Sect. 4 . (LANGF-E3-P2,46.2) I am now going to discribe another way that I never read of , neither ever knew more than one that used it , and he a skilful Gardiner and us'd it very much : (LANGF-E3-P2,46.3) Knowing no name for it I have given it the name of Side-graffing . (LANGF-E3-P2,46.4) $It $'s {TEXT:It's} done by preparing the Scion as in Whip-graffing ; (LANGF-E3-P2,46.5) then without cutting off the head of the Stock , but making it thin of side Branches from a smooth place of it on the West-side , take off as much bark as the Scion will cover as in Packing (LANGF-E3-P2,46.6) and slit both Scion and Stock , according to the directions given of Lipping or Tonguing in the end of the last Section , (LANGF-E3-P2,46.7) and fix them together accordingly : (LANGF-E3-P2,46.8) Bind it close (LANGF-E3-P2,46.9) and clay it . (LANGF-E3-P2,46.10) If it grow , at a years end cut off the top of the Stock at the graffed place slopewise , (LANGF-E3-P2,46.11) and clay it . (LANGF-E3-P2,46.12) Some done thus grow well , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.14) and I have used it successfully , the transient sap uniting it well to the Stock , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.15) and it groweth fast if the head of the Stock be not too big to rob it of the sap and drop upon it , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.16) therefore suffer not the top of the Stock much to over grow the Scion the first year before $it $'s {TEXT:it's} cut quite off . (LANGF-E3-P2,47.17) There is another way of this kind , I have known used , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.18) and is easier done than the former , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.19) that is , to slit the bark of the Stock in the form of a great T , and loosening it with the point of a Knife , and then clapping in a Scion , prepared as hath been said before , but without the slit for Lipping , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.20) bind and clay it . (LANGF-E3-P2,47.21) This can be used only when the bark will part from the Stock . (LANGF-E3-P2,47.22) Sect. 5 . (LANGF-E3-P2,47.23) The next way is that which is called Graffing in the Cleft , and is very ancient , and still used by common-Planters , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.24) and $it $'s {TEXT:it's} thus performed . (LANGF-E3-P2,47.25) Cut off the head of the Stock even and smooth , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.26) cleave it with a strong Knife , or Chissel , hereafter described when I speak of Pruning big Trees (LANGF-E3-P2,47.27) let the slit run near two inches deep , (LANGF-E3-P2,47.28) let it be as near the middle of the stock as you can , but not in the pith or heart ; (LANGF-E3-P2,47.29) have in readiness a stick of hard Wood , near a foot long , at one end made like a wedge ; (LANGF-E3-P2,48.30) when you have taken out the Cleaver , put the wedg into the slit , (LANGF-E3-P2,48.31) and open it so wide as to put in the Scion , when $it $'s {TEXT:it's} prepared . Which is by cutting it down slope on each side , about an inch in length , beginning at the joynt , but leaving it much thinner on that side that goeth into the Stock than the other that is outward , (LANGF-E3-P2,48.32) that side must be outward that will cause it to lean rather outward than inward ; (LANGF-E3-P2,48.33) you may let it have a shoulder on one side , or both , or neither , (LANGF-E3-P2,48.34) all these ways are used ; (LANGF-E3-P2,48.35) but shouldering takes up more time , (LANGF-E3-P2,48.36) and makes the Scion weaker , and so apter by any chance to be broke off . (LANGF-E3-P2,48.37) Then with your Knife cut away any jags , or roughness , or blackness that remains after cleaving on each side of the cleft within , (LANGF-E3-P2,48.38) and so put in either one or two Scions according as your stock is in bigness , (LANGF-E3-P2,48.39) place them so as the passage of the sap betwixt the bark and wood , both-2 of the Stock and Scion , may meet all along the cleft , as near as you can ; (LANGF-E3-P2,48.40) draw then forth your wedge , (LANGF-E3-P2,48.41) and if the stock be a big strong stock , and do pinch the Graffs , drive a little wedge of dry wood into the slit , but not so as to let the Scions loose ; (LANGF-E3-P2,48.42) or for such strong stocks cut the Graffs as thick on that side that goes into the stock , as on the outside , which will prevent the stocks hurting the sappy part and bark of the Scion . (LANGF-E3-P2,49_misnumbered_as_59.44) Many cleave big stocks cross-wise again , (LANGF-E3-P2,49_misnumbered_as_59.45) and put in two more Scions (LANGF-E3-P2,49_misnumbered_as_59.46) but cleaving hurts the stock so much that you had better if you will have more than two Scions in one stock Graff the other two in the bark , according to the second way of Graffing , forecasting one of them to be on the West-side of the stock . (LANGF-E3-P2,49_misnumbered_as_59.47) Sect. 6 . (LANGF-E3-P2,49_misnumbered_as_59.48) There is another way , called Graffing by Approach , Ablactation , or Enarching , which is by having a stock , or stocks grow so near another Tree , whose Fruit you would propagate , that the stock and the branch of that Tree may be joyned together in