and to that end a Butcher that served those few Moors that were there , that were able to go to the Charge of Meat , was ordered to supply them with what Goat they should expend nothing else here being to be gotten for them , which he did accordingly , to the consumption of half a Goat a Day , which he found very profitable for him , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.31) and thereupon was taken with a Curiosity to visit his new Customers ; to whom , when he came , it was told them , The honest Butcher had made an Adventure up the Hill , though very old , to have the sight of his good Masters , who had taken off of his hands more Flesh in that time they had been there than he had sold in some Years before ; so rare a thing is it to eat Flesh among them ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.32) for the Gentiles eat none , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.33) and the Moors and Portugals eat it well stew'd , bak'd , or made into Pottage ; no Nation eating it roasted so commonly as we do : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,209.34) And in this point I doubt we err in these Hot Countries , where our Spirits being always upon the Flight , are not so intent on the business of Concoction ; so that those things that are easiest digested , and that create the least trouble to the Stomach , we find by Experience to agree best here . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.35) CHAP. V . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.37) Our Passage to Swally , and Relation of the English Presidency at Surat . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.38) After the Rains were over , and the North-East Wind had brought in the Cool Season , by Command from the President I was sent to Surat . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.40) In a Week's time we turned it up , sailing by Bac~ein , Tarapore , Valentine's-Peak , St. John's , and Daman , the last City Northward on the Continent , belonging to the Portugueze . As also passing by Balsore the first Town of the Moors Southward of Surat (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.41) and eight Ships riding at Surat River's Mouth , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,210.42) we then came to Swally Marine , where were flying the several Colours of the Three Nations , English , French , and Dutch , on Flag-Staffs erected for that purpose , who here land and ship off all Goods , without molestation . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.43) Here we were welcomed by the Deputy-President , Mr. Matthew Grey , an Eminent Merchant , and by the rest of the Council , who took care for my Entertainment , which here was but rude , the place admitting of little better Tenements than Booths , stiled by the name of Choultries : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.44) Before President Andrew's time they always lodged in Tents ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.45) but since , Wooden Houses tiled with Pan-Tiles have been raised in an Inclosure allotted by the Governor . In which Compound are included Warehouses , Stables , and other Out-houses , with as good a Garden as this Sandy Soil will allow ; in which ours exceeds the other two , being far pleasanter seated . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.46) To this place belong two sorts of Vermin , the Fleas and Banyans ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.47) the one harbouring in the Sand , fasten upon you as you pass ; where $'t $is {TEXT:'tis} some Pastime to see what Shift the Banyan makes , being bit by them , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.48) he dare not kill them , for fear of unhousing a Soul , according to their Notion of Transmigration ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.49) but giving them a severe Pinch will put them to shift for themselves in a Nest of Cotton-Wool . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,211.50) The other Vermin are the Banyans themselves , that hang like Horse-leeches , till they have suck'd both Sanguinem & Succum I mean Mony from you : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.51) As soon as you have set your Foot on Shore , they crowd in their Service , interposing between you and all Civil Respect , as if you had no other Business but to be gull'd ; so that unless you have some to make your way through them , they will interrupt your going , and never leave till they have drawn out something for their Advantage . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.52) At this time of Shipping they Present the Governor of Surat , to license them to keep a Mart here , which they make the Europeans pay dearly for : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.53) Yet such is their Policy , that without these , neither you nor the Natives themselves shall do any Business , though they are worse Brokers than Jews ; if they be not the Spawn of them , the Rechabites , that would drink no Wine . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.54) These generally are the Poorer sort , and set on by the Richer to Trade with the Seamen for the meanest things they bring ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.55) and notwithstanding they take them at their own rates , get well enough in exchange of Goods with them . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.56) They are the absolute Map of Sordidness , fareing hardly , and professing fairly , to entrap the unwary ; enduring servily foul Words , Affronts and Injuries , for a future hope of Gain ; expert in all the studied arts of Thriving and Insinuation ; so that , Lying , Dissembling , Cheating , are their Masterpiece : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.57) Their whole desire is to have Money pass through their Fingers , to which a great part is sure to stick : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.58) For they well understand the constant turning of Cash amounts both-1 to the Credit and Profit of him that is so occupied ; which these Banyans are sensible of , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.59) otherwise they would not be so industrious to enslave themselves . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,212.60) Having viewed the Tombs by the Sea-side , and some more conspicuous at the end of the Plain belonging to the English ; others seated behind the Dutch Choultry , partly English , partly Dutch : Marks set to avoid , as well the Sylla and Charibdis of Damkin and Mora , two Nurseries for Stews , as to warn them of the Sands coming into the Hole where the Ships ride at Anchor very securely : We in the Company's Coaches Travelled to Surat , Ten Mile , brave Champion ground ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.61) but the Coach wherein I was , breaking , we were forced to mount the Indian Hackery , a Two-wheeled Chariot , drawn by swift little Oxen . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.62) By Sun-set we entred the Company's Barge , waiting to carry us over the River ; where saluted us the dreadful Noise of the Moors Drums and Trumpets , it being customary for them to sound at the Castle every Three hours ; but chiefly at Sun-rise and Sun-set : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.63) I could think of nothing but the last Trump ; so that I could persuade my self there was little Musick in it ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.64) but they say Time will bring it to be agreeable to the Ears . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.65) On the other side the River , other Four wheeled Coaches expected us , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.66) and the Moors let us pass the Custom-house without Examination , having Women among us ; which was no ordinary point of Civility , they otherwise being strict Examiners , unless the President cross the River , when they forbear also . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,213.67) The Coach where the Women were , was covered with Cheeks , a sort of hanging Curtain , made with Bents variously Coloured with Lacker , and Chequered with Packthred so artificially , that you may see all without , and your self within unperceived : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.68) Ours was open , and guarded by such a Troop as went to apprehend our Saviour , dressed after the same manner we find them on old Landskips , and led by the same Phanatick Lights we see there Painted . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.69) Our Reception at the English House was Courteous and Welcome , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.70) for the Heat of the Day had tired us . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.71) The House the English live in at Surat , is partly the King's Gift , partly hired ; Built of Stone and excellent Timber , with good Carving , without Representations ; very strong , for that each Floor is Half a Yard thick at least , of the best plastered Cement , which is very weighty . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.72) It is contrived after the Moor's Buildings , with upper and lower Galleries , or Terras-walks ; a neat Oratory , a convenient open Place for Meals . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.73) The President has spacious Lodgings , noble Rooms for Counsel and Entertainment , pleasant Tanks , Yards , and an Hummum to Wash in ; but no Gardens in the City , or very few , though without they have many , like Wildernesses , overspread with Trees . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.74) The English had a neat one , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,214.75) but Seva Gi's coming , destroyed it : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.76) It is known , as the other Factories are , by their several Flags flying . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.77) Here they live in Shipping-time in a continual hurlyburly , the Banyans presenting themselves from the hour of Ten till Noon ; and then Afternoon at Four till Night , as if it were an Exchange in every Row ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.78) below stairs , the Packers and Warehouse-keepers , together with Merchants bringing and receiving Musters , make a meer Billinsgate ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.79) for if you make not a Noise , they hardly think you intent on what you are doing . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.80) Among the English , the Business is distributed into four Offices ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.81) the Accomptant , who is next in Dignity to the President , the general Accompts of all India , as well as this place , passing through his hands ; he is Quasi Treasurer , signing all things , though the Broker keep the Cash . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.82) Next him is the Warehouse-keeper , who registers all Europe Goods Vended , and receives all Eastern Commodities Bought ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,215.83) under him is the Purser Marine , who gives Account of all Goods Exported and Imported , pays Seamen their Wages , provides Waggons and Porters , looks after Tackling for Ships , and Ships Stores . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.84) Last of all is the Secretary , who models all Consultations , writes all Letters , carries them to the President and Council to be perused and signed ; keeps the Company's Seal , which is affixed to all Passes and Commissions ; records all Transactions , and sends Copies of them to the Company ; though none of these , without the President's Approbation , can act or do any thing . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.85) The Affairs of India are solely under his Regulation ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.86) from him issue out all Orders , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.87) by him all Preferment is disposed ; by which means the Council are biassed by his Arbitrament . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.88) The whole Mass of the Company's Servants may be comprehended in these Classes , viz. Merchants , Factors , and Writers ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.89) some Blewcoat Boys also have been entertained under Notion of Apprentices for Seven Years , which being expired , if they can get Security , they are capable of Employments . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.90) The Writers are obliged to serve Five Years for l. per Ann. giving in Bond of l. for good Behaviour , all which time they serve under some of the forementioned Offices : After which they commence Factors , and rise to Preferment and Trust , according to Seniority or Favour , and therefore have a l. Bond exacted from them , and have their Salary augmented to l. per Ann. for Three Years , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.91) then entring into new Indentures , are made Senior Factors ; and lastly , Merchants after Three Years more ; out of whom are chose Chiefs of Factories , as Places fall , and are allowed l. per Ann. during their stay in the Company's service , besides Lodgings and Victuals at the Company's Charges . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.92) These in their several Seigniories behave themselves after the Fundamentals of Surat , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.93) and in their respective Factories live in the like Grandeur ; from whence they rise successively to be of the Council in Surat , which is the great Council ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,216.94) and if the President do not contradict , are Sworn , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.95) and take their place accordingly , (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.96) which consists of about Five in Number , besides the President , to be constantly Resident . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.97) As for the Presidency , though the Company seldom interpose a deserving Man , yet they keep that Power to themselves , none assuming that Dignity till confirmed by them : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.98) His Salary from the Company is l. a Year ; half paid here , the other half reserved to be received at home , in case of misdemeanour , to make satisfaction ; beside a Bond of l. Sterling of good Securities . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.99) The Accountant has 72 l. per Annum , Fifty Pound paid here , the other at home : (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.100) All the rest are half paid here , half paid at home , except the Writers , who have all paid here . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.101) Out of the Council are elected the Deputy-Governor of Bombaim , and Agent of Persia ; the first a Place of great Trust , the other of Profit ; though , by the appointment from the Company , the second of India claims Bombaim , and the Secretary of Surat the Agency of Persia , which is connived at , and made subject to the Will of the President , by the Interest of those whose Lot they are ; chusing rather to reside here , where Consignments compensate those Emoluments ; so that none of the Council , if noted in England , but makes considerably by his Place , after the rate of Five in the Hundred , Commission ; (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.102) and this is the Jacob's Ladder , by which they ascend . (FRYER-E3-P2,1,217.103) From Bonaru to Mousar , another Eight-square Caravan , are Fifteen Miles , fine , plain , and easy way ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,200.105) near the Caravan Ser Raw was a pleasant Garden , the utmost extent of the Caun of Lhor's Dominions on this Road . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,200.106) And as a Boundary thereto , is opposed the steepest Hill we have yet met with , insomuch that we found it a notable Task to gain the Top by the Morning of the following Day , contenting our selves to sit down at Chawtalk , but Nine Miles from Bonaru , being advised of a more troublesome Day's Journy the Munsel after this ; not so difficult for Access as this , but a more continued Labour by the multitude of Mountains we were to Master , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,200.107) and on that account it was highly necessary to Feed our Caphala's well before we undertake so great a Work . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.109) Chawtalk , by the most valuable Munificence of the Benefactor , yet living to Oversee this good Deed compleated is a noble new Caravan , an Ample and Princely Building : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.110) Near to it was , not long since , only a Well of Bitter Water , which gives Name to the Place ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.111) but by Cost and Inquest of this Pious Benefactor , Sweeter Waters are at this time produced , something more remote , for Men to Drink , though the Cattel refuse not generally the other . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.112) On these Mountains the Mastich Tree brings forth plenty of that Gum , of which the Country People make good Profit : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.113) Nor does less Benefit accrue by the Mellifluous Dew a-Nights turn'd into Manna , from the Leafs and Shrubs , as well as Plants , upon the sides of these Mountains , which are not altogether so Barren as those we have hitherto passed ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.114) this Manna is White and Granulated , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.115) and , what I have found my self , I think not inferior to the Calabrian . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.116) As for the Mastick Trees , they bore Red Berries , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.117) and if wounded would spew out the liquid Resin from the Branches ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.118) they are not very tall , of the bigness of our Bully Trees : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,201.119) Whether they bring forth a Cod or not , this Season would not inform me , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.120) nor can I say it agrees in all respects with the Lentisk Tree of Clusius . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.121) Here also grows the Wild or Bitter Almond , the Wands or Sticks of which are in Esteem , for that Tradition of their being of the same Tree with those of Aaron's Rod which budding brought forth Almonds , and for that reason are worn by those of the highest Rank among them : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.122) More of this anon . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.123) And now the time approaches we must pass over in one Day as many Mountains as we have hitherto been conquering , some of whose Clifts could never be gained , had they not been joined together by vast Arches from Rock to Rock , their dismal Pits otherwise being rendred impassable : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.124) Thus by inexpressible Endeavours we strive to clear this formidable Chain of Hills , all in the Heat of the Sun not daring to trust our selves in the Night , whereby we had our Skins flead off of those Parts exposed to the Solar Rays ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.125) and those that fared best had Bladders raised , as if scalded or burnt by the Fire ; for which , when we had travell'd One and twenty Miles , we found at Gerom a ready Medicine of the Butter of the Seed of Gourds made into an Ointment , which appeased the Inflammation by its cooling Virtue , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.126) and immediately asswaged the Pain by Basting our selves herewith , being half Roasted . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.127) We refreshed our selves one entire Day at Gerom , where a small White Grape , without any Stone , was an excellent Cordial ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.128) the Wine pressed from it is white also , and the strongest by Natural Fermentation only , that I ever drank ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.129) they are called Kismas Grapes , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,202.130) and the Wine is known by the same Name farther than where they grow , it being of so stout a Body that it is not subject to decay presently ; though their best Wines when they begin to turn , are fit for nothing but Vinegar , they being inexpert either in their Cure , or to preserve them ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.131) that which we drink is pure , without any Sophistication . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.132) There grow no where better Dates than at this Town ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.133) and packed up dry are preferred before others all the World over . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.134) The People that dwell here are for the most part blind ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.135) for of Three you meet , Two shall not see , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.136) and it may be a Third shall have but half an Eye . The Occasion whereof , as they report , is , because little pretty coloured Mice and Weasels by their poysonous Stale infect the Trees so , that they produce Worms , the Parent of this Distemper ; more truly fancying than proving this Secret , for want of that Microscope whereby Kepler assisted this enquiring Age to discover , That no kind of Plant whatsoever but procreates of its superfluous juice some putrid Humour , which by active Nature is enliven'd into Vital Motion , forming to every one their proper Insects . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,203.137) Whether any Virulency may be ascribed to these , or the immoderate eating of Dates ought to be accused of their excessive Heat , as we do Wormwood , which for that reason we account offensive to the Eyes , I know not ; following herein the Prince of Physicians , Calidis enim qui saepe multumque utuntur , nervorum infirmitatem adferunt , in Aph. 16. Hyp. lib. 5. who says , They who accustom themselves to eat Hot things , bring on themselves the Weakness of the Nerves , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.138) and consequently decay their Eyesight , the Optick Nerves being signally affected , through which Organs , Spirits ought to be conveyed principally for the service of the Eyes . To which Evil no doubt Sympathy makes a great Addition , whether in the Individual , or in respect of others : Wherein the Poet Philosophized , when he sang , Cum spectant oculi laesos laeduntur & ipsi . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.139) But above all , the Sands , which have here the same effect as elsewhere . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.140) This is a Free Town , enfranchis'd with Liberties peculiar to its self , being independent on any other Governor but its own ; though he be but a Calenture or Bayliff , giving Laws , and ruling by his own Power , being accountable to none but the Emperor : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.141) His Jurisdiction spreads a great way , for that he is not inferior in Wealth to many Cauns , only somewhat less in Dignity . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.142) Mr. Herbert in his Itinerary relates Gerom to have its denomination from certain Jews who took up their Abode here , and gave it this Name in honour of their Kirjoth-Jerom : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.143) But whether more of that Nation dwell here than in other great Towns , I am not thoroughly advertised , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.144) and therefore forbear determining . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.145) A Mile from the Town had been a Coloss , now half ruined by Age , bearing still some Marks of its pristine Majesty , it being more than Sixty Foot high , and Thirty in Circumference , raised in Memory of some departed Saint ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.146) it overlooks a great many more humble Tombs , not liable therefore to such Dilapidation . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,204.147) Leaving these , we pass through plough'd Fields , sowed with Wheat and almost mowed , it being Harvest time . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.149) In this Plain abundance of Liquorice grows wild ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.150) and by the Brooks sides are planted Country Mansions , with store of Sallows and Willows . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.151) At Midnight we came to Mocock Sugta i. e. a dry Clove Twenty two Miles , having forded several Plashes where flourished lascivious Shrubs , more like Southernwood than Osiers , till we were inclosed in in the Mountains . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.152) The Rhadars here had apprehended a sturdy Thief , who had set upon a poor Merchant , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.153) and drove away his Ass loaded with Indian Cloth : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.154) These sort of Vermin are rare , either for the exemplary Punishment inflicted , which is Immuring , when detected , or for the former mentioned Satisfaction to be made by the Shawbunder , who employs these Rhadarees , restoring to every one their proper Goods , or else giving them the full Value . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.155) I shall not deviate much to give a credible Instance from our Agent , who upon the Road by the Remissness of the Shotters had his Gold Bridle and other Furniture stole out of a Caravan Ser Raw , after they had come tired in . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,205.156) As soon as they were missing , upon notice given to the Captain of the Rhadars , a strict Search being made presently , it was not long e're the Criminal was detected , and taken with his Prize , the latter restored , and the other left to the Mercy of the Agent , who might have cut him to pieces without any other Formality of Process , had he not delivered him over to be chastised by his Accusers , who were not wanting to inflict what Punishment his Fact deserved , the next Caun adjudging him the Severity of the Law . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,206.157) Here again over the Portal of the Inn , were advanced the Crests to the Persian Arms , I mean huge Rams-heads , Horns and all , which declare what would seem monstrous to relate , they surpassing in Bulk as well as Courage all those of other Nations ; not-4 for their Heads alone , but their Tails , which sometimes prove such Incumbrances , that unless small Carts were ordained for their Carriage especially the tame ones , they would trail upon the Ground , and wound themselves against every sharp Stone and rough Piece of Ground : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,206.158) But these exalted are the Offspring of the Mountains , sheltring themselves among the Rocks and untrodden Paths of the Hills . Where , and in our Passage , grew the Mountain- Poly , which struck our Scent , till we descended a Fruitful Valley , abounding with Springs of Water , which gave Increase to many Furlongs loaded with Rice or Paddy , being courser than the Indian ; from whence not only Persia , but all the World besides , must fetch the best and finest Rice . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,206.159) This Valley led us to Caifer , some Five Pharsangs , a Village blest with all Fruits Persia glories in , but above all , the choicest Oranges ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,206.160) but this unseasonable Year , with the help of the Locusts , had blasted them all . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.161) This Town , as it terminates the Bounds of Gerom , so it puts an end to the genuine Growth of the Palm-Tree , it being barren beyond this Place , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.162) and therefore only set in Great Mens Gardens for Shew , it delighting rather in Hot and Dry Ground , such as Sands , and such as come nighest in Nature to them : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.163) Moreover , the Climate beyond this Place admits of too cold a Winter for their Nourishment , which I impute to be the chiefest Cause . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.164) This Town is planted in the Bosom of two Rows of Hills , reaching Siras , which delivers us to a delightful Plain , adorned with Cypress-Trees on each hand , and plenteously stored with Villages and Running Water on every side . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.165) And now it was pleasant to behold the Harvest-men labouring with their Sythes , the Wheat blading low ; the Ruther Beasts with distended Bags grazing in the Meadows , the Sheep with their broad Tails gathered into Folds , and the wary Shepherd on his Guard to defend them , as well as to dress them when infected with any Maladies ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.166) the Groves look'd Green , as in the midst of Summer's Pride , whose Bowers the Winged Choristers made chearful with their unconfined Notes , their Mirth as free as their Melody untaught , being actuated by no other Rule than Instinct . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.167) These gave us hopes of future Moderation ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.168) nor were they flattering ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.169) for we had not traced Ten Miles of this pleasant Way , when we came to Firaw , The Foot of the Way , where Aga Tocke had placed a Caravan Ser Raw ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,207.170) but here we were forced to gather those Garments close about us , the wearing of which we hitherto rather thought an useless Decency , than a real Requisite . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.171) From hence to Mussaferry we toiled through rugged and uneasy Ways to a very splendid Caravan Ser Raw , some Fourteen Miles more , where we took our Rest : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.172) And thence along a sweet Campaign , watred by a delicate Rivulet on the Left , at the Bottom of the declining Hills , bestowing its Blessing on the adjacent Villages and Country Towns . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.173) We continued journying all this Night ; wherefore the Sun had gilded the Firmament with his Vermilion Red , before we took up at Bobba Hodge , Thirty Miles compleat from our last Stage . Where intending to have been quiet , we were interrupted more than ever by impertinent Gnats and Flies , by reason of the Concourse of Waters nourishing abundance of Rushes and Fenny Plants , which harboured these and gave them Refuge in the Day , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.174) but at Night they broke out of their Lurking-Places , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.175) and beset us with that Rage and Force , that no Resistance or Fence can be made against them ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,208.176) for , say they hyperbolically , They will bite through Armour ; the best Persian Boots which are low-heel'd and good Cordavan Leather being not Proof against their Assaults . Wherefore the Eve to the same Day , to avoid these invincible Assailants , the disturbers of our Repose , we held on our Pace through Pasture-Grounds , such as our Commons , where they are down-fed , that little more than Green-Sod appears , in which were wanton Foles and unback'd Colts , with Mares for Breed , and unbridled Stallions , sporting on the spacious Downs , which brought us onwards to Siras Twelve Miles more , viz. to the Beggars-Garden but one Pharsang short of the City called Udgewally . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.177) Here we had scarcely alighted , but the French Agent having notice of our coming , beat up our Quarters , and broke us of our Sleep . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.178) By Break of Day the Armenian Christians , which are numerous , came to congratulate our Arrival , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.179) and brought Banquets of Wine , Fruit , and a Cold Treat , with Led Horses of State , and loud Musick , to make our Entry the more Pompous . In order whereunto , about Eleven in the Morning , conducted with much Ceremony , we approached Siras , where we found Spectators answerable to the Novelty of our Appearance , and the Greatness of our Train , with which we were passing through this City nigh Two Hours , before we were enclos'd within the Walls of the English House , which is a Noble one , in the middle of a stately Garden . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.180) Hither came the Fathers of all Orders to bid us Welcome , that were resident in the several Convents allowed them in this City ; all which , and other Christian Attendants , were not dismiss'd till after a Splendid Dinner provided by our Interpreter , who makes some Thousands a Year by the License of our Winepress , the Profit whereof is wholly his . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,209.181) The Wines of the Growth of this Country are esteemed the most Stomachical and Generous in all Persia , and fittest for common drinking , when allayed a little with Water , otherwise too heady for the Brain , and heavy for the Stomach , their Passage being retarded for want of that proper Vehicle : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.182) It is incredible to see what Quantities they drink at a Merry-meeting , and how unconcerned the next day they appear , and brisk about their Business , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.183) and will quaff you thus a whole Week together . In which Exercise when they engage , they observe this Maxim , Always to lay in Ballast , they eating heartily ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.184) and all the time that Healths are passing about , they have Cucumbers , Melons , and other Fruits before them , which must be acknowledged to receive the most perfect Ripeness , and therefore are more innocent here than any where else . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.185) Tobacco is a general Companion ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.186) and to give them their due , they are Conversable Good-Fellows , sparing no one his Bowl in their turn ; (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.187) and to be sure none shall escape a Nosegay , Orange , or some such Mark as passes with every Health ; so that sometimes when they mind Discourse more than the Business in hand , a whole Nest of Posies wait on one Man , who must clear himself , or disgust those whose Healths remain unpledg'd . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.188) Having discharg'd the Fatigue of this Day , it remained incumbent on our parts to return these Civilities , which was to renew the Trouble again , each striving to outvye others in their Entertainments : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.189) In these Courteous Visits we spent a Week , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.190) nor was that sufficient , (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.191) but we being late in the Year for this Journey to Spahaun , our Interpreter excused our Neglect . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,210.192) CHAP. IV . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.195) Of Siras , and the Ancient City Persepolis , and our Journying quite through Persia . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.196) In our Stay here we had Opportunity to observe Siras , not only by Fame , but indeed to be , second to none , except the Royal City , in the whole Empire : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.198) And in this Country , the Country which is properly Persia extended from the Gulph to Esduchos , which parts Parthia from it by a great Ditch made for a Boundary on that Side to this Ancient Kingdom it is the principal Metropolis . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.199) It is delivered as a Tradition , That it arose from the Ruins of Persepolis : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.200) Others will have it as old as Cyrus , who contend for him to be the Founder , for that the nearness of the Name intimates as much : (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.201) But that he should raise it as a Monument , seems not so probable , who would not permit it at his Death , as that these People , devoted to his Memory , might on the Miscarriage of Persepolis , raise this in Honour of him , whose Remembrance might at once revive the Glory of the then fallen Monarchy , and bury the hated Name of the new Conqueror in Oblivion , who had sullied all his Lawrels by hearkning to the unlimited Revenge of a Prostitute , to lay the most flourishing Persepolis in Ashes , from whence , Phoenix like , this is supposed to spring . (FRYER-E3-P2,2,211.202)