the manner following ; or else stocks raised in Pots , that may be placed near the Tree of whose kind you would propagate ; as is commonly used for Orange-Trees . (LANGF-E3-P2,49_misnumbered_as_59.49) Cut the side of the Branch and of the stock where they will meet about three inches in length , till you come near the pith of each , (LANGF-E3-P2,49_misnumbered_as_59.50) and fit them both together , that the passages of the sap may joyn , in which posture bind and clay them : (LANGF-E3-P2,49_misnumbered_as_59.51) Assoon as you find the Scion and Stock to be well cemented together , cut off the head of the Stock , about four inches above the binding ; (LANGF-E3-P2,50.52) and in March following , cut off the stub you left of the Stock , and also the Scion underneath , close to the Graffed place , that it may subsist by the Stock only . (LANGF-E3-P2,50.53) $It $'s {TEXT:It's} also used to be done by cutting off the head of the Stock at first , and sloping half off about two inches long , and joyning the Scion thereunto , being cut accordingly . (LANGF-E3-P2,50.54) See the figure . (LANGF-E3-P2,50.55) This manner of Graffing is unnecessary , and scarcely practicable in the Fruit-Trees , chiefly intended in this Book ; (LANGF-E3-P2,50.56) but for Oranges , Limons , Pomgranates , Vines , Jessamins , and such like shrubs it may be practis'd . (LANGF-E3-P2,50.57) Also $it $'s {TEXT:it's} said that Trees of different kinds will sooner take this way than otherwise . (LANGF-E3-P2,50.58) Among all these sorts of Graffing , the second way for Apples , and the first for all other Fruit-trees , are to be preferred before all the rest . (LANGF-E3-P2,50.59) The Figures with these directions , I hope will make all easie to any mans understanding . (LANGF-E3-P2,50.60) CHAP. VI . (LANGF-E3-P2,51.63) Observations concerning Graffing . (LANGF-E3-P2,51.64) Sect. 1 . (LANGF-E3-P2,51.66) If the Plants that you removed out of your Seed-plot into the Nursery , and such Stocks for Stone-fruit in the Seed-plot as you intend to Graff , be half an inch over in thickness , where they are to be Graffed , or little more , $it $'s {TEXT:it's} enough : (LANGF-E3-P2,51.67) $It $'s {TEXT:It's} best not to have them above an inch in the diameter , both that you may lose no time , and that the Stock may be easier covered by the Scion . (LANGF-E3-P2,51.68) Sect. 2 . (LANGF-E3-P2,51.69) In providing Scions or Graffs of Pears , Plums and Cherries you must observe to cut them in January , or at the very beginning of February , having respect to the forwardness or backwardness of the Spring , and the warmth or coldness of the Country you live in ; (LANGF-E3-P2,51.70) but you must be sure to cut them before the buds have any speck of white appear upon them . (LANGF-E3-P2,51.71) Scions for Apple-trees will seldom be too forward any time before the beginning of March . (LANGF-E3-P2,51.72) Choose strong and well grown Scions , that grow at the top or outside of a Tree that bears well , and good fruit of its kind , (LANGF-E3-P2,52.73) and cut not off the tops of the Scions till you Graff them , (LANGF-E3-P2,52.74) for so they will keep the better . (LANGF-E3-P2,52.75) I have always found a shoot or branch of the year next foregoing to thrive best ; (LANGF-E3-P2,52.76) and though in Graffing old Trees in Hereford-shire , some commend and use Scions of two or three years growth , yet those are seldom found to have convenient buds to put forth at , (LANGF-E3-P2,52.77) and often times have blossoming buds on them , (LANGF-E3-P2,52.78) and make not so good a growth , (LANGF-E3-P2,52.79) neither have they so good a joynt to Graff at , as those of the last year . (LANGF-E3-P2,52.80) When you get them , you had best cut off at least a hands breadth of that which grew the year before with them , besides the last years shoot ; (LANGF-E3-P2,52.81) for so they will keep the better , (LANGF-E3-P2,52.82) and you must use about an inch of that old wood in every Scion when you Graff it . (LANGF-E3-P2,52.83) Sect. 3 . (LANGF-E3-P2,52.84) In January or February , as you find the weather grow warm , the wind not being North , or North-East , you may Graff Plums , Cherries , and Pears , but not Apples till the bark of the Stocks will rise or peel from the wood , which is seldom before the middle of March , and often not till April , because this is necessary for the best way of Graffing them ; (LANGF-E3-P2,53.85) but if you will Graff any Apples in the cleft , you may do it a little sooner . (LANGF-E3-P2,53.86) Perhaps you may not have several sorts of Plums , Cherries or Pears , so near you as that you may get buds fresh enough for Inoculation . (LANGF-E3-P2,53.87) In this case you may procure Scions and Graff them , (LANGF-E3-P2,53.88) and they will continue fresh though you should send for them from beyond Sea . (LANGF-E3-P2,53.89) Sect. 4 . (LANGF-E3-P2,53.90) These Scions may be kept three weeks , or a month after they are cut , before they are used , (LANGF-E3-P2,53.91) and there ought to be a fortnight or three weeks betwixt the time of their being cut , and of their being Graffed , that the Stocks in that time may be more replenisht with sap , and the Scions be more empty of it . (LANGF-E3-P2,53.92) To keep your Scions or Graffs after they are cut , you need not , as some direct , bury them in moist mold , (LANGF-E3-P2,53.93) for this may be a means to make them swell and bud forth , by receiving moisture from the Earth ; (LANGF-E3-P2,53.94) and then when by Graffing they are exposed to the cold open Air , they will be in danger to wither and die before they have nourishment from the Stock . (LANGF-E3-P2,53.95) You may lay them in a dry house , so it be near no heat , or under an old Tree , or Hedge , and cover them all over with dry mold , that the Air may not have too much influence upon them : (LANGF-E3-P2,54.97) though they seem somewhat dry , yet if they cut with a fresh colour , and be not much withered , they will not grow the worse , but rather the better ; (LANGF-E3-P2,54.98) yea some that have seemed withered , being carried in a Cloak-bag seventy or eighty miles have grown well . (LANGF-E3-P2,54.99) Suffer not the buds to be hurt , or rub'd in the binding or carriage . (LANGF-E3-P2,54.100) Sect. 5 . (LANGF-E3-P2,54.101) There be some indifferent whether they Graff at a joynt or no , but forecast to have a bud directly behind the shoulder of the Scion : (LANGF-E3-P2,54.102) If Scions with joynts were scarce , you might practise so on small Stocks that will be speedily cover'd , (LANGF-E3-P2,54.103) but if Scions can be had with joints , never Graff with others , (LANGF-E3-P2,54.104) for these will cover the Stocks sooner . (LANGF-E3-P2,54.105) It will do well in Graffing Stocks for large Standards , to put but one Scion into a Stock , and if it put forth several shoots to cut off all but one , that is the straightest and strongest . (LANGF-E3-P2,54.106) But for Dwarfs and Wall-fruit put in two Scions , if the Stock be big enough . (LANGF-E3-P2,54.107) Let the latter be Graffed near the ground , the former at such height as the Stock will allow . (LANGF-E3-P2,55.108) Sect. 6 . (LANGF-E3-P2,55.109) In Graffing or Inoculating , it may be necessary to have some mark , to know what kind of Fruit is put upon each Stock ; (LANGF-E3-P2,55.110) if you Graff many of one kind , as $it $'s {TEXT:it's} necessary for Syder-Fruit you may observe to make every row to consist but-1 of one kind , and no other ; (LANGF-E3-P2,55.111) but in a Book , that such a row hath such a kind of Fruit in it , and $it $'s {TEXT:it's} but entring where there are several in one row , there may be a Stake knockt into the ground at the beginning of every new sort , and so entred in your Book ; (LANGF-E3-P2,55.112) and where you have very few of a kind or for your whole Nursery , if you please you may make marks of several figures or shapes , in the bark of the Stocks ; which marks enter into your Book , and what kind it denotes , (LANGF-E3-P2,55.113) and at two or three years when you remove it , the mark will be very visible ; (LANGF-E3-P2,55.114) and by renewing the marks sometimes , you may continue it as long as you please , (LANGF-E3-P2,55.115) and if any Tree be stolen you may own it by the mark . (LANGF-E3-P2,55.116) CHAP. VIII . (LANGF-E3-P2,56.119) Of Planting Wall-Fruit . (LANGF-E3-P2,56.120) Sect. 1 . (LANGF-E3-P2,56.122) Stone-fruit will be first ready to remove , (LANGF-E3-P2,56.123) for after two years growth in the Seed-plot or Nursery , after they are Inoculated , or Graffed , you may well remove them , be they for Wall or Dwarfs , which you ought to do in October or November ; early removing , being advantageous for all Fruit-Trees , both for the security of their growing , and for their well growing . (LANGF-E3-P2,56.124) Young Trees , having been taken up about November , and the ends of the roots cut off , and laid in the Earth till March to be Planted , being then taken forth again , it hath appeared that they have put out many fibrous roots , at the ends of those big roots that were cut off ; which had they done in the place they were to grow in the next Summer , this would have been a good preparation against Spring ; (LANGF-E3-P2,56.125) and $it $'s {TEXT:it's} always seen that Trees set in February or March , make generally a much less growth the next year , than those that were set before Winter . (LANGF-E3-P2,57.126) If a dry Summer happen to succeed , it often kills some of the late set Trees , (LANGF-E3-P2,57.127) and puts such a stop to others , that they recover not of many years . (LANGF-E3-P2,57.128) In sharp Frosts , though you could dig , $it $'s {TEXT:it's} not good to remove Trees . (LANGF-E3-P2,57.129) Yet if you have a few small Trees near hand to remove , you may make advantage of a small Frost , by removing them , in getting up the Earth whole about the roots of the Tree , (LANGF-E3-P2,57.130) and set it presently letting as little Earth fall from them as may be , whereby the Tree may be scarcely sensible of removing : (LANGF-E3-P2,57.131) And at all times if you have not far to carry the Trees to set them , knock not off the mold from the roots , (LANGF-E3-P2,57.132) but preserve as much as you can about them . (LANGF-E3-P2,57.133) Sect. 2 . (LANGF-E3-P2,57.134) Make a Trench by the Wall-side you are to set them up to , about two foot broad , and as deep , (LANGF-E3-P2,57.135) and in every place where a Tree is to be set , about a yard square , mingle good old rotten Neats-dung , with the Earth , (LANGF-E3-P2,57.136) and fill it up lightly , near as high as you intend the borders to be , (LANGF-E3-P2,57.137) and tread it down ; So that it be not above half full in the places you designed to set the trees , (LANGF-E3-P2,57.138) as to the borders make them up when you please . (LANGF-E3-P2,57.139) But if you design no borders , make then only a hole for each Tree , of the square before mentioned : (LANGF-E3-P2,58.141) And if your Soil be wet , or binding gravel , or such like , very bad in the bottom , go not so deep , (LANGF-E3-P2,58.142) it will be better to set them shallow , and raise the Earth about them . (LANGF-E3-P2,58.143) I knew an excellent Planter , that in a blewish clay ground , used at the bottom of the hole to set a broad stone , to prevent the Roots of the Trees in runing downward , (LANGF-E3-P2,58.144) and certainly where the Land is spungy or bad in the bottom , you $can $not {TEXT:cannot} set the Trees too shallow ; so that the Earth be deep enough above them to prevent the Sun's burning them the Summer . (LANGF-E3-P2,58.145) As to the distance Wall-fruit-trees are to be set at , where they are apt to grow , you may learn that best by considering their aptness to spread : (LANGF-E3-P2,58.146) Apricocks and Pears spread most , (LANGF-E3-P2,58.147) the May Cherry and some others are of very small growth : (LANGF-E3-P2,58.148) $it $'s {TEXT:it's} impossible to give rules for all , (LANGF-E3-P2,58.149) but the general distance is about four yards asunder . (LANGF-E3-P2,58.150) Sect. 3 . (LANGF-E3-P2,58.151) If it be not a manur'd Land you set them in , have in readiness some very fine rich Mold , or shovellings of a yard where Cattle are frequently lodged or fed , that hath lain on heaps till $it $'s {TEXT:it's} mellow , and become dry , or rotten Neats-dung , which you may mix with the Earth that came forth of the hole , (LANGF-E3-P2,59.152) and so order it , that it may be as good or better , than that out of which your Trees came : (LANGF-E3-P2,59.153) Fill the hole half way up with this , (LANGF-E3-P2,59.154) and tread it down in such form having respect to the roots of the Tree that is set in it that the roots may rest close upon it . (LANGF-E3-P2,59.155) Cut off the ends of all the roots , (LANGF-E3-P2,59.156) if it chance to have one long downright root , you may cut it almost half off , (LANGF-E3-P2,59.157) try by setting the Tree in the hole which side will stand best to the Wall , (LANGF-E3-P2,59.158) and then cut off such branches as grow directly toward , and fromward the Wall , leaving only the side branches , to be nail'd unto it , (LANGF-E3-P2,59.159) then clap your Tree in , placing it as far from the Wall as the top will allow , (LANGF-E3-P2,59.160) that must be spread upon it , that the roots may have the more liberty to spread backwards : (LANGF-E3-P2,59.161) fill up the hole with the mold , (LANGF-E3-P2,59.162) and use all diligence to place the roots of your Tree in the same posture they were in before you removed it . (LANGF-E3-P2,59.163) If the Tree be young , and the Roots slender , this can be performed no way but by throwing in a little soil at a time , and then raising up with your hands such Roots as are pressed down by it below their proper situation , spreading them on the soil you have cast in , and then throwing in more , and ordering the Roots as before , so continuing to do till you have filled up the hole . (LANGF-E3-P2,60.164) Old Trees with sturdy Roots do not require so much curiosity ; (LANGF-E3-P2,60.165) but you must be sure that the mold lie close under , betwixt , and among the Roots . (LANGF-E3-P2,60.166) If the Soil be light , you must press it down gently with your foot , (LANGF-E3-P2,60.167) when you have finished placing the Earth about them , you may if the Land be stiff , cold , wet , or barren cover the Earth with Dung , round about the Tree , (LANGF-E3-P2,60.168) but if the Land be good , or that you $can $not {TEXT:cannot} spare Dung , then in the end of February following cover the Earth with Fearn or Straw almost a foot thick , (LANGF-E3-P2,60.169) and this do then , rather than when you set the Tree that Earth may have more benefit of the Frost and Wet in the Winter to temper it . (LANGF-E3-P2,60.170) And some in setting Trees esteem it best to put no Dung into the holes , but the soil that came forth of it , both under and about the Roots , placing the smallest and best mold next them , laying a good quantity of Dung on the top of the Earth about them . (LANGF-E3-P2,61.171) Sect. 4 . (LANGF-E3-P2,61.172) Every year it will be necessary to prune and nail them to the Wall , twice , or thrice , according as they grow more or less ; wherein you must observe , to bend down the strongest shoots that would grow upward towards the sides , (LANGF-E3-P2,61.173) otherwise they will be apt to run straight upward , and not cover the space you design for them , (LANGF-E3-P2,61.174) and by their luxurious growth , will extreamly rob the side branches of their nourishment . (LANGF-E3-P2,61.175) There will branches enow spring out fresh to run upwards out of them when they are so bowed . (LANGF-E3-P2,61.176) Lay none a-cross or under one another , (LANGF-E3-P2,61.177) but let them spread as the fingers of your hand when it is expanded . (LANGF-E3-P2,61.178) Cut off such as grow directly outward close to the body ; (LANGF-E3-P2,61.179) if you cut a part of any branch off , do it at the bud , that the cut may be covered with a fresh sprig . (LANGF-E3-P2,61.180) The Winter pruning may be done as soon as the fruit , and leaves are fallen , or any time before February , except Nectarines , and Peaches , which are apt to die , if prun'd before the Sap raise . (LANGF-E3-P2,61.181) Mr. Rea saith , the best time to Prune them , is after they flower . (LANGF-E3-P2,61.182) Shreads of Wollen Cloth are the best things to Nail them up with ; (LANGF-E3-P2,62.184) some use gentle Leather , or an old Hat , (LANGF-E3-P2,62.185) any of these may serve turn . (LANGF-E3-P2,62.186) Sect. 5 . (LANGF-E3-P2,62.187) Sometime in the Winter , after two or three years , if the Soil the roots are to spread into , be not rich enough , open the ground at the outside of the holes you made at setting , as near round about , as the Wall will permit . (LANGF-E3-P2,62.188) If you find no roots bare , let it lye open a month , (LANGF-E3-P2,62.189) and then fill it up with the Earth that came forth , well mixt with such a manure as suits with it . (LANGF-E3-P2,62.190) Sect. 6 . (LANGF-E3-P2,62.191) Where the natural soil is not good enough of it self , whether it be in Garden , Orchard , or Field , there it ought to be by skill assisted , and better'd , at least-wise for such a compass as the roots of every Tree take up for some time , if not so far round as they are ever like to extend themselves . (LANGF-E3-P2,62.192) And this must be done by mixing such Manures with the Soil , as suit best with its temper . (LANGF-E3-P2,62.193) If the Soil be clay , or clay mixt with gravel , or wet heavy Land , hot Dung , as that of Horses , or Poultry , is best to mix with it , to bring it to a due temperament . (LANGF-E3-P2,62.194) And if the soil be a light , hollow , eskie , or sandy land , then Marl , Mud out of a Pond or River , or shovellings of dirty yards or high-ways , if they be not sandy , and be well mellowed , by lying on heaps , and especially if those heaps are mixed with Lime , are proper to mend it . (LANGF-E3-P2,63.196) If this last soil be barren likewise , you may properly add a mixture of Neats-dung . (LANGF-E3-P2,63.197) If your Land be too rich which is seldom seen you may mix Gravel or cold clay with it . (LANGF-E3-P2,63.198) I have seen an Apple-tree on a Hemp-but , which was constantly Plowed , and Manur'd to a great richness , bear more Apples than four such Trees in an Orchard would do . (LANGF-E3-P2,63.199) And $it $'s {TEXT:it's} constantly seen in barren hungry Land , Trees thrive poorly , grow Mossey , or Bark-bound , bearing very little , and that a very poor Fruit . (LANGF-E3-P2,63.200) Only Wallnut-trees and Pear-trees , do not necessarily require a very rich ground , (LANGF-E3-P2,63.201) and will prosper best on stony and light Land . (LANGF-E3-P2,63.202) Sect. 7 . (LANGF-E3-P2,63.203) When your Wall-trees are grown old , and full of big Wood , you may in three or four years time renew them , by cutting out some of the biggest stems , or boughs , yearly ; cutting each branch off at some small twig , if it may be that either it , or a fresh branch $may {TEXT:my} grow over the cut place ; which must be kept covered with Clay ; (LANGF-E3-P2,64.204) and so go on yearly , till all the big wood is cut out . (LANGF-E3-P2,64.205) Or if you dislike the kind of Fruit , you may Inoculate , or Graff the boughs with a better sort of Fruit , but not all in one year , but some one , and some another . (LANGF-E3-P2,64.206) By either of these ways , you may renew a decaying Tree , and keep your Wall almost still furnished , with less trouble and charge , or loss of time than by taking up the old one , and planting a young one in its stead . (LANGF-E3-P2,64.207) If the Tree be so old , that you resolve to take it up , and plant another in its place , if you have none ready , nor are willing to buy , the speediest way to be supplyed , you may find directed in Chapter the first , Section the Ninth . (LANGF-E3-P2,64.208) Sect. 8 . (LANGF-E3-P2,64.209) IN furnishing your Walls with Fruit-trees , observe always to Plant Peaches and Nectarines up to the Wall that is most South-ward ; (LANGF-E3-P2,64.210) the East-Wall is to be allotted to Apricocks , early Cherries , and the choicest Plums ; (LANGF-E3-P2,64.211) the West may be set with Pears , Cherries , and Plums . (LANGF-E3-P2,64.212) Some of the coursest Pears and Plums , you may set to the North-Wall , both to cover the Wall handsomely , (LANGF-E3-P2,65.214) and many years they will bear as well on it , as on standards ; especially if your wall stand not directly North , but so as to have some considerable benefit of the Sun ; (LANGF-E3-P2,65.215) Nut-trees likewise are proper for this wall , (LANGF-E3-P2,65.216) and will prosper well up to it . (LANGF-E3-P2,65.217) For those Autumnal and winter Pears , that ripen late , the most South and highest wall , doth improve them , (LANGF-E3-P2,65.218) and they deserve it , (LANGF-E3-P2,65.219) neither will some come to maturity in our Climate some years without such a wall . (LANGF-E3-P2,65.220) I would willingly bestow the best place I had upon one Winter-Boncreisten , two Buryes or Butter Pears , two Virgulees , and two Chasseryes , a St. Germans , St. Michael , the Crasson , the Bon-Gerson . (LANGF-E3-P2,65.221) If your conveniencies will allow it , and you are to build a new Wall , it is much better to have your Garden walls not to stand directly towards the four points , than otherwise , (LANGF-E3-P2,65.222) and then the worst wall will be much better , and the best good enough for your purpose . (LANGF-E3-P2,65.223) As thus , the East-wall , to incline to the South ; the South , to the West ; the west , to the North ; the North to the East ; (LANGF-E3-P2,66.225) or contrary , but not so well . (LANGF-E3-P2,66.226) In the first way the two first walls will be extraordinary good , and the two latter good enough for ordinary Fruit . (LANGF-E3-P2,66.227) Sect. 9 . (LANGF-E3-P2,66.228) In building a new Wall , it would be very advantageous , to make it with half rounds , each semi-circle being eight yards round in the inside , and about six yards in the face or diameter , each taking two Trees ; (LANGF-E3-P2,66.229) and betwixt every half round , let there be two foot breadth of plain walling , where you may place a Flower-pot on a pillar two foot high , or Plant a Vine to run up it , which every Summer , you may let spread it self a little into the half rounds on each side it . (LANGF-E3-P2,66.230) I know an honourable Gentleman , in somewhat a cold Country , that hath his Garden walls so made , (LANGF-E3-P2,66.231) and his Trees bear Fruit plentifully in such years as his neighbours generally fail . (LANGF-E3-P2,66.232) I also saw a wall made thus for raising Melons under , by a pattern or directions from Italy . (LANGF-E3-P2,66.233) I have also seen Grapes ripen delicately on every side the cluster , that grew in a half round . (LANGF-E3-P2,67.235) By means of these rounds , every wall will one time of the day or other , have a share of the Sun , (LANGF-E3-P2,67.236) and the best walls by reason of such a reflection , and collection of the Sun-beams as will be in every round will be exceeding hot , (LANGF-E3-P2,67.237) and the Trees be more secure from winds . (LANGF-E3-P2,67.238) Having said thus much here of the Wall that Fruit trees are to be set up to , thus much more may not improperly be here added . That a Pale is as good for this purpose , and in respect of ripening Fruit better than any thing else it can be raised up to , if the Pale be made of sawed boards , nine or ten foot high , and exactly joined , that no wind may come through : (LANGF-E3-P2,67.239) Next to this in goodness is a Brick-wall , and then a Stone-wall , and the worst of all that which is made of Timber and Mortar ; (LANGF-E3-P2,67.240) but in this every one $can $not {TEXT:cannot} be his own chooser , (LANGF-E3-P2,67.241) but must comply with what the Country he lives in will permit him to do for his best convenience . (LANGF-E3-P2,67.242) When you plant your Garden with Fruit trees , you may do well to draw the Platform of it in Paper , and so set down the name of every Tree , according to the place it stands in , whether in Wall-fruit or Dwarf-trees , (LANGF-E3-P2,68.243) the same course you may use about your Orchard , (LANGF-E3-P2,68.244) and you will find it both satisfactory and useful , that you may readily at any season of the year , know what kind of Fruit every Tree beareth : (LANGF-E3-P2,68.245) The Fruit planted in Fields , not being of so much variety , may be easily distinguished without this help . (LANGF-E3-P2,68.246) CHAP. XI . (LANGF-E3-P2,68.248) Concerning Dwarf-Trees . (LANGF-E3-P2,68.249) Sect. 1 . (LANGF-E3-P2,68.251) These Trees have been of late much affected and coveted , because they are of special advantage for Table-fruit , whether Pears , Apples , Plums {COM:sic} or Cherries being but of low Stature , (LANGF-E3-P2,68.252) and may be planted in the borders of Garden-walks , without doing any thing else there about them any prejudice , by overshadowing them ; (LANGF-E3-P2,68.253) and their fruit will be as well secured , and commodious for gathering as the Wall-fruit . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.254) Sect. 2 . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.255) Plants for this purpose must be provided , and prepared somewhat differently from those for Orchards , or Fields . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.256) The Quince-tree is generally used , and best for Stocks for Pears , both for Dwarfs and Wall ; as well because it may possibly somewhat meliorate the Pear as and that chiefly because it groweth not to that bigness , as on a Pear-stock it would be apt to do . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.257) Sect. 3 . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.258) For Dwarf-Apple-trees the best Stocks are such as are raised of the cuttings of other Apple-trees , as of the Gennet-moil , the Kentish-Codling and others . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.259) That these are more proper for Dwarf-trees , than Crab-stocks , appears ; 1. Because the Fruit will be rather better'd , and not tainted with any asperity , or roughnesse , as possibly it might be , if Crab tree-stocks were made use of ; (LANGF-E3-P2,69.260) and one chief design in these Trees is to have choice and delicious Fruit for eating . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.261) 2 . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.262) Apple-trees that are raised on such Stocks , will not grow so big as those on Crab-stocks , (LANGF-E3-P2,69.263) but are with ease and certainty kept Dwarfs . (LANGF-E3-P2,69.264) Mr. Rea judging the Paradise-Apple of somewhat slow growth in bringing forward a Scion , advises to graff a Paradise on a Crab-stock , and the Fruit you would have , on that Paradise , that the Crab might yield plenty of juice or sap to the Paradise , and the Paradise retard the growth of the Apple planted on it , so as to keep it a Dwarf ; (LANGF-E3-P2,70.265) but besides loss of time , I doubt the success of this , because the Crab will put forth strong Root ; and yield plenty of nourishment : (LANGF-E3-P2,70.266) For why Apple-trees raised by cuttings grow not to be very large Trees , I take to be , their putting forth such small Roots , by which means the Tree hath sap conveyed to it accordingly . (LANGF-E3-P2,70.267) 3 . (LANGF-E3-P2,70.268) By using these cuttings for Stocks , you shall get at least four years time , reckoning from sowing the Crab-kernel , and the setting the Stem or Cutting , being duly ordered ; As , 1. By setting the Stem in the place you intend the Dwarf-tree shal grow . 2. And setting it in good Earth , (LANGF-E3-P2,70.269) for then after one years growth you may Graff it , (LANGF-E3-P2,70.270) and you will easily discern the advantage in point of time . (LANGF-E3-P2,70.271) If it be said Crab-stocks ready grown may be made use of instead of cuttings ; $there $'s {TEXT:there's} this Answer ready , They must grow two if not three years after they are set before they are fit to graff , and in respect of their large growth will not be fit for Dwarfs . (LANGF-E3-P2,71.273) Some Nursery Men have made advantage to themselves by this speedy way of raising Trees by Cuttings , (LANGF-E3-P2,71.274) but to the disadvantage of them they put them off for planting in Orchards , because they are never like to make large , or long lasting Trees . (LANGF-E3-P2,71.275) Sect. 4 . (LANGF-E3-P2,71.276) The way then to provide these Stocks is thus : (LANGF-E3-P2,71.277) In October from such Trees whose cuttings will grow , take such stems , or branches that grow straightest , and which in the place where they shall be graffed are an inch or more thick , (LANGF-E3-P2,71.278) if they be near two inches $it $'s {TEXT:it's} so much the better ; (LANGF-E3-P2,71.279) cut them off , if you can , a hands breadth below such knots or burrs as are on them , (LANGF-E3-P2,71.280) for at those burs they principally put forth their Roots {COM:no_matching_open_paren} (LANGF-E3-P2,71.281) and cut off the top , that they be not above a yard long , (LANGF-E3-P2,71.282) if you $can $not {TEXT:cannot} get them so long of Quinces {COM:no_matching_open_paren} you must be content with shorter , (LANGF-E3-P2,71.283) if they be two foot it may do reasonably well {COM:no_matching_close_paren} : (LANGF-E3-P2,72.284) Cut off also all side branches close to the body , except one small twigg near the top , for the Sap to vent it self at , (LANGF-E3-P2,72.285) set these presently in beds as your Seed-plants were , (LANGF-E3-P2,72.286) or rather if your Garden be laid out that you can know the places they shall stand in set them there . (LANGF-E3-P2,72.287) You need not fear setting these as deep , as the length will bear , so that there be about a foot above ground , because they will shoot out roots all along , almost to the top of the ground , and to spread their roots in the good Soil ; (LANGF-E3-P2,72.288) and by setting them something deep they are in less danger of dying , (LANGF-E3-P2,72.289) and this prevents the trouble of covering the ground about them with Fearn or Straw ; (LANGF-E3-P2,72.290) and by this means likewise they will stand the firmer in the loose Garden-land , for graffing at a years end , and better support a spreading top afterwards . (LANGF-E3-P2,72.291) Sect. 5 . (LANGF-E3-P2,72.292) But because $it $'s {TEXT:it's} hard to meet with great plenty of such branches , thus to be cut , and set for stocks , that have burrs or knots upon them ; Planters have therefore found out a way which is called Circumposition to bring these knots or burrs upon Branches , that had them not before , and to mend and improve those that before had them , (LANGF-E3-P2,72.293) and the way of it is as followeth . (LANGF-E3-P2,72.294) About the beginning of February next before you design to cut these stems , directly above the place you intend to cut them off at , for about a foot in length , fasten about them some Earth in an old Hat , or Boot , or Bag , made of some strong Cloth : (LANGF-E3-P2,73.296) And in that Earth they will have put forth Roots against the October following , when you are to cut them off to set them . (LANGF-E3-P2,73.297) Or which is a quicker and readier way you may dawb some wet Earth or Clay about the place , and wrap a Hay-band about it , putting some moist Earth likewise betwixt the rounds of the band , and then running it about again over the spaces betwixt those first rounds of the Hay-band and making fast the ends of it . (LANGF-E3-P2,73.298) If the stem have no burr before you go either of these ways to work , (LANGF-E3-P2,73.299) then first take off here and there a little slice of Bark about an inch long round about it near the middle of the place to be covered as hath been directed . (LANGF-E3-P2,73.300) Some direct , That before this application of the Earth , about an inch breadth of the Bark be taken off , round about the part of the branch , that is to be surrounded with the Earth , that roots may shoot out in greater quantity , by coming out in the upper skirts of that circle , as well as in the lower ; (LANGF-E3-P2,74.301) but this is but a Crotchet , and grounded as my Lord Bacon hath truly observed upon the opinion of the Descension of the Sap ; whereas indeed there is no such thing , (LANGF-E3-P2,74.302) for the whole mass of Sap is always ascending ; in lesser quantity in the Winter , because the Tree is then only to be nourished , and kept alive , to which end a small supply is sufficient , and yet necessary ; and in greater plenty than {COM:sic} the Summer , to furnish the Tree with leaves , fruit , and new yearly growth . (LANGF-E3-P2,74.303) And the true reason why the leaves and fruit fall off towards Winter is , not because the sap returns downward from them , but because they have arrived to their full ripeness , and the Tree fails by degrees , to convey up so much Sap as it did in the Summer to them , to produce fresh ones ; (LANGF-E3-P2,74.304) and therefore consequently $that $'s {TEXT:that's} an idle mistake too , to think that the sap or juice in the Winter , is laid up in the Roots as a repository , as appears plainly , inasmuch as they are ever found dryer in the Winter than in the Summer . So that upon the whole , this taking the Bark off round the branch , is good for nothing , but to endanger it , by intercepting the juice or sap , which rises in greatest quantity betwixt the bark and the wood ; (LANGF-E3-P2,75.305) but if , as before was hinted , you take some little slices of the bark off round the branch , here and there , leaving the Bark intire in some places , this may , by checking the Sap , cause it the more abundantly to pass into Roots . (LANGF-E3-P2,75.306) But to proceed to the business in hand , you have seen the way of preparing cuttings by circumposition , (LANGF-E3-P2,75.307) and though some will pretend to raise Trees of any kind by the use of it , yet $it $'s {TEXT:it's} certain it avails not , but only in such as by a peculiar property are apt to put forth Roots , being cut off and set into the ground ; (LANGF-E3-P2,75.308) and , those generally known , and made use of this way , are the Kentish-Codling , the Gennet-moil , some sorts of Sweet-Apples , and Bitter-sweets , the Quince-tree , the Mulberry-tree , and the Paradise-Apple-tree ; which last is much commended by the skilful Mr. Rea , for to raise Stocks for Dwarf-Apple-trees . (LANGF-E3-P2,75.309) Sect. 6 . (LANGF-E3-P2,75.310) Another way to raise Stocks for Dwarf trees , is to cut down some one Tree of little worth , of such a kind as you want Stocks of about a foot , or more from the ground : (LANGF-E3-P2,75.311) This will make some kind of Trees very apt to cast forth very good Suckers from the old Roots ; (LANGF-E3-P2,76.312) such as are two years growth may be transplanted , or inoculated where they stand before removal ; (LANGF-E3-P2,76.313) and the Stump above ground , will also put forth abundance of young Shoots . (LANGF-E3-P2,76.314) After these young shoots have grown out of the stump one year , cast Mold , or Earth about them , a good height ; so that you cover not the tops of any of them ; where let them grow two years more , (LANGF-E3-P2,76.315) and they will be well rooted , (LANGF-E3-P2,76.316) then cut them off from the old Stock , which after that may yield fresh ones again (LANGF-E3-P2,76.317) and set the shoots you take off as before hath been directed about Cuttings . (LANGF-E3-P2,76.318) These will be about three years longer before they be ready to graff than Cuttings , (LANGF-E3-P2,76.319) but will be very good young fresh Stocks , (LANGF-E3-P2,76.320) and is a good way to raise Stocks of the Quince-tree for Pears ; because Quince-trees generally grow so crooked and irregular , that $it $'s {TEXT:it's} difficult to procure any considerable quantity of them by Cuttings . (LANGF-E3-P2,76.321) You may gain time in raising Trees this way if you inoculate these young suckers or shoots where they stand , as soon as they are big enough , and let them continue there to make one years growth ; by which time they will be well rooted , and ready to remove . (LANGF-E3-P2,77.322) If they shoot up tall after they are molded , you had best top them at a convenient height , (LANGF-E3-P2,77.323) it will make them grow the more in bigness , and so be sooner fit to graff . (LANGF-E3-P2,77.324) But if you have a desire to have any of the same kind as the old Tree was , you need not top them . (LANGF-E3-P2,77.325) And by this means if you want Quince-trees , Codlings , &c. you may be furnished with plenty , that will make better and handsomer Trees than if you raise them by Cuttings . (LANGF-E3-P2,77.326